The wet shaving thread


blr_p

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Maybe I am doing something wrong. You guys do long deep swipes? Or shorter multiple swipes. For or against the grain?
I'm starting to rethink what you said here about long vs short passes. Since i don't do long i can only speak about short. Mantic's metaphor is think of the face as a diamond then work on the facets one at a time. More effort but also easier to do a through job.

But long is more efficient. If you consider in terms of time and effort. One long swipe covers more area so you don't have to go over it again until the next pass. Also get away with one less pass as with the grain and across the grain passes are combined in a J shaped pass.

So we're clear long for me means start from about ear level and go right down to bottom of throat in one continuous swipe. By short i stop at the end of the jaw line. Passes are straight and don't curve. People do J shaped passes but i do not. I tend to work on smaller areas rather than the longer swipes. Angle changes less with shorter passes than a longer one. Longer is harder to pull off and requires more skill as contour as well as angle is constantly changing. Like going down a winding road with many bends.

It's conceivable you need a sharper blade for a longer continuous swipe than a short one. If you were going over grain that grows in a different direction say. It would not have been gone over before so will put up more resistance that only a sharper blade could handle. I expect you notice the resistance more in the first pass than subsequent ones.

I guess i've adapted to shorter passes as they're safer albeit more effort is required. It's been a long time since i used a cartridge razor with a pivoting blade.
 
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i_rock098

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The idea is beard reduction, multiple short passes. I don't think long or short makes a difference.

What is your prep like. I only shave after a bath.

Do you get more with any other blades ?
I don't have much of a prep to be honest. I just wet my face and start applying shaving cream and then immediately start shaving. Since I need to shave every alternative day i dont really have much time to do anything else.

Actual the other blades last similarly so I thought since these are much more expensive blades they should ideally last much longer.

I do multiple short passes.

My basic prep is wet beard -- work up a lather with cream/soap in circular motion, eventually painting over the face -- wait for 7-10 minutes
Above the jawline, I do 3 passes - up to down (with the grain), lateral to medial and down to up (against the grain)
On the jawline - same as above + a medial to lateral pass too as the hair is coarser
Below the jawline - same as on the jawline + extra short passes on specific areas which have stubborn hair

With feather blades, I had to add an extra pre-shave prep - application of moisturizer (any) before lathering up. Don't need it for Astra SP.

Edit: Also make sure your angle is correct. One of the major benefits I see with Parker 68S is due to it's open comb design, it lets lather pass through. Hence if my angle is not correct, I see impressions of the razor comb on my face (instead of a smooth disappearance of lather), and immediately correct my angle and re-shave that area.
That's quite a detailed description, thank you so much for it. Let me try the same method to see how well it works for me. Since I am still new to the wet shaving world I am experimenting with a lot of different techniques and blades before deciding what sticks.

Also since you do multiple passes don't you get razor burns? I end to get razor burns even if I do just 2 swipe shave.

I'm starting to rethink what you said here about long vs short passes. Since i don't do long i can only speak about short. Mantic's metaphor is think of the face as a diamond then work on the facets one at a time. More effort but also easier to do a through job.

But long is more efficient. If you consider in terms of time and effort. One long swipe covers more area so you don't have to go over it again until the next pass. Also get away with one less pass as with the grain and across the grain passes are combined in a J shaped pass.

So we're clear long for me means start from about ear level and go right down to bottom of throat in one continuous swipe. By short i stop at the end of the jaw line. Passes are straight and don't curve. People do J shaped passes but i do not. I tend to work on smaller areas rather than the longer swipes. Angle changes less with shorter passes than a longer one. Longer is harder to pull off and requires more skill as contour as well as angle is constantly changing. Like going down a winding road with many bends.

It's conceivable you need a sharper blade for a longer continuous swipe than a short one. If you were going over grain that grows in a different direction say. It would not have been gone over before so will put up more resistance that only a sharper blade could handle. I expect you notice the resistance more in the first pass than subsequent ones.

I guess i've adapted to shorter passes as they're safer albeit more effort is required. It's been a long time since i used a cartridge razor with a pivoting blade.
I agree with you, you need a much sharper blade for doing long strokes, blades like supermax, 7oclock green etc which are very blunt just do not work out well for long swipes and need multiple shorter swipes. Infact even Astra like I said in my previous post needed me to do multiple strokes from the 3rd shave onwards and it wasn't as smooth as I had expected. That's why I originally asked how long did the blade last.

Infact it even cut me quite in that 3rd 4th shave. Will take up some tips from these posts and see how it affects my shave.
 

alekhkhanna

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Also since you do multiple passes don't you get razor burns? I end to get razor burns even if I do just 2 swipe shave.
With feather blades, yes (only lower neck though). With Astra SP, no. Very happy with this combo. Butter smooth.

Don't go over the same area twice immediately. Say you did your face above the jawline, lather it up again, but shave either the jawline or below the jawline. Now lather the just shaved area for the 2nd pass and go back to the upper face. This makes sure you're giving enough time for the skin to hydrate and hairs to become soft again.
 

blr_p

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I don't have much of a prep to be honest. I just wet my face and start applying shaving cream and then immediately start shaving. Since I need to shave every alternative day i dont really have much time to do anything else.
That's not a proper prep. If you cannot shower, then wet a towel and have it over your beard for at least three minutes. Helps if its warm. Zap it in the microwave for half a minute. This is faster than the shaving cream for ten minutes. Another alternative is face lather. Work up a foam on your face for a good minute and then let it rest for a few minutes. You would need a good brush & cream for this. I prefer to whip the cream in a bowl as i can get it thicker this way with less effort and just shower before hand.

Beard that isn't sufficiently wet can be quite tough to shave through, will blunt blades sooner, requiring additional passes causing razor burn. I suggest you get an alum stone and wipe over after you finish shaving. This will test if everything went right. Ideally you should feel nothing.

If it stings then something some where in your routine is wrong. Use an after shave balm to heal faster.
 
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asingh

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^^
True, the alum stone immediately gives feedback on what went wrong--and how wrong! Also works great like an aftershave.