Water purifier (non ro) with cheap maintenance?

rdst_1 said:
Get a covered stainless steel container/bucket and put it in the bathroom as you have proposed. Sure it will take a few minutes of your time daily, but this method is the least complicated and that is important too. You can also use a float switch in that bucket so that the purifier unit switches on and off automatically.
I use my UV filter the same way as I couldn't find a point to install it in my kitchen. I now use it manually whenever the water in my covered container finishes. It is a big 500LPH unit and although I could have mounted it over the dishwasher I chose not too as it was getting complicated.

Also, just wanted to share a picture of my bag filter that does 99% of the work in my sediment blocking setup of my borewell water. We used to get this very fine silt in our water which you can see all caked up on the inside of the bag filter. The blown filter hardly gets to do any work and hence has not been changed for the last whole year and will last a couple more years.
This bag filter I use can be cleaned and reused. I use it in rotation with another bag filter that I had bought as a spare.

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what the actual fcuk
 
6pack said:
What other way is there to have enough pressure so that this filter works? Line boosting pump besides being bulkier, heavier and costlier and overkill for a purifier will also fail someday and it will cost a lot to repair it.
If I cannot use pump, then the only way I see I can use this is to put in in the bathroom where it will be connected to the building overhead tank and can only be used when there is water. Loft tanks inside dont have much pressure in them. Maybe I'll fit it to main pipe and fill up a 40 liter bucket with purified water and store that.
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I would do what rdst told, use a large stainless steel container or a new bucket of 15L to 20L and attach a float valve to a large plastic food plate which would act as the lid of the stainless container and easier to make a hole for a float valve. or You can use RO pump and use a NF membrane, this membrane porus size is between UF and RO and like RO you get constant waste water but as with any RO pump it will need replacing every 3 to 4 years.

If you use a float switch then you will need a solonoid valve and a Dc power supply, but if you use a float valve you don't need either.
 
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Saw this interesting video. Seems UF membrane needs enough pressure for water to pass properly.

The guy is using a cooler pump in left tin to push water to the UF membrane but it's not passing water. Only after he puts an RO booster pump did water flow out of the UF membrane.


Guess that leaves me no option other than to attach the purifier to overhead water line. If I want it in kitchen then I'll have to use a RO booster pump.

Can the RO booster pump be attached before the carbon block pre filter?
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Decided to not use any pump at all now. For some reason, the flow of water coming out increased after letting the purifier tap on for hours. It still takes an hour to fill a bucket from loft tank. I think I'll just buy a float valve and attach it to the storage vessel with double sided tape. Just let the water drip continuously and not care too much of the speed of water. All I want is purified water, and I could easily take it from the storage container at will.
 
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RO pump needs to installed just before the UF membrane. But you will have to do a bypass of most of the water via the flush valve, to keep the UF from being damaged from the high pressure. Again the RO pump has a life of 3 to 4 years for the best brands and cheaps ones last as low as 1 to 2 years and it defeats the purpose of UF membrane.
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6pack said:
Decided to not use any pump at all now. For some reason, the flow of water coming out increased after letting the purifier tap on for hours. It still takes an hour to fill a bucket from loft tank. I think I'll just buy a float valve and attach it to the storage vessel with double sided tape. Just let the water drip continuously and not care too much of the speed of water. All I want is purified water, and I could easily take it from the storage container at will.
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I think what was happening was after you connected it to tap and let it run for hours, the water would have finally filled the interiors of all the filters and pushed the air out, so now you are getting water. Double side tape will not hold the float valve the buoyancy is so much that it will fail instantly and water and tape don't go well. You need to get a lid like a plastic plate large enough to cover the vessel or a vessel that already has a lid. You will then need to make a hole in the lid or plastic plate and fasten it with the supplied nut.
 
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How long does it take for the filters to get clean normally? I was checking the quality of output water and saw some very fine suspended particles. It's probably from the coconut filter I guess. Water taste is a bit weird though. Can't describe it. No smell from water.
 
The pre and post carbon filters have black charcol particles. Normally since I built mine from scratch I flushed it by using pure water and an air compressor or a blower. Once the filter is filled with water, I then use the high speed pressure air to push out the water inside from inlet port to outlet port or vice versa, along with the fine particles, I then again fill the filter with water and repeat the step until I get no particles. Minimum of 8 times to get clear water.
You can even use a spare 1/4inch pipe and blow using your mouth, instead of using a air compressor or blower, next day your mouth will hurt. In my ro water purifier I connected the Ro pump to flush the particles but still not as good as doing it with air and water combo.

Some water purifer manuals say just to run the purifier for 2 hrs to flush them, with the output tap open. But as I found out with my cousins water purifier, the black particles settled inside the purifier tank and repeating my air and water method brought out more black particles.

Water tase will vary only if you use Ro, UF membrane has no effect on taste, meaning the taste will be the same as incoming water, albiet with chlorine and dirt taste being filtered out. Its mostly the carbon filters thats causing a taste difference, a good flush like my method will do the trick.
 
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Just to post an update. The purifier is working quite well. No suspended particles, bad water taste or anything now. Quite happy with the purchase. All those problems i had are probably my inexperience with this subject.
I flushed the uf membrane once or twice till now for just 30 seconds.

Is there a need to add a flow restrictor on the flush path to this? Flow restrictor is used only for ro membrane right?
 
6pack said:
Just to post an update. The purifier is working quite well. No suspended particles, bad water taste or anything now. Quite happy with the purchase. All those problems i had are probably my inexperience with this subject.
I flushed the uf membrane once or twice till now for just 30 seconds.

Is there a need to add a flow restrictor on the flush path to this? Flow restrictor is used only for ro membrane right?
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Flow restrictor is required when membrane has continuous flow of reject water, which is not the case with UF membrane. Technically speaking, you have 100% flow restrictor installed currently.
 
Update: I got two pre filters from Amazon thinking that by now the pre filter I installed in Feb would be chocolate brown in colour. I opened it up to see the filter was just light brown. The inside was as white when installed it. Even the water surrounding the filter was clean. Just some very little mud on inside of the container. Checked the carbon filter and it was like new. Mud inside the container was close to none.

So looks like I can run the filter for another two three months before changing it.
 
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