How to clean the inside of a washing machine and keep it that way

I have a whirlpool 6.5 kg top loading machine.
How old is the machine ? Can you post the user manual. I want to know if the word chlorine or bleach is in there.
The water setting is kept at "high" level (there are five level very low, low, medium, high, very high) and water temperature is "hot" (there are three levels warm/hot/very hot).
What was the water temperature you used ?
The machine takes 1.5 hours to complete the entire cycle.

The water level is just a few inches away from the tub. And the cycle is also quite vigorous.
The advantage of a top loader is water contacts over 90% of the tub volume so you want the water higher than the machine provides for a throrough clean

You want the water level touching the gasket not few inches lower. To do that requires you to manually fill water to the top or close to it.

Don't use the tub clean cyle. We will make our own. We will use a normal cycle. It only needs to run 10-15 minutes to stir things around then stop it.

Can that be done with water touching the gasket and an agitate without flooding your room ?

Then the soak begins.

Here it can go two ways as I don't know which way is better in terms of dislodging the most debris but the first is less work.

1) Let it soak for 12 hours, two rinses and a spin.

OR

2) Let it soak for an hour, fish out whatever debris comes using a sieve, turn it on for ten minutes, stop,

3) Repeat step 2) three times . The idea is to see whether the debris coming out reduces.

So total time taken to complete is 0:10 agitate + 1h soak + fish + 0:10 agitate + 1h soak + fish + 0:10 agitate + 1h soak + fish + 0:10 agitate + 1h soak + fish = 4h40m

4) Two rinses and a spin.

Different strategies.

No product instructions will tell you this because you will not buy their product thinking so much work. Instead they try to sell you easy fix which does not do much if anything for cleaning.

I had used about 75g of the Vanish powder. Or about 1.5 scoop provided in the packet.
Not enough for a top loader full of water. Needs to be 200gm minimum possibly twice as much if the volume is 60L. But 200gm is a good place to start.

Depends how much comes out and whether it reduces or not. Otherwise you have to do it again with another 200gm until it does reduce.

Vanish is a diluted product. 25-50% percarbonate. Ideally you would be using the labogens which for the same weight delivers 2 - 4x the punch.

Only mentioned Vanish to get people started due to easy availability.
You idea was great for including the towels during cleaning cycle. It actually REDUCES the water splash in top loading machine.
You want to increase the splash as much as possible not reduce it. More splash means hits more areas with product where the buildup is.

That is the intent in the front loader, seeems it has the opposite effect in a top loader.
To the make the process better i intentionally paused the machine for 30 mins (although it causes the machine to emit beep every 30 seconds or so. Like a UPS which is hell irritating). So that the dirt and other Grimes can have enough time to soak.
If you switch it off then no beep.

The best way to clean a top loader is to dissasemble it and scrub the parts clean. If you can't do that or don't want to pay some one else to do it then you have to do the above.
Will share the pictures of the inside of tub later today. The water is quite hard in my area. So will have to use descaler too later.
You could alternate each month.

Descaling indirectly helps by reducing scale which would otherwise attract other residues. We are only going after the residue here.

No chance of attaching a water softener ? the ones that you recharge with salt. Will be easier on the machine and require less detergent in regular washing.

Depends how hard your water is. If its over 500ppm CaCO3 then a softener is better.
 
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The machine that i am using 5-6 years old.

Unlike the front loading machines temperature feature is not available in my machine. So used the HOT WATER mode. Will share the picture to make it more clear.

We can use "the store water mode" to soak the machine for 12 hours or more. I didn't see any visible debris in the machine itself. So seive would be useless here. Most of it was water soluble junk. So a longer period of soaking will offer good performance.

And actually the water level was so close to the brim that i was afraid that it will splash out of the drum and get inside the machine. I don't think thats a good idea. Is it ? That was the idea behind using towels in the cycle. To reduce the water splashing. Otherwise the rinse cycle being quite vigorous, i am pretty certain that that water would have splashed all the way here and there and out of the tub.

I am not sure about the quantity of vanish. 200 grams seems too high. But you are a better judge for this.
 
just changed the body as it was rusting .. so wwant to start using machine with clean tab..
How old is your machine ?

Why don't you enquire into how much it would cost to manually clean. Top loader dissembly isn't difficult with the right tools, then take the basket out, scrub it, clean the tub, clean other areas, reassemble.

Fastest way to get the job done and will be 100%

If you do go that way post photos of before and after.

Chemical treatments are laborious and its questionable how much difference they make as you can't see the inside with machines over five years that have not been maintained.
 
Update:

The front control panel of my washing machine is as below.

As there is no temperature control button, so I thought that I will use the "HOT" water mode. Strangely it never goes to "Very Hot " mode anyway in any of the manual modes.

Water level selected was "High". This leaves around 6.5 CM of from the lower edge. Check pics. Using "Very high" mode simply adds a tiny bit more water leaving just 3 cm from the edge. So there is practically no difference.

Hard water causes severe deposition on the walls of the machine. The pictures explain a lot. The apparent scratches / discoloration patches that you see are simply hard water deposits on the wall. The actual stainless steel body is actually fine.

This time around i used 100 grams of Vanish or about 2 full scoops. There is significant foam as it can be seen from the picture. I will also check for proper chemical instead of using Vanish.

I am also including video of the machine using "Heavy" Mode. The water that came out today was fairly clean. Today it was the third day of cleaning cycle. I think i still need to do 2 more cycles for the water to come out clean.

To end the post here is a disgusting pic of the gunk that came out of the machine.
How old is your machine ?

Why don't you enquire into how much it would cost to manually clean. Top loader dissembly isn't difficult with the right tools, then take the basket out, scrub it, clean the tub, clean other areas, reassemble.
I am a bit skeptical about disassembling a washing machine. I can easily do Consoles, controllers, Phones, Computer etc ,and heck even some parts of the Car.
But somehow I am shit scared of messing something up in WM.
 
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Our LG top loader (older model) has a 2 hour cycle specifically for tub cleaning. We got 4 packs of cleaning solution from the company that we throw into the tub and let the cycle run. In addition to that you can remove the filter and empty it out, and the water inlet at the back can also be removed to clean debris or build-up. Seems to be working well so far.
 
How old is your machine ?
about 7-9 yrs old
Why don't you enquire into how much it would cost to manually clean. Top loader dissembly isn't difficult with the right tools, then take the basket out, scrub it, clean the tub, clean other areas, reassemble.
i meant the body is changed by local repairmen..
Chemical treatments are laborious and its questionable how much difference they make as you can't see the inside with machines over five years that have not been maintained.
the hanging tub does looked clean when they opened it.. i just want to clean inside of tub..

for now, will try the vanish powder thing..
 
I ran the Tub clean (1hrs 35mins) yesterday. The drained water looked clean. Not much dirt. No smell. Will run a descaler tomorrow or over the weekend.
 
As there is no temperature control button, so I thought that I will use the "HOT" water mode. Strangely it never goes to "Very Hot " mode anyway in any of the manual modes.
Does it have an inbuilt heater ? I don't know what their definition of hot and very hot it but its seems to be dropping with energy considerations.

If you have a thermometer to measure the water temperature at the start it would be ideal.
Water level selected was "High". This leaves around 6.5 CM of from the lower edge. Check pics. Using "Very high" mode simply adds a tiny bit more water leaving just 3 cm from the edge. So there is practically no difference.
All I'm saying is make that gap ZERO by pouring in a bucket of hot water.

Can you post the dimensions of your drum ? From the bottom of the gasket that is the point i want the water to touch to the bottom of the drum or height and diameter of the drum.
Hard water causes severe deposition on the walls of the machine. The pictures explain a lot. The apparent scratches / discoloration patches that you see are simply hard water deposits on the wall. The actual stainless steel body is actually fine.
Is your descaler able to remove it completely in one go ? I see the packets are just 100gms each.
This time around i used 100 grams of Vanish or about 2 full scoops. There is significant foam as it can be seen from the picture. I will also check for proper chemical instead of using Vanish.
Vanish foams a lot after the spin so you have to give it like an hour for the suds to settle so you can actually see if there is any debris.

The labogens won't foam much and settle faster.
I am also including video of the machine using "Heavy" Mode. The water that came out today was fairly clean. Today it was the third day of cleaning cycle. I think i still need to do 2 more cycles for the water to come out clean.
I think you should increase the soak time to 12 hours. Put the powder in, give it a stir for ten minutes then switch it off, come back after 12 hours. Give it a ten minute stir and see what you find.

The advantage of this method with percarbonate or Vanish is you get some visual feedback. You have some idea where you stand.

Do you ever see any residue when you use your descaler in all these years of use ?
To end the post here is a disgusting pic of the gunk that came out of the machine.
It's not a lot. Which makes me wonder whether there is more or not. Did you find more with the first two tries ?

You must be using powder and not liquid. Gets much more gross with liquid and fabric softener. And if there is mould on top the deposits coming off will make the water look like a sewer :nailbiting:

It's just powder soap scum that coats the tub and drum. Powder we use is white. But you see its brown because when wet the dirt from the clothes attaches to it. And this is what we wash our clothes in. Hence proper tub cleaning is imperative.
I am a bit skeptical about disassembling a washing machine. I can easily do Consoles, controllers, Phones, Computer etc ,and heck even some parts of the Car.
But somehow I am shit scared of messing something up in WM.
Well you have the aptitude. All you need is confidence. Top loader is easier to dissemble than a front loader. Easiest way is if you can get some one to do it for you the first time so you can understand what it takes.

The idea is to see in some way how bad things are.

All that is needed is a screwdriver to begin with. There will be two screws around the top console, and two at the back. If you get those out then the top will open and lean back. Careful as you do it not to pull any pipes or wires. You will have to prop it up with a stick or hang a string from some where higher and tie it.

Then there will be a plastic disc on top of the drum. It will be attached to some screws. If you can get those off and then look for tabs holding it down that you can pry off with a screw driver you can remove this disc. That's it.

disc.jpg


Now you can shine a torch in and see the gap between the basket and the tub. That will give you an idea how things are. If it's not too bad then chemicals can finish the job.

opened.jpg


There is one more thing you can do.

He managed to lift the washplate/impeller off his LG TL without too much trouble. He posted a follow up when people complainted it was not as easy as it looked. He has yet to progress on to full dissembly. Just tip of the iceberg here.

If yours won't come out then you need to find a way to pry it up from the sides slowly.

You might be surprised to find what is under. Post pics so people understand why its better to do it.
I am not sure about the quantity of vanish. 200 grams seems too high. But you are a better judge for this.
If you look at the Vanish packet under tough stains they say to use one scoop in 5L of water. If your tub holds 50+L of water that would mean ten scoops.

Each scoop is 60 gms or a total of 600gms (!) That is the size of scoop you get in a 400gm packet of Vanish.

So 200gms is quite conservative given the volume of water. I would gladly use more than 30gms in a front loader if there wasn't a foaming problem.
This time around i used 100 grams of Vanish or about 2 full scoops. There is significant foam as it can be seen from the picture. I will also check for proper chemical instead of using Vanish.
Is that a bleach compartment on the left ? this gives you more options :)
We can use "the store water mode" to soak the machine for 12 hours or more.
If it works like she explains it here then it could come in handy. After the wash let it sit there for 12 hours. You would then then to agitate for ten minutes to see if anything more comes out and only then go to 2xrinse and finally spin.
 
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Already linked in the main post.


The company is called Labogens but sodium percarbonate from any chemical company will work so long as it passes the viability test described.

Labogens consistency is like Vanish powder. It's good. I could hear it fizzing like club soda for a good 20 minutes in the flask.

If you can find it in tablet form that will dissolve slower even better for front loader use. Used in Aquaculture. @TEUser2K1 any tips where to get tablets ?

This is as close as you can get to Affresh tabs. A detergent scoop's worth of those tabs into the drum every couple of months and you are set :)

Works out cheaper to get things from other industries than directly targeted products.

Thing is getting it in small amounts like a kg or less. Chemical companies sell it in 25kg or larger sacks for commercial use.

This was the only one I found on amazon for percarbonate from a chemical company.

Excessive use of liquid detergents together with low temperature washing will lead to more residue buildup and unwanted smell for sure.

It's easy to overdose detergent if using tabs and doing smaller loads.
Couple of month's back bought this from Amazon. Seeing the good reviews bought it and came to know many are paid review as this seller offered Rs100 cash back. Used it only once and it foamed like anything. Used around 50ml for the LG front load. Is it safe to use again? I am not sure if this is a good descaler liquid.

 
Couple of month's back bought this from Amazon. Seeing the good reviews bought it and came to know many are paid review as this seller offered Rs100 cash back.
Used it only once and it foamed like anything.
The two complaints of over foaming are from people with Bosch. Here and here.

Earlier I used another cleaner by Atomic, and it definitely was not compatible with LG's tub clean mode. Machine was full of foam.

In the end i had to use it with a regular wash cycle that uses less water and that too only half the amount in the packet. I was not left with any satisfaction that the product did anything much other than descaling.

Not familiar with this Walvia product. Seller is offering generic Chinese stuff. So this is a rebrand. Also sold under a slightly different name with same label. Even liquid detergent. Who are these 'Descaler' people ?

Ingredients not mentioned anywhere. There is no legal requirement in India to do so, if ever they do it is voluntary on their part.

Which company made it ? No clue it does not say anywhere who made it.



1) It says it can do descaling AND cleaning so it's a two in one. I prefer to use a separate descaler ie. citric acid and a separate cleaner ie. Vanish or preferably Labogens as mentioned earlier.

When i smell nothing i know its clean, otherwise more applications are required. If there are fragrances like this Walvia has then its masking the extent of the problem. They include fragrance on purpose to reduce the effort otherwise if they say you have to use it many times like I said to do no one will buy their product.

Minium dose says 200-300ml for a 500ml bottle. That is just two applications per 500ml bottle at Rs.349 or just one with 300 ml at Rs.329 per bottle.

I am advocating people do cleaning every month with products mentioned in my first post if they use liquid detergents or once every 2-3 months with powders.

How will you manage to do that with this Walvia ?



2) They show photos of both front loader and top loader. What about dosage for a front loader ??

Can't be the same as a top loader as water in top loader is 4x more. So directions are for a top loader and the amount to use in front loader is 25% less or 50 ml. As you found out it foamed a lot. Meaning its not designed for front loader use to begin with.

This Walvia reminds me of a similar Dettol product I saw some years back. This Dettol cleaner is not just 2 in 1 but 5 in1 :woot:

250ml bottle for only Rs.599. You must use the whole bottle in one go. They recommend once every two months so you need six bottles for a year's supply !!

No confusion with top loader as only front loader picture is used. It looks like a Bosch. But people with top loaders are also reviewing it.

Does Bosch have a tub clean function like LG or did you just use a regualr wash cycle ? So you have to use these products with regular hot wash cycle only. Not tub clean.

Not locally made but imported from the EU and they have to disclose the ingredients. (See Section 3)

What I understood from this Dettol cleaner is it can descale and disinfect. But it won't 'clean' like Vanish or Labogens.

I don't see the point of disinfecting because that will be gone with the next wash load. Machine is again full of germs. But since this is Dettol their products have to disinfect as well. I'm more open to their laundry sanitiser than this cleaner tbh. I use that sanitiser from time to time to remove smells from clothes and it works.

When i read the product page on Dettol's UK website I found this
  • Does Dettol Washing Machine Cleaner fill the drum with foam?​

    Yes. That’s how you know the cleaning agents are working.

Eh! What ? :nailbiting: I don't understand Dettol's answer here.....

Same overfoaming problem with this Dettol cleaner as well. yet there are so many 5 star reviews ...

Used around 50ml for the LG front load. Is it safe to use again?
Let's define what safe means here. If you see half the window full of foam its not safe because it can reach the bearing seals. You want it much lower.

To get that you cannot use LG's tub clean mode but have to use a regular wash cycle which uses less water.

Alternatively you can throw in some mops and then you can use this Walvia with tub clean. Don't exceed 50ml though.
I am not sure if this is a good descaler liquid.
It seems to be doing something according to this review. Some debris has come out so it works for cleaning but there are cheaper alternatives available.

What has not dawned on the reviewers of this product is you need to keep hitting the machine with this product until no debris comes out.

They will have run out funds by that point ;)
 
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Man, why do I remember you recommending the Atomic Cleaning powder a few years ago. It did help to an extent with grime and smell though. This was for a top-loader and it didn't foam as much.
 
Man, why do I remember you recommending the Atomic Cleaning powder a few years ago. It did help to an extent with grime and smell though. This was for a top-loader and it didn't foam as much.
This thread intends to address exactly the issue you had back then. Today I'd approach it in a slightly different way.

Do you still use that same machine?
 
4. Toploaders

The best way to clean a top loader is to disassemble it and manually wash it with a brush. If you can't do that or don't want to pay someone to do it then read on.

For this section, I'm going to post screenshots from a youTuber in Japan. Read the summary here before you watch the video. Then we will see how best to adapt his method.

He purchased a second-hand Toploader of 2011 make and was told by the sales clerk that the machine had been maintained but was never disassembled for cleaning.

Unique about his video is he shows you before and after. So we can see the effect of various treatments. It took him 3 disassembles and 3 assembles to make this video !!

This is what the internals look like at the start. The shop did a maintenance wash before selling it to him. Still, quite a bit of mould and soap residue remains.

Not surprising since top loaders do low-temperature washes which if you then use liquids will have more mould buildup than front loaders for the same period of time.

So top loaders need more attention to keep clean since all of the drum is exposed.

Before Oxi Clean_02_.jpg


Before Oxi Clean_03_.jpg


Before Oxiclean_c.jpg


He is using 7 grams of Oxi Clean per litre. So 400gms for a 57L top loader. This is the American version. Earlier he tried a Chinese variant of Oxi Clean that did not work so well. The difference is the American version has these blue crystals in it that were lacking in the Chinese variant.

Add hot water (at least 60 degrees C) and as high as possible. It will not work well unless the water is hot.

Run the machine for 5 minutes then let it stand for 24 hours. Scoop out any dirt that floats with a sieve.

Drain the machine

Fill it again with hot water to the top. Add another 400gm of Vanish

Run it for 15 minutes then let it stand for two hours. Remove any floating debris with a sieve. Rinse twice with plain water and spin.

Here are the results.

Before and after Oxi Clean_Jun_27_2020_01.jpg


Before and after Oxi Clean_Jun_27_2020_02.jpg


Before and after Oxi Clean_Jun_27_2020_03.jpg


On the left is how it was at the beginning and on the right is after the 2x Oxi Clean treatment. There is some improvement.

He has reassembled the machine and hits it with bleach next.

Kitchen Bleach_15.jpg


He is using a local brand of bleach. Since this is a general-purpose bleach it has no rust inhibitor.

He fills the tub up with 40 degrees C water. Lukewarm is good enough with bleach. Knocks the entire bottle in which is 1.5L of 6% strength.

Run the machine for 15 minutes, soak for two hours. Then rinse twice and spin.

With Chlorine bleach, there won't be much residue floating like Oxi-Clean as the bleach dissolves it. All you will see is the water is more cloudy.

Left Oxi_Clean_followed by Bleach_04.jpg


Left Oxi_Clean_followed by Bleach_05.jpg


Left Oxi_Clean_followed by Bleach_06.jpg


The difference after the bleach is quite noticeable.

He then goes on to pressure wash the parts

Oxi clean vs. Chlorine bleach vs. Hand wash_10.jpg


And here is a summary from start to finish

Start Oxi clean vs. Chlorine bleach vs. Hand wash_11.jpg


Start Oxi clean vs. Chlorine bleach vs. Hand wash_12.jpg


Start vs. Oxi clean vs. Hand wash_08.jpg


And that is the final result. The chemical treatment isn't perfect but it gets us 90% there.

Now you have an idea of how dirty things can get which is not evident to many people. The outside looks clean but we cannot see the inside.

How effective the chemicals used are and what a manual clean can do.


Notes

Since we will be using Vanish we can use the 7gm/L as a guide. 400gm for a 60L volume top loader.

With the Labogens since its higher concentration of percarbonate you can get away with 200gm.

Or you can halve the quantities and see how much comes out the first time. 200gm Vanish instead of 400gm and 100 gm Labogens. Don't go lower than that or it won't be as effective for a top loader full of water.

I would not use bleach in the quantity he did. That large an amount is to get more strikingly visible results to show on youtube. But it will also be quite harsh.

1.5L is overkill, the product used often in Japan comes in 500ml bottles and is made by SC Johnson (they make Baygon & Windex in India) will give the same result. It's quite cheap since it's chlorine bleach but with a rust inhibitor.

The Hitachi drum vol is 57L and the bottle is 1.5L which means the dilution is 38x

A bottle of bleach is 50,000 ppm Cl, when diluted 38x becomes 1,300ppm which is quite high. To keep things more gentle I suggest not going over 500 ppm Cl and not using chlorine bleach but instead using the Suma Cl tablets as mentioned earlier. You get fifty tablets in the container. Much gentler action than bleach.

With FL's the dose is 3 tabs to get 200 ppm in a tub clean program using 15L of water. You would times that by 4 for a top loader of volume 60L when filled to the brim. Use 12 Suma tabs.

A combination of percarbonate followed by Suma should go a long way to cleaning up that machine if it's smelly and covered with soap residue.

Top loaders have as a con that the entire drum can get dirty and as a pro, they can also be cleaned.

The reason for more quantity and time is these chemicals are gentle. Stronger chemicals will do the job faster but repeated use will tarnish the shiny finish and you will end up with a dull grey looking basket. Nobody wants that. I've seen people on Amazon complain about just this with some cleaning products.

He only does two treatments with the Oxy clean. One followed by a 24h wait. That long wait helps to loosen deposits. The point here is you have to hit it until you don't see any more deposits flaking off. It might take 5 or more attempts.

Hitting it with Suma tabs after is up to you. As you can see it does get what the Oxy clean could not. Maybe do this once every six months.

While sticking to the Vanish every three months as a preventative measure against buildup.

Give it a go and post your experiences.
 
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Hopefully I won't be using the current machine after a few months. Otherwise I would have found someone to open it and get it cleaned. Thanks for the tips
 
Hopefully I won't be using the current machine after a few months. Otherwise I would have found someone to open it and get it cleaned. Thanks for the tips
Why don't you give it a go with Vanish or the Labogens. You will have to do it a few times and then finish it off with the Suma

Whether you can tell the difference between this way and that Atomic cleaner you used earlier

The test for clean is you stick your head in after draining the water at the end and you smell nothing.

For years I used to get this mildew smell from my front loader when I did that. It was only after I hit the machine with 5 tub cleans in a row with mops and Vanish that it went away.

You don't need mops in the top loader btw. That is only for front loaders since the water does not reach higher in the tub otherwise.
A guide for machine washing your washing machine. Brilliant :D
Until machines are able to do it themselves.

There are LG dryers that claim to self-clean but when dissembled those claims don't quite hold up.

To clean these you have to disassemble the damn things otherwise they will die sooner than normal due to lint buildup and they cost a lot.

Need a better design here. But I don't think there is one in existence :sorry:
 
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5. Combo Washer Dryers

The process to clean these machines is slightly different in that it involves removing lint buildup before giving the machine a wash as is done for front loaders. It is important to do this every 3-6 months at least to maintain drying efficiency as well as reduce the risks of a fire.


The above video from an Indonesian youtuber gives an idea what to do for an LG washer dryer but the process should be similar with Samsung models as well.

- He starts off by cleaning the filter at the bottom. For washer dryers this cleaning has to be done more often than regular front loaders due to lint buildup.

- The next step is to remove any left over lint that did not come out with a regular washing. He takes a hose and pushes it in the detergent cavity after removing the soap drawer. Then puts it on a Spin cycle only. Turns the tap on and when it reaches max spin speed he opens the tap completely to give the inside drum a good spray to remove any lint that might be stuck in inacessible areas of the tub. The bottom filter cap is left open and the water drains out on the floor, maybe if you can fashion a hose attachment to push into the filter opening and then direct the hose into the wash area you won't end up flooding the floor. He only runs it for five minutes as no more lint is coming out but recommends to run it longer if done for the first time.

- The next bit is unique to washer dryers. He removes the top panel and starts unscrewing the blower housing. Look at the amount of lint that has collected in there !!! All of it has to be removed periodically. It is more in this guys case because he admits that the mesh at the blower intake got damaged and he had to remove it. So be careful with that mesh when cleaning. It makes a big difference to the amount of lint that will end up in the blower housing.

Finally he finishes with a drum cleaner from Taiwan. Here is a review. Comes in two parts. One is percarbonate and the other for silver ions which acts as a disinfectant. Just follow the instructions in the opener for front loaders with Vanish or Labogens for this bit.

This cleaning can be done by the owner or service personnel. LG washer/dryers does not seem as complicated to clean as some Panasonic washer dryer's I've seen which require even the tub to be opened up to remove lint buildup.

People buy these washer dryers because they are convenient. You put the clothes in and after some time they come out dry or almost dry enough to be put into the cupboard. But very few are aware of the extra maintenance required to keep these machines in operating order.
 
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@technofast post your experience here pls

Remember to use some fabric say 0.5kg of clean towels or mops. Ideally white in colour or other light colours.

Be careful not to allow any moisture into the container otherwise the SPC will expire. Cap it once you're done. It's quite a tight seal to get off and on but it will keep longer like that.
 
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