Guitar Discussion Thread

Re: For guitarists of all levels…

Reading chord diagrams

To start with, chords in most chord charts have a sequence of six digits and X’s. The digits each represent a string and fret co-ordinates, and x simply means to not play the string, or to mute it. The leftmost digit is the thickest string, the rightmost the thinnest. So,

000000

Means to play all strings open.

xxxxx1 means to play only the first fret on the thin(high) e string.

x32010 is a basic C major chord. It tells us to not play the top string, to fret the 5th string at fret 3, 4th at 2, leave the G open, second string fret 1, and the last thin string open. This gives us (from 5th string) C, E, G, C, E - all the notes in the C major chord.

Inversions and voicing

We can also play the same chord by only hitting the 5, 4 and 3 strings, we’ll get the same chord. It will sound slightly different, but will be essentially the same chord. This is known as an voicing. Staying with C major, play the following:

x32010

x320xx

x32013

All are open positions for the C major chord. All work equally well, and can be used effectively for tonal variations. Now play

xxx988

xx5553

x3555x

x35550

All are the same C chord, but starting from different root notes. In strict chord theory terms the first two in the above set are not C at all, but G65-sus4 and Em#5. But they work just fine as substitutes for C, and when fingerpicking, they are invaluable as playing C in the same position sounds very boring. These are called inversions of a chord.

CAGED

Now onto the last part, which is the CAGED system. These 5 keys contain all the shapes you will ever need to play any of the major scales and chords. Learn the shapes and you will get far, the only thing you need is to barre.

C: CdeFGa**

A: Abc#DEf#[G#]

G: GabCDe[f#]

E: Ef#g#ABc#[D#]

D: Def#GAb[C#]

The minor chords are small letters, and denotes diminished chords. Finger as many chords as you can in the open positions. Some of them will be impossible,so we now move to the next part: barre chords.

Barre chords**

Barre chords, together with the CAGED system, basically open up the entire fretboard for you. A barre chord is formed by using your index finger to form a ‘bar’ on the strings at a given fret. This basically allows you to ‘move’ the zero fret of the guitar, and acts as a new ‘nut’ so that the chords sound correct at a position higher up on the fretboard. It requires that

  1. you are familiar with the shape

  2. your index finger has sufficient strength to form the bar and not mute any strings

  3. the rest of your fingers can form the chord shape without assistance from the index

As you already know, each fret on you guitar is a chromatic half step. So the fretboard goes (top string) E F F# G G# A A# B C C# D D# E till the twelfth fret, and then repeats. Any chord that you play at the open position can be moved down to transpose it. For example, play an open E like so

022100

Now without taking your left-hand fingers off the strings, move the 2 down to the 5th fret. Like so:

x554xx

Only play the three fretted strings. See how you’ve kept the same chord tone, but higher in pitch? This is strictly an inversion of G, but addition of your fourth finger will give you the proper chord:

35540x

And a full barre will give you a full G:

355433

Note that a full barre will be difficult at first. Our instincts get us to use our most important fingers first. That is why we have to train up all our four fingers or we will never be able to free up the index finger for barring chords.

Also note that it is strictly not necessary to full barre chords. A 35540x barre will be much quicker to execute and quicker to play, as we are only hitting five strings at a time. Unless you’re playing bluegrass where fuller chord sounds are required, the other forms will do fine.

The easiest shapes to barre are E major and Minor, and A major and minor. Between these four forms, you can move up and down and explore the fretboard to your heart’s content.

Done!!

This wraps up my theory monologue - sorry for the long posts. Do feedback as much as you can, and let me know if there are any questions on the same. Here are some chords to add a bit of variety to your playing, these sound good on acoustic guitar:

x24400

xx0787

xx0788

xx0780

xx078(10)

x54530

xxx453

Re: For guitarists of all levels…

Bonus: Unusual progressions: this is not really beginners’ thing, but here are some nice things to try if you want to explore beyond the Dsus2/4 and G7. All are in key of C.

Minor fourth degree (Fm) as a leading chord to tonic

Double dominant (D7) for same purpose

Sus3rd (Esus4)

6th minor sus4 (Asus4, Asus2 and Am7sus4)

Tonic - 7 - maj7 (C, C7, Cmaj7 though this works best in key of A and E, and is easy to move)

Re: For guitarists of all levels…

Hey Guys,

    Would D'Addario XL gauge stings be heavier than Local XL gauge stings? ;)

Re: For guitarists of all levels…

Gauges are gauges, it can’t be different if 2 sets of strings have the same gauge… for example, a set of D’Addario 9’s will be the same as Karuna 9’s. On the other hand, “tone” and “flexibility” would vary by brand even if the strings are of the same gauge :slight_smile:

Additional info you didn’t ask for lol: If you’re using 8’s, another thing to worry about is how easily the top 3 strings break… their durability and tone isn’t that great either, and generally, 9’s have much better tone and last longer. I use D’Addario EXL120 (9’s) and change my strings every 3-6 months, depending on when they start to lose tone and sustain. Another thing to note is that EXL120’s will feel a lot like 8’s due to their flexibility, plus you get better tone and durability :slight_smile:

And if you can’t get D’Addario EXL120, you can look for Ernie Ball Super Slinky strings.

Re: For guitarists of all levels…

I’m not sure what Karuna calls XL are 9, AFAIK they’re more like 8s. I’ve generally seen all local strings (except what is called ‘export quality’) run one gauge lower than the correct equivalent. At least on acoustics.

For electrics, even though I don’t play much, I actually like the light guage (10s). AFAIK only Reynolds makes those freely available (Indian brand). But then again I play 13s on my acoustic, so WTH. I just prefer the fatter tone, I guess.

Strings are cheap, get a few different sets, and make notes so you can remember the sound. By the time it’s time to change strings, you forget what they sounded like when new. This way you can narrow it down to your favorite strings.

Re: For guitarists of all levels

Whats that? :ashamed: I’m a noobie :face_with_tongue:

Re: For guitarists of all levels

Its for my dad and uncle actually, dad plays an acoustic-electric Ovation so he wanted to experiment with the tones it offers, uncle’s a metal guitarist, already owns a PODXt, so again its more of experimentation.

As I said, I’ll be buying the soundcard with Line-In, and the software, well, ahem :wink:

Re: For guitarists of all levels

It’s a type of wood used extensively by Ernie Ball in their MusicMan series, but it’s only used for the neck, not the fingerboard.

Anish, fine for experimenting I guess but without the controller I’m afraid it can only be used for experimenting due to the latency, whether you have a good sound card or not :slight_smile: I haven’t checked out the latest Guitar Rig though so let us know how that goes.

Re: For guitarists of all levels

Hmmm… I checked a few videos of Guitar Rig with Audio Kontrol 1, and it seemed fine, besides NI recommends Audio Kontrol 1 with Guitar Rig. As I said, I plan to get one anyways since I’ll be using it with Ableton Live for DJ’ing on stage. Pretty nifty device, check it out :

NATIVE INSTRUMENTS : Products : AUDIO KONTROL 1

Re: Guitar Discussion Thread 2008

Hopefully it does work :slight_smile: The problem with playing guitar real-time through any software plugin is that the slightest latency will completely throw off your playing and timing, especially during tracking. The only software-based plugins I use (after recording) are equalizers, compressors and time-based effects.

Re: Guitar Discussion Thread 2008

Absolutely true. If they like what they’re playing on, investing in the controller is always an option. Thanks for the help, will surely update you once we test it out :slight_smile:

Re: Guitar Discussion Thread 2008

I found this site…

Guitar Scales @ Chordbook.Com

@Pros, please can you comment on the site ?:slight_smile:

Re: For guitarists of all levels

+1 for the line6.. the pod xt beats them all! :blush:

Re: Guitar Discussion Thread 2008

Well, it doesn’t really beat them all but it’s definitely a good multi-effects unit just like Boss’ GT series and Digitech/Zoom’s current flagship products. Bottom line, multi-effects units do a decent job of amp/pedal simulation and modulation but they will never come close to the real thing :slight_smile:

Re: Guitar Discussion Thread 2008

Chord dictionaries are helpful when you’re getting started, but focus on chord theory and you won’t ever need to refer to any book again.

Btw nobody is a pro unless they play guitar for a living, and there’s no such thing as semi-pro :wink:

Re: Guitar Discussion Thread 2008

^

I don’t use the chordbook there..

I use the patterns of scales they have..:-/

Re: Guitar Discussion Thread 2008

Ah, sorry I misread that… did not visit the site but I just checked it out and it’s a nifty little app :slight_smile:

Re: Guitar Discussion Thread 2008

was a fan of digitech.. until line 6
boss is good.. n id recommend zoom for beginners..
keeping aside multi’s
setting up the individual effects/amps.. is a pain in d a$$
need lots of exp.. and time to throw on experimenting;)

Re: Guitar Discussion Thread 2008

Don’t mind me. Just posting to keep my subscription alive, and mark my 1000th post on TE!

Re: Guitar Discussion Thread 2008

1001th post, awaiting deletion. Excuse the double post.