Audio Audiophile Dac / Amp

bennysachdev

bennysachdev

Adept
Hey guys,

I needed a dac for my laptop and i was really confused :S

I don't need a portable one and the size doesn't matter.

Will be using it to drive my TF10s, Grado Sr80i, Future Hps, and soon to come AE5 or Krk Rokit 6.

Out of this the TF10s and Sr80i's don't really need that much power but i was looking two steps ahead and preparing for the speakers which, i feel, driving them out of the laptop, wouldn't do justice to it. :hap5:

So post your suggestions. Doesn't matter if its a tube or a solid state(SS) one. As long as it is future-proof and has an excellent VFM.

Also what would the best way of transporting music from my laptop to the dac?
As in, USB/3.5mm interconnect/toslink cable(macbookpro supports toslink i guess)?

Budget is around 150-300$

Also whats the deal with Tube Amps? Are they better than SS?
What other types of Amps / Dacs are there and what would make them Unique?

This is one which i had shortlisted:-
Headfonia Review of the Audinst MX1
 
I can tell you what I observed out of the SS-out and the tube pre-outs on the Maverick D1 amp I have been using. The outputs were fed to the MX5021 and a pair of Wharfedale 9.1 bookshelves through a Norge 2060 amp. The SS-out had a bright sound signature associated with the output and the notes of the instruments could be heard distinctly with a tinge of artificial touch to it. Whereas the tube pre-outs had a warm sound signature associated with it - fairly distinct with the slightly dull output but the bass was lovely and the tones were awesome.

MBP supports toslink out through the 3.5mm jack headphones-out AFAIK although the best method of a jitter-free output would be to use the USB to SPDIF out converter such as the M2Tech HiFace USB to SPDIF converter and then feed the signal to the DAC through the coaxial in. :)
 
Thanks for your reply desecrator,

Yes your right, the mbp supports a mini-toslink thru the 3.5mm socket like other mac pcs. Although toslink may not be the best way, its certainly better than standard 3.5mm as toslink cables use optical transmission.

But then again if i purchase a dac and like most dacs support usb, the need for the Uber Expensive M2tech Usb to Spdif would not be required, right?
 
Actually, a DAC which accepts USB input does have jitter irrespective of the digital input. The M2Tech device is meant to get rid of it although this is highly dependent on other factors as well.
 
Desecrator said:
I can tell you what I observed out of the SS-out and the tube pre-outs on the Maverick D1 amp I have been using. The outputs were fed to the MX5021 and a pair of Wharfedale 9.1 bookshelves through a Norge 2060 amp. The SS-out had a bright sound signature associated with the output and the notes of the instruments could be heard distinctly with a tinge of artificial touch to it. Whereas the tube pre-outs had a warm sound signature associated with it - fairly distinct with the slightly dull output but the bass was lovely and the tones were awesome.

MBP supports toslink out through the 3.5mm jack headphones-out AFAIK although the best method of a jitter-free output would be to use the USB to SPDIF out converter such as the M2Tech HiFace USB to SPDIF converter and then feed the signal to the DAC through the coaxial in. :)
Click to expand...

Hi ,

How is the maverick i am planning to buy this ...
 
@benny,

Instead of M2Tech Hiface, you can look at HRT Music Streamer II / II+. Recent units of Hiface have a sonic issue - HiFace, sensitive information - Head-Fi.org Community. But that's an expensive route.

For a stand-alone DAC + Headphone Amp in your budget, MX-1 seems to be a good fit for your budget.

Slightly more, you can look at Audio-GD FUN Version-A. But, I'm not comfortable with a select group of Audio-GD admirers who push it's products on every related thread in Head-fi. Kind of loses the objectivity when you don't hear any opposing views at all.
 
^ Slightly better parts and Wolfson DAC chip.

Other than that, it supports 24/96 via USB. But to me, it does not make sense to pay a premium for that spec alone. I don't think many of us use Hi-res files for regular listening as of now :)

@benny,

Now that you have understood our intentions of making your wallet thinner, buy Audinst MX-1 quickly ;)
 
^Actually you could go with Wofson DAC chip 8741 with fun B version too at 15$ extra cost. Current B versions support 24/96 usb by default. Yes it has got better parts. Correct me if I am wrong. I too have read a lot on MX1 and really looks like great VFM. :)
 
The HRT is a pure DAC. Would need a separate amp as well.

I would suggest either an Audio-GD Fun or a an Audinst MX-1.

Since you are in Singapore, you could try auditioning the MX-1 and see how it is.

Its got a pretty powerful amp. (Not as powerful as the Fun though) but the DAC is supposedly better ? I dunno but worth an audition for sure.

The best part of the MX-1 is that it can be run directly off the computer without having to be tethered to a power outlet. It wont have as much power for the amp section as compared to using the power supply attached but the DAC will work just fine and for most headphones you wouldn't be able to hear the difference.

Do see if you can audition it first though. :)
 
Well one thing i din't see in the Audinst Mx1 is a input for a source other than thru a USB. Correct me if i'm wrong but i will only be able to use the Audinst with a PC and not thru any other portable source like my Sflo2.

@esanthosh and haraakiri :- would the HRT serve as a better dac than the Audinst Mx1 seeing that they are priced almost the same in terms of sound quality. Would it be more neutral? Could i connect my HP's directly to it?

--- Updated Post - Automerged ---
Amarbir[Lynx-India] said:
Hi ,
How is the maverick i am planning to buy this ...
Click to expand...
In 3 simple letters........ V.F.M :p

--- Updated Post - Automerged ---
BF1983 said:
Since you are in Singapore, you could try auditioning the MX-1 and see how it is.
Click to expand...
Yes Sir!!!!! :)

--- Updated Post - Automerged ---
esanthosh said:
^ I didn't know that. If that's the case, Fun "B" is more VFM compared to "A".
Click to expand...
I am totally clueless about the Fun and its components, I did see their website and the Fun version.A and version.B and the D/A chip difference was the only thing i cud understand. Could some1 pls explain. Sorry for being sucha n00b!!!
 
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