The water is actually cold in the morning here. I still use a geyser for my bath. Even in peak summer i don't think it hits 30. I maybe wrong since i never measured.
Why don't you measure it then? because its really important in terms of wash quality and machine longevity.
Use a food thermometer
or a TDS meter
that can also record temperature.
^These cheapo food thermometers are slow to react so let it sit in a glass of water for at least 10-20 seconds. The one I got back in 2015 for Rs.3k odd reacts in seconds.
The whole point of having a machine with a heater is you can do your laundry whenever and not have to confine it to fixed times.
FL is definitely higher running cost when compared to TL. The detergent itself costs higher and the extra power consumption.
So what? my power consumption is 15 units per month. minimum of four washes per week.
Every fourth wash is a 60-degree wash which with my measurements is closer to 52. With a tub clean or maintenance boil wash thrown in.
Take a unit price of Rs.10 which is Rs.150 per month. Not going to break the bank.
Otherwise install a solar heater with a thermostatic valve, which will bring down your heating costs and give you a better result since even your rinses will be warm.
Not worth the hassle for me since over half the year is overcast so not a lot of 'free' heating is going to happen.
Thanks. For starters I have bought 1 kg of Surf Excel Matic. But it didnt come with a scoop
Do they provide scoops with larger packs?
They used to but they are lousy and not graduated. Part of being economical is using measured doses. Getting the family to understand that and sticking to it to avoid overdosing or other mishaps that will over time reduce the life of the machine.
The first on the left is from some medicine we had years ago. It's graduated and I use it to measure out liquids. 15ml with the microfiber loads and 30ml with a full load
The second one comes with the detergent or used to. Filled to the brim it weighed 70 gm of Surf excel. I used a marker to indicate half full.
Third is some Amul scoop I found, it measures out to 10gm
Last is a scoop that came with a 200gm packet of Vanish I think. The 400gm Vanish packet includes a larger scoop which I find is good only for making you use more than needed.
So what you need is to figure out a dose that works and then a scoop of that size and you use just that one scoop full with every load.
Wife is pushing to use liquids though.
With some clothes that helps. Make sure it's front loader certified and use a measuring cup. Not the one they give you as it's harder to gauge. I dislike liquids because they don't flow as easy as powders. So I measure out 30ml and pour it into the drawer. Then I have to leave that cup upside down in there for at least a good minute until another up to 10ml flows out of it. Powders are so much easier to dose, pour and go.
How would you know if you have added the right amount of detergent?
Your clothes come out clean, there is minimal foam in the machine during the wash. Though this can be misleading as anything fluffy like towels will create more foam than thinner fabrics. As I said earlier start with half the dose with a full load and then see whether you are happy with the result. Your water hardness plays a role here so unless you measure that I can't tell you more. My dose of 30gm is for the water hardness I have.
Also, everyone in family are suggesting to use cold wash instead of 40C hot water as that may reduce the life of clothes and dull out the colours.
Your family has never done 40-degree washes before. So how do they know this? they heard it somewhere.
40 is warm, not hot. Lukewarm is 30 and hot is 50-60. If you can measure the temperature of the water, stick yours and their fingers in various temperatures and see how it feels.
Now, would you prefer to bathe or do your dishes in cold water? how well would that temperature water clean compared to say warm water? for the effort expended. Human sebum only melts at 30 degrees so 30 and no lower is the bare minimum to wash your clothes and expect to have body oils removed. You get the point.
To remove stains takes enzymes and Ariel & Surf have them. These enzymes work best at body temperature not cold. See here
Take note that you can't wash natural fibres like wool or silk in Surf or Ariel or the enzymes will eat the fabric and create holes. Only cotton or other cellulose-based fabrics. Enzymes were the innovation that allowed to wash at a lower temperature like 40 instead of 60 as seen in this advert
from the 80s. No Tide in the UK, only Ariel.
When I measured
the temperature inside the machine, I discovered 40 was closer to 35 in the washer. Depending on the tap temperature, it might take up to ten minutes to heat the water to that temperature and then it stops. If the wash cycle is 2h30 you will be washing with that temperature water for the entire wash cycle. The heater does not come on and go off to maintain the temperature. It's a one-shot thing at the start. After such a long wash the temperature drops by five degrees.
Reducing the life of clothes is a function of how rough the washing is. A front loader is gentler than a machine with an agitator. You should match the clothes type to the appropriate program. Mixes should be washed in the right program and not the cotton program which will be more vigorous. Any delicate fabrics should be put in a delicates bag
Colour fading can be for a number of reasons.
- The dye used was cheap and wear and tear lightens sooner than better quality garments.
- Most often it's because the wrong detergent was used. One with oxygen bleach or a detergent that was too harsh. In India, almost no detergent comes with oxygen bleach other than Vanish. And that applies to powders. Liquids by definition cannot have any oxygen bleach. So thinking liquid is safer than powders on this basis is not valid.
- too little detergent was used and mineral build-up occurs making the clothes dull. The same applies to detergents that are not very good quality too or not designed for front loader.
- the biggest culprit here I find is care labels by garment companies. The standard they use is cold wash and gentle. This is not enough and as good as useless for the majority of clothes. The garment manufacturers are only legally obligated to tell you a safe way to clean the clothes. Not the best way. And the best way is a warm wash regardless of the fabric with the correct program selected.
LG guy mentioned to use only Surf or Ariel and nothing else. He also said pick either one in detergent or liquid and use it without changing. Why not Tide?
He's not aware Tide has a FL variant out now. He is thinking of regular Tide. Having tried out Tide, Ariel & Surf my preference is to go back to Surf.
My demo guy didnt suggest any stand. Just got him to level it properly. He only suggested to descale once in every 30 washes. Mentioned that LG sells descaling powder. Costs 500 for 3 packets.
Good guy. If it's acidic it will do the job, otherwise use 100gm of citric acid.
And tell your family not to use fabric softener. Better for the clothes, the machine and your sanity.