FS: Power Cooling and Modding Seasonic X850 Power supply

cranky

Skilled
Feedback: 31 / 0 / 0
Expected Price (Rs)
4500
Shipping from
Kolkata
Item Condition
3 out of 5
Payment Options
  1. Cash
  2. Bank Transfer
Purchase Date
Feb 1, 2012
Shipping Charges
Local buyers only
Have you provided two pics?
  1. Yes
Remaining Warranty Period
None
Invoice Available?
No
Reason for Sale
No longer needed
Mfr link: https://seasonic.com/x-series/

Purchased 2012, no longer needed. Was lying in non-functional state for last 5 years before I repaired it myself - a single component in the primary circuit was not working, and replacing that fixed the supply.

Tested extensively with a i5 12400f and RTX 4070 Ti Super - I ran this for about a month, eventually downcycling my RM850X with a Corsair native 16 pin cable.

Will provide one week testing warranty and cover one way shipping. Personally, I think it's a fantastic supply with plenty of life left. Component quality is much better than what you'll find on new supplies.

Original box and all cable are available. Shipping included in price.

Please note: due to what components I had on hand and used to fix it, the supply will not work correctly on 110/120V mains. Can only use in Europe, Australia and 220-240V Asian countries.

Note2: shipping will cost 500 extra. It actually costs quite a bit more, but I'll cover the rest. As always, shipping is at buyer's risk.
Price dropped to 4000 + shipping.
 

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?? It is in perfect working condition. I don't understand the issue, how do you surmise it is "half working" and "Fire Hazard"? What evidence do you have to draw that conclusion? I have

Tested extensively with a i5 12400f and RTX 4070 Ti Super - I ran this for about a month

What tests have you performed on this unit, how familiar are you with PSU internals? Do you even know what starts fires in PSUs? Do you know the failure modes inside a ATX PSU? If so, which exact failure mode do you expect can cause a fire? Which do you suspect was present here?

If you take issue with the price, this is not the place to discuss it. Else, you can please take your unsolicited advice elsewhere.
 
?? It is in perfect working condition. I don't understand the issue, how do you surmise it is "half working" and "Fire Hazard"? What evidence do you have to draw that conclusion? I have



What tests have you performed on this unit, how familiar are you with PSU internals? Do you even know what starts fires in PSUs? Do you know the failure modes inside a ATX PSU? If so, which exact failure mode do you expect can cause a fire? Which do you suspect was present here?

If you take issue with the price, this is not the place to discuss it. Else, you can please take your unsolicited advice elsewhere.
1) It doesn't work for 110V mains anymore, that's a clear regression in functionality.

2) The burden of proof is not on me to prove that the PSU you repaired is faulty with my research and analysis. It is on you to prove that the PSU you've opened up and fixed and are now SELLING won't lead to problems later on. That you haven't replaced a mosfet, or a capacitor, or a transformer with something inferior or out-of-spec that can overheat and cause fires. That you haven't left a soldered connection in risk of getting shorted, or even left exposed wiring hanging inside of it etc. I'm not sure how most PSUs fail -- I don't need to be, I just need to know that they frequently do. Realistically, you are not Seasonic or any other brand and therefore can't prove that this is safe/reliable with the tools you have.

Would you buy an 850W PSU made by a local electrician? Probably not because you'd be worried about it ruining your expensive components among other things. Similarly, you can't expect people to pay that price or anywhere near it for a broken PSU that some random guy on the internet "fixed". That PSU is either worth scrap value, or maybe a bit more as parts for a bench power supply.

Done responding. Good luck.
 
1) It doesn't work for 110V mains anymore, that's a clear regression in functionality.

1. If the buyer needs it to work on 110V, it's a very simple fix (for me at least) and can be easily done if requested and asked nicely.

It is on you to prove that the PSU you've opened up and fixed and are now SELLING won't lead to problems later on.

How on earth is anyone supposed to guarantee that? Even manufacturers don't do that for brand new supplies - they have a warranty, but it doesn't mean things can't fail. All someone can show is that it is working and maintains voltages under load. I can test those pretty quickly (as can anybody, with just some free software). After one bad deal here, make sure I show videos of all my offered products so that there's no issues.

I'm not sure how most PSUs fail -- I don't need to

2. So you can just hurl accusations and unfounded inferences without any proof, expertise or basic knowledge? You need to have some basic understanding to even make that accusation. Since I'm one down, here's one: You're terrible at your job. See, I can say that without even knowing what you do or how you do it.

can't prove that this is safe/reliable with the tools you have

What makes you think I don't? There's literally free software for voltage readings, power readings, and almost all basic parameters can be tested without any equipment. And I do have access to equipment. It's part of my regular job, although in a different field. With some changes, I can reconfigure the test bench to measure ripple and efficiency if I choose. I have test capacity for most things to do with power supplies. Those unfounded accusations again, huh?

left exposed wiring hanging inside of it etc

Oooh, someone who's never seen the inside of a PSU, ladies and gents, thinks there's wires floating around inside one. If someone asks for pictures or load tests I'm happy to oblige for confirmed offers. And you might get further by asking questions nicely than just hurling things at the wall and seeing if something sticks. I'm always happy to share the process and what was changed.

Done responding.

Yes, yes, good riddance. Don't let the door hit you on the way out.
 
its just my opinion that a 12 year psu that was opened is extremely risky not just for PC but for entire house but it is up-to potential buyer to decide that and anyone who does not understand the risk should stay away,To seller, i just sold a brand new rmaed RMX850 with 2 years warrant for 5k,so its a hard sell at this price ,ultimately its your stuff and you decide the price ,and i believe its a forum and everyone can leave their opinion and theirs no need turn it into an argument ,,,,anyway GLWS
 
Here's the thing, I need not have said it was repaired. I could have simply posted pics, shown test results, said I had opened for cleaning and called it a day. No one would have been the wiser.

I wouldn't have stated any of this upfront if I was not confident of the result and/or what I was offering.

Now, I'm reporting this chain of posts to request mods to remove the gaslighting and off-topic. Hopefully all of these posts including mine, will be gone soon, if not, the flow is there for all to see.

Here's the actual case: https://techenclave.com/threads/are-silverstone-psus-worth-a-punt.201197/post-2530677
 
Cranky, it might give prospective buyers a bit more confidence if you could share specifics of what was changed, the difference in specs of the original component and the replacement one and its function. Saying "a component" in the primary circuit, which is the mains facing side is prone to cause unnecessary speculation.

I am going to take a wild guess that it's a NTC thermistor at the input side that blew. Someone with less working knowledge of electronics might think it may be one of the safety capacitors(yes i know it's unlikely given your description, but we are talking about someone who knows a little but not enough). I'm sure you would not intentionally sell a safety risk, but the buyer has no way to be sure until they have all the information right?

You may be surprised that there are plenty of regions in India where during load shedding, mains voltage goes down to 90-120 ish. I used to experience the same in 2004-8 in my house in the city until they installed a new transformer close to my house.
 
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Good to see some of the old crowd in here :)

Hey Bikey/Greenie. I posted a link in#7 with the exact details, the original component and the replacement, which I discussed a few months ago when the supply was resurrected. It was indeed only the primary 5/8 thermistor, probably caused by a mains surge or some secondary effect of a lightning strike. It was replaced with a 10/6 which is what I had in the box.

Once the supply energises, the thermistor is bypassed by a relay so it's not used while the PC is on. At 100-120V though, I wonder if there is enough voltage to keep the standby circuit activated for first turn on so for safety's sake, I say that it isn't recommended to use this at that voltage, but there's no danger - just that it might just not turn on (I think it should, but no way to practically test that).

I understand brownouts, but the worst that can happen is that the PC will not turn on if one tries to switch it on. Since the rest of the circuit is unaltered, it will still be operating at least till 100V, provided it is already on. I just didn't think at the time of posting the thread there is enough appetite for that level of detail.

This was later proven a few posts back by the conscientious objector who flat out said he wasn't interested in information, only his opinion. The assumptions made in the following posts without foundation or basis in fact left no room for amiable discussion or discovery and I felt my response was appropriate to the accusation. Anyway I hope all this gets cleaned up. I'll leave this open for a few days more and request closure if the miasma is not cleared up from the thread. I'm happy to keep the supply as it's still in excellent condition but you know, pearls and all that.
 
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