Mainline Stabilizer for home

6pack

6pack

ex-Mod
Can I use either of the below two units as mainline stabilizer for my house appliances?
1 - STAAR - 4.0 KVA Input : 170 Volts DESIGNER Digital Voltage Stabilizer (STS - 400D) 1.5 Ton AC / Air Conditioner
2 - Sollatek SVS12B A/C Stabilizer - Sollatek: Flipkart.com
This one is 12Amps. Dont know if FK has the 20Amp version and for what price.

My understanding is these stabilizers only do power correction so even if mentioned that for ac use it could be used for entire home right? I want to install it after the mains line comes to my home mcb switch.
I only have a 280l fridge, one comp + printer + apc ups, 3-4 cfl lights and 2 fans and apc inverter. There's been a problem of high voltages at night due to which my comp goes on battery. The inverter has a ups mode but if i switch it in that mode it always goes on battery since i think normal voltages in my area are around 250-254V volts at any given time. Above 260V my apc ups goes on battery. This happens every night. ANd has started to bug me. Had an old tv voltage stabilizer that i used for comp only, but it seems to be failing now since its just 250W max load.

Edit: got these specs from sollatek brochure.
 
If your electric heater/geyser is not in the same circuit then you can use them.The one mentioned in shop and clues doesn't mention the actual amps ,the KVA or VA rating can mean anything with out knowing the power factor of the unit.But it does mention motors upto 1.5hp meaning it can handle upto 1118 watt of continuous load(your load is roughly around 1000watt this excludes the cold start surge of fridge,printer).But i believe the AC stabilizers output stage switches ON only after a few minutes.


You can also try the V-Guard A.C stabilizers,they also have a dedicated main line stabilizer last i heard it used to cost around 4k and could handle around 3000+ watts.
 
To clarify doubts, I do not use an electric geyser. I forked the mains line in my home to 2 distinct lines.
1 - Heavy utility only line on which the washing machine, steam iron, fridge or any other heavy ~1000W appliance that might come into the house runs. I've kept this utility line as separate in every room.
2 - Lighting line. This runs all lights, fans, tv and computer, printer etc. This line has an inverter connected to it between mains. I mean: Mains -- Inverter -- line 2. Total wattage on this line hardly goes above 500W at any time even if I were to switch on every fan and light and even the computer, printer etc. Tried it once to see what load the inverter showed in its display and it never went above 75%. The inverter is rated 850VA or around 550W max.

I wanted to install the AVR at beginning of the line fork. So that both lines get AVR protection.

v-guard has priced their mainline stabilizers from around 5k - 8k for the 12A - 30A version. Seems like marketing gimmicks to me. I 've gone through their brochures and all have the same features. The prices vary according to the equipment used. I bet if i were to open up a few of these, the internals would be the same in almost everyone of them except the load handling transformer.
Is it more economical to buy a stabilizer separately for fridge & w.m (each) + separate for the line2 system, say about 15A max load?
 
Its not going to be economical to buy them separately ,now the washing machine is only going to use around 350watt for both spin and dry,its only when you put a hot setting will it consume around 2000+ watt.
 
For your lighter equipment's your stablizer should work. I would not recommend connecting your inverter or UPS to the stablizer output. Both your UPS and Inverter might have AVR where in they boost the voltage. its like connecting 2 stablizers in series and you will melt your electrical line and spoil the stablizers. Another point to consider is having appropriate gauge wires to support the 4 KVA stablizer and output from it.

However you complaint is about higher voltage. I think even a stablizer would shut down the output incase of high voltage and you will end up running your equipments in battery mode and i am not sure how it meets your purpose.
 
There is nothing wrong in connecting a stabilizer,the APC inverter he has doesn't have AVR,but the APC UPS does do AVR.

I use a V guard Crystal plus for my APC SUA1000uxi smart UPS.The APC UPS will only do AVR if the voltage goes above 253v or below 196v and most electronic devices are capable of only handling upto 240v continuously,during night time ii used see voltage around 250v which the UPS just passed on to the computer,so installing a stabilizer solved this issue. At times when i see a massive voltage drop the APC UPS can do AVR up to 160v ,anything lower it will go to battery mode but when i connect it to the stabilizer it works with out going to battery even if the main line input voltage is 140v ,which the stabilizer boosts to 160+ volts and the UPS in turn boost the voltage to 200v.
 
kishore.chander said:
For your lighter equipment's your stablizer should work. I would not recommend connecting your inverter or UPS to the stablizer output. Both your UPS and Inverter might have AVR where in they boost the voltage. its like connecting 2 stablizers in series and you will melt your electrical line and spoil the stablizers. Another point to consider is having appropriate gauge wires to support the 4 KVA stablizer and output from it.

However you complaint is about higher voltage. I think even a stablizer would shut down the output incase of high voltage and you will end up running your equipments in battery mode and i am not sure how it meets your purpose.
Click to expand...

ehem... did you read what you typed? if the avr is connected before the ups or inverter or any electrical equipment, it will pass on regulated supply to the next equipment. Hence there will be no case of double avr being done since the dedicated avr first in line will do everything - whether the voltage needs to be boosted or cut down to normal levels. So the next electronic equipment will only see regulated voltage levels at its input.

Regarding the high voltages, have a look at the specs sheet of that Solatek AVR brochure i put up in the first post. It shuts down above 291V input. Below those voltages it gives really good regulated supply at around 230-240V. Plus its rated at 12A. Seems to be better than v-guard who does not give put any detailed specs on its website or on flipkart.
 
6pack said:
ehem... did you read what you typed? if the avr is connected before the ups or inverter or any electrical equipment, it will pass on regulated supply to the next equipment. Hence there will be no case of double avr being done since the dedicated avr first in line will do everything - whether the voltage needs to be boosted or cut down to normal levels. So the next electronic equipment will only see regulated voltage levels at its input.

Regarding the high voltages, have a look at the specs sheet of that Solatek AVR brochure i put up in the first post. It shuts down above 291V input. Below those voltages it gives really good regulated supply at around 230-240V. Plus its rated at 12A. Seems to be better than v-guard who does not give put any detailed specs on its website or on flipkart.
Click to expand...

Based on my knowledge the technology used in voltage stabilizer and UPS AVR are different. The voltage stabilizer takes a little more time to boost the voltage than the UPS AVR. Normally these two are not designed to work together. But if your complaint is only about high voltage, then everything should work fine i guess. But still you can take a choice. If its a cheap UPS that you are using, it wont burn your pocket to replace it.

Give it a try and post your observation. I could learn from your experiment :)
 
mate, i didn't mean to offend you or judge your knowledge or mean anything bad in my previous post. if you want my observation, i'm already using a 20 year tv stabilizer with my apc ups (which cant do avr but goes on battery almost instantly) to take care of the high voltages. if you read cranky's post a few post's above even he's used a stabilizer with his ups. the ups does not even go on battery even once if the stabilizer is in place since the input current the ups gets is already pulled down by the avr. the time difference is less than a second even for the stabilizer i'm using right now. the ups just makes a click sound after the stabilizer pulls down voltage.

and the weird part is the stabilizer even corrects the apc inverter output (the apc inverter only outputs approximated sine wave when on battery) to pure sine wave output. How did i find that out? i have a pogo plug which makes that weird crackling noise if given square wave input. something like the computer psu's do when ups goes on battery supply. In my place the power goes every morning at 6 am sharp and i run the plug on inverter power. i hear it making some tiny sparking noises inside it. i thought it must be the ups not giving pure sine wave to it. so i shut down the plug and attached it directly to wall socket. this time it made even louder crackling noises than when it was connected to the ups. Now, when i connected the ups to stabilizer, the noise went away. it was working like it normally does without making any noise. so the stabilizer actually helped in cleaning up the line quality.
 
Back
Top