OC & Modding Making a DIY AV Flexi-rack!

Gannu

Unbanned
ex-Mod
Since I have thought to invest in a X360 after the recently announced price-cuts (and an AVR shortly) and the components keep piling up, I have decided to make a AV flexi-rack instead of buying a shelf off the market. :D

The best part of this rack is the flexibility it offers to vary the height between the individual shelves and the possibility to extend it side-ways by adding more shelves with studs to support them - thus that explains the name flexi-rack.

Here are some conceptual designs I snatched off the web -

Link 1

Link 2

Link 3

Link 4

I would start off with a simple design of 4 racks supported by 4 studs. The expense for building one is not very high either. The breakdown for the materials are given below:

1. Shelves - I have planned to invest in a 8 ft. x 2 ft. x 17mm thick pre-laminated particle board for about 1250 INR. The shelves can be made of plexi glass as well - they bear sufficient loads without much wobble provided the holes on each shelf are matched and the shelves are secured properly with neoprene washers beneath each plain washer + hex. nut. Another choice of material is plywood or MDF but they are expensive and require additional painting/varnishing to lend the finish.

2. Studs - Or threaded rods are they are known commonly. I chose to use M16 studs as they seem to complement the shelves properly. If the material is SS (stainless steel), it would turn out to be very expensive given the fact that SS as such is expensive and that studs of longer lengths are generally not available in the market and need to bee made on order. Thus, I chose to go with MS (mild steel) instead. They are less expensive and for corrosion prevention and to lend a slick look, they can be chrome plated/galvanised/powder-coated. Not aware of the costs as yet.

3. Nuts - M16 hex. nuts. MS material and to be chrome plated. Not aware of the costs as yet.

4. Neoprene washers - M16. Helps prevent wobbling and vibrations. Secures the shelves with a good mount. Not very expensive either.

5. Plain washers - M16. To keep the neoprene washers in place and to evenly distribute the load. Not expensive.

6. Dome cap nuts/Acorn nuts - M16 - On top of the first shelf instead of the hex. nut to give it an ossum look. Looks like these - link 1, link 2.

Tools required:

The sheet of board can be cut to the required dimensions from the factory itself. Else one may need a handsaw and some sand papers to finish the edges. Even the required holes Some of the essential tools are as follows:

1. Adjustable wrench - to tighten the nuts. Costs about 200 INR (low grade material) all the way upto 1000 INR (high-grade CrV steel - usually engraved in the handle itself!).

2. Spanner - to hold the nut on the bottom of the shelf while the top one is being tightened.

3. Some elbow-grease. :p

Castor wheels can be screwed beneath the bottom-most shelf, in case the shelf needs to be moved often. Or a bush can be inserted at the bottom of the stud.

A hole is drilled one ach shelf to facilitate the entry of wires to avoid the clutter at the back.

I have attached a pdf file which shows the design I have made in Autocad. :p

Comments and further suggestions welcome. :)
 
You could just make a cheap wooden cabinet. Get a 6*4 18mm plywood sheet...non-branded marine ply should cost you about 45 bucks a sq ft. Get a carpenter at the shop to cut it for you for 100 bucks. So you'll land up with 2- 16in*6ft boards + 2- 16in*3ft boards.
Screw them together, and you've got the cabinet frame.
Get glass shelves made, they won't be expensive, I think 1000 bucks max for about 6 shelves.
Get some of those cheap 1/2 inch thin long strips of wood they keep in the hardware shop and nail it to the sides at the height you want the shelves at.

Either get another 6*3 4mm ply sheet for the back, or leave it open.
Paint it, and you're ready to go.
The carpenter at the plywood shop will do most of your work in 15 mins for about a 100 bucks. And once the wood is cut, it'll also be easier to transport.
Should cost you less than 2500, and not too much elbow grease.

Won't be as flexible as your rack, but it'll be neater, and your stuff won't get as dusty if it's enclosed.

--- Updated Post - Automerged ---

btw...you'll have to buy some moulding for your shelves if you use particle board or mdf. If you don't the boards will warp due to moisture.
And if you use moulding, you're going to have to polish everything.
 
@6pack: attached it now since I could not do that from the workplace due to some odd error. Don't mind the title block of the company. :p

PDF

@iamdevil: enclosed ones will not do, since all my components need good ventilation from all the sides. Otherwise it would result in a heat buildup. Besides, I need flexibility thus the idea. :)

Not using MDF or plywood but pre-laminated board.
 
You could make adjustable shelves and leave the back open in the cabinet.

But it won't be as flexible as what you've got planned. Plus you can always dismantle your rack for easy transport/storage.

A thought - instead of wood, why not use glass. Will be easier to clean, and glass and aluminium should give it a nice industrial look.

--- Updated Post - Automerged ---

btw - pre-laminated boards are particle boards with a laminate layer, AFIK.
 
^Yeah those are pre-lam boards.

Glass would make it heavy and expensive. And so would materials like granite etc. Aluminium for what?
 
^ glass has a habit of cracking when least expected. especially around those holes, the stress will be the highest.
 
@6pack- I've got glass shelves everywhere...and a glass topped table. The only time one cracked when was when my friend banged his feet down on it.
But you're right the danger does exist.

@Desecrator - I think glass would be cheaper than wood...and about the aluminium, I was imagining your rack with aluminium rods and nuts, as they can have a nice dull look, and they won't be prone to rust.
 
Nice diagram. I like the first design concept, though it will get dirty quicker, since is white. Be careful with the cable management hole, keep it slightly wide. Rest you are good to go..!
 
Anyway, theres no need to have such a big discussion...I was just throwing options around. It's a simple project...it'll work no matter how you decide to make it...just post pics once it's ready!
 
Aluminium threaded rods and nuts although sounds good on paper is expensive and is a rare commodity. I'm sure it must be done on a made-to-order basis. Even chrome plating if done properly makes the rods and the nuts corrosion proof and lends it a shiny appearance. OTOH plexi glass would have looked great but for some odd reason, I prefer wood to plexi glass. :p

But I honestly appreciate your inputs. :)

@asingh: the color of my pre-lam board is dark brown. And it is white on the other side. I saw few models with the dealer yesterday. And I think a 60 dia hole is sufficient considering the size of the plugs and the cables which should go through it. I want them to cut it properly and not do a shabby job. :\
 
i made an similar rack myself sometime back with similar designs to that in your links..you may keep a note of following..

1) if you go for glass for the shelves ,make sure the it can carry the weight of your future AVR..in general the higher/expensive AVRs weigh more.

2) Do not forget to buy some rubber stubs to fit at the bottom of the rod. It prevents the floor damage from the rods and saves the rod from direct contact with water when the floor is being cleaned

3) make sure to have sufficient hole diameter for wire entry on the shelf which will be used for the AVR

wish you luck with your project ..will wait for the pics

here is a link for my DIY rack

http://www.techenclave.com/show-off/few-pics-my-av-rig-nearly-158166.html
 
Desecrator said:
@asingh: the color of my pre-lam board is dark brown. And it is white on the other side. I saw few models with the dealer yesterday. And I think a 60 dia hole is sufficient considering the size of the plugs and the cables which should go through it. I want them to cut it properly and not do a shabby job. :\

Doubt you will botch the job. Dark brown will compliment well. 60mm hole would be small, I think so. Imagine a bunch of cables all ready in there, and you have to route a thick plug -- might not happen, since the connector on the other end would be free anyways. Just foresight. But you are a ship builder...! :) Cable hole will be the last of your worries. Best of luck. Do post a mini work log if you can.
 
titana said:
i made an similar rack myself sometime back with similar designs to that in your links..you may keep a note of following..

1) if you go for glass for the shelves ,make sure the it can carry the weight of your future AVR..in general the higher/expensive AVRs weigh more.

2) Do not forget to buy some rubber stubs to fit at the bottom of the rod. It prevents the floor damage from the rods and saves the rod from direct contact with water when the floor is being cleaned

3) make sure to have sufficient hole diameter for wire entry on the shelf which will be used for the AVR

wish you luck with your project ..will wait for the pics

here is a link for my DIY rack

http://www.techenclave.com/show-off/few-pics-my-av-rig-nearly-158166.html

Yeah, in fact your DIY rack did inspire me to get this started. :p

As for the AVR, I've decided to keep it in the lower-most shelf considering the weight and the amount of wires connected to the system.

Any idea how much you had to spend for the studs? What size?
stalker said:
If you use MDF/wood, you could make slits along the shelves for better cooling :p

Will help a lot when you OC :rofl:
Lolwut? :S
 
100_0790.jpg
 
Can't see the image. At workplace. :\

Edit: OK I see it now. :)

Those are not required since there are no vent holes in the bottom but at the sides and back and additionally in the front for the phat PS3 which is what I have. :p

Thanks for the input though.
 
@Desecrator

the studs were Rs 240/- per rod ( iirc these were 2 metre rods), i bought two of them and got them cut equally for the rack.
 
^Ah ok. Thanks a lot. :)

And did you cut those holes on the shelves yourself or did you get it done from a carpenter? I have a power drill but don't think fixing a spade bit and doing it myself would be a good idea. :ashamed:
 
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