R5 3600 running at 60° idle and keep shutting down.

Approach Shop. Usually they would help if they have assembled it.

If not.

Start by updating and then reseting the bios.
Try changing ram.
If both fails.
Then remove the processor and reinstall the processor.
If everything has failed till now, it can be either motherboard issue or processor issue.
 
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I am tbh very tensed as some money i got from dad and being student i dont have full authority.
- then do you have thermal paste?
- which thermal paste did they use?

- Also, that 1.1v in bios. If u know how to change voltage keep it there or a bit low for a while till you figure out the issue.

It's probably either bad mount or mount got worse during travel/journey to home or a temporary thermal paste the usual which shops use to check if build even boots or not.
Sometimes screws become loose too during travels, you can try screwing them back in as told in the manner by @YeAhx.
( Presuming the paste hasn't been dried yet )
Similar thing but in video format

- But don't overnight them you will end up causing a different problem altogether which can be worse than the present one.

( I am leaning towards bad mount unless you didn't see them stress test it;
as just recently I had seen people being a bit annoyed with stealth cooler )
 
I have the same processor. At idle on the Windows desktop, I have temps of about 40-45°C. I believe your cpu clearly has a mounting issue or the shop just used some really poor quality thermal paste. Likely what happened is the journey back home jerked the heatsink loose. Try to get it remounted.
 
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- then do you have thermal paste?
- which thermal paste did they use?

- Also, that 1.1v in bios. If u know how to change voltage keep it there or a bit low for a while till you figure out the issue.

It's probably either bad mount or mount got worse during travel/journey to home or a temporary thermal paste the usual which shops use to check if build even boots or not.
Sometimes screws become loose too during travels, you can try screwing them back in as told in the manner by @YeAhx.
( Presuming the paste hasn't been dried yet )
Similar thing but in video format

- But don't overnight them you will end up causing a different problem altogether which can be worse than the present one.

( I am leaning towards bad mount unless you didn't see them stress test it;
as just recently I had seen people being a bit annoyed with stealth cooler )
How much undervolt should i do for now? also thanks for the guide, ill remount.
Shop is decently far so i trying to solve it by myself, otherwise that will be last resort.
 
How much undervolt should i do for now? also thanks for the guide, ill remount.
This is NOT undervolting per-se, we just decreasing voltage to cpu and cpu soc and pbo/boosting disabled, for now.

I think the range 1v - 1.2v should be enough.
Anything above 1.35v that's too much and not worth it imo.
I think 1.1v constant on CPU and CPU-SOC should be enough.
If it fails to boot in windows with that voltage welp bios/CMOS reset back to bios disable fast/quick boot and change voltages to 1.2v
( Yes, a game of bit trial n error but that's only if it fails to boot into windows )

There are certain voltages below which it might not even boot into windows.
Remember there is also ram soc voltage don't touch it thinking it's cpu -soc voltage.
( I dropped 10C just when I turned down voltage from 1.3-1.35v to 1.175-1.25....
Though Further decrease in voltage didn't drop temp as much.
Right now I am using it at 0.8-0.85v cuz I don't use pc for gaming right now and it's a am5 cpu btw, so your mileage may vary. )
----------------
You haven't answered yet,
You got any thermal paste?
Which one is it?
Did u by any chance saw which thermal paste did they use?
 
Shop is decently far so i trying to solve it by myself, otherwise that will be last resort.
Totally get that the shop is far and you're trying to sort it out yourself first — that makes sense. But honestly, it’d be best if you try all the suggestions given by the other TechEnclave members as soon as possible, especially the remounting of the CPU cooler and maybe even reapplying a better quality thermal paste if you have access to one.
In many cases, just reseating the cooler properly can make a big difference.

That said, don’t delay too long before going back to the shop if things don’t get fixed — the longer you wait, the harder it might be to claim support. Shops sometimes get suspicious or uncooperative if too much time has passed, so if nothing works, make that visit your backup plan sooner rather than later.
 
You got any thermal paste?
Which one is it?
Did u by any chance saw which thermal paste did they use?
They used ant esports thermal paste.

So i took off the cooler, cleaned all the existing thermal paste from both cooler and processor.
and bought hm501 from a shop nearby (they had this only). tried my best to screw it properly.
After thermal paste change, it's running more stable than before. tho temps are kinda high but it's not shutting down like before. previously it got shut down within 2 min of 100% load, now it's toasty but running , atleast as of now.
 

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They used ant esports thermal paste.

So i took off the cooler, cleaned all the existing thermal paste from both cooler and processor.
and bought hm501 from a shop nearby (they had this only). tried my best to screw it properly.
After thermal paste change, it's running more stable than before. tho temps are kinda high but it's not shutting down like before. previously it got shut down within 2 min of 100% load, now it's toasty but running , atleast as of now.
this is why i had been asking about the thermal paste,
tldr it is shit paste for your/normal user purposes also it degrades too quickly that is why it is used for system testing by pc builders
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on positive side it seems good that it was probably cooler being loose.
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get a better thermal paste but before that i wanna ask, if you bought any other thermal paste other than the hm501
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but if shop from where you got pc offer some help get it first!
 
get a better thermal paste but before that i wanna ask, if you bought any other thermal paste other than the hm501
No, That's all they had, so got it. and after reading alot of reddit post, stock cooler ain't that great with it, so I'll probably get better one.

rn it's been a hour with 100% load, not once it got shut down but temp are 90-95. I'll see how it goes
 
They used ant esports thermal paste.

So i took off the cooler, cleaned all the existing thermal paste from both cooler and processor.
and bought hm501 from a shop nearby (they had this only). tried my best to screw it properly.
After thermal paste change, it's running more stable than before. tho temps are kinda high but it's not shutting down like before. previously it got shut down within 2 min of 100% load, now it's toasty but running , atleast as of now.
Does seem to be working better now as I can see it's boosting even at 95c (so it's thermal throttling but not by much). You can further lower the max temp by going to bios and setting a max limit for PPT, perhaps 70W will be fine. This might affect performance but your PC will not thermal throttle as much. This is until you can get a better thermal paste and aftermarket cooler.
 
I have the same processor. At idle on the Windows desktop, I have temps of about 40-45°C. I believe your cpu clearly has a mounting issue or the shop just used some really poor quality thermal paste. Likely what happened is the journey back home jerked the heatsink loose. Try to get it remounted.
I have used really cheap white thermal grease for ages my idle temperature without ac is around 45-50.
 
No, That's all they had, so got it. and after reading alot of reddit post, stock cooler ain't that great with it, so I'll probably get better one.

rn it's been a hour with 100% load, not once it got shut down but temp are 90-95. I'll see how it goes

Go to Power saving -> processor, limit processor max to 80% for the duration of current firgirl task as per your screenshot, you are on the edge of thermal shutdown. After the task you set processor state to default. For longer term: get any cooler with two heatpipes and noctua h1 or similar.
 
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It is a wraith stealth, how much better wraith prism is compared to it? as it comes with higher end cpus
My only reference is a 2700X (review sample purchased from a YouTuber and it was a very good overclocker ) with the Wraith Prism and it never reached the 90°C mark even at full load.

87~88°C is the highest I remember seeing.
 
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First of all thank you for everyone who helped me till now.
It's running much stable than before, i think i'll have to get better cooler to get any lower than that.

Here's what i've done if anyone in future stumble upon this , Firstly cleaned and repasted the cpu so any mounting issue get fixed , then lowered the max cpu voltage from 1.35 to 1.25.
After these the cpu is idling at 53-55 , outside temp is 42C rn so ig its ok.
Let me know if i should still take it to shop (i dont prefer it).

There's also some discrepancy between ryzen master temp and hwmonitor temp of around 4-5C. after some googling, it seems like ryzen master is more accurate.

Screenshot 2025-04-17 145353.png

And can someone enlighten me why if i cap cpu power state to 99% then max temp go like 75C while with 100% cpu cap it goes 90C.
1744885758262.png
 
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