1.5 Ton split AC purchase advice

LG in AC's? I might be completely wrong - but was not much happy with one product of LG that I had and hence decided to stay away from LG while buying the AC. But even when you go to AC shops the most common names are Voltas, OGeneral, Hitachi, Sharp, Mitsubishi Heavy Industry (not to be confused with Mitsubishi Electric), Panasonic and Daikin.
 
Can anyone help me choose one out the below? which one is better
1) Daikin FTKS50FVMA - 54400 INR
2) Daikin FTKD50FVM - 44000 INR
3) Panasonic
CS-S18PKY - 50000 INR
The Daikin FTKD uses R22 gas, the FTKS uses R410. R22 will be banned soon in India, so both in terms of the environment and future availability, its safer to stick to R410.
The Panasonic CS-S18 is the top of the line model with an ioniser. There's a CS-YS18 entry level model which is about 41K and a CS-TS18 which should be about 45k.
 
Can u please explain why is 1.5 Ton a overkill. Local dealer says 1.5T is needed and that 1 Ton models will take up more power.

A lesson in Heat exchange would be needed to explain it. If you do not want to waste money its enough, I am using a 1 ton Toshiba non inverter in a 10 x 17 room , and if occasion demands I do not even need to shut the door.

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buying a regular non inverter AC is akin to be a P4 today,
 
Well I would differ and disagree that smaller ACs are sufficient for bigger rooms. Even a basic AC would be sufficient for any room, but the issue is that the compressor would keep on running - thus increasing your electric consumption. Say if its around 180sq ft room and on ground floor or if there is any floor above your floor then a 1.5T AC is required but if there is direct sunlight and no floor above the floor then you need a 2T regular AC or a 1.5T Inverter AC. The difference being that the compressor will run for a lower time as it would cool the room faster, thus reducing power consumption. Other factors are the efficiency of the air conditioner, the distance between the main unit and outer unit (incase of split), ventilation / heat in the room, number of people in the room, whether room is opened quite often and so on. Though invert AC costing does not justify the extra money taken (if you use it only for say 2-3 hours a day) I think if each person tries their bit at saving electricity, its good for the country in the long run! Just a thought....
 
Well I would differ and disagree that smaller ACs are sufficient for bigger rooms. Even a basic AC would be sufficient for any room, but the issue is that the compressor would keep on running - thus increasing your electric consumption. Say if its around 180sq ft room and on ground floor or if there is any floor above your floor then a 1.5T AC is required but if there is direct sunlight and no floor above the floor then you need a 2T regular AC or a 1.5T Inverter AC. The difference being that the compressor will run for a lower time as it would cool the room faster, thus reducing power consumption. Other factors are the efficiency of the air conditioner, the distance between the main unit and outer unit (incase of split), ventilation / heat in the room, number of people in the room, whether room is opened quite often and so on. Though invert AC costing does not justify the extra money taken (if you use it only for say 2-3 hours a day) I think if each person tries their bit at saving electricity, its good for the country in the long run! Just a thought....

Going by this logic, one should buy the biggest ACs they can, the compressor will run less and we will save more money, and do our bit for ecology.

Anyways I do not know why we are bothering, The poster of the thread could not wait for any suggestions even though he was a first time buyer and has done what he thought was right.

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Would love to read a brief explanation regarding the topic.

A quick google search will reveal several AC capacity calculators. Some have explanations some don't. I have used these calculators extensively, and have yet to be disappointed. My findings in a nutshell, a one ton AC is good enough for a 200 sq ft room in the MOST ADVERSE weather conditions, PROVIDED, your windows and doors are well sealed to prevent airleaks. Most these days just stick in and AC without any regard for how much leakage of cold air is there. As I already mentioned, I have often run a 1 Ton Toshiba (1.1) actually in a 170 sq ft room, with the door open and the room temps have been below 25C. Inverters are designed to overload themselves for a short while to about 15-20% of their capacity, (which is why inverters cool a room much faster than a regular AC). It is this (air leak) calculation which one needs to take into account.

How many remember Aircon Installations about 30-35 years back when they came and felted all the windows and doors ? I remember we used to have a 1 ton Voltas Ac in a room that was 200+ sq ft, in Chennai, with nothing on the roof, except a terrace. We were happy with it. Yes, ALL the windows and doors were pretty much well sealed when shut. And yes, it had a 14-15' foot height too.


prtk Any electrical engineer will also point out, a motor running steadily is preffered to stop start, and every inverter also has a sweet spot at which level it will be at peak efficiency, (even Computer PSU's have this).
 
@TheIndian Going by this logic, one should buy the biggest ACs they can, the compressor will run less and we will save more money, and do our bit for ecology.
I never said buy the biggest AC for your room. What I said is based on the room dimensions you need some basic capacity for the AC to perform well else it will keep on running without the compressor getting shut down and cooling would not be that effective.

Air cooling depends on a number of factors and I already clarified in the post earlier that depending on the size of the room - sqft is not enough - you say 170sq ft - but air cooling is dependent on room volume. So you even need to consider the height of the room and how cool the room is before the AC is switched on. Say if your room is 30 degrees before AC then definitely you need to more capacity to cool the room, but say your room is 25degress before cooling it would cool faster.
I have not come across anyone using a 1T capacity for a large room like 170sqft, but as you said its cooling the room I believe you. But for my 190sqft room I had a 1.5T regular AC installed and had to remove that and get an inverter 1.5T to cool the room because with 1.5T the room would never cool! But the same AC on the ground floor 150sqft would cool the room which makes me believe what I am saying and I may be completely wrong - but thats what I have experienced with ACs
 
Sorry for disappearing there for a while.
Huge thanks to RishiGuru for providing the link. As many other said, my eyes too are open now. Bye bye Hitachi, Daikin. U dont get any of my money :bleh:

So i have narrowed down to 3 choices in the descending order of "quality+price"

1) LG BS-Q186C7M1 (If wallet allows, i d buy this)
2) Sharp AH-XP18MV (Safest bet, not hurting wallet too much)
3) Sharp AH-XP13NRV (this is a 1.1 Tonner. But if budget is low, i d consider this)
 
I never said buy the biggest AC for your room. What I said is based on the room dimensions you need some basic capacity for the AC to perform well else it will keep on running without the compressor getting shut down and cooling would not be that effective.

Air cooling depends on a number of factors and I already clarified in the post earlier that depending on the size of the room - sqft is not enough - you say 170sq ft - but air cooling is dependent on room volume. So you even need to consider the height of the room and how cool the room is before the AC is switched on. Say if your room is 30 degrees before AC then definitely you need to more capacity to cool the room, but say your room is 25degress before cooling it would cool faster.
I have not come across anyone using a 1T capacity for a large room like 170sqft, but as you said its cooling the room I believe you. But for my 190sqft room I had a 1.5T regular AC installed and had to remove that and get an inverter 1.5T to cool the room because with 1.5T the room would never cool! But the same AC on the ground floor 150sqft would cool the room which makes me believe what I am saying and I may be completely wrong - but thats what I have experienced with ACs

The present AC is in Mumbai nd yes Toshiba is one of the best if not the best. , and I seal my windows pretty tight. Maybe you missed the 35 yr old ac was in Chennai, you can't get more adverse then that. May I point out you did mention a larger will cool the room faster thereby saving money, what about the stop start ? You are right there are a lot of other factors, but no one mentions them in-spite of the endless threads where people keep asking for more details, well if one provides half information they will get a best guess answer to their question.

A 1.5 ton is more than enough for 180 sq ft, Since you say it was not enough, I am curious and would like to know the details of the AC you removed, and what did you replace it with ?
 
Sorry for disappearing there for a while.
Huge thanks to Rishiguru for providing the other link. As many other said, my eyes too are open now. Bye bye Hitachi, Daikin. U dont get any of my money :bleh:

So i have narrowed down to 3 choices in the descending order of "quality+price"

1) LG BS-Q186C7M1 (If wallet allows, i d buy this)
2) Sharp AH-XP18MV (Safest bet, not hurting wallet too much)
3) Sharp AH-XP13NRV (this is a 1.1 Tonner. But if budget is low, i d consider this)

Just need one final answer before i go ahead with purchase. I saw that LG IDU goes as low as 29db. For Sharp AH XP18MV, Indian site shows 39db while Malaysian site shows 44db. Which one do u think is correct? Also, since u own this, how is the sound from both IDU and ODU?

Also plz lemme know if there is a display on Sharp models to see the temperature.

Do note that the LG model cited by you is not a 2013 model, but a 2012 model. You can either try for a good bargain on this model or go for the 2013 model.

The prices of 2013 LG inverter models have come down to sane levels- BSQ186C8R2 (cooling only) has a MRP of Rs 50,490 on LG India website. There is another less-priced 2013 model- BSQ186C4A1. You may download LG's 2013 AC range catalogue from LG India website for further details.
 
A 1.5 ton is more than enough for 180 sq ft, Since you say it was not enough, I am curious and would like to know the details of the AC you removed, and what did you replace it with ?

It was a regular 1.5T Split AC before and I replaced it with a 1.5T Sharp Inverter AC. I had 3 company technical teams visit my location and all said the same thing - if you use a regular AC for this room you will need a 2T AC or you need to buy a 1.5T Inverter AC. They have a Room volume calculator and based on that they suggested that if I use a 1.5T AC for the room two things - one it will run longer and two it will cool the room slower. Thats exactly what was happening. Now with the inverter AC the room cools faster and I need to run it for less time.
 
Do note that the LG model cited by you is not a 2013 model, but a 2012 model. You can either try for a good bargain on this model or go for the 2013 model.

The prices of 2013 LG inverter models have come down to sane levels- BSQ186C8R2 (cooling only) has a MRP of Rs 50,490 on LG India website. There is another less-priced 2013 model- BSQ186C4A1. You may download LG's 2013 AC range catalogue from LG India website for further details.

Thanks Chiranjib. Below is the comparision between those 2 models. Outdoor unit's weight is reduced by 4kg. Does that mean LG has used different materials in new model?
View attachment 19125
 
Thanks Chiranjib. Below is the comparision between those 2 models. Outdoor unit's weight is reduced by 4kg. Does that mean LG has used different materials in new model?
View attachment 19125
Well, if you observe, the size of the ODU remains the same. So, I assume that there is no difference in the build. The power consumption has also come down by around 100W to 1470W in the 2013 model. My hunch is that it is a different compressor (better one in terms of power consumption) that LG has put in the 2013 model and that is probably contributing to the 4kg reduction in weight. The possibility of using different sheet metal, condensor, etc.in the ODU,though exists.
 
Can somebody point me to a good capacity/tonnage calculator for air conditioners? Is it really true that a smaller tonnage inverter a.c. can cool the same area as a larger tonnage normal split a.c.?
 
Posting this from another forum, for reference:
Thanks RishiGuru :)


Quote:
Originally Posted by maheeinfy
1) Any suggestions for a stabiliser. In my area, voltage is usually stable. So i wont need a heavy duty one. I m currently considering V-Guard VD 500.

"In Kolkata we do not require any stabilizer since the voltage is quite decent throughout the year. I believe your V-Guard VD 500 will do the duty fine for a 1.5 Ton Inverter."

Quote:
Originally Posted by maheeinfy
2) Any thing i need to look out for while purchasing Installation kit and Brackets

"My Sharp AH-XP18MV, 1.5 Ton Inverters costs INR 41K and came with one of the best free installation kits available.
The free installation kit had an MRP of INR 3.25K and consisted of:
1) 4m Copper Tubes for both gas and liquid side of class leading 0.8mm wall thickness
2) 4m XPE insulation for both gas and liquid side tubes of white color which reflect heat
3) 4m 4 core electric copper cables to connect IDU with ODU
4) 4m drain pipe
5) Surgical gloves to be used by installers. Our installer was very happy to see that at least one company in India is including this with their kits.
6) Cleaning cloth
7) Packaging box that contain all of the above accessories.

I believe you have to spend atleast in the range of INR 2.8K to have anything close to it. Make sure the aftermarket copper tubes are atleast 0.7 mm wall thickness and are of required length.

Your LG (Model No.BS-Q186C8R2) 1.5 Ton Inverter costs INR 43.6K without installation kit, so if they have included a kit as good as Sharp’s it would have definitely spiraled up to INR 46.5K."

Quote:
Originally Posted by maheeinfy
3) During installation, what should I do to ensure the process is clean and done right?


"Look for qualified installers in your place. Make sure the pipes do not bend a lot, so that there is a clean flow without any obstruction."
 
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