Building a Mechanical Keyboard from scratch - Planck 40%

SunnyBoi

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Staff member
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Lately I have gotten into a new hobby of fiddling with mechanical keyboards. It all started with me fixing a TVS Gold that was handed to me. It soon developed into fixing more keyboards and improve them.

I had the initial reservation that anything less than a full size keyboard with 104 keys or at the worst case, a TKL is just a gimmick. It just looks good and saves space while not offering any benefits. Oh how wrong was I.

This is when I bought an Ajazz AK33. A compact keyboard with almost all keys as of a TKL. It was great!

Ls79WSK.jpg


I then attempted to swap out the switches with Gateron Yellows and I ended up killing the keyboard. Danggit.

Fast forward couple of months and I got myself a Tartan 60% keyboard kit. I was still reeling with the loss of the Ajazz so I got most of the components soldered onto the PCB before I received it. I got the kit, assembled and soldered in the switches. The keyboard felt great! The lack of arrow keys was a bit irritating to begin with but I got adjusted to using layers.

H4H3SZb.jpg


Once I found some confidence in soldering keyboards, I attempted to resurrect the broken Ajazz by doing a handwired build. I bought a bunch of diodes locally and arduino Pro Micros from BM-ES. Each cost 345rs and they had free shipping for orders over 1000rs. So I ended up purchasing 3 of them instead of one to save on shipping! Penny wise pound foolish eh? . It went surprisingly well and everything worked on the first attempt!

kRwja9o.jpg


Wow, who knew handwiring a keyboard will be so easy? (or so I thought...read more to find out)

So, one of the pro micros was used up on the Ajazz and I was left with two more. This gave me an idea to make more handwired keyboards. But what should I do next?

The answer came with this video


This made a lot of sense to me. By this time, I had got pretty used to the Tartan and its layers, so much so that I was not missing the arrow keys by much. The decision was taken - my next keyboard would be a Planck.

As always, the first step to making a handwired keyboard is to make a plate. I first wanted to go with a brass switch plate however it was incredibly difficult to get someone with a laser cutter and would be able to cut metal.

After looking around fior a while, I gave up. Next best option was to get an acrylic plate done. I found another person who wanted a custom keyboard cut out of acrylic, we bundled our orders together. Soon, the laser cutter got laser cutting

alm4G6c.jpg


Soon, I have a few blank planck switchplates to play with!

eOD1qFq.jpg


Next step was to prepare switches - I went with a combination of Gateron Milky Yellow and Clear Yellow switches. As usual, the switches were opened up for lubing

dwJZfnk.jpg


Fixed a pair of costar stabilisers and temporary stands

u3pW6rZ.jpg


Now, for the case. My plan is to do a wooden case for it. However that would take time. Coincidentally, I found a scrap piece of acrylic which was almost the same size as the planck!

o8CeSmG.jpg


Lil' bit of chopping on the sides, mark and tap holes for standoffs. The base is ready.

Ujyh9MF.jpg


Yup they fit. looks half decent too

mxOae7L.jpg


Switches added and glued on so they don't pop back out

XYHbo9v.jpg


Next step was to add the backlight. Yay it works!

3ig0Lwa.jpg


T4x6gxs.jpg


Next was soldering diodes to the rows. I've been trying to keep the soldered lines very compact and I think I've been doing a good job at it!

P2j3Znw.jpg


For the columns, I wanted to try something different and use enamelled wire. The enamelled wire are used for motor and transformer coils; unfortunately I had the thickest ones arund 1.1mm thick. I had to file off the enamel to make electrical contact too.

NKMuouS.jpg


Soldering those thick enamelled wires was pure T O R T U R E. This clearly was a bad idea. But hey, they look good!

qPGhUMa.jpg


Pro Micro's been flashed and soldered! The keyboard is all done right?

sCGrktk.jpg


I was in for a rude shock. I faced multiple keys not working, primarily because of the enamelled wires and the difficulty soldering on them. When I thought I had fixed them all, the keys still did not work. Heck, couple of keys didn't work at all.Press some keys, same keys from same row but different column also get activated. Replaced the dead switches, which by themselves were a right pain and I still had problems. I was borrowing the micro USB from my parent's charger so got a differnt cable. Connect it to the pro micro and I get a warning which says USB power exceeded! Now, one of the ICs on the pro micro is getting ridiculously hot, change back to the original cable and still no change. Pro micro is dead.

What the **** is happening here?

I then took some time off. I gave more thought on how I have built the diode array for the rows. I realised how I had messed up with the circuitry - no wonder the keys wouldn't work. I took a deep look into the LED backlight array and it was clear I had screwed up on that front too. Dammit.

Kept the keyboard aside and took a break.

This is when I decided to start from scratch.

First step for the second attempt was take off all sketchy or problematic circuits. Removed the enamelled wires, diode array and the LED resistor array too. I retained the negative array for the backlight because apparently that is the only one good thing I did in my first attempt. Ugh.

o01G8xf.jpg


Next wa the reistor array for the backlighting. I found soldering one leg into each LED leg then jopining them together worked better. They were slightly wider than the earlier attempt but hey this time its been soldered right.

bNZ0WvS.jpg


vkJhZt1.jpg


Next was the diode row array. Funnily enough, I used the same principle for the diode array as it was similar.

qzRhUaW.jpg


Last item on the agenda was to solder back the the columns. I went for regular jumper wires and they worked really well, as they had done with my previous handwired keyboard.

l7cJIDi.jpg


With the main array done, the focus was on how to solder and fix the pro micro to the keyboard while not disturbing any wires or solder connections underneath. I had to mount the pro micro onto the keyboard rigidly but without it having touching the circuit underneath.

I found the solution with a 6mm nylon M3 spacer I had lying around. This was the perfect height to prop up the pro micro! So I fevi quikked two of them in the center

aqeZSJ1.jpg


I next needed a rigid piece which can be fixed to the standoffs and to which I can fix the pro micro. I had 3mm acrylic pieces but they would just add to the thichness of the keybopard. I found the answer thanks to Mukesh bhai.

QTx0NZk.jpg


Cut a strip off and glue it again to the top of the standoffs. Woohoo they now clear everything!

Kmp92Vk.jpg


Thankfully I had one spare pro micro lying around. I did not want to screw it up and so I bought some right angle connectors, soldered them on the pro micro, bought another set of ribbon cables, soldred the column/row/backlight wires while making sure I retain a connector in each of them. Incase the pro micro had to come off.

vIPnMrc.jpg


I gotta admit - the end result is solid but too thick. But hey, it works right?

qf5BIut.jpg


WRONG. one switch is now dead and needs swapping out. Urggggh. This wasn't the case before and why did it have to die now?

Oh well the show must go on. Took out the switch

uDRzl2h.jpg


...and soldered a new one on.

Does it work? Yes! Finally, all keys work!

xToeLz9.jpg


My god the backlight is so strong, I look into the keyboard for couple of seconds without keycaps and I am temporarily blinded for a few seconds. Thankfully the backlight control works and I can adjust the brightness.

Add a set of keycaps, screw in the base and I'm done. Phew. Hey it looks good though!

2KvOLvR.jpg


The standoffs I used for the base were juust right.

vl6i2EE.jpg


These keycaps aren't doubleshot/allow backlighting but they still looked decent.

FVirkjx.jpg


qCnU3ST.jpg


Finally, all my custom keyboards - Handwired Ajazz AK33, Tartan 60% and the Planck in decreasing order of size.

W03DIcN.jpg


I finished this keyboard in the last week of january, why am I posting the log only now? The truth is, shifting to a small ortholinear keyboard was ridiculously difficult for me and I am not even a touch typist. I used the Planck on and off in the first month with the Tartan being used for over 90% of the time. I struggled a LOT whenever I had to input number or passwords.

One of the days, dad managed to hose down the PC. Don't ask me how. The tartan got completely soaked and so I replaced it with the Planck. By this time I had decided to stick with the Planck and see how it goes. Two weeks down, I am pretty comfortable with this keyboard now and it feels good. In fact I have typed this whole log exclusively on the Planck! This keyboard was a major pain to make but it taught me a lot of things on building keyboards and I am more wiser, which by itself is worth as far as I'm concerned.
 
Great stuff.

First of all thanks. This shows .. these guys can be repaired.

I messed up my motospeed(104) while trying to replace a switch. The PCB is burnt and looks like handwiring is needed. (Consider my expertise and knowledge 0.5 on a scale-10 ) . At present I've moved the keycaps and reprogrammed the key bindings. But miss the old location of '=/+' , '[' and ']' keys.

Wish you were in Delhi. Would have shown the keyboard to you. You would have helped fix it .
 
I messed up my motospeed(104) while trying to replace a switch. The PCB is burnt and looks like handwiring is needed. (Consider my expertise and knowledge 0.5 on a scale-10 ) . At present I've moved the keycaps and reprogrammed the key bindings. But miss the old location of '=/+' , '[' and ']' keys.

Wish you were in Delhi. Would have shown the keyboard to you. You would have helped fix it .
To be honest any basic electronics repairing guy can fix it. Worst case find someone who fixes mobile phones, they should be plenty of them...as long as you explain which keys don't work, they can easily trace back and add wires to make the dead keys work again
 
Anyone has good quality (thick) spare o rings? I must have a set. I have to type a lot and prefer doing it at night but the sound is unbearable and I get headache while typing fast on my reds. Ordered a set from Ali right before Corona but it was never delivered. Please help me.
 
Good to see that you've made it into a hobby.
You helped me lube my mechanical motospeed (CK104) with outemu switches, that's the original thread when you lubed your TVS golds.
My KB is still going strong and typing feels butter smooth even after like 6 months of so.
 
Lately I have gotten into a new hobby of fiddling with mechanical keyboards. It all started with me fixing a TVS Gold that was handed to me. It soon developed into fixing more keyboards and improve them.

I had the initial reservation that anything less than a full size keyboard with 104 keys or at the worst case, a TKL is just a gimmick. It just looks good and saves space while not offering any benefits. Oh how wrong was I.

This is when I bought an Ajazz AK33. A compact keyboard with almost all keys as of a TKL. It was great!

Ls79WSK.jpg


I then attempted to swap out the switches with Gateron Yellows and I ended up killing the keyboard. Danggit.

Fast forward couple of months and I got myself a Tartan 60% keyboard kit. I was still reeling with the loss of the Ajazz so I got most of the components soldered onto the PCB before I received it. I got the kit, assembled and soldered in the switches. The keyboard felt great! The lack of arrow keys was a bit irritating to begin with but I got adjusted to using layers.

H4H3SZb.jpg


Once I found some confidence in soldering keyboards, I attempted to resurrect the broken Ajazz by doing a handwired build. I bought a bunch of diodes locally and arduino Pro Micros from BM-ES. Each cost 345rs and they had free shipping for orders over 1000rs. So I ended up purchasing 3 of them instead of one to save on shipping! Penny wise pound foolish eh? . It went surprisingly well and everything worked on the first attempt!

kRwja9o.jpg


Wow, who knew handwiring a keyboard will be so easy? (or so I thought...read more to find out)

So, one of the pro micros was used up on the Ajazz and I was left with two more. This gave me an idea to make more handwired keyboards. But what should I do next?

The answer came with this video


This made a lot of sense to me. By this time, I had got pretty used to the Tartan and its layers, so much so that I was not missing the arrow keys by much. The decision was taken - my next keyboard would be a Planck.

As always, the first step to making a handwired keyboard is to make a plate. I first wanted to go with a brass switch plate however it was incredibly difficult to get someone with a laser cutter and would be able to cut metal.

After looking around fior a while, I gave up. Next best option was to get an acrylic plate done. I found another person who wanted a custom keyboard cut out of acrylic, we bundled our orders together. Soon, the laser cutter got laser cutting

alm4G6c.jpg


Soon, I have a few blank planck switchplates to play with!

eOD1qFq.jpg


Next step was to prepare switches - I went with a combination of Gateron Milky Yellow and Clear Yellow switches. As usual, the switches were opened up for lubing

dwJZfnk.jpg


Fixed a pair of costar stabilisers and temporary stands

u3pW6rZ.jpg


Now, for the case. My plan is to do a wooden case for it. However that would take time. Coincidentally, I found a scrap piece of acrylic which was almost the same size as the planck!

o8CeSmG.jpg


Lil' bit of chopping on the sides, mark and tap holes for standoffs. The base is ready.

Ujyh9MF.jpg


Yup they fit. looks half decent too

mxOae7L.jpg


Switches added and glued on so they don't pop back out

XYHbo9v.jpg


Next step was to add the backlight. Yay it works!

3ig0Lwa.jpg


T4x6gxs.jpg


Next was soldering diodes to the rows. I've been trying to keep the soldered lines very compact and I think I've been doing a good job at it!

P2j3Znw.jpg


For the columns, I wanted to try something different and use enamelled wire. The enamelled wire are used for motor and transformer coils; unfortunately I had the thickest ones arund 1.1mm thick. I had to file off the enamel to make electrical contact too.

NKMuouS.jpg


Soldering those thick enamelled wires was pure T O R T U R E. This clearly was a bad idea. But hey, they look good!

qPGhUMa.jpg


Pro Micro's been flashed and soldered! The keyboard is all done right?

sCGrktk.jpg


I was in for a rude shock. I faced multiple keys not working, primarily because of the enamelled wires and the difficulty soldering on them. When I thought I had fixed them all, the keys still did not work. Heck, couple of keys didn't work at all.Press some keys, same keys from same row but different column also get activated. Replaced the dead switches, which by themselves were a right pain and I still had problems. I was borrowing the micro USB from my parent's charger so got a differnt cable. Connect it to the pro micro and I get a warning which says USB power exceeded! Now, one of the ICs on the pro micro is getting ridiculously hot, change back to the original cable and still no change. Pro micro is dead.

What the **** is happening here?

I then took some time off. I gave more thought on how I have built the diode array for the rows. I realised how I had messed up with the circuitry - no wonder the keys wouldn't work. I took a deep look into the LED backlight array and it was clear I had screwed up on that front too. Dammit.

Kept the keyboard aside and took a break.

This is when I decided to start from scratch.

First step for the second attempt was take off all sketchy or problematic circuits. Removed the enamelled wires, diode array and the LED resistor array too. I retained the negative array for the backlight because apparently that is the only one good thing I did in my first attempt. Ugh.

o01G8xf.jpg


Next wa the reistor array for the backlighting. I found soldering one leg into each LED leg then jopining them together worked better. They were slightly wider than the earlier attempt but hey this time its been soldered right.

bNZ0WvS.jpg


vkJhZt1.jpg


Next was the diode row array. Funnily enough, I used the same principle for the diode array as it was similar.

qzRhUaW.jpg


Last item on the agenda was to solder back the the columns. I went for regular jumper wires and they worked really well, as they had done with my previous handwired keyboard.

l7cJIDi.jpg


With the main array done, the focus was on how to solder and fix the pro micro to the keyboard while not disturbing any wires or solder connections underneath. I had to mount the pro micro onto the keyboard rigidly but without it having touching the circuit underneath.

I found the solution with a 6mm nylon M3 spacer I had lying around. This was the perfect height to prop up the pro micro! So I fevi quikked two of them in the center

aqeZSJ1.jpg


I next needed a rigid piece which can be fixed to the standoffs and to which I can fix the pro micro. I had 3mm acrylic pieces but they would just add to the thichness of the keybopard. I found the answer thanks to Mukesh bhai.

QTx0NZk.jpg


Cut a strip off and glue it again to the top of the standoffs. Woohoo they now clear everything!

Kmp92Vk.jpg


Thankfully I had one spare pro micro lying around. I did not want to screw it up and so I bought some right angle connectors, soldered them on the pro micro, bought another set of ribbon cables, soldred the column/row/backlight wires while making sure I retain a connector in each of them. Incase the pro micro had to come off.

vIPnMrc.jpg


I gotta admit - the end result is solid but too thick. But hey, it works right?

qf5BIut.jpg


WRONG. one switch is now dead and needs swapping out. Urggggh. This wasn't the case before and why did it have to die now?

Oh well the show must go on. Took out the switch

uDRzl2h.jpg


...and soldered a new one on.

Does it work? Yes! Finally, all keys work!

xToeLz9.jpg


My god the backlight is so strong, I look into the keyboard for couple of seconds without keycaps and I am temporarily blinded for a few seconds. Thankfully the backlight control works and I can adjust the brightness.

Add a set of keycaps, screw in the base and I'm done. Phew. Hey it looks good though!

2KvOLvR.jpg


The standoffs I used for the base were juust right.

vl6i2EE.jpg


These keycaps aren't doubleshot/allow backlighting but they still looked decent.

FVirkjx.jpg


qCnU3ST.jpg


Finally, all my custom keyboards - Handwired Ajazz AK33, Tartan 60% and the Planck in decreasing order of size.

W03DIcN.jpg


I finished this keyboard in the last week of january, why am I posting the log only now? The truth is, shifting to a small ortholinear keyboard was ridiculously difficult for me and I am not even a touch typist. I used the Planck on and off in the first month with the Tartan being used for over 90% of the time. I struggled a LOT whenever I had to input number or passwords.

One of the days, dad managed to hose down the PC. Don't ask me how. The tartan got completely soaked and so I replaced it with the Planck. By this time I had decided to stick with the Planck and see how it goes. Two weeks down, I am pretty comfortable with this keyboard now and it feels good. In fact I have typed this whole log exclusively on the Planck! This keyboard was a major pain to make but it taught me a lot of things on building keyboards and I am more wiser, which by itself is worth as far as I'm concerned.
I really love this kind of content on TE.So much to learn here
 
Sometime back I received a package from the USA and it had the proper keycaps for the Planck!

UnDlZMd.jpg


My plan is to do a wooden case for it. However that would take time.

Given how the pandemic is raging again, I have dropped plans for a wooden case. I might take it up in the distant future though.

The biggest problem with my Planck was the case or rather lack of it. the entire thing was too high and made it somewhat uncomfortable to use.

Hence, I decided to redo the mounting and add a decent angle to the keyboard. Added a reset button to the top left whenever I need to flash the firmware.

To keep things simple, I just wrapped the edges with masking tape and trimmed the edges, Yes it looks weird but its better this way than having dust etc get inside

mjkJdTN.jpg


jZXnJAh.jpg


TTgtwWu.jpg


yYhrUUG.jpg


xVcQv0j.jpg


qT01Rjr.jpg


5cAIWhQ.jpg


o2kIcKW.jpg


It is really hard to convey how small this keyboard is, I can completely hold it in my palm!

LFVF6tj.jpg


Finally here is a long overdue typing test :

 
Few things have changed since my last post - I sold off my Planck. I entered this phase where I was just bored of linear switches and I've been selling off all switches and keyboards that had them.

After a while, I began to miss the ortho typing experience. I had bought parts to build an ErgoDash, a split keyboard. While getting the cases laser cut, I got a preonic plate laser cut too.

What is a preonic? Its just a Planck with an extra number row on top which should make life easier if you have to type a lot of numbers in your workflow. Since I had already built a Planck before, decided to go with a Preonic this time.

I'll be using my batch of Gateron Brown switches which I've lubed and swapped the springs to 55g ones from Gateron Yellows. I'm bored of white LEDs for backlight, will go with amber this time.

ErgoDash and the preonic plate, plus a spare Planck plate

hUPlriz.jpg


The first step was to clip the switches and fix them onto the laser cut plate

AYPNSSW.jpg


My usual workflow was Solder the LED negative first, LED positive with resistors, diode array and finally columns. However I realised snaking wires through the resistors and diodes was also painful and occasionally broke solder joints which caused more rework.

This time I soldered the LED legs first, columns second with resistors third and finally the diode array. Instead of fiddling with wires, marking and snipping insulation for the columns, I skinned off the copper from some wires and used heatshrink as insulation. This worked much better!

0fDUuMF.jpg


Columns completed

JrfOrSf.jpg


Resistors done

Vs6vUAR.jpg


3/5 diode arrays done. Forgot to take a picture with all completed

FI456dV.jpg


Time to prep the pro micro. Flashed the controller and tested it with tweezers, the right key was registering.

1wN1h97.jpg


I made the base this time with 1mm aluminium sheet. I've cut it myself with an angle grinder and hasn't come out straight. Oh well

GyAlunR.jpg


n9il4B4.jpg


With the position of the pro micro finalised, I soldered it in. This time I will be fixing the pro micro and the transistor on the base instead of on the PCB on the Planck.

lPYZnl3.jpg


Everything worked on the first try! YAY!

DkopKZt.jpg


jpatkLg.jpg


I wanted to use the keycaps from the TVS on these, unfortunately I have the older thick TVS caps, they would interfere with the switches on the bottom two rows. Sigh. The only other option was to use the miami keycaps on these. But they, they look awesome too!

DjqoMd6.jpg


All done!

dWJUyhp.jpg
 
Probably the silliest question to ask: what kind of a double sided tape did you use to place the pro micro? Looks like a normal foam double sided and an electrical tape on top of that? I've been looking for a thin, decently strong DS tape for long. 3M has some bonding tape but that's super strong I think
 
what kind of a double sided tape did you use to place the pro micro?
Its the regular 3M double sided tape, this one :


Its two layers of double sided tape with a plastic strip in between. This gives me the exact height needed for the pro micro to not touvh the aluminium and get shorted while being as low as possible.

3M has some bonding tape but that's super strong I think
3M VHB, its super overkill and used only if you want stuff to be bonded permanently.
 
Hello, I would like to know which file you used for the 40% Planck for the laser cutter. Did you source that from OLKB's GitHub? I am confused as there are several of them over there. Also tell me where to find a suitable laser cutting service who can work with the given files and the cost.
 
Hey buddy where did you get the the custom acryllic cut from? I recently also built a split keeb and would like to get an acryllic case for it.
 
Hey buddy where did you get the the custom acryllic cut from? I recently also built a split keeb and would like to get an acryllic case for it.
I have a very good laser cutter local to me. It might be a coincidence but I'm getting a few more split keeb plates cut today from him.
 
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