User Guides Easily create PCB's

This tutorial will show you how to create simple single layer PCB's at home without any hassle :hap2:
[BREAK=Introduction]
Being an IT guy it is sometimes difficult to get involved into projects that involve hardware and circuits. Most people buy standard development boards, use bread boards for the circuits or spend hours soldering it. Being such a guy I was in a fix as the development boards did not solve my purpose, wires on the bread board kept coming out and I am very bad at soldering (my circuit was pretty big too). One of my electronics friends suggested me this awesome method of creating custom printed circuit boards (PCB’s) at home without much hassle. So here goes my first tutorial.

Prerequisites
1. Ability to make circuits on bread board.
2. Little experience with soldering.
3. A bit of drilling experience will help.

Components/Software’s required (Refer to the respective section for pictures)
1. PCB designing software (here we will use Diptrace).
2. Your circuit (of course).
3. Glossy paper (ones used for printing photos).
4. Copper board.
5. Drill with .5mm bit.
6. Ferric Chloride (FeCl3) liquid.
7. Normal iron that is used for ironing clothes.
8. Nail polish remover/thinner/turpentine oil.
9. Tape
[BREAK=Downloading and installing Diptrace]
Download and install the Diptrace freeware version with libraries from http://www.diptrace.com/downloads/dipfree_en.exe

We will not be dwelling much into the software as this tutorial is about how to create the PCB from the design. You can refer to Diptrace help and read this tutorial on how to create the design. http://www.diptrace.com/books/tutorial.pdf

The standard libraries will take into account almost all the components you will ever require. Do the following steps. Refer the above tutorial on how to do the same.

1. Open the schematic.
2. Place your components and do the necessary connections.
3. Press Ctrl+B to open the PCB layout.

Once the layout is in front of you do the following

1. Select Route-> Route Setup
2. From the template select .5mm (you can also select larger if your circuit is simple but selecting anything lesser might not give proper results).
3. Change other values corresponding to the following and select OK.
View attachment 4451
4. Select Route->Autorouter Setup and select the following (you can increase the “number of options” and “number of optimizations” for better results but it will take more time while routing). Select OK.
View attachment 4453
5. Click on Route->Run Autorouter or press F9.
6. Wait for the auto routing to complete.

If there are no errors then you should have a design in front of you. If you are dissatisfied with the results then simply rotate the components and do the process again till you get good results.
For larger circuits it may take some tries to get the job done properly. If the router is not able to create a perfect PCB then you can create some pads and connect them later with wires but make sure that there are not many wires. Again designing would be a different tutorial itself hence I will not get into more detail. Refer to the help and the guide of Diptrace to learn how to create perfect PCB’s.

Note: Diptrace is just one of the software. There are many more such as OrCAD, Altium etc. You can use any one to design your PCB.

Now towards part 2
[BREAK=Printing]
The print will be taken on a glossy paper from a laser printer. We choose laser printer because the toner ink can be easily transferred to the copper board. Since I do not have a laser printer, I had to get one from a local cybercafé (I had to ask him to install the software). You can also try offices or school/colleges.

From Diptrace select File->Preview and select the following
Make sure that you select print scale as 100% otherwise the size of the components will not be equal to the one on the print.

View attachment 4452
Take a test print on a normal paper (for this even an inkjet will do) and verify the size on ICs’ on the print is same as that of the actual IC by simply placing the IC on the print.

Now insert the glossy paper such that the print comes on the glossy side and select print from a laser printer. Once the print out has been taken it should look like this.
View attachment 4467
Fit the IC’s and verify that the size of the components in the print is same as the actual size.

Note: You might have noticed the save option that saves the PCB as a bmp or jpg. You can also save it and then take the print of the image, however I was not able to bring it to scale (i.e. size of the IC’s were not same on the print). If saving works for you then you will not have to install the software on the PC connected to the laser printer.

Now that printing is done, we move to part 3
[BREAK=Transferring the image on to the copper board]
35i9gn7.jpg

1. Switch ON the iron and wait for it to heat.
2. Put on some gloves if possible so that you do not burn your hands later on.
3. Cut the glossy paper to the size of the copper board.
4. Dip the glossy paper once for 2-3 seconds in water, quickly take it out (dipping in water optional) and put the printed face down on the copper board.
5. Press the paper with your hand to remove any air bubbles between the copper board and the paper.
6. Tape the four corners of the paper to the copper board.
7. Place the copper board on a flat surface.
View attachment 4470
8. Take the hot iron and press it on the paper. Keep ironing for about 4-5 minutes. If the paper gets dry before you start ironing then sprinkle a little water on it and start ironing.
9. CAUTION: DO NOT TOUCH THE COPPER BOARD AS IT IS GOING TO BE VERY HOT.
10. Wait 5-10 minutes for the copper to cool down.
11. Dip the copper board with the paper taped to it in a bucket of water.
12. Gently rub it and remove all of the paper.
13. You will notice that all the tracks and pads have been transferred to the copper board.

Note: If you want to add anything else like a logo or your name, simply use a black permanent marker to write on the copper board. Write over and over again so that the ink of the marker becomes permanent.
You can also use the marker to write on top of the tracks that you think have not come properly

Now for part 4
[BREAK=Etching]
View attachment 4464
1. Take the Ferric Chloride (FeCl3) liquid and pour it in a container big enough to hold the copper board completely (use some Tiffin box or so). The container should be made of only plastic or glass. Do not use metal container because Ferric Chloride will react with it.
View attachment 4473
2. Dip the board completely in the ferric chloride liquid and leave it for 45 minutes.
3. Take the board out and wash it with water, you should only see a plastic base with the toner ink on top like this. If there is any copper remaining then immerse the board in FeCl3 again and leave for another 10 mins.
4. Once you have the board with only toner ink then take some thinner/nail polish remover/turpentine oil, pour it in cotton and rub the board with it to remove the ink and get only copper tracks and pads.
View attachment 4469

Note: If you find FeCl3 powder then also the procedure will work by mixing the powder with water in a specific proportion.

You can check the continuity of tracks using a multimeter. If there are some tracks that are not continuous or not satisfactory, then you can simply put a drop of solder over that point.

Now for the last part
[BREAK=Drilling and Soldering]
View attachment 4463
1. Take a drill with bit of .5mm or so (make sure that it is no thicker than the pads) and drill all the pads of the PCB.
2. Place your components or holders.
3. Solder the bases of the holders/components to the tracks and you are done.
2iihpuq.jpg

2vbpt8l.jpg


Note: Be careful while drilling, even though the bit is quite strong it may break upon constant usage.

[BREAK=Pricelist]
Pricelist
I got all my components from Lajpat Rai Market in Delhi. Other people will easily find them in the local electrical market. Ferric Chloride can be obtained from any chemical store. Here is the approximate price list.
1. Copper Board : Rs 50 / board
2. Glossy paper : Rs 10/paper
3. FeCl3 liquid : Rs 165/liter (it may be cheaper)
4. Manual Drill with bit : <Rs 50
5. Thinner/Nail polish remover/Turpentine oil : Rs 12/Rs 35/Rs 40 respectively
6. Printing charges: Re 1/print
[BREAK=Concluding Remarks]
First of all I would like to thank my friend for explaining this procedure to me. I am not a PCB wiz and there may be many methods better than this, I just found this one the easiest. If there are any such tutorials on the internet I have not seen them and thus have not added any references. Any other comments, suggestions, criticisms or additions will be highly appreciated.
Good luck with your PCB.
 

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anyone who's earned a B.Tech in electronics is supposed to know this , but few actually care to learn :rofl:

I've designed my PCB's using orcad, but didnt do the actual etching myself :ashamed:
 
Am a CS folk, however I have dipped my hand at many times for Power supplies in electronics, am conversant with 317 and other such power stuff. I wont call myself anywhere good with electronics but do find IC similar to libraries. Said that had asked many folks and finally got answer from you. Repped!

~LT
 
There are other ways too. But mainly the task involves transferring the image to the board. I had heard of other ways (some involving negatives) from my friends in ECE but I never actually thought it would be that easy.

I also intend to add a few more pics that I could not take. Will add them in a couple of days when I make my next PCB.

Electronics people will know lot better than me so if there is any suggestion/criticism you would like to give, kindly do so. It will only help me learn.
 
Good tut, repped. I can't resist adding my two bits, so here goes.

The art of making PCBs is a little more than laying out traces and etching the board. Layout is usually critical to circuit performance, as is the grounding pattern, addition of ground planes, and trace separation to reduce interference, cross-talk and inductive coupling. I addition trace widths have to be carefully considered keeping in mind the current requirements of each trace and termination.

The tut left out the mention of solder masking, tinning and screen printing. All the three are usually seen on commercial PCBs, but are not easy or safe to do at home. You do get commercial tinning products, but those may be unsafe due to chemical composition.

The example PCB is a decent starting point for experimenting - a fan controller would be very easy to build, as would a 12V supply for CCFLs and fans, using this kind of a circuit.

Speaking for myself, I don't use PCBs for the bits I build myself, preferring ratsnest or perfboards. HF performance can be controlled by judicious wiring, but for true HF performance into 10MHz+ you need a proper PCB and SMDs anyway, where home techniques literally take a nosedive.
 
Thanks for your suggestions, a few more points I would like to mention. Trace width is important. In this tutorial I have used it as .5mm that can do almost every task. Naturally the layout will come very nicely if you reduce the trace width but this procedure does not ensure that the traces will be transferred to the board. Using larger track width will result in a messy PCB with lots of jumpers.

You can try experimenting with it in route setup to see with the one that best suits you.

Also this procedure will work for single layer PCB's, I cannot say about more. But like sangram said, making a professional PCB invloves lots more processes.
 
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