I just bought myself a Fz35 2 days back.... since then I have taken 1000+:huh: shots using different settings but I couldn't take a good pic as of now.... all the pics taken by me had lots of noise and looked like an ordinary pic... Infact my sony mobile 2 mp cam gives better images.. I'm no photographer and have little idea about photography but people shot outstanding pics using this cam. Someone please help me setting my camera to better settings.... :S
FZ35 Query..
- Thread starter j_jindal1
- Start date
- Status
thetechmind
Forerunner
ashvarybabul
Discoverer
j_jindal1 said:
Okk.. the bigger problem is the one enlarged and written in Red...:ashamed:
Okk, never mind.... I guess posting few sample pics [full size] will me more helpful../..
I have the same cam. Things get improved a lot, once you get the hang of the modes like "M, S and A". Also for taking a still shot with zoom above 8X, a tripod is a must, or there should be enough light around to use higher shutter speeds.
You just need to balance the amount of light coming onto the sensor.
iso: lower iso> lower light (but sharper) - use at bright areas
higher iso : much more sensitive to light but at the cost of sharpness (noisy image) - use on dark lightings
Shutter speed: Not just decided by whether you need to capture a fast moving or slow moving object. It also decides how much light falls on sensor (actually its the period, but same effect in real)
higher speed like 1/1000: low light sensitive. Use it for bright occasions, and object is moving fast or is zoomed in- but the cost of aperture.
lower speed like 1/10 or 1/30 : use when object is still, hand is still (or a tripod), or available light is low. (best results is obtained by using slower shutted speed and a tripod, even for macros)
ultra slow shutter speed: 1 sec to 60 sec: use for ultra dark situations like night shots. A tripod is a 101% must. You will be amazed with the amount of light on the final pic.
Aperture: regulates how much light enters the cam. Also decides the field of focus
low aperture: eg. 2.8 : low fild of focus, but max amount of light enters. [can be used to focus only one subject and excluse the background at some distance by making them out of field of focus.
high aperture: eg. 8.0 : max field of focus. Almost entire objects are focussed (not entire
), but only allows feeble light to pass through. Use it at extreme high bright scenes, or with a tripod and longer shutter time [low shutter speeds].
these are some tips. Now truy out the "m" mode and try out these setings. You will learn in less than 3~4 days, and you will know what setings to use, when you view a scene with your eye.
You just need to balance the amount of light coming onto the sensor.
iso: lower iso> lower light (but sharper) - use at bright areas
higher iso : much more sensitive to light but at the cost of sharpness (noisy image) - use on dark lightings
Shutter speed: Not just decided by whether you need to capture a fast moving or slow moving object. It also decides how much light falls on sensor (actually its the period, but same effect in real)
higher speed like 1/1000: low light sensitive. Use it for bright occasions, and object is moving fast or is zoomed in- but the cost of aperture.
lower speed like 1/10 or 1/30 : use when object is still, hand is still (or a tripod), or available light is low. (best results is obtained by using slower shutted speed and a tripod, even for macros)
ultra slow shutter speed: 1 sec to 60 sec: use for ultra dark situations like night shots. A tripod is a 101% must. You will be amazed with the amount of light on the final pic.
Aperture: regulates how much light enters the cam. Also decides the field of focus
low aperture: eg. 2.8 : low fild of focus, but max amount of light enters. [can be used to focus only one subject and excluse the background at some distance by making them out of field of focus.
high aperture: eg. 8.0 : max field of focus. Almost entire objects are focussed (not entire
), but only allows feeble light to pass through. Use it at extreme high bright scenes, or with a tripod and longer shutter time [low shutter speeds].these are some tips. Now truy out the "m" mode and try out these setings. You will learn in less than 3~4 days, and you will know what setings to use, when you view a scene with your eye.
Another quick way to get a hang of the camera is to use the focus button. When you have centered and selected the view, press the shutter button ever so slightly and give the camera a second or so to focus in on the view. The mode should be set on iA and then look at what the camera tells you to do. It will detail out all the information about that going-to-be-taken shot. It will tell you whether it requires the flash, about the ISO, aperture etc. If you are satisfied with what you see and you think it is OK, then fully press the shutter button. If not then release the button and make some adjustments.
ashvarybabul
Discoverer
dOm1naTOr said:oh,,, yup forgot to add... use manual focus whenever possible. Use auto only when in a hurry
I didnt understood this statement of yours... could you plz elaborate the logic behind this...
Autofocus is very quick, but it might not focus what we need[even in multi point focus]. To get the right object in focus, use manual focus. With FZ 35, you can shift the view are of focus from center to any direction while focusing using the up, down, left right buttons.
for eg> http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1434/p10303491.jpg
it was shot using 18X zoom, but i didnt use a tripod
anyway, in manual focus, always the background was focussed. Even at F8.0 the object, ie the bird was slightly blurred. So just focus manually for the right object we need. We can blur out the bg even more by using a higher F, say 5.6 or 4.0. But by the time i did that, it flew away
And a manual focus is always best in macros.
Check this image>
in auto focus, the other leafs dominant are focussed. But manual focus has added a nice feeling to the image. It can be later cropped for a great 1920*1080 wallpaper.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5617/p10207341.jpg
crop: > http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/1805/plant1y.jpg
for eg> http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1434/p10303491.jpg
it was shot using 18X zoom, but i didnt use a tripod
anyway, in manual focus, always the background was focussed. Even at F8.0 the object, ie the bird was slightly blurred. So just focus manually for the right object we need. We can blur out the bg even more by using a higher F, say 5.6 or 4.0. But by the time i did that, it flew away
And a manual focus is always best in macros.
Check this image>
in auto focus, the other leafs dominant are focussed. But manual focus has added a nice feeling to the image. It can be later cropped for a great 1920*1080 wallpaper.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5617/p10207341.jpg
crop: > http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/1805/plant1y.jpg
And later adding very quick after effects to the planty image 
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/1805/plant1y.jpg
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/1805/plant1y.jpg
FaH33m said:
After pressing the MF on top, click right on the joystick to highlight the "up, down left" symbol on the rifht end. Then use the stick up/down to focus distant/nearer objects. the centre portion is shown as zoomed in for easy viewing of the focussed area. If the subject is on a corner of the screen, and you need to focus that without chaging the field of view, press up/down on stick for the zoomed centre view, and immediately press the 5 way button (arranged in a circle) to set the focussing zone to the corner or sides you wish, and then focus by up/down on stick without changing the field of view.
This is a very nice feature and only very few cams has this, and even some entry DSLR doesnt have this !!
This is extremely useful for macro shooting, where the subject are in a corner for best field view.
Also while capturing the image, press the "delete" button and turn on the burst mode. It click 3 consecutive pics in a fraction of a second (delay depends on available light). You can choose the best among them later after transferring to PC. Some of them might be truly better than the rest, which wont be possible by single shooting mode.
Also on the "dial", the seting "Hi Speed Burst" is really great, where there is plenty of light. (but pic size are about 3~5MP only)
Image priority: It takes pics in random succession giving priority to quality. that it takes each picture only after enough light for a picture enters the lens. That means, the rate will decrease with decrease in available light.
Speed Priority: It gives prioriy to speed, and doesnt care if enough light for a proper image enters the lens. It might lead to underexposure, if light isnt enough, but the speed is too much. it can take upto 20~30 pics per second. Good for a fast moving objects.
andrew327 said:And later adding very quick after effects to the planty image
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/1805/plant1y.jpg
And thanks to you. Im a noob in editing pics.
hyeah:Just happened to see some great mushroom growth near my home. Took some snaps>
Free File Hosting Made Simple - MediaFire
ashvarybabul
Discoverer
dOm1naTOr said:Autofocus is very quick, but it might not focus what we need[even in multi point focus]. To get the right object in focus, use manual focus. With FZ 35, you can shift the view are of focus from center to any direction while focusing using the up, down, left right buttons.
for eg> http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1434/p10303491.jpg
it was shot using 18X zoom, but i didnt use a tripod
anyway, in manual focus, always the background was focussed. Even at F8.0 the object, ie the bird was slightly blurred. So just focus manually for the right object we need. We can blur out the bg even more by using a higher F, say 5.6 or 4.0. But by the time i did that, it flew away
And a manual focus is always best in macros.
Check this image>
in auto focus, the other leafs dominant are focussed. But manual focus has added a nice feeling to the image. It can be later cropped for a great 1920*1080 wallpaper.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5617/p10207341.jpg
crop: > http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/1805/plant1y.jpg
okkk thanxx for the explanation...
I had not used FZ35 personally, but if it do not have the manual focusing same as it is in DSLR [using the focusing ring] it is very hectic and time wasting to do....
I had tried hand on Sony HX1 and MF in it is actually time wasting doing it through 5 way keys....
Moreover, Manual focusing through electronic viewfinder could be pathetic experience...
Also the AF nowdayz are quite correct..
And about focusing at particular point which U can actually miss even in multi focus point, the solution is simply select the one of all the focus points that will come over the subject... and if not just select the spot focus and then put the subject on centre for focus, lock it and then recompose the shot...:hap2:
However, MF goes very important in some creative work and macros...
so summing up, I dont find referring MF over AF in case of superzooms for all situations
Well said, but first of all, you wont find focusing ring on a bridge camera/mega zoom ones and neither do you see such levels of zooms on a DSLR without adding some expensive zoom lens kit.
Bridge camera is a blend b/w DSLR and a PnS like less than 1sec startup, almost instant AF etc. While it has almost all features of an entry level DSLR, PQ will be inferior due to smaller sensor, but better than most PnS cam even expensive than it. On the other hand it have great levels of zoom, but you are left with an almost non upgradeable cam and absence of a focusing ring.
This specific model FZ 35 has a joystick, and can be used for focusing which is lot better than 5ways buttons on most other bridge cams.
And using the Af the way you said has some probs too. I do use the same technique in my older Kodak 8MP cam and my K790 which dont have manual focusing. But when you point cam to an object of relatively same range of the subject for focusing, the exposure setings too gets adjusted which might not be suited well for our real subject which might have a bright background sometimes, and the image get over exposed, or underexposed if the subject is not lighted well.
I totally agree, it doesnt have the fun in focusing as in a DSLR, but it do gives amazing results compared to auto focusing.
Another example, this cam FZ 35, if we use the built in macro mode it choose automatically F2.8 (wtf) and the focusing field is narrowed and along with auto focus, it gives real crappy macros, but chooses relatively faster shutter speed (as its at f 2.8) which can save one from shakes.
But if you can hokd it steady, then narrow it to f5.6 ot lower, and choose a slower shutter and MF, and bingo, you have the entire petals of a flower focussed. it takes time, but is really worth it.
Also if you use some cheap macro lens kit (500 ~ 1k), which might be just a non coated magnification lens that can be attached, the AF works crap. But MF can yield good results.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/940/p10100221.jpg
Bridge camera is a blend b/w DSLR and a PnS like less than 1sec startup, almost instant AF etc. While it has almost all features of an entry level DSLR, PQ will be inferior due to smaller sensor, but better than most PnS cam even expensive than it. On the other hand it have great levels of zoom, but you are left with an almost non upgradeable cam and absence of a focusing ring.
This specific model FZ 35 has a joystick, and can be used for focusing which is lot better than 5ways buttons on most other bridge cams.
And using the Af the way you said has some probs too. I do use the same technique in my older Kodak 8MP cam and my K790 which dont have manual focusing. But when you point cam to an object of relatively same range of the subject for focusing, the exposure setings too gets adjusted which might not be suited well for our real subject which might have a bright background sometimes, and the image get over exposed, or underexposed if the subject is not lighted well.
I totally agree, it doesnt have the fun in focusing as in a DSLR, but it do gives amazing results compared to auto focusing.
Another example, this cam FZ 35, if we use the built in macro mode it choose automatically F2.8 (wtf) and the focusing field is narrowed and along with auto focus, it gives real crappy macros, but chooses relatively faster shutter speed (as its at f 2.8) which can save one from shakes.
But if you can hokd it steady, then narrow it to f5.6 ot lower, and choose a slower shutter and MF, and bingo, you have the entire petals of a flower focussed. it takes time, but is really worth it.
Also if you use some cheap macro lens kit (500 ~ 1k), which might be just a non coated magnification lens that can be attached, the AF works crap. But MF can yield good results.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/940/p10100221.jpg
ashvarybabul
Discoverer
dOm1naTOr said:
It is there in some of the bridge cams like FujifilmS100FS [I guess]
Well, DSLR dont work on the funda of zooms.. they fundamental is about the focal length...
Thanxx for the info...
However I knew this very fact from past few years....
hyeah:Even I had used bridge cams few years ago..
- Status