WTB Multimeter
- Thread starter bigb123
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enthusiast29
Skilled
This one's actually good for a hobbyist unlike many other cheap ones on amazon which are also clones but bad ones at that.
I'm using this personally.
bigb123
Disciple
1) Multimeter in used condition will do, provided it works fine and is in good condition.
2) Budget around Rs.500 for a used one. (Can be adjusted more or less depending on the offer)
3) I am a hobbyist.
4) I am fairly used to electronics/electricals and it's repair work. (Have a degree in Electronics Engineering)
2) Budget around Rs.500 for a used one. (Can be adjusted more or less depending on the offer)
3) I am a hobbyist.
4) I am fairly used to electronics/electricals and it's repair work. (Have a degree in Electronics Engineering)
Skynet
Disciple
man i love tronics repair and tinkering , i am good with basics but i couldn't solder worth shit that's where it goes in skill territory.
i might have some things that need some repair you know stuff like soldering de soldering , would you be interested?
I don't have a used multimeter and so can't help there. There are plenty of sub-1k models but if you can stretch your budget a bit, I suggest you go for an auto-range true-rms model.
Auto-range helps you avoid the hassle of having to fiddle with the range switch all the time. True-RMS gives you the true effective value even if the waveform is not sine wave such as when you measure the output of a non-sine UPS. So-called "modified sine wave" inverters and UPSes are not really sine wave. A non-true rms meter will not give you the correct reading with such a UPS/inverter.
Products by top brands like Fluke are no more accurate than cheaper ones but they are both mechanically and electrically robust. They are also more expensive, starting from above 2k. I've used brands like Meco and HTC and, with proper care, they last me about 5 years of constant use.
Here's a couple of suggestions. Both are auto-range and true-RMS. The first one is 2000 count, that is, the maximum reading is 1999. The second one is 6000 count (5999) and can also measure capacitance.
Auto-range helps you avoid the hassle of having to fiddle with the range switch all the time. True-RMS gives you the true effective value even if the waveform is not sine wave such as when you measure the output of a non-sine UPS. So-called "modified sine wave" inverters and UPSes are not really sine wave. A non-true rms meter will not give you the correct reading with such a UPS/inverter.
Products by top brands like Fluke are no more accurate than cheaper ones but they are both mechanically and electrically robust. They are also more expensive, starting from above 2k. I've used brands like Meco and HTC and, with proper care, they last me about 5 years of constant use.
Here's a couple of suggestions. Both are auto-range and true-RMS. The first one is 2000 count, that is, the maximum reading is 1999. The second one is 6000 count (5999) and can also measure capacitance.
HTC Instruments Digital Multimeter with 6000 Count : Amazon.in: Industrial & Scientific
HTC Instruments Digital Multimeter with 6000 Count : Amazon.in: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.in
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bigb123
Disciple
Thanks a lot Sir....this is just what i wanted.... Auto range and true rms.... Market is already flooded with numerous brands and models creating a lot of confusion...you pointed in the right direction...wanted something robust and reliable...will go for the HTC 6000 count variant...
Soldering must be one of the most underestimated skills. It looks easy when an experienced person does it, but it's another story when a beginner tries it.This not the place for a detailed tutorial in soldering but here are a few tips:
Make sure the surfaces to be soldered are clean and free of oxides, dirt and oils. If necessary, scrape them clean with a knife or sandpaper.
Use good quality 60/40 solder. A good solder wire has adequate quantity of flux at its core that reacts with residual oxides and removes them.
Do not melt solder first on the soldering iron tip and then apply it to the joint. This is perhaps the most common mistake made by beginners.
Pre-heat the joint to be soldered with the iron, then apply the solder wire. Lightly press the tip of the iron to the joint and then apply the solder a second or so later, preferably to both the iron tip and the joint at the same time.
Once the solder has melted over the workpiece, do not remove the iron too quickly. Let the molten solder flow over the joint.
Do not let the soldered joint move or jiggle until the solder has solidified completely.
I mentioned three stages where you have to wait a bit. The correct length of time depends on the material. A large mass of metal like thick copper wires may need several seconds. Small delicate devices can and should be soldered quickly.
Hope this helps.
Skynet
Disciple
it's not the issue of technique per se , though you did give some great pointers , it's just i have sloppy hands , i just make a mess sometimes damage other components , i believe its very akin to skill of a good surgeon , need really stable and controlled movements , that's some olympic level athlete skills.
This not the place for a detailed tutorial in soldering but here are a few tips:
Make sure the surfaces to be soldered are clean and free of oxides, dirt and oils. If necessary, scrape them clean with a knife or sandpaper.
Use good quality 60/40 solder. A good solder wire has adequate quantity of flux at its core that reacts with residual oxides and removes them.
Do not melt solder first on the soldering iron tip and then apply it to the joint. This is perhaps the most common mistake made by beginners.
Pre-heat the joint to be soldered with the iron, then apply the solder wire. Lightly press the tip of the iron to the joint and then apply the solder a second or so later, preferably to both the iron tip and the joint at the same time.
Once the solder has melted over the workpiece, do not remove the iron too quickly. Let the molten solder flow over the joint.
Do not let the soldered joint move or jiggle until the solder has solidified completely.
I mentioned three stages where you have to wait a bit. The correct length of time depends on the material. A large mass of metal like thick copper wires may need several seconds. Small delicate devices can and should be soldered quickly.
Hope this helps.
manohar5321
Disciple
I screwed up plenty of boards when learning how to solder, I must say all that loss was worth as now am pretty good and can confidently solder even smd stuff, but my advice practice with a cheap soldering iron and then buy yourself a good one to keep working on
bigb123
Disciple
@Pimpom Sir which one should i go for ?
1) https://www.amazon.in/Meco-Digital-...rtificate/dp/B07F17ZCQ5/ref=asc_df_B07F17ZCQ5
Or
2) https://www.amazon.in/HTC-Instruments-Digital-Multimeter-Count/dp/B07P46N1HD
1) https://www.amazon.in/Meco-Digital-...rtificate/dp/B07F17ZCQ5/ref=asc_df_B07F17ZCQ5
Or
2) https://www.amazon.in/HTC-Instruments-Digital-Multimeter-Count/dp/B07P46N1HD
bigb123
Disciple
Due to budget constraints. I also looked for a used one...but can't find any..
@bigb123 - There's enough to write about choosing multimeters to make up a long article.
There's a saying "Buy cheap, buy twice" which means that a cheap product is likely to break down at some point in the future and you'll have to buy another one. While this is true to some extent, a lot depends on the owner's needs, usage pattern and budget.
As a long time practitioner of electronics, I have more than one multimeter and have owned many more in the past. At present, I have an HTC, a Meco, a Fluke and an Aneng - all made in China, including the Fluke.
The Fluke is more likely to survive a drop and accidental misuse such as trying to measure mains voltage while being set in the resistance range. OTOH it costs 3 to 5 times any of the others. Will it last 3 to 5 times as long as the others? One thing I'm sure of is that the cheaper ones are just as accurate as the Fluke.
I cannot make the decision for you but if I were in your position, I'd go for the HTC DM-85T for 1348/-.
There's a saying "Buy cheap, buy twice" which means that a cheap product is likely to break down at some point in the future and you'll have to buy another one. While this is true to some extent, a lot depends on the owner's needs, usage pattern and budget.
As a long time practitioner of electronics, I have more than one multimeter and have owned many more in the past. At present, I have an HTC, a Meco, a Fluke and an Aneng - all made in China, including the Fluke.
The Fluke is more likely to survive a drop and accidental misuse such as trying to measure mains voltage while being set in the resistance range. OTOH it costs 3 to 5 times any of the others. Will it last 3 to 5 times as long as the others? One thing I'm sure of is that the cheaper ones are just as accurate as the Fluke.
I cannot make the decision for you but if I were in your position, I'd go for the HTC DM-85T for 1348/-.
blackscorpio
Disciple
This not the place for a detailed tutorial in soldering but here are a few tips:
Make sure the surfaces to be soldered are clean and free of oxides, dirt and oils. If necessary, scrape them clean with a knife or sandpaper.
Use good quality 60/40 solder. A good solder wire has adequate quantity of flux at its core that reacts with residual oxides and removes them.
Do not melt solder first on the soldering iron tip and then apply it to the joint. This is perhaps the most common mistake made by beginners.
Pre-heat the joint to be soldered with the iron, then apply the solder wire. Lightly press the tip of the iron to the joint and then apply the solder a second or so later, preferably to both the iron tip and the joint at the same time.
Once the solder has melted over the workpiece, do not remove the iron too quickly. Let the molten solder flow over the joint.
Do not let the soldered joint move or jiggle until the solder has solidified completely.
I mentioned three stages where you have to wait a bit. The correct length of time depends on the material. A large mass of metal like thick copper wires may need several seconds. Small delicate devices can and should be soldered quickly.
Hope this helps.
Great tips @Pimpom thanks.
There is another problem with these kind of activities(underestimated), we think advanced & expensive tools for the job are for more experienced people not for beginners, with that thought most people buy cheap/basic tools & struggle to learn it.
IMO, helping hands is a must for anyone who is starting to solder. And get the very best iron. Without the right tools you will soon loose interest, as you struggle to get it right with mediocre tools.
coming from one with a basic soldering iron & still struggling to do a good solder. lol
Ssreek
Adept
Thanks for writing out some tips...
This not the place for a detailed tutorial in soldering but here are a few tips:
Make sure the surfaces to be soldered are clean and free of oxides, dirt and oils. If necessary, scrape them clean with a knife or sandpaper.
Use good quality 60/40 solder. A good solder wire has adequate quantity of flux at its core that reacts with residual oxides and removes them.
Do not melt solder first on the soldering iron tip and then apply it to the joint. This is perhaps the most common mistake made by beginners.
Pre-heat the joint to be soldered with the iron, then apply the solder wire. Lightly press the tip of the iron to the joint and then apply the solder a second or so later, preferably to both the iron tip and the joint at the same time.
Once the solder has melted over the workpiece, do not remove the iron too quickly. Let the molten solder flow over the joint.
Do not let the soldered joint move or jiggle until the solder has solidified completely.
I mentioned three stages where you have to wait a bit. The correct length of time depends on the material. A large mass of metal like thick copper wires may need several seconds. Small delicate devices can and should be soldered quickly.
Hope this helps.
I earlier replaced mouse switches twice. Today my friend had an old "gaming" mouse which was collecting dust. So I tested it and switches needed replacement. When I tried desoldering, it doesn't even melt. I tried for few more seconds, applied flux, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, then tried again. Heck it doesn't melt at all and doesn't let me desolder. What could be the issue here? I am using only a 25w soldering iron.
I too am looking for multimeters and this is what I got suggested by a youtube technician guy.. Does the ncv feature work really well?
If you are buying a new and best model, definitely choose a brand which provides warranty and also sells spares if necessary. Even though some say you don't need such warranty/stores for multimeter, it's still good to have. Also, if you intend to work with electrical work, it's good to have a double fuse. Almost all cheaper models have only 1 fuse for basic work.
enthusiast29
Skilled
Yeah I tried on switch boards and power cables etc. It does work.
In the old days, practically all solder for electronics work was an alloy of tin and lead, most commonly in the ratio of 60:40 which melts at around 190°C. Due to the toxic nature of lead, the industry has moved to leadless alloys, especially for automated production. Unfortunately, such alloys melt at a higher temperature - like 220-250°C. This should still melt with a 25W iron. You have to make a good contact with the iron.
There's one trick I use to make it easier to remove solder from a PCB manufactured with leadless solder: Before attempting to desolder the existing joint, add normal tin/lead solder to the joint. The molten solder will help apply heat more efficiently and also lower the melting point of the existing solder.