Small inverter(+battery)/UPS for a wifi modem

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DarkAngel

DarkAngel

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I have a TP Link Wifi Modem+ Router (BSNL broadband)

I need a small inverter or UPS set up that can power this router (without any disconnections in the internet) for about 1.5 hours (max) in case of power cuts.

Should I go for a regular PC UPS like the APAC/Microtek 600 VA and plug just my Wifi Router to it or should I go for something like Sukam Pico (Most of the sites say its w/0 battery. Where do I source the battery then? And any idea about installation if I buy it online?)

I am willing to spend 2k-3k on this. I need a reliable solution as I can't afford any disconnection of the wifi network ( I will on official calls via Skype)

Please chip in with your suggestions and similar set ups you have. Thanks in advance :)
 
Would suggest connecting a 12V battery directly to the router with a 12V, 1A fuse with the battery being charged [As in always online mode] as that would be most efficient vs AC>DC>AC>Router Adapter + no chance of power interuption.

Sukam Pico page says it has a
  • In-built 7.2 Ah SMF Battery
 
vivek.krishnan said:
Would suggest connecting a 12V battery directly to the router with a 12V, 1A fuse with the battery being charged [As in always online mode] as that would be most efficient vs AC>DC>AC>Router Adapter + no chance of power interuption.

Sukam Pico page says it has a
  • In-built 7.2 Ah SMF Battery
Click to expand...

So are you saying UPS is a better idea than inverter? Sorry I am not that good with electrical stuff.

Should I just buy an APC 600VA or 800VA as the wattage is very less? I should get 1hr + with a 600VA if I just connect my wifi modem-router IINM.
 
DarkAngel said:
So are you saying UPS is a better idea than inverter?
Click to expand...

UPS and an inverter are one and the same stuff. it's just that an inverter gives square sine wave which is not good for electronics, such as computers. so, people use inverters for fans, lights etc which can tolerate un-pure sine waves.

UPS gives out pure sine waves which don't harm delicate electronics. and UPSs are designed to switch over almost immediately to provide Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS). big UPSs are generally always-online, i.e., they provide conditioned power through batteries all the time... and you won't notice any blip during power failure. smallers ones tick-tocks (using relays) during switchover.

if you hear a humming sound from equipments (esp ceiling fans) running on inverter/UPS then it's the square wave type.

to answer your query, inverters can be as good as UPSs but then you need to invest in a costlier/bigger inverter. there are inverters which output pure sine wave and have always-online UPS function too.
 
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DarkAngel said:
So are you saying UPS is a better idea than inverter? Sorry I am not that good with electrical stuff.

Should I just buy an APC 600VA or 800VA as the wattage is very less? I should get 1hr + with a 600VA if I just connect my wifi modem-router IINM.
Click to expand...

Most of the routers are usually running off 12V 1A adaptors. So, my point was that to connect the router directly to the battery with a 1A car fuse + 12V regulator as the charger usually outputs ~ 13.5V, and connect the battery to the mains via a battery charger.

As for a UPS or Inverter, pure sine wave is preferred.
 
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vivek.krishnan said:
Most of the routers are usually running off 12V 1A adaptors. So, my point was that to connect the router directly to the battery with a 1A car fuse + 12V regulator as the charger usually outputs ~ 13.5V, and connect the battery to the mains via a battery charger.

As for a UPS or Inverter, pure sine wave is preferred.
Click to expand...

I would like to use a 12V Duracell(Alkaline battery) since in my case, I have genset based back up power arrangement and when power goes it takes 2 minutes for it to restore. So I need modem back up only for 2 minutes every time there is an outage. Do you think I need to put a diode in the circuit to stop 13.5V output to stop going to battery when mains is available? If yes, what specification diode? Do you think my idea is workable. If it works, then it will be least cost for lot of us who have some kind of power backup at home.
 
vivek.krishnan said:
Would suggest connecting a 12V battery directly to the router with a 12V, 1A fuse with the battery being charged [As in always online mode] as that would be most efficient vs AC>DC>AC>Router Adapter + no chance of power interuption.

Sukam Pico page says it has a
  • In-built 7.2 Ah SMF Battery
Click to expand...

Hi Vivek,

I am lame with electronics but when I googled 1A fuse, it advised lot of different images, could you please share some image is possible so I could catch exactly the same stuff from market and for the battery too.

Having this combination will not harm the router in case of frequent power disconnections , correct ?

Eagerly waiting for your reply.
 
gazab said:
Hi Vivek,

I am lame with electronics but when I googled 1A fuse, it advised lot of different images, could you please share some image is possible so I could catch exactly the same stuff from market and for the battery too.

Having this combination will not harm the router in case of frequent power disconnections , correct ?

Eagerly waiting for your reply.
Click to expand...

Firstly, if you are not good with electronics, then I would suggest to get someone who does and who will check the voltages and other stuff before doing something like this. If you are not familiar with electronics, then you may wire it wrongly and cause damage to the router and battery. In such cases, you should get a proper UPS and use that, rather than a DIY project.

Coming to the 1A fuse, you should get a car fuse. Cheap and easy.

Battery any 12V battery will do.
 
If you do not know about electronics, do not try to experiment. You will waste money and time.

Using 12 v 7 Ah lead acid battery directly on the router with regulator as charger, battery could be overcharged or undercharged.

12 v 7 Ah lead acid battery will require about DC 14 volt and 700 milliamperes when it is not charged and when it is charged, it needs a trickle charge, that is, 70 milliamperes. When battery is overcharged all the time, battery will become hot and bulge and may explode also and if is undercharged, it will die soon if is not charged immediately.

If you can make or get a good charger for 12 v 7Ah battery, then it will advisable you can connect your router directly to battery, but before that do check power requirement of router. It is a complex thing, better be off with this idea.

In my opinion, based on requirement, best will be to buy a low wattage UPS and forget about all the charge discharge things which the buyer does not know.
 
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robertjohn said:
If you do not know about electronics, do not try to experiment. You will waste money and time.

Using 12 v 7 Ah lead acid battery directly on the router with regulator as charger, battery could be overcharged or undercharged.

12 v 7 Ah lead acid battery will require about DC 14 volt and 700 milliamperes when it is not charged and when it is charged, it needs a trickle charge, that is, 70 milliamperes. When battery is overcharged all the time, battery will become hot and bulge and may explode also and if is undercharged, it will die soon if is not charged immediately.

If you can make or get a good charger for 12 v 7Ah battery, then it will advisable you can connect your router directly to battery, but before that do check power requirement of router. It is a complex thing, better be off with this idea.

In my opinion, based on requirement, best will be to buy a low wattage UPS and forget about all the charge discharge things which the buyer does not know.
Click to expand...

+1. Coming to 14V - I know you need nearly 13V to charge the 12V, and I was thinking more on the lines of using a regulator which would have very less loss. Also, the router will have some tolerance so should be able to take about 5-10% extra - this is subjective.

Also, my original post was posted for the OP, not the person who interjected with his query. OP is familiar with ELX stuff, IMO.
 
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For Wi-fi router, I would suggest an old working UPS(with dead battery) for 400-500 bucks, and couple it with a 7AH powersafe exide battery(~800 bucks) from a local exide shop.
 
vivek.krishnan said:
+1. Coming to 14V - I know you need nearly 13V to charge the 12V, and I was thinking more on the lines of using a regulator which would have very less loss. Also, the router will have some tolerance so should be able to take about 5-10% extra - this is subjective.

Also, my original post was posted for the OP, not the person who interjected with his query. OP is familiar with ELX stuff, IMO.
Click to expand...

Regarding voltage doubt, you can check battery specification site.
http://www.exideindustrialbatteries.com/file/EP.PDF

Go to page 8 of EP.PDF, you will get battery charging specification in the table.

If you dug deep for solution, you will lastly make a UPS, so why to waste time digging, get a low watt ups, 500 va or anything lesser.

In short (first you will think about battery charging, then protecting the battery with correct charging, then you will think switch over to battery when AC line goes off and come back to AC line when AC line come up, then a box to put all in it, etc., etc.) and lastly, this will make a ups which we used to buy readymade.

foruamit2004 said:
For Wi-fi router, I would suggest an old working UPS(with dead battery) for 400-500 bucks, and couple it with a 7AH powersafe exide battery(~800 bucks) from a local exide shop.
Click to expand...

If you want cheap solution, then best will as stated by this member, get an old ups with dead battery which you can find it on olx.in search on your area and put a new battery.

Now it is your choice to get a new ups or old.
 
Check out Resonate Router UPS on Amazon. I bought this sometime back for 1500, gives me 3 hours backup.
Does its job well.
 
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Actually, now, TP Link 740N - I have one which works on 5V adaptor. It would be easy to connect a powerbank in between.
 
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