Suggest Multi-function Laser AIO Printer

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Checking price locally also, but I would anyway end up paying 500 bucks for the cab and spending 2 hours on a weekend on the trip to go to CTC. Amazon will deliver it to my door step in a day.
 
Party Monger said:
This is the more popular multifunction Laser printer. Friend has been using for years - https://www.amazon.in/Brother-DCP-L...F8&qid=1528269577&sr=8-1&keywords=brother+mfp

Has a lot of features and you can easily find a guy to refill for 300 bucks. Has wifi, auto duplex and stuff. Check it out. Cheaper offline. Good price around 14k. Also check paytm.
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That's the one i have. Auto duplex is only for printing not scanning.

I'd skip refilling if you want the drum to last. There is no quality control with these generic toners and warranty is voided immediately. Warranty is for only a year

How often is a refill required when requirement is 500 pages/yr

  • Your printer is worth a lot more than you’re paying for it. Seriously, there is some amazingly complicated technology in your printer, including the printheads, the ink, and the mapping software. You take your printer for granted, but that box can cover a piece of paper in millions of dots of precisely located, color-matched ink in a few seconds. You’re probably buying the printer for the cost of parts and distribution, which means the manufacturer is effectively subsidizing the thing on the premise that they’ll recoup their research and development costs (and the rest of their overhead) from your ink purchases.
  • You should not expect a good experience if you use knockoff ink cartridges. See above. Part of R&D is designing ink to have the right physical properties to work with the printheads. Knockoff ink might not have those properties, and, as a result, may not work very well. Also, as we learned recently, most inkjet printers designed for home use actually have the printhead built into the cartridge itself. There is no permanent printhead in most cheap printers. So you might be buying crap ink and a crap printhead. And if you try to refill a genuine cartridge with knockoff ink, you’re probably putting subpar ink into a container with a burnt-out printhead.
  • Knockoff toner cartridges, on the other hand, are okay! Toner is just an electrostatically charged powder (part polymer, part carbon), and the cartridge itself is just a simple plastic container. There are no fancy printheads or circuitry. Manufacturers don’t fight as hard to protect toner cartridges because there’s not a lot of intellectual property in these things. However, they tend to charge a higher markup on the printers themselves to make up for the cheaper toner costs.
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These people seem to think refilling toner is ok but i'm not sure. But not with inkjets as the ink with those takes more R&D apparently

https://thewirecutter.com/blog/why-all-printers-suck-even-the-best-ones/
 
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I have a basic Samsung ML 2166W laser. A cartridge lasts 3000 pages and costs around 2000. Its cheap to run and the drum lasts for 15000 pages @5% coverage. Once the drum wears out, I'll probably just dump it and get something better.

I'd personally get a separate scanner. The AIOs cost more and they are the jack of all trades and master of none unless you spend a lot of money (read 50k+) on them. A standalone scanner will give better results everytime.
 
^^ Copy functionality is absolutely essential to me since my mom also has to be able to use it without knowing how to operate the computer. This is why I bought a AIO again despite scanner being functional on my old AIO and why I am again looking for an AIO only.

In any case, there is now another issue I am pondering about regarding the Brother Printer. The power draw at peak is 1100W as per specs. I have only 6A sockets in my room where the printer needs to be kept and the same line is also shared by my computer, 49" TV and consoles. So, at its peak, it could trip the 6A MCB.
 
^^Can't find the amazon comment that recommended against generic toners. It might have been with another laser printer. If you have some one reliable then i suppose its ok. There are videos on amazon even showing how to do it. It's a bit involved with gear positions

Lord Nemesis said:
^^ Copy functionality is absolutely essential to me since my mom also has to be able to use it without knowing how to operate the computer. This is why I bought a AIO again despite scanner being functional on my old AIO and why I am again looking for an AIO only.

In any case, there is now another issue I am pondering about regarding the Brother Printer. The power draw at peak is 1100W as per specs. I have only 6A sockets in my room where the printer needs to be kept and the same line is also shared by my computer, 49" TV and consoles. So, at its peak, it could trip the 6A MCB.
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Sounds about right i measured it at 950W running and 2kW at startup momentarily. There is a chance it will trip the MCB.

Put it in another room? this is where wireless is so useful
 
Chaos said:
I have a basic Samsung ML 2166W laser. A cartridge lasts 3000 pages and costs around 2000. Its cheap to run and the drum lasts for 15000 pages @5% coverage. Once the drum wears out, I'll probably just dump it and get something better.

I'd personally get a separate scanner. The AIOs cost more and they are the jack of all trades and master of none unless you spend a lot of money (read 50k+) on them. A standalone scanner will give better results everytime.
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Pardon my ignorance but not too familiar with laser tech. What exactly is the issue with the drum? Why would you want to junk the printer unless this drum costs are super high?

I thought it was only the concerns about toners when it came to LaserJet printers
 
Lord Nemesis said:
In any case, there is now another issue I am pondering about regarding the Brother Printer. The power draw at peak is 1100W as per specs. I have only 6A sockets in my room where the printer needs to be kept and the same line is also shared by my computer, 49" TV and consoles. So, at its peak, it could trip the 6A MCB.
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A MCB will never trip because the current just crosses it's rated value and also not if the overload is for a short duration.
There are 3 types of MCB -

1)Type B - Trip instantly at 3-5 times it's rated current. Generally used in residential setting.
2) Type C - Trip instantly at 5-10 times it's rated current.
3) Type D - Trip instantly at 10-25 times it's rated current.
Both type C and D generally find it's use in commercial and industrial setting where high inrush current are frequent.
 
mach9 said:
Pardon my ignorance but not too familiar with laser tech. What exactly is the issue with the drum? Why would you want to junk the printer unless this drum costs are super high?

I thought it was only the concerns about toners when it came to LaserJet printers
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Basically the cost of the drum is the cost of a new printer for these low end lasers. Better to just dump the printer and get something better.

Also all the drums sold locally are fakes.
 
rdst_1 said:
A MCB will never trip because the current just crosses it's rated value and also not if the overload is for a short duration.
There are 3 types of MCB -

1)Type B - Trip instantly at 3-5 times it's rated current. Generally used in residential setting.
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In other words only when there is a short

So should LN have a plan B location ?
 
blr_p said:
In other words only when there is a short

So should LN have a plan B location ?
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If he keeps oveeloading the MCB regularly, it will definitely deteriorate the MCB overtime. So a second location, considering it will be a network printer makes sense. Or he could just upgrade the MCB for one of the points in his room. It shouldn't take more than 10mins to swap out the 6A MCB for a 10A one. One thing I have learnt, you can't have enough power points in a room these days. Always better to have more.
 
Back when I was living in Chandigarh, I have had a 6A MCB trip regularly whenever I switched on my PC after I upgraded to a Corsair HX1000. Naturally, my rig didn't pull even half the rated power, but the inrush current was somehow causing the MCB to trip. The issue got sorted after the got the wiring changed to a 10A MCB.

In any case, I checked the MCB's in my flat today and interestingly, the builder has used only 10A and 16A ones in the panel.
 
inrush.PNG

rdst_1 said:
A MCB will never trip because the current just crosses it's rated value and also not if the overload is for a short duration.
There are 3 types of MCB -

1)Type B - Trip instantly at 3-5 times it's rated current. Generally used in residential setting.
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61A inrush current for the HX1000 and it doesn't trip a 10A MCB ?

I'm surprised its so high to begin with
 
^^ That's review of the new 80Plus Platinum rated HX1000 model. Mine is the old model back from 2008. I doubt if it has anything in common with the new model including the OEM.
 
So what is the inrush of your PSU then ?

A 10A MCB doesn't trip. But it does trip a 6A MCB. So the inrush is likely half, so 20-30 A. The laser printer will add another 9A with its inrush

You total inrush is 30-40A now. Just within or over what a 10A MCB can handle
 
blr_p said:
61A inrush current for the HX1000 and it doesn't trip a 10A MCB ?

I'm surprised its so high to begin with
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http://www.electronicdesign.com/ele...ng-wrong-circuit-breaker-waste-money-or-worse

The above article says -

1) The rating of the circuit breaker doesn't have to exceed the height of the spike. If the circuit breaker is a delay type, a temporary spike won't trip the breaker.
The general rule is to specify a circuit breaker rated at 100% of the continuous or average load. However, if a normal surge current lasts longer than one minute, specify a circuit breaker rated at 100% of the surge current.

2) Another common mistake is selecting the wrong circuit-breaker technology for an application. The four choices are thermal, thermal-magnetic, magnetic, and high performance. Each type offers different electrical characteristics and options.

Appropriate for equipment where high-surge currents accompany the start of motors, thermal circuit breakers use bimetal technology to discriminate between safe switch-on currents/transients and prolonged overloads. A typical thermal breaker must trip within one hour at 140% of its rating
 
rdst_1 said:
1) The rating of the circuit breaker doesn't have to exceed the height of the spike. If the circuit breaker is a delay type, a temporary spike won't trip the breaker.
The general rule is to specify a circuit breaker rated at 100% of the continuous or average load. However, if a normal surge current lasts longer than one minute, specify a circuit breaker rated at 100% of the surge current.
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Odds of both printer and PSU coming on at the same time will be low. So, going with contnuous average load..

1kW + 850 ~2kW means around 8 - 9A which a 10A MCB should be able to handle

TV and consoles won't add much
 
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