Looking to buy one of these, want the forum’s experience and expertise in selecting one. It’s primarily for a PC with a 850w Power Supply Unit (nothing else)
CyberPower (not the US brand, this appears to be an Indian company)
[HEADING=2][UT1500E - Backup UPS Systems | CyberPower](’
Hey thanks for your reply. Both those units say max load <850w and my PSU is 850W? I used the APC calculator and it recommended 1500VA + unit. Am I missing something here?
UT600E is definitely not enough and will start making overload noise the moment you put any load on the GPU.
BR1000G just might be enough(If you only connect the cabinet and not the monitors) but I’ll get 1500VA(or higher) just to be on the safe side.
I personally had bad experiences with mikrotek so I can’t recommend them and I have no clue about this new cyberpower company. I have good experience with APC and I can recommend them.
Lastly, I’ll also suggest looking into inverters(They also have built in UPS feature) if you have outages lasting more than ~30 minutes. A good sine wave inverter is ~8-9k and a 100Ah battery will be about the same price.
Ditch both of them and get a APC one. The model suggested by @@bssunilreddy.
I use a similar model UPS and i can safely run PC (mid range) + 24 inch LCD +40 Inch LED TV + PS4 all at once for quite sometime. So your 850W PC will be easily covered by that.
I have had bad experience with microtek. So would advise you against it.
They’re the same company, considering the price they’re the only good option next to microtek.
I was in the same dilemma and didn’t want to spend 15k just for a PC ups so i went the inverter route and got a Exide 1450va ups plus a 150ah battery for less than 20k. Also don’t get anything below 1500va as that won’t help and will just trip from overload whenever there’s a power cut.
Based on my personal experience getting a home ups would be much more better, longer battery backup, longer warranty on battery while still being useful for your home.
Unless you stay at a rented/temporary place where you’re not allowed to install one or if you follow a nomadic lifestyle due to personal or professional reasons you should definitely go for home ups.
Also your PC power usage won’t be so high as the power supply rating, I used to run a 5900x+rtx 3090 with a asus thor psu and the power draw displayed was around 64-128w during idle and at max I have seen it go around 450-500w.
Thanks to all who have replied so far. Appreciate your time.
My personal preference is APC, but they’re costly. Can you please shed some light on the bad experience you had with Microtek?
Thanks for your usage stats. What wattage PSU does your PC have? and have you gamed on the PS4 and PC simultaneously?
Can you please shed some light on the bad experience you had with Microtek?
Oh I did some basic checks on my phone and I could not validate if they were they same company. But upon further browsing from a desktop I too realised its the same brand. Thanks for pointing it out!
I’m in a rented place so home inverter is not an option. Also, want to keep costs low for the time being.
I’m do live in a rented place so home inverter is not an option. Also, want to keep costs low for the time being.
Thanks for sharing your usage. I struggle to understand this but, e,g. Nvidia says a 3090 needs an 850W PSU but actual draw from the wall is just 500W for your 3090 based system , I have seen multiple sources that cite stuff in this line. However, online tools (like the one on the APC site) do not align to this logic but, they actually say that wattage should be equal or great than your appliances rated value, yes they do want you to buy higher-end products but idk.. Perhaps some electrical professional who does this for a living can help clear things out.
My PSU is Corsair RM650. PC specs are i5 7500, GTX 1660 super and Dell 24’ inches screen.
PS4 is the old FAT model.
Usage case is like playing on PS4+LED TV, while PC was doing some mundane tasks like torrents and video encoding. Nothing super heavy but neither it was idle. So medium power draw from each and every thing.
Even though there was power cut i was in middle of something and i kept on going. Lol.
I guess I must have played for 10 mins or so then thought of NOT taking any more chance and switched off every thing. WORTH TO MENTION THAT THE BATTERY HAD STILL NOT REACHED CRITICAL CONDITION EVEN AFTER 10 MINS WHEN IT STARTS TO BEEP IN QUICK SUCCESSION. My UPS is almost two year old.
Most of the UPS suggested here have a power factor of 0.6. Calculate your peak load and ensure that the UPS you purchase supports that load. If your peak draw is not supported by the UPS, your PC will crash and reboot. This will happen more frequently as the batteries age. I faced this issue with APC800 as it aged. Most of the APC SmartUPS and its Pro lineup and many other brands have a power factor of 0.6
Look at brands providing onsite service like APC, Microtek and Numeric so that you don’t have to carry those heavy units to service centers
I use the APC Back-UPS BX1100C 1100VA model with 660W claimed load. It had worked fine without any issues so far. The wall socket has inverter line backup through a 1400VA inverter paired to a dual 150Ah batteries which doesn’t cause any need to shutdown for hours during a powercut.