Audio AE 5 Stands - want designs

rPOk

Adept
Hi ppl,

I'm getting speaker stands custom made (by switch) for my AE5 on the lines of tnt-audio.

I will be filling the stands with leadshot/sand to increase the coupling of sound (esp low frequencies) to the ground and provide a firmer bass.

I want designs to go with my white AE5s. Black stained wood boards will be used. Please give me pictures of the designs which will go with the speakers, while staying technically good (i.e. reducing the vibrations and improving the bass).

Also i will need recommendations on the height of the stands. Currently they will be used alongside a pc table, however later i plan to include them in my home theatre setup.

Thx

edit: this thread may be moved to audio section
 
If you are talking about the Apogee AE5, then use the best wood only - Finland plywood. Take a block of about 6 x 6 inches in cross-section and of your desired length and then smoothen its sides. If you want it to be aesthetically pleasing, then shave lots of wood from the long edges of the block so that the cross-section resembles a rounded rectangle. Attach two boards at the ends of size 12 x 12 inches or so. Then polish/stain the entire construct. Repeat for the other speaker unit, and you are done!
This is different from tnt-audio's stuffed PVC-tube design, but ensures you get a firm platform for the speakers with much less effort.
Choose a height that keeps the tweeters at the same level as your ears.
I hope you understand this simple design without the need for pictures, but then you can ask Switch too!
 
Well, my design should work for the AudioEngine speakers also, since I don't see much difference in the shapes of the two. If you really want a picture of what I'm talking about, just look for pedestals meant for expensive vases on some image-search engine. They look like weight-lifting dumb-bells, only with much thicker central axles.
zhopudey's suggestion is excellent - if you can handle that kind of heavy-duty stuff. I mean, everytime you want to move them (for cleaning etc.) you'll need to ask for help. Also, granite becomes really smooth after polishing, so you will have to clamp the boxes onto the surface, else they'll wander around.
 
ohho...i'm ok with wooden stands...cant get heavy duty stands since i'll be moving them to my living room and bedroom sometimes...i want pictures of designs...
 
If you can wait a couple of days, I'll post some when I'm back in Mumbai and in action. Right now I'm operating in a miserable area with electricity two hours a day and a datacard.
 
How abt using cinder block stands?

These ones look pretty cool

Although am not sure if cinder blocks are avl here...or if they can help achieve the best results in terms of sound...
 
First, let's understand what a stand is supposed to achieve. Basically you want a stand that acts like a floor, so rigidity is the key. There are two schools though, one which believes in mass-based rigidity and the other in using coupling efficiencies (meaning lightweight stands, mostly based on tube or rod stock instead of hollow pipes).

The former kind of stand is common. You basically weld together two blocks of iron into a base plates, another two into a platform, and join them with a length of hollow pipe, which can be filled with sand or lead shot to absorb any movement on either plate. Then you use springs (spikes work the same way mechanically) to couple the speaker to the stand, and the stand to the floor. This is the basis for most designs of speaker stands, and the materials evolve though the fundamentals don't. Basically, this kind of stand absorbs all the vibration transmitted to it by the speaker (which is not all the energy of the cabinet walls, only the part that is coupled to the stand). Spikes ensure as much as energy is transferred as possible, and usually work better than Blu-tack or other methods.

The second kind are much more difficult to design, and AFAIK don't exist for most home situations. But since the AE5 are technically midfield speakers, they may work better with this kind of stand. Principally, the stand absorbs little to no vibrational energy, and transmits all of it to the underlying floor. The coupling of the speaker is basically not with the stand at all (at a mechanical/technical level, as the speaker is to be kept on the stand) but with the floor. The stand basically acts as a coupling rod. I am in the process of designing these stands for my own Dynaudios, using three lengths of threaded steel rod, a few heavy steel plates, and some nuts. The rod ends will basically carry the speaker and touch the floor at either end, the ends will be shaped into flattened spikes, and the base plates will ensure minimal lateral movement. The rods will be coupled to the plates using nuts. I would've posted designs but they're right now in my head only.

For now, I find professional tripod stands reasonable for use with a heavy base plate, though the amount of plastic in those stands do cause concerns at times. But for monitoring or causal use, they're fine. They cost me 3000/pr, plus a little extra for 1 inch thick glass base plates. They can carry 115 kilos each and are unconditionally stable, maids, pets and children included. They're just a couple of inches higher than I really need, which is probably their only shortcoming - in a proper studio the console would be raised above ground level anyway, whereas I live in an apartment.

Listening height - I don't really know. You have to listen to your speaker and figure out the right height. Some speakers are voiced for 5 degrees off axis balance, some for 15 degrees and some are meant to be listened to on axis. Plus users may prefer a little more exciting or a little more laid back sound. You need to set up the speakers and move your head in the vertical plane to find out the right listening height. For a wide-dispersion speaker like the Dynes, anywhere between 600 and 900 mm (height from floor) seems to work OK for me, they're currently set up at 850mm.
 
Sangram, you remember my granite stands? I think they would also directly couple the speaker to the floor, right? I'm somewhat confused over this coupling / decoupling business. :ashamed: Which is better? Or is that dependent on the speakers?
 
It depends on the speakers and your point of view. However,

Speakers that have a strong resonant structure generally work better with mass-based stands (which yours qualify as, since they use their weight as the basis of structural stability). Most consumer speakers fall in this type, except the really high end speakers (>3000 dollars) that have very little cabinet vibration. Studio monitors are a notable exception as a lot of attention is (or should be) paid to parasitic signatures that mess up imaging and tonal response. Most low end speakers exhibit one or two very strong resonant modes on their cabinet walls. Ideally one needs to measure this and use the stand to 'tune' out this frequency.

When speakers are acoustically dead and their sidewalls exhibit no parasitic modes, it's better to couple them to the floor, to ensure maximum performance. This is achieved with light weight (can be even made of aluminum) and high rigidity (achievable through shaping or pass-through).

In general the lower the mass of the stand, the lesser its ability to absorb any energy. Plastics defy this, but they are flexible and prone to movement, which is not so great a property. There are highly rigid modern composites that are light and rigid (such as carbon fiber), but those are outside the scope of this discussion. By this logic, your stands are of category 1 in my post above. Glass is a good material, but is very expensive and prone to shattering. Aluminum probably is the best material for this kind of stand, being light in weight and if you use extrusion or rod stock, very rigid in both planes. It is prone to ringing however, specially at audio frequencies, so steel rod is what I basically arrived at. Like all my projects though, it is sure to be well behind schedule, once the schedule is drawn up ;)
 
So, incase we want to decouple the speaker from the floor, we'll need a stand which is not completely rigid, so that it'll absorb the vibrations. Correct? :ashamed:
 
That's usually a futile exercise. Such a design goal will result in a flabby stand that moves with vibration. You need rigidity so the speaker does not move in any of the three axes of operation. That is pretty much a given in any speaker stand, and it would be foolish to create one that is not rigid.

Mass or the lack of it only defines the stand's ability to transmit motion from one end to the other. A massive stand will absorb, a light stand will transmit. That's about the only piece of freedom that the designer has.

If you want to decouple the speaker from the floor, you have to hang it from the ceiling. I'm serious, and there are extreme enthusiasts that actually do this. Another technique of decoupling is to create Infinite Baffle speakers, or double-walled speakers where the baffle of the driver is decoupled internally from the rest of the cabinet. Sony does this in their excellent X line of speakers, for example. But now we're OT, quite a long way. I'll need to post some pics for rPok, that will be tomorrow evening types.
 
thx sangram...will wait for your pictures. Any feedback on the cinder block kind of stand i mentioned before - if that'll work....
 
me using a cinderblock stand :lol: currently I have one block on a wooden table rather than making a complete stand using 2 like the article shows.

only thing that stopped me is that each block is 40 kilos so if i had 2 blocks as one stand i'd never be able to move it
 
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