Air conditioner Maintenance Tips
- Thread starter vijaycool
- Start date
Kaleen Bhaiya
Herald
Looks like 10K for 5 years according to LG India support website. Must be purchased with 30 days of product installation.
Kaleen Bhaiya
Herald
Can you share the link? I tried searching but couldn't find it.
And 5 years over what? The one year comprehensive warranty?
Just curious.. did you get your vacuuming completed?
And 5 years over what? The one year comprehensive warranty?
Just curious.. did you get your vacuuming completed?
Look under the AMC tab, prices are exclusive of GST, https://www.lg.com/in/support/warranty.
Yes, 5 years of total coverage. So, 1+4 I suppose.
There are other 3rd party services from OnsiteGo etc available, but I don't know how reliable they are.
Escalated to LG Service Head, they opened 2 tickets and nothing happened after that.
The AC is working fine, just worried about its long term health.
I use it at 40% @ 24C, even that gets too chilly.
Kaleen Bhaiya
Herald
Might be due to Covid situation... Wait for another 2-3 days, then raise another ticket.
Frankly, I am still thinking what could go wrong with an AC so as to factor in AMC. The major components are already covered, PCB, compressor.
Frankly, I am still thinking what could go wrong with an AC so as to factor in AMC. The major components are already covered, PCB, compressor.
rsaeon
Guide
Adding my own experience here, hopefully it'll be helpful.
I have an IFB 2 ton split ac that was purchased/installed three years ago. In that time we've only ever cleaned the filters and never had servicing done, mostly because we didn't want strangers entering a private area like the bedroom. A relative advised that servicing would help lower the power bill, so I looked up on YouTube on how it's usually done.
Basically for most indoor units, the plastic shell is held on by screws at the lower edge and rests on clips at the top edge. So you'd unscrew and lift up, taking care not to lift the actual unit off the wall. Some of the screws were immediately visible, others were hidden behind tiny flaps. I removed the shell, the louvers and disconnected the drain pipe. I also had to unscrew the swing motors from the louvers.
Before washing, I put on a servicing bag that I had purchased from Amazon for 900. There was a super thick layer of dust on the fins, so I sprayed a combination of Vanish and Colin and gently brushed it off with a soft toothbrush. Then I washed the fins with water. A pressure washer would have been far more effective, and maybe a stronger cleaning solution. I used about 60 liters of water on the fins and blower. There was still more to be done but my arms were getting tired. All of the disassembled parts were cleaned in the bathroom and then reassembled.
For subsequent servicing, I'll try using a foaming cleaner without disassembling the entire housing, by pouring water slowly over the fins and having it drain through the drain pipe.
Daily power consumption went down from 52.5 units per day to 38 at the same temperature settings.
It was definitely worth it.
I have an IFB 2 ton split ac that was purchased/installed three years ago. In that time we've only ever cleaned the filters and never had servicing done, mostly because we didn't want strangers entering a private area like the bedroom. A relative advised that servicing would help lower the power bill, so I looked up on YouTube on how it's usually done.
Basically for most indoor units, the plastic shell is held on by screws at the lower edge and rests on clips at the top edge. So you'd unscrew and lift up, taking care not to lift the actual unit off the wall. Some of the screws were immediately visible, others were hidden behind tiny flaps. I removed the shell, the louvers and disconnected the drain pipe. I also had to unscrew the swing motors from the louvers.
Before washing, I put on a servicing bag that I had purchased from Amazon for 900. There was a super thick layer of dust on the fins, so I sprayed a combination of Vanish and Colin and gently brushed it off with a soft toothbrush. Then I washed the fins with water. A pressure washer would have been far more effective, and maybe a stronger cleaning solution. I used about 60 liters of water on the fins and blower. There was still more to be done but my arms were getting tired. All of the disassembled parts were cleaned in the bathroom and then reassembled.
For subsequent servicing, I'll try using a foaming cleaner without disassembling the entire housing, by pouring water slowly over the fins and having it drain through the drain pipe.
Daily power consumption went down from 52.5 units per day to 38 at the same temperature settings.
It was definitely worth it.
You can try using APCC for washing with a paintbrush, which has long bristles which can get inside the fins
Proklear All Purpose Cleaner and Degreaser Concentrate (500ml) (APCC500) : Amazon.in: Health & Personal Care
Proklear All Purpose Cleaner and Degreaser Concentrate (500ml) (APCC500) : Amazon.in: Health & Personal Care
www.amazon.in
Pump sprayer to rinse it off
How much is the average life of a Split AC?
Mine is 6 years old now.
Used to work as good as new until my trusted technician sent his underling for gas leak repair during last year's lockdown. He welded the gap from where the gas was leaking and refilled the refrigerant. Idk what he did but new gaps appeared the next day itself. He welded again but gaps reappeared. Mf charged me for both the visits and still couldn't repair it properly.
Is this a recurring issue that anyone else faced? Time to dump it for good?
Mine is 6 years old now.
Used to work as good as new until my trusted technician sent his underling for gas leak repair during last year's lockdown. He welded the gap from where the gas was leaking and refilled the refrigerant. Idk what he did but new gaps appeared the next day itself. He welded again but gaps reappeared. Mf charged me for both the visits and still couldn't repair it properly.
Is this a recurring issue that anyone else faced? Time to dump it for good?
My oldest one is now on its thirteenth year and doing fine - an old LG 2-ton, 12-star unit (in 2008). Maybe 4-500 hours each year. Needed a new controller PCB in year 5, and wasn't able to cope with the heat load of a large, sunny room under a concrete roof after year 9. Now it's been relocated to a less demanding room and is still going great guns. Never needed a gas refill either.
N
NotMyRealName
Workmanship is a MAJOR issue in India, with everything from electronics, automobile repair and maintenance to split ACs being especially vulnerable. And depending on location and luck you may never even find a good repair guy.
If the leak is somewhere in the copper piping/joints connecting IDU and ODU, consider getting a new single piece pipe of the required length. Of course they can still mess up the flaring of the ends, from where slow leaks happen.
Also consider the fact that, a completely sealed, perfectly jointed spilt AC installation means no future income for the repair guys. So it could be intentional too rather than poor workmanship, which it most probably is though in your case.
Looks like you got a really good technician if you were able to recover all the gas without requiring filling even when relocating!
The shut-off is at the exit of the condensor instead of in the evaporator. This meant it was possible to have almost no gas inside the exit pipe (which is anyway a small volume because it's so narrow). Wasn't an issue.
Most technicians will shut off the flow pipes anyway before opening the joint and check the seals thoroughly before turning the flow back on. All leaks are usually due to improper joints, which isn't a problem with the right tools. The relocation was done by the technicians from Mitsubishi (which I bought to replace this) and they were rockstars at this job. Unfortunately they messed up the Mitsubishi install quite badly, so the shut-off valve is now outside the room.
And the room is the top floor with no way to reach the shut-off valve except a fifty-foot ladder, or a short rope hanging off the roof and a pair of stout hearts. That is actually how they did the installation
I was quite worried that I would need to call an ambulance. I didn't.
Most technicians will shut off the flow pipes anyway before opening the joint and check the seals thoroughly before turning the flow back on. All leaks are usually due to improper joints, which isn't a problem with the right tools. The relocation was done by the technicians from Mitsubishi (which I bought to replace this) and they were rockstars at this job. Unfortunately they messed up the Mitsubishi install quite badly, so the shut-off valve is now outside the room.
And the room is the top floor with no way to reach the shut-off valve except a fifty-foot ladder, or a short rope hanging off the roof and a pair of stout hearts. That is actually how they did the installation
I was quite worried that I would need to call an ambulance. I didn't.So should I get it repaired by finding another trusted guy or replace it?
Kaleen Bhaiya
Herald
Try to get it repaired from a trusted guy. If it becomes a recurring issue then probably a good time to get a new one.
blr_p
Northstar
Here is the correct way to do it.
He uses a digital micron pressure gauge that is around the Rs.13k mark. He advises against using compound refrigerant analog gauges as they just aren't precise enough.
He then places the gauge at the furthest point from the pump. And that must read below 500 microns. At the pump it has to read 50 microns before the furthest point is below 500 or target vacuum.
Recommends the use of pipes larger than 1/4" preferably closer to 3/4" as this can get the job done within five minutes. No manifold required.
And there is the 'good enough' way like this
Could at least stick the cheap Chinese gauges at the end instead of where the pump is.
Run the pump for 20 minutes to -30psi. Let it sit for an hour to check the meter does not go back or decay.
Now see how it gets done by local guys in this country
Video1 See where the gauge is
Video2 Same
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My LG AC was installed 2 years ago and stopped working yesteday, the LG support technician who visited today told me that the refridgerent gas (R32) was down to 25 PSI and had to be recharged, which costs 4K including labour. He told me the following issues could be been the cause and "fixed" the problem using some teflon tape on the connecting pipes of outdoor unit to prevent future leakage.
1) Mounting AC on the ground leads to more vibration hence gas leakage
2) Not using AC for long periods of time. (we use it only in summer)
None of this sounded logical to me and I was kind of surprised that the gas leaked from 140 to 25 PSI in 2 years with barely any use. I have a feeling I am being taken for a ride.
Any advice on how this can be prevented in future ?
1) Mounting AC on the ground leads to more vibration hence gas leakage
2) Not using AC for long periods of time. (we use it only in summer)
None of this sounded logical to me and I was kind of surprised that the gas leaked from 140 to 25 PSI in 2 years with barely any use. I have a feeling I am being taken for a ride.
Any advice on how this can be prevented in future ?
nRiTeCh
Northstar
Which city?
ACs near sea have these frequent issues.
1) You mean the Condenser, thats true in most cases. Its best to have it install ona wall on a stand.
2) is correct as most of us only use ACs only during summers and rest of the time its kept as a useless thing. So gas doesn't gets circulated/used and exhausts!
Bengaluru