OK i feel sorry for most of you lol. ok.. heres the deal. look for RMS power, at what THD. it will say something like " 10 watts RMS @ 10% THD " on the box.
ok i want to clarify something for you: 10% THD is TOTALLY unacceptable. THD stands for Total Harmonic Distortion ( like when you turn your boom box up all the way and it sounds terrible )
you want to find spekers with less than .1% THD at MOST. if you cant, take the 10% THD speakers, and devide their RMS power by 3/4 or 1/2 to get what power you will actually be able to use before distortion sets in.
another thing. peak power is the most power an amplifier can put out to a speaker. divide that in half to get your RMS power ( usually) so, a 100 watt amp can produce 50 watts RMS ( or continuous ) power to your speakers without any distortion. In usual music, take for instance my 120 watt per channel amp, i will usually only be running at 60 watts RMS with the amp at full crank, even though the peak indicator goes up to 120 every other second, its only peaking at 120. so its continous power is 60 watts most of the time, even though mine can do 100 watts rms @ only .09% THD.
THD is the main thing to look for on a pair of speakers. If their RMS rating is rated at 5% or 10% THD its probably wrong, their just trying to make you think a 60 watt RMS surround sound system can do 120 watts, when in reality it can only do 60 watts at horrible distortion.
another note: NEVER , i repeat, NEVER buy anything that says PMPO on it!!! that stands for Peak Music Power Output. it is NOT a real measurement and a bold faced lie. I have seen computer speakers that have 5 watt or even 2 watt amplifiers in them that are rated at "140 watts PMPO". Anything that says PMPO will usually be a cheaply built peice of junk, every part inside is the cheapest possible part to make, and its build durability ( and looks) will be very chincy. PMPO is just another sad way of getting unsuspecting buyers to buy their peice of junk computer speakers over the competition.
so the moral of the story is: pay attention to ONLY the RMS power, and make sure they dont rate that at 10% THD , if they do, divide that by 3/4 or 1/2 and that will be your real power output. Remember, RMS @ 10% THD is actually peak power.