CPU/Mobo Desktop Overheating and Shutting Down

Many dealers have workshops attached to their shops. Check with the dealer from whom you bought all this. I have seen the workshop of a couple of dealers in Kolkata where they assemble computers for customers. Once I got my processor checked by them when I bought it. You do not need a 600W PSU. a 400W PSU will do.

It will be a very rare occurence if the computer heats up this badly because of Thermal paste or bad cable management.
 
sankar_45 said:
Many dealers have workshops attached to their shops. Check with the dealer from whom you bought all this. I have seen the workshop of a couple of dealers in Kolkata where they assemble computers for customers. Once I got my processor checked by them when I bought it. You do not need a 600W PSU. a 400W PSU will do.

It will be a very rare occurence if the computer heats up this badly because of Thermal paste or bad cable management.
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If you say so, I will do that. I will tell the guy from whom I have bought this to TEST this thing. But lemme tell you that the Shop is a big one but has appointed a very messy guy who has this very old computer on which he tests things. But anyway! I have been to him 3 times, lets do it one more time. :(

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But if anyone has got any other solution or a Tweak, please help me out. I really don't want to carry it all the way to the Repair Shop 25KMS away from my place.

Also I will post certain other things suggested by other members :)
 
sankar_45 said:
The ideal solution would be for another member to help you out in this. You can post your location and request for help.
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This sounds practical and cool to be very honest. Even I think I need some expert advice and someone who can look into this. New Delhi is where I put up.
 
mohakg27 said:
This sounds practical and cool to be very honest. Even I think I need some expert advice and someone who can look into this. New Delhi is where I put up.
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Do not worry, we will help you solve it here. Ideally the fan on the HSF, should be the other way round. It should be directed: That it pulls air from the front, and blows it out (over the fins) and out the cabinet. So spin that around. Also the cabinet cable management is messy. Tidy it up, or use cable ties. Get us hte CoreTemp dump. Did you see the technician apply TIM...? How did he do it.
 
mohakg27 said:
The Cooler Master 212 EVO CPU Cooler is placed like its throwing air to the Back Exhaust Fan and the Back Exhaust Fan is throwing the air out of the Case. I know Cable Management is messy and I really don't have any idea how to set it right. I think I cannot do this thing. Seriously I cannot do this one. :(
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Mohak, get over this fear of not capable.

Cable management is a straight forward task; not too complicated until you decide to make it so. It like trying to do up your book shelf OR table till it looks presentable to all.

And you cannot mess up with wrong connections because they will fit only in their appropriate sockets.

Here are a few guides -->


HARDOCP - Awe-Inspiring PC Cable Management / HOW TO GUIDE: Cable manage your ROG PC.

Hope this helps, Cheerio!

As has been told by @asingh Sire, flip the fan to the other side of the heat-sink tower, so that it is in a proper Pusher position, right now it is not optimally placed.
 
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I have the same cooler. When you have one fan it should be on the other side near the RAM. Only when you have Push/Pull set up, you have the fan on the other side. Though this some times interferes with the RAM, I have not seen any advice about placing the Fan on the other side like you have done. Change the fan to other side and see. It pulls the air from outside and throw them over the finns. Just check up. Does not take much time.
 
^ @asingh : he's posted the delta from Coretemp. His idle temps were about 44C, and load temps were 87C. Considering the Tjmax is 90C, thats not ideal.

Re-orient the heatsink fan like asingh said. Cross-check the direction of airflow for all the other fans as well like in the pic below. Blue = fans, grey = heatsink, black = cabinet.

To help you identify the direction of the airflow, look for the arrows on the casing of the fan :


Does Fan1 RPM in Speedfan correspond to the RPM of this heatsink fan. You can test it by briefly unplugging the fan and checking if the RPM drops to 0.

Cable management is messy but your cabby isn't that cramped for it to obstruct airflow. I don't think its the main issue.
 
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Crazy_Eddy said:
he's posted the delta from Coretemp. His idle temps were about 44C, and load temps were 87C. Considering the Tjmax is 90C, thats not ideal.
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Yea, I saw that. From 22C-82C. It depends how fast he is reaching there. If it is a sudden whoop....it means that his TIM is incorrect, and if he is gradually reaching those high delta's it would show a bad CPU (over heating); or some other problem in there. For sure he is getting throttled, we need to figure out the cause.
 
ALPHA17 said:
Mohak, get over this fear of not capable.

Cable management is a straight forward task; not too complicated until you decide to make it so. It like trying to do up your book shelf OR table till it looks presentable to all.

And you cannot mess up with wrong connections because they will fit only in their appropriate sockets.

Here are a few guides -->


HARDOCP - Awe-Inspiring PC Cable Management / HOW TO GUIDE: Cable manage your ROG PC.

Hope this helps, Cheerio!

As has been told by @asingh Sire, flip the fan to the other side of the heat-sink tower, so that it is in a proper Pusher position, right now it is not optimally placed.
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OK Alpha! I'm just doing it. I'll see the video and do it accordingly. Also I will change the Cooler Fan Position. So this means that I have set it in such a way that the Cooler Fan throws air on the Cooler(The Main Silver Box) and the rest will be taken out by Back Exhaust Fan. Right?

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sankar_45 said:
I have the same cooler. When you have one fan it should be on the other side near the RAM. Only when you have Push/Pull set up, you have the fan on the other side. Though this some times interferes with the RAM, I have not seen any advice about placing the Fan on the other side like you have done. Change the fan to other side and see. It pulls the air from outside and throw them over the finns. Just check up. Does not take much time.
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Oh yeah! This RAM hint was super cool. I was getting confused. Thanks. I'll just do it :D

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Crazy_Eddy said:
^ @asingh : he's posted the delta from Coretemp. His idle temps were about 44C, and load temps were 87C. Considering the Tjmax is 90C, thats not ideal.

Re-orient the heatsink fan like asingh said. Cross-check the direction of airflow for all the other fans as well like in the pic below. Blue = fans, grey = heatsink, black = cabinet.

To help you identify the direction of the airflow, look for the arrows on the casing of the fan :


Does Fan1 RPM in Speedfan correspond to the RPM of this heatsink fan. You can test it by briefly unplugging the fan and checking if the RPM drops to 0.

Cable management is messy but your cabby isn't that cramped for it to obstruct airflow. I don't think its the main issue.
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Awesome Diagram! This can help a lot. I'm a noob so thanks for such detailed explanation. I'm just doing it now. On to it.

After I'm done will also let you know if Fan1 is for Heatsink or not. :) Thanks! Will get back soon :)

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asingh said:
Yea, I saw that. From 22C-82C. It depends how fast he is reaching there. If it is a sudden whoop....it means that his TIM is incorrect, and if he is gradually reaching those high delta's it would show a bad CPU (over heating); or some other problem in there. For sure he is getting throttled, we need to figure out the cause.
Click to expand...

This Temperature jump is sudden. By sudden I mean 15 minutes. In 15 minutes, from COOL it becomes VOLCANIC HOT. Every time I do the BurnIn Test (The Stress Test), the Systems goes for a six and Shuts Down thus failing the test. It cannot be pushed to its maximum limit. Thats why when I game, it again goes for a six.

I play Battlefield3 for 15 minutes and Kaboooom! It shuts down.

OK! One thing more. When I play games, the temps go really high, but the moment I Quit the game and do normal computing once again. The Temps come down real fast. Its like in 2 minutes the system cools down as if there was no such overheating. Ain't it a lil strange? Or is it normal?
 
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mohakg27 said:
OK Alpha! I'm just doing it. I'll see the video and do it accordingly. Also I will change the Cooler Fan Position. So this means that I have set it in such a way that the Cooler Fan throws air on the Cooler(The Main Silver Box) and the rest will be taken out by Back Exhaust Fan. Right?

This Temperature jump is sudden. By sudden I mean 15 minutes. In 15 minutes, from COOL it becomes VOLCANIC HOT. Every time I do the BurnIn Test (The Stress Test), the Systems goes for a six and Shuts Down thus failing the test.

OK! One thing more. When I play games, the temps go really high, but the moment I Quit the game and do normal computing once again. The Temps come down real fast. Its like in 2 minutes the system cools down as if there was no such overheating. Ain't it a lil strange? Or is it normal?
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Yep, please do and let us know how it pans out.

Thank @Crazy_Eddy for the excellent diagram about fan orientation.

If replacing the TIM did not OR does not cure the problem then you have most likely got to replace your processor (RMA). Sudden spike in temperatures is not an issue but the level of the spike is the problem factor.
 
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ALPHA17 said:
Yep, please do and let us know how it pans out.

Thank @Crazy_Eddy for the excellent diagram about fan orientation.

If replacing the TIM did not OR does not cure the problem then you have most likely got to replace your processor (RMA). Sudden spike in temperatures is not an issue but the level of the spike is the problem factor.
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Right now I'm doing this Cable Management thing. Watching the video and then will do it. Then will change the position of the CPU Cooler Fan. After I have done these 2 things will post it. If still no luck then will go tomorrow to Nehru Place to buy the TIM.

Oh Yes! Can you please tell me what EXACTLY I have to ask the shopkeeper? I mean the name of the TIM or the exact Compound or Brand. So that I buy the exact same thing. :)
 
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mohakg27 said:
Oh Yes! Can you please tell me what EXACTLY I have to ask the shopkeeper? I mean the name of the TIM or the exact Compound or Brand. So that I buy the exact same thing. :)
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These three TIM's should be easily found (locally) --
  • Cooler Master HTK 002, here is how it looks --> i-coolermaster-pasta-termoprzewodzaca-htk-002-u1-gp.jpg
  • Cooler Master Thermal Fusion 400, here is how it is packed --> Cooler-Master-Thermal-Fusion-400-Grease-Buy-Online-Big.jpg
  • Arctic Silver 5, packaging --> 403502-a.jpg
Hope this helps, Cheerio!
 
ALPHA17 said:
Mohak, get over this fear of not capable.

Cable management is a straight forward task; not too complicated until you decide to make it so. It like trying to do up your book shelf OR table till it looks presentable to all.

And you cannot mess up with wrong connections because they will fit only in their appropriate sockets.

Here are a few guides -->


HARDOCP - Awe-Inspiring PC Cable Management / HOW TO GUIDE: Cable manage your ROG PC.

Hope this helps, Cheerio!

As has been told by @asingh Sire, flip the fan to the other side of the heat-sink tower, so that it is in a proper Pusher position, right now it is not optimally placed.
Click to expand...

One more thing. This video you posted is of CM HAF 922 but I have CM 335U Elite which does not a have a cable management. People have space behind their MOBOs but I dont have this space. I'm still wondering how I'm gonna do it. Mustering courage to do it and the heart says "Mohak, don't do it". But since you guys have helped me a lot, its time time to help myself too. Thank you :D I will do it.

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ALPHA17 said:
These three TIM's should be easily found (locally) --
Hope this helps, Cheerio!
Click to expand...

Alrighty! So I can buy any of them right? Cool! First thing tomorrow is Nehru Place and TIM.
 
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If it is taking 15 minutes to cook up, I doubt cable management or a re-TIM is going to make a drastic differential (unless TIM was not used at all). Highly probable you have a bad core and it is just over heating. Try out the re-TIM, not a big waste of time or effort or money.
 
mohakg27 said:
One more thing. This video you posted is of CM HAF 922 but I have CM 335U Elite which does not a have a cable management. People have space behind their MOBOs but I dont have this space. I'm still wondering how I'm gonna do it. Mustering courage to do it and the heart says "Mohak, don't do it". But since you guys have helped me a lot, its time time to help myself too. Thank you :D I will do it.
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Do not buy Arctic Silver 5. It takes 200 hours for setting.

Buy either

Cooler Master HTK 002

Cooler Master Thermal Fusion 400

Please ensure that you remove the existing Thermal paste completely before applying the new one. Isopropyl Alcohol is the best. It is not available easily. I used to borrow a small quantity from my computer service center. They use it for cleaning the lens of cd drives. You could use Nail Polish Remover. But recently Isopropyl Alcohol has become available under tha name Isopropyl. It is called Mobile circuit Cleaner. Check it out. Clean the Processor and the Cooler thoroughly with it. Use a cotton bud.

Apply the thermal paste both on the processor and the cooler. Just a thin layer. Use a credit card to get a even, thin spread. ThermalFusion 400 talks about easy Application with Included Razor Blade.
Cooler Master HTK 002 talks about "Produces an even layer when using applicator".

Cable management:

Plese see this discussion.

http://www.techenclave.com/overclocking-n-modding/help-cable-management-74972/

You will need a number of cable ties. Enquire and get them. Please let me know whether you are able to get Cable Tie Adhesive Mounts. I would like to buy some.
 
sankar_45 said:
Do not buy Arctic Silver 5. It takes 200 hours for setting.

Buy either

Cooler Master HTK 002

Cooler Master Thermal Fusion 400

Apply the thermal paste both on the processor and the cooler. Just a thin layer. Use a credit card to get a even, thin spread. ThermalFusion 400 talks about easy Application with Included Razor Blade.
Cooler Master HTK 002 talks about "Produces an even layer when using applicator".
Click to expand...

Between the three options the Arctic Silver has a break-in period but performs well after that and more importantly once applied does not need to be replaced till you break the contact between the paste and the surface(s). The latter two are silicone based compounds and will need to be replaced once in a year at-least, lest they get dry.

You do not need any specific compound to get the residue off the processor, you can use alcohol based cleaners, disinfectants, deodorant and drinking alcohol to clear the old thermal paste from the CPU IHS and heat-sink contact plate. I myself prefer after-shave.
 
ALPHA17 said:
Between the three options the Arctic Silver has a break-in period but performs well after that and more importantly once applied does not need to be replaced till you break the contact between the paste and the surface(s). The latter two are silicone based compounds and will need to be replaced once in a year at-least, lest they get dry.

You do not need any specific compound to get the residue off the processor, you can use alcohol based cleaners, disinfectants, deodorant and drinking alcohol to clear the old thermal paste from the CPU IHS and heat-sink contact plate. I myself prefer after-shave.
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dangerous. Many cleaners contain water. After shaves do not even mention ingredients on the bottle. Electrolytes in dust mixed with water can become conducting and at the wrong place cause damage to the hardware. If using such liquids, thorough cleaning of the motherboard before and after the cleaning activity is necessary. Liquids bought at a medical store have the advantage of specifying exact ingredients and one can decide based on any conducting liquid content. So you can look for spirit used for wound cleaning after checking ingredients.
 
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