Guide DIY Printed Circuit board Making

DIY Printed Circuit board Making.

Printed circuit board or PCB has its vital role in today’s high-tech life. From TV to toys from Computer to mobile, all electrons work with a PCB inside. Commonly a PCB is made up of a fiber board with copper tracks to join different electronic components together so that they can acts as a single unit or circuit. A PCB can have from a single layer of copper connection used in common electronics like toys, in pc mouse etc, or can have up to seven connection layers in single PCB used in Computer motherboard or mobile phone PCB.
Today by this small tutorial I like to share with you the most common process of DIY PCB making at your home. I came to know this process in my school time, but one can Google and find many process of PCB making. Secondly I adopted this process because it’s very easy and low in resources. There is no proper name for this process but generally it’s called “Laser print PCB etchingâ€.
As the name says a laser printout is etched on a blank PCB.
Items needed:
1. PC and a Laser Printer (to design and printout the circuit layout).
2. Toner Transfer Paper (to transfer the toner layout on to the PCB).
3. Blank PCB.
4. Hex blade, zero no. sandpaper and files (to cut the desire piece of PCB, polish and file the rough surface).
5. Lamination Machine.
6. Ferric Chloride and Iso-Propanol.
7. Plastic washing tray and brushes.
8. Drill bits to drill holes on to the PCB for component placement.
Few WARNIGS:-
1. Be very care full when using cutting or drilling tools. If you are not familiar with these tools better get help from a professional.
2. Be very-very careful when working with CHEMICALS. Try not to come in direct contact with the chemical, if so immediately wash the effected body part with lot of running water.
3. For eching process FeCl3 solution is needed. When adding H20 to FeCl3, fumes of HCL is releases which is harmful when inhaled.
Now let’s get started. In this tutorial I am making a 4-channel Fan Controller.
Initial circuit design and layout is done.
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Now printing the layout on to the toner transfer paper.
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Now cutting the blank PCB.
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Now use sand paper to make the PCB clean and shiny.
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Role the PCB and printout through the lamination machine, this will stick the paper onto the PCB. Now leave the PCB in soap water for an hour and then genteelly peel off the paper. Now PCB has only toner in the form of the circuit layout.
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Now it’s time to bring the chemicals in action.
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Add some distilled water in a plastic tray. (USE ONLY CHEMICAL DISTILLED WATER) battery water has some acid properly.
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Now add FeCl3 powder.
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Hot exothermic reaction, HCL fumes are librated.
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Drop the PCB in.
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Leave it for an Hour.
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Look carefully Fecl3 is eating the copper.
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After etching only toner is left.
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Clean the PCB with Iso-Propanol.
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This removes the toner and shiny copper tracks are left.
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it’s time to drill some holes. I am using 1mm drill bit and a DC motor for this job.
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Done. Your PCB is now ready to be fitted with the components.
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All assembled and undergo testing. Seems everything is fine and the circuit is working perfectly.
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Some pics of final product.
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This finishes my tutorial. Hope you like it.
I have tried my best to put this tutorial in good shape, but still please ignore any mistakes.
Thanking
Rakesh Sharma
 
Well at the time of making this guide, i have not created any video or pics of soldering work. So your request cannot be full filled this time, but may be i will remember this in some other guide.

Any way thanks for your kind suggestion.

HailStonE said:
Now some pics of soldering the components would be added bonus. Better yet if you can make & upload a video... ;)
 
Great guide man

--- Updated Post - Automerged ---

archat68 said:
Excellent guide.

I found out that the best paper to use for this is the silicone coated paper that you find on the backside of stickers. I get those A4 size printable stickers - peel off the back paper and use it.

You can also use an electric iron instead of the laminating machine - i use one and it gives good result.

Also to clean the copper clad board you can use scotch brite and dishwash liquid - wash it thoroughly and let it dry. Don't touch the copper surface after cleaning - handle by edges only.

Also, you can use a mixture of Hydrochloric acid (Muriatic acid - used for cleaning toilets) and Hydrogen Peroxide for etching the PCB. Benefit is it does not stain like FeCl3 and also is less corrosive. Also the mixture being clear, you can watch the etching process clearly. If you pass air bubbles through the Hydrochloric acid Hydrogen peroxide mixture while etching (by a small aquarium air pump) the etching process will be faster.
Please mention the proportion of mixture of Hydrochloric Acid + Hydrogen Peroxide. Is it 1:1?
 
Basicaly no difference,, just more inproved circuit.. One can edit the circuit to + - Fans numbers..

Yes you can use anything to drill holes as for what you feel comfortable...
 
Actually forgot the measurments.....

Take few prints of the Circuit layout, till you get proper Size .. (Align parts over the printout till you get best alignment)

Now take the measurment from Central pin to pin distance of nobs..
 
tried out a single controller on a perfboard and it works great!

it should suffice to power high speed delta fans too?also,i was testing it using a 80mm ADDA fan,and noticed the fan has a bit of a whine in the lower speed region?or is it just the fan's fault?have you noticed anything like this?

also,when the knob is turned to the maximum,the fan runs at low speeds but does not turn off.is it correct?

--- Updated Post - Automerged ---

tried out a single controller on a perfboard and it works great!
it should suffice to power high speed delta fans too?also,i was testing it using a 80mm ADDA fan,and noticed the fan has a bit of a whine in the lower speed region?or is it just the fan's fault?have you noticed anything like this?
also,when the knob is turned to the maximum,the fan runs at low speeds but does not turn off.is it correct?
 
The MOSFET used in the circuit is IRFZ44 which can handle 40+ amp of current ,, but need heat sink accordingly.... one can use 2amp fan with very small heat sink or no sink too.....

Turning knob to min. will result in voltage drop not complete voltage cutout... so fan will run on low speed..

If you want to Turn fan On/off you can replace the Jumper with any On/off swich.
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Rakesh Sharma
 
completed the controller,made an acrylic case for it too.the circuit is based on the one you have posted on page 2.but,now,i have a new issue.whenever i connect multiple fans and try to run all of them at ~100%,the rpm's of all the fans drops by a lot.they dont run at full speed.why is that?

also,the mosfets get quite hot too.issue with the mosfets?

how can i overcome these issues?
 
nice work.. i would like to add a couple of things -

1. Use a free PCB designing software like KiCAD to design your boards to the exact size and specifications you need.

2. Instead of removing the toner from the entire board, remove it only from the pads where soldering needs to be done. This will protect the copper trace from getting oxidized. An oxidized copper trace will introduce unwanted resistance into the circuit and can completely fail a circuit.

Deepak
 
surajspai said:
completed the controller,made an acrylic case for it too.the circuit is based on the one you have posted on page 2.but,now,i have a new issue.whenever i connect multiple fans and try to run all of them at ~100%,the rpm's of all the fans drops by a lot.they dont run at full speed.why is that?
also,the mosfets get quite hot too.issue with the mosfets?
how can i overcome these issues?

Have you connected many fans to single MOSFET or what..? Second MOSFET are not 100% efficient so at max you will face some voltage drop .. For full 12 volts at max you need to power the controller with 14-15v DC...
Which fans you are using.. what's total load on single MOSFET.?
 
thanks for the reply,

i forgot to factor the mosfet voltage drop,thats why its not full speed.

i have connected only one fan to one mosfet.

i have 2 delta afb1212hhe fans-0.8A.load on the mosfet-9.6W.and 2 delta wfb-0.45A.load on single mosfet-5.4w.after some time,i touched the mosfets,they were very hot to touch,after running for like 6 minutes

then,i tried with 4 ADDA 80mm fans,0.25A,this time,it took longer to reach a high temperature.

i have cut some heatsinks and attached them to the mosfets,let me try again.
 
Load seems not much to heatup the MOSFET so high...

Can be Fack or poor yield MOSFETs.. Try one or two MOSFETs from some other shop.. Or heat sink can help...But if temperature is still very hot then reply me with a pic...

--- Updated Post - Automerged ---

Please check like MOSFET are hot or VERY-VERY hot.. since IRFZ44 have peak temp of 175C and operating on about 40-80c is normal for it..
 
the get quite hot,not extremely hot though.will have to try running a bit longer,only thing is,i am afraid if it burns and shorts the pc,or something like that.
 
Hot even after using some Heatsink..????? Just PM me few pictures let me check...

One controllor is running at my PC with no problem,,just add good heatsinks.
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