CPU/Mobo E350N : Should I worry ? High temperature scare !

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^ thanks a lot CA50 and other for your suggestions .

Alright I did know something called ventilation existed since a long time but came to know of its true effect in last few days only .

Someone told me that maximum I could expect by using fan was a 5 deg C drop in full load temperatures and how right he was ! .

I put two cooler master 80 mm fans and it has an instant effect but at a cost , my build is no longer HTPC silent ! .

I will have to live with this noise , thats the compromise I would have to make .

Now I tried different fan configurations but strangely It works much better this way ,

One fan on the cabinet top ( Circle LIL - thin cabinet . ) which is not much distance from the cpu and one on the side panel just above the CPU . Both the side blow air outside the cabinet . Thats how its working best ,

On one video I saw there should be equal no of intake and outward blowing fans . But when I put the top fan as inward flowing and side fan as outward flowing , it simply had no effect !! . It was as equal as having a single fan on the top blowing outward .

Now some of you might think that the top fan as using as inward flowing might sound strange because hot air rises and in a way am blowing the same hot air on the cpu again . But I can only manipulate the position of the top fan , cabinet Only option is outward flowing .

Now my reasoning was that if the top fan is inward flowing and side panel fan is outward , it will create a continuous flow in a 90deg angular way , hope I could explain what I meant . But it did not work out .

Now I have to put both of them blowing outward which would bring in cool air passively from below but also dust .

I could not put a fan below because my wire routing is in such a way the the flow will be totally blocked .

I also bought the MX-2 which I will apply later , if anyone would like to know I would put up the results after experimenting a lot ofcourse .

Which is the best way to apply MX-2 . I read that all manufacturers recommend a different methods and there are loads of methods out there . I could not find it on my packet . Can someone please mention the correct method .

Thanks and hope my long posts dont bother , I would want to help other E350N users who are noobs like me and hope it helps in some way .
 
Don't bother with Ventilation, especially since the CPU/chipset is the only hot component in your system. Spot cooling i.e. aiming your fans towards the heatsink would bring about the most difference. Think about it this way.. you feel cool only when you stand right in front of a fan blowing air.

The only challenge would be mounting it (it need not be bringing in fresh air either). If your 80mm fan uses a 3-pin header, you could look at mounting your 80mm fan right on top of the heatsink itself and swap it with the 40mm fan's 3-pin header. Else stringing it up with zip ties to the drive cage might be closest, but its hard to say without seeing a layout of your cabinet.

Applying thermal paste is pretty easy. Your goal should be to maximise metal to metal contact, so your thermal paste should be minimal and only fill the microscopic gaps. Even then its hard to apply too much, since your heatsink will just force it out anyway once its clamped on tight. Just apply a tiny drop and spread it around. If you suffer from OCD, you could use a plastic piece like a credit card to smoothly spread it out. Then mount the heatsink - dont screw it in yet, jiggle it around so the paste spreads evenly - then tighten the screws.

Start with the thermal paste first to see what effects it has, since I'm curious too.
 
itzmydamnlyf said:
try this

http://www.primeabgb...emart&Itemid=54

i think the Rs. 50 normal thermal paste is the culprit. Try to get the Arctic MX-2 from primeabgb and reseat the system well and yes don't apply too much thermal paste. Thats no good at all.

Mx-2 isn't much costly and should be fine for you. Use Doctor's spirit which you get in a local chemist shop to remove the previous paste. Don't worry you haven't spoilt the system. Afer applying MX-2 let the system run for few hours for the thermal paste to work effectively which is called the curing time.

You are not doing anything wrong. As people have mentioned here you can look into attaching another fan. This definitely will make a lot of difference to the temperature.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for suggesting me the MX-2 , it changed things for me but I ll see the long term effects and report here .

Crazy_Eddy said:
Don't bother with Ventilation, especially since the CPU/chipset is the only hot component in your system. Spot cooling i.e. aiming your fans towards the heatsink would bring about the most difference. Think about it this way.. you feel cool only when you stand right in front of a fan blowing air.

The only challenge would be mounting it (it need not be bringing in fresh air either). If your 80mm fan uses a 3-pin header, you could look at mounting your 80mm fan right on top of the heatsink itself and swap it with the 40mm fan's 3-pin header. Else stringing it up with zip ties to the drive cage might be closest, but its hard to say without seeing a layout of your cabinet.

Applying thermal paste is pretty easy. Your goal should be to maximise metal to metal contact, so your thermal paste should be minimal and only fill the microscopic gaps. Even then its hard to apply too much, since your heatsink will just force it out anyway once its clamped on tight. Just apply a tiny drop and spread it around. If you suffer from OCD, you could use a plastic piece like a credit card to smoothly spread it out. Then mount the heatsink - dont screw it in yet, jiggle it around so the paste spreads evenly - then tighten the screws.

Start with the thermal paste first to see what effects it has, since I'm curious too.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your time .

You are such an experienced person , my noobish observations and conclusions might not be correct so feel free to correct me anytime , dont think am giving you some advice ,am talking general , I ll try to put my experience .

Point taken , I had the same thing in mind so had put two fans , one on top of the heatsink and one at the side ( in this case the top of the cabinet . ) . But instead of throwing air at the CHS , they are taking out air .

One fan is very close to the CHS . It is impossible to try and stick a 80 mm fan on the CHS even with zip tie's .

A good performance 40mm fan would help but I couldnt find them at any place any shop in lamington , infact roadside fan guys had 40 mm fans
<
but no better than gigabyte has already given . I have removed it and seen it's effects . It has no real effect !! , hardly some 1-2 deg of difference that also sometimes only . I also felt physically that it hardly pumped any air and HWMonitor showed it running at 4000 rpm ,

I dont have a cam at all , mobile I got has 2mp pathetic cam but I will try and do something to put up the pics .

As for the performance of MX-2 , So far am OK with how it's working but I should not jump to conclusions and will take a day and tell you how well it really works because thats how I work , I ll give the paste some time
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. But trust me so far from my experience , it doesnt work like its marketed . Arctic Cooling shows graphs of tests showing it to be better than AS5 and yet sell AS5 at a higher price , only for the repo AS5 has earned for itself , hard to believe . It was always hard for me to believe as AS5 has silver in it , the best conductor of heat .

The main USP I would say is that performance / gm is worth it . Way better than those cheapo injections . But I dont really think you need so many grams unless you're continuously tinkering . If I had known before I might have gone for the AS5 but no regrets.

The best performance comes in the lower average load conditions ( 15-50 % load ) . Here it shines , no rapid temperature rise as compared to the cheap zp compound . Frankly I dont know If I should criticize the cheap zp compound so just comparing it with the MX-2 here , I feel that cheap compounds would be doing their job in relatively cooler CPU's .

Back to MX-2 , in the upper load conditions ( 50-85 ) , the temperatures get close to Max load temperatures , only a couple of deg away . Then at full load it maxes out at a point .

Sometimes in the upper range of load conditions it jumps a couple of seconds to higher than max load temperatures so hence I am trying to take the averages like it should be done according to a professional review I read .

So in all till now , no real difference in Idle temperature compared to cheap TIM but doesnt jump to higher temperatures on the press of a button instantly , stays close to idle temps .

In low range it performs beautifully .

In upper range it climbs rapidly .

Maxes out at highest usage , obvious .

Also this paste is again marketed to not have a curing time . It has instant effects , true ! but over the day it got a bit better .

So if not curing time , I dont know what time we will call it , the interval in which I might give its best performance .

Sorry for the extremely long post . I will report more on the paste tomorrow or day after . Prime95 is on currently .

I would end this by saluting the worth CM 80mm fans , they are definitely better than those Rs 50 fans . You might say I can get 3 of those cheapo fans and they together would beat the one CM fan red and blue .

True , but for someone who has limited no of spaces and not on the NOCTUA kind of budget , the CM are better . Between Yea i had those Rs50 fans also so I am well in a position to compare both , but dismantled them to see how a fan is from inside as they were anyways usless according to me .

Thanks for your time and If any inconvenience to anyone , apologize . Thanks to all those who gave their valuable suggestions .

Cheers
 
Alright as i promised , about the MX-2 .

It is highly dependent on the room temperature , so if it gets hot outside , load temps rise by 3-4 deg C

if its cool , the same thing . What I am trying to say is it fluctuates heavily with room temp .

It's a decent VFM paste , I dont know about others but i experienced only 3-4 deg C drop .

One more guy on some thread I can't recollect reported similar 3-4 deg drop on some intel processor .

I was surprised by the drop I got by proper placement and using good fans . Came to know that ventilation is such an important phenomenon
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. Also air flow direction or dynamics also changes things drastically , a certain orientation of fans which is my best gave me 6 deg Drop and other was 1 deg , pathetic drop .

Is TX-2 better than MX-2 ?

Cheerio

Those who want to build HTPC , please keep in mind about ventilation and different fan orientations .

And buy a good cabinet .
 
What case are you using? Try using a case with better airflow. Even in the tiny antec that I have, I've never seen temperatures higher than 50 no matter what I do. I have 2 80mm antec tricool fans blowing across the fusion heatsink.

Please try and clean up any dust and make sure there's atleast an 80mm blowing on the heatsink and that there's cross airflow. Cable management will help as well.

If all else fails, try removing the heatsink, remove whatever paste there is and put AS5 or something similar.
 
Have you tried playing around in the bios and setting stuff up manually ?

Get a cpu stress program like Prime 95 get into your bios and start dropping your vcore to the point of instability, set it up stable you should be able to do that at a setting lower than whatever the board is setting on auto. You should get decent improvements in thermals depending on how much you are able to drop it 10*C drop in temp can be easily achieved I think but it also depends on how good the HSF you are using is.
 
Gentleman thanks a lot for your replies .

Chaos said:
What case are you using? Try using a case with better airflow. Even in the tiny antec that I have, I've never seen temperatures higher than 50 no matter what I do. I have 2 80mm antec tricool fans blowing across the fusion heatsink.

Please try and clean up any dust and make sure there's atleast an 80mm blowing on the heatsink and that there's cross airflow. Cable management will help as well.

If all else fails, try removing the heatsink, remove whatever paste there is and put AS5 or something similar.
Click to expand...

I am using Circle Capsule LIL cabinet . What software are you using to monitor the temperatures ? .

Also are you using the Gigabyte E350N or MSI or Asus ? .

Antek Case might be of Aluminium or might be optimized for such purposes .

Already Using Arctic MX-2.

My system is just two months old and I put this MX-2 some days ago only . So everything is clean , no problems of dust or bad cable management . All cables well sorted .

Also have you changed anything in the bios as Mr Zlyod told ? .

Those are awesome temperatures you are getting , I can only dream of those
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.

Zloyd said:
Have you tried playing around in the bios and setting stuff up manually ?

Get a cpu stress program like Prime 95 get into your bios and start dropping your vcore to the point of instability, set it up stable you should be able to do that at a setting lower than whatever the board is setting on auto. You should get decent improvements in thermals depending on how much you are able to drop it 10*C drop in temp can be easily achieved I think but it also depends on how good the HSF you are using is.
Click to expand...

I have Prime95 , am not really experienced in lowering the Vcore and feel that I might damaged some part in doing so !

Isnt the auto function the best option ? . I mean the core gets the Voltages as per its need .

The max voltage is 1.33 and the minimum that my HWmonitor shows me is 1.06 which seems quite low .

so Max Voltage : 1.33 and Minimum : 1.06 .

If I lower the voltage manually , wont I starve the CPU at high loads ? .

Thanks
 
Here are my core temp screenies. Ignore the CPU clock - its a mistake. However the voltage is correct.

The first one is idle, second one is under prime 95 load.

surUt.png


ENUUo.png
 
#chaos

Thanks a ton .

My first purchase of Gigabyte has been crappy . I should have never gone with gigabyte, For the MSI the guys were quoting a whole 1500 more so I thought its not worth it but now I say it is . Even after so much efforts , reapplying TIM and proper cooling , the temperatures after tinkering cant beat your stock setting temperatures .

Even after removing the side panel , I am not able to reach this kind of temperatures .

I will upload my screenshots in some time . Hope after some months my board doesnt fry in the summer
<


At what freq are you using the RAM ?

1066 or 1033 ?
 
@Chaos , auto settings the MB sets it to general all chips will run at voltage. You can try dropping it a couple of notches at a time, its total guess work on my end but im sure if auto is setting it to 1.3v you should easily be able to manage 1.25v with stability. You will know in P95 if the voltage is too low because the chip will not get enough power and your pc will blue screen.

I suggest dropping it to 1.275 or there abouts first run P95 for a couple of hours then drop it to 1.25 repeat. When you blue screen go back to the last voltage setting that you could run P95 for a couple of hours and run P95 for a longer period of time ... 6 hours should be enough imo.
 
^^I'm too lazy to do all that for a rig that only plays movies. Especially cos its running within perfectly acceptable temperatures. I'm gonna get rid of the fusion board soon anyway.

For my main rig, I did do the same until I got a stable 4.5GHz on an i5 2500K.
 
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