IC : Electronic Project Kits, components, Tools, Instruments

  • Notice: Market Section Posting Privileges

    Dear Guest,

    We appreciate your interest in participating in the Marketplace. To maintain a safe and reliable trading environment, posting privileges are granted only to users who meet the following criteria:

    • Minimum 25 forum posts in technical sections
    • Account age of at least 30 days

    Alternatively, you can gain accelerated access by upgrading to Enclave Plus Membership, which includes additional perks and privileges.

    If you have any questions or wish to learn more about becoming an Enclave Plus member, please feel free to reach out to us using the 'contact us' form in the footer..

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hello,

Do you know where I can get meters like Kill-A-Watt usable with Indian plugs and sockets? I want something which can show both the energy usage rate in watts as well the energy usage over a prolonged period in kWh for an appliance plugged in through it.
 
sangram said:
Yup. Enclosures, cabinets, racks, stands, isolators, that sort of stuff.

@Amarbir: I use (or rather don't use) a unbranded hot-air station. I gave up as I figured you need the right tools and solder to work with it, and went back to a cheap little micro station for SMD work. It does fine for that task, and the tip temperature is too low to damage the components. It basically means I need two irons as most of the work I do is a mix of TH and SMD. For TH and almost all my other stuff I use a Soldron, which works fine but the spade tip means it's a tad tough to get into tight spaces, plus it's showing battle scars.

Also I think the request for caps is for audio-grade caps/opamps. The low-ESR types you use in power sections of motherboards may work well, but those values are usually too large. I have to import mine every time, though I wised up quickly and ordered a bulk quantity. I'm all stocked up for a couple of years at least.
Click to expand...

Sangram ,

Well Those Unbranded Hot Air Soldering stations Do Work .I Can Teach You The Right Method in This thread And Some Tricks i Use .Give Up The Solderon Soldering Iron And Migrate To Better Irons ,Cos The Branded Irons Like The Goot ,Hakko Have A Iron clad Tip Means If The Iron is On And You Have To Go Out And Once You Come Back Just Swipe On The water Clad Sponge and Bingo it Becomes Factory New .This Is Not True For Indian Iron Manufacturers Cos They Use Tinned Copper Tips ,That is Shit .
 
Amarbir[Chandigarh] said:
Sangram ,

Well Those Unbranded Hot Air Soldering stations Do Work .I Can Teach You The Right Method in This thread And Some Tricks i Use .Give Up The Solderon Soldering Iron And Migrate To Better Irons ,Cos The Branded Irons Like The Goot ,Hakko Have A Iron clad Tip Means If The Iron is On And You Have To Go Out And Once You Come Back Just Swipe On The water Clad Sponge and Bingo it Becomes Factory New .This Is Not True For Indian Iron Manufacturers Cos They Use Tinned Copper Tips ,That is Shit .
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip :rofl: I hate using the air station, not that I can't. I almost took out the first board I used it on, then went back to the Soldron. I last used it to repair a motherboard that had some condensation between layers and a severed PCB track due to screwdriver damage.

On irons: Copper tips actually work better for me as RoHS solder eats away iron quicker than you can say 'lead-free'. Actually it corrodes both iron and copper, iron just wears away a little quicker. I use both leaded and lead-free solder, so I keep a supply of tips on hand. I just wish there was more to choose from than just the regular spade tip, it makes it tough to reach small spots, something the conical-tipped Goots make it easy to do.

Iron leads to a more stable tip temperature for sure, but copper reaches optimum temperature quicker, so I guess both have their uses. The reasons I have for the better irons are the quality of the power cord and hopefully the balance. The Soldron is like a toy with a tiny lead, and it keeps falling on the cord itself, burning through it. I've lost more irons to punctured power cords than element failure.

Anyway, I'd be interested in some opamps and caps myself, so let me know what you can get. These usually are very expensive in small quantities, but if you can buy in bulk and sell us small units it would be great. Here's a quick list:

Burr-Brown/Texas: OPA2134, OPA549, TPA6111, THS4032

National: LME49720, 49710, LM3886, LM3875

Analog: AD797, AD8599

This should keep things going for peeps here for some time. I would advise offer the SMD version and your adapters for the TH requests. Just two options in single, three in duals and one or two in quads should be enough so you needn't keep a very large inventory.

Caps: Nichicon Muse KZ, Muse ES, Panasonic ECA, FC and FM, and Elna Silmic in about 4 sizes till 100uf, 50V or so is fine for almost all uses. I woulda said Black Gates but those are freely available in small quantities with cheap shipping, all over the web.
 
Apologies for going OT, but enjoy the bump!:

sangram said:
I just wish there was more to choose from than just the regular spade tip, it makes it tough to reach small spots, something the conical-tipped Goots make it easy to do.
Click to expand...

Soldron does make chisel/conical/needle tips : Soldron Soldering and Desoldering Equipment India from Vimla Engineering

sangram said:
The Soldron is like a toy with a tiny lead, and it keeps falling on the cord itself, burning through it. I've lost more irons to punctured power cords than element failure.
Click to expand...

Exactly the issue I had as well ! Till i got a stand :)

BTW Farnell India lists enclosures (including the popular Hammonds) : Enclosures | Farnell IN

However, online orders seem to be limited to corporate customers or something. You can probably call their Bangalore office and check.
 
sangram said:
Thanks for the tip :rofl: I hate using the air station, not that I can't. I almost took out the first board I used it on, then went back to the Soldron. I last used it to repair a motherboard that had some condensation between layers and a severed PCB track due to screwdriver damage.

On irons: Copper tips actually work better for me as RoHS solder eats away iron quicker than you can say 'lead-free'. Actually it corrodes both iron and copper, iron just wears away a little quicker. I use both leaded and lead-free solder, so I keep a supply of tips on hand. I just wish there was more to choose from than just the regular spade tip, it makes it tough to reach small spots, something the conical-tipped Goots make it easy to do.

Iron leads to a more stable tip temperature for sure, but copper reaches optimum temperature quicker, so I guess both have their uses. The reasons I have for the better irons are the quality of the power cord and hopefully the balance. The Soldron is like a toy with a tiny lead, and it keeps falling on the cord itself, burning through it. I've lost more irons to punctured power cords than element failure.

Anyway, I'd be interested in some opamps and caps myself, so let me know what you can get. These usually are very expensive in small quantities, but if you can buy in bulk and sell us small units it would be great. Here's a quick list:

Burr-Brown/Texas: OPA2134, OPA549, TPA6111, THS4032

National: LME49720, 49710, LM3886, LM3875

Analog: AD797, AD8599

This should keep things going for peeps here for some time. I would advise offer the SMD version and your adapters for the TH requests. Just two options in single, three in duals and one or two in quads should be enough so you needn't keep a very large inventory.

Caps: Nichicon Muse KZ, Muse ES, Panasonic ECA, FC and FM, and Elna Silmic in about 4 sizes till 100uf, 50V or so is fine for almost all uses. I woulda said Black Gates but those are freely available in small quantities with cheap shipping, all over the web.
Click to expand...

Sangram ,

Try To Get One Goot 30 Watts Basic soldering Iron With Spade Bits And then Try Soldering You Will Throw The solderon in the Garbage Can .Your Funda of Copper Heating Fast and XYZ Might Be OK But When you Will Use This Iron You will Never Revert Back To Indian soldering Irons .I will Gurranty You a Tip Life of 12 Months On The Goot Iron .
 
@Amarbir, I know that this involves electrical stuff but still wanted to ask you. Will you be able to make a device that'll turn on a flourescent light as scheduled (say 11AM to 11PM) ? I need one for my aquarium. Also let me know the cost
 
How about an IR Decoder. For finding out the Remote Code from any Remote Control. Useful for programming Universal Remotes.
Amarbir[Chandigarh] said:
Mates ,
i was interested in getting your feedback on this .I have been a electronic freak since childhood .I have Most of the electronic Instruments That i use for my repairs with Me .Was interested To Know that Would you People Out Here Have Any Interest In

1 :soldering And Desoldering Instruments
  • Soldering Irons ,Soldering stations ,Desoldering Tools And stations ,Hot Air stations ,IR Rework stations
2 :Test and Measurement Projects
  • Multimeters ,Clamp Meters ,Other Meters ,EPROM/MCU Programmers ,Programming Adapters Etc
3 :Electronic Projects And Training Kits
  • All TYpe Of Projects Kits and Training Kits Like Atmel ,PIC Etc Development Board ,FPGA/CPLD Kits Etc
4 :Electronic Books
  • Well some Kinda Repair Books In english And Hindi
5 :Electronic Components

I Plan to start Some Dealer Order and Group Orders On these Items Too
Click to expand...
 
mod-the-pc said:
@Amarbir, I know that this involves electrical stuff but still wanted to ask you. Will you be able to make a device that'll turn on a flourescent light as scheduled (say 11AM to 11PM) ? I need one for my aquarium. Also let me know the cost
Click to expand...

I doubt you'll get a ready made kit, as this involves mains voltage. You need to be very careful and build in redundancy into the system to avoid fire or other catastrophic failure.

That said, it's a pretty straightforward project. You need to switch a relay in the electrical path, with a 12-hour duty cycle. A simple 555 timer with a mains-rated relay should be enough, if you're interfacing it to the computer you'll need some serial code and a programmable memory chip. Light control is also possible, and a simple LDR will do the trick, you won;t even need the chip.

You'll need some basic understanding of the components, but it should not be a big deal.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom