Jopasu car duster

I use this shampoo and it gives good results, is there anything better than this in this price range?
I'm planning to get armorall glass cleaner from your suggestion, i have tried washing windshield with shampoo but they're still not as clean as I want them to be. After cleaning would you suggest using this wiper liquid?

There are also some deeply embedded dirt along the lower portion of the car that has accumulated over time from mud/dirt splashes which won't come off even with paid pressure wash. Do you know how to remove them?

Shampoo - use ones that are pure shampoo and have no wax

For a strong solution that will rip off any oil film use these

1> use utensil cleaner like vim or from kitchen instead of shampoo ! These are degreasers and will strip off any film

2> create a home solution of 40:60 ratio of isopropyl alcohol and water . This will also effectively remove any oily residue and film

3> finally tte best solution for squakey clean is to use a claybar with your shampoo . Its a mild abrasive and will literally Suck out any garbage and film from windscreen

The armorall is a solid glass cleaner , next would be turtle wax/ meguiars followed by 3m.


The key tona good clean windshield is a two steps process and needs two waffle weave mf cloths . Keep these separate from the ones that touch the car body .

use one towel to dry the windscreen After spraying with glass cleaner . Then follow up with rapid short strokes with dry towel . The second pass will pickup any smudge from step 1

Coming to dark marks on lower half ....we always follow least aggressive to most aggressive

1> try the less aggressive chemical method - search for bug and tar removal chemical. Spray let it soak for 40s and wipe clean with Mf towel

2> more aggressive- claybar - spray some soapy solution, rub the clay bar back and forth and observe it taken it out all .

Clay bars have levels of aggressive- take the medium one which is good overall on glass and paint body
Now one part - anytime you claybar, it will make that surface viegin

So on glass reapply any rain repellent and on car body , if possible do a light polish and then a layer of wax . You can short circuit the two steps by using a cleaner wax which is part polish ( remove fine scratches) and wax (protection)
 
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search for bug and tar removal chemical. Spray let it soak for 40s and wipe clean with Mf towel

Any particular product you recommend?
I am using WD40 for tar removal. But it does take some elbow grease. Will try the soak for 40s and wipe method. I do the soak and wait 5s (too impatient :p)

Please also recommend a good value claybar and where to procure it from.
 
In single thread we reached international car care products and procedures from Jopasu Car Duster.

To @Foxhound
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Any particular product you recommend?
I am using WD40 for tar removal. But it does take some elbow grease. Will try the soak for 40s and wipe method. I do the soak and wait 5s (too impatient :p)

Please also recommend a good value claybar and where to procure it from.
Easily available is TW bug and tar remover or even the foamy gel types of glue and tar remover

Try planetcarecare or on Amazon for name branded stuff - look for medium grades. I have not used Indian brands but they will be mostly chinese origin only. You can go no name chinese blue stuff on Amazon but they will be less effective and usually degrade soon . But not too bad for a first try on clay bars . Where ever you use make sure the surface is slippery with soapy solution
In single thread we reached international car care products and procedures from Jopasu Car Duster.

To @Foxhound
giphy.gif
Lolz , just dumping all this info so you all get sucked in to this rabit hole of vehicle care

Aight ! Your gif Game is :chefs kiss .
 
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Jopasu duster is worth the price
Purchased one a week back for 789 rs for my brezza..
Its strands are wax coated so instead of displacing dust and leading to micro scratches on car paint, with this the dust sticks to the wax coated strands in one stroke hence minimal scratches...
Its worth the price for me..

Btw looking for a cheap yet good 220v pressure washer, for car.. any pointers??
I've seen some youtube reviews from Automotive channels of these two brands.

OT, dry wiping with duster of any kind will cause scratches on clear coat as it drags the particle along. Rinseless wipe down or proper water wash would be the way to go.
 
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Man your car's paint is there for a purpose - To protect the car.
To further protect the paint you have a clear coat.
Now you guys are worring about microscratches on clear coat? :O
Like sure, you can reduce it, but its inevitable. In the, use what is less of an hassle.
 
All these cheap pressure washers are same on the inside, the motor/pump whatever is made in china, with the buyer custom plastic housing/branding.

This is the secret, to make these things last. Bookmark this boys.

Never turn ON pump and wait for the water, because it has to suck the water, it spins dry for we seconds, causing massive wear and tear, the water itself acts as a sort of coolant/lubricat for these machine, so make sure you never run it dry, if you water supply stops in the midst, kill the motor immediately. You will hear the pump noise changing when it is getting starved of the water.

What to do instead is hookup everything turn on the water tap but not the pump, squeeze the gun trigger wait for the water to come out of the gun naturally, when you see all the air is out, the water flow is constant, then you turn ON the pump and unleash the beast.

Do not use the water from the bucket, they advertise it as a feature, it's okay to use in emergency, if you have access to tap water just use that. Pulling water from the bucket puts more stress on the motor, because it has to pull and pump it out, wheareas if you use the tap water with a good enough flow, your pump doesn't have to worry about it, when the basic pressure of tap water is more than what the pump requires, the pump is happy to amplify it.

Once you are done with washing, normally people unhook everything or the just leave it as it is. This is bad, you don't want to leave the water inside the pump. Because of the hard water when it dries out inside the it leaves deposits behind which are bad for the seals and stuff inside. So after you are done, turn off the water tap, squeeze the gun trigger, now turn on the Pump >> intermittantely << in small pulses, via the switch manually, basically we don't want to run the pump at full speed, just enough to get all the water out of the pump, once you see no water is coming out of the gun, it's done for storage.

Hard water is the enemy, if you have very hard water, it contains many other stuff, the machine life will decrease, nothing can be done regarding this, it's on your luck.

Never run the pump continously for longer periods of time, think of it like if you used it for 1 min, wait 2 minutes to dissipate the heat. If you used for 5 minutes straight wait 10 minutes for it to cool down. Just maintain something close to this ratio, doesn't have to be exact, so you have some sense of control over the heat generation, of course don't run it for straight 15 minutes or more, it will cause thermal runaway. Usually this never happens when washing the car.

The pumps have oil in them, which needs to be replaced, this is hard to do if you are not mechanically inclined. It takes same gear oil that our car gearbox takes, you can ask the seller what grade of oil these things take. Ideally the oil change interval depends upon how much the pump is used, we have no way to know for how much time the pump actually ran in a year, we don't have odometer like thing in these like our cars. So people don't change oil in these and these things go bad, but they also don't follow the above practices, the pump goes bad even faster.

So if you can change the oil, do it, it will increase the life of it somewhat, don't expect that it will keep on working with regular oil change interval, no these are not meant for that kind of reliablity. If you can't change the oil, which is the case of most people, no need to worry, think of it as use and throw because these are cheap, consider what the machine does.

The bar pressure specification on these are false advertising, the actually cosntant pressure is lower, the value they advertise is the peak pressure that happens only for some milliseconds when the pump starts, so that value is of no use for us. All most all of them have good pressure none the less, it's lower than the advertised but still powerful enough.

Buy the one with the highest wattage, or which is bigger in size, not the plastic housing, the size of the actual motor, bigger motor == bigger pump means less stress which means longer life.

This is all you need to know about the puny yet powerful madness.

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Coming to dark marks on lower half ....we always follow least aggressive to most aggressive

1> try the less aggressive chemical method - search for bug and tar removal chemical. Spray let it soak for 40s and wipe clean with Mf towel

2> more aggressive- claybar - spray some soapy solution, rub the clay bar back and forth and observe it taken it out all .

Clay bars have levels of aggressive- take the medium one which is good overall on glass and paint body
Now one part - anytime you claybar, it will make that surface viegin
Okay will try this bug and glue remover first.

So on glass reapply any rain repellent and on car body , if possible do a light polish and then a layer of wax . You can short circuit the two steps by using a cleaner wax which is part polish ( remove fine scratches) and wax (protection)
I do have turtle wax ceramic spray which i have used once so far.