Just Another PC Desk Mod

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RD274

I.can.edit.this?omg
Galvanizer
So for many years now, I've had concepts and ideas of a cool 'pc-inside-my-desk' mod but never had time, money or skills involved to actually go ahead with something like this. I knew it wouldn't be easy and it would require thinking, doing a lot of work and spending money - none of which I'm really too good with :p. But like most people on new years day, I decided to actually go out and actually get it done. (Yes this started in Jan lol)




My current setup and no, that is NOT a disassembled Xbox 360 on the left.

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As you can see above, there was ample reason why I wanted to make my own desk. Rather than throwing/selling my old monitor, I held onto my AOC 17" display and used it in dual (extended) display with the new display. The difference was literally sky and earth to me. I could now watch tutorials in one monitor while working in the other, I could have a reference windows on the left while working in the other, I could play on the 360/PS3 on the main monitor and work my computer on the other monitor. I was satisfied with dual monitors and there was no way I was gonna sacrifice this setup. BUT, I did want to have everything on one single level and integrate the system into the desk.

Anyways, so I wasted a little time collecting money, playing ps3, working up concepts, and it was only until end February when I actually managed to engineer not one - but two desks. I could not make a longer desk without having it clash with my other desk (the one my cabinet, 360, ps3 is currently on in the pic above). Which was a pity as the other desk was an expensive desk made from excellent wood, plus there was no way I could extend that desk and have it still look uniformly good. Lastly, I also wanted the desk to be more compact so that I could use the door on the right to my garden. So after a few bad sketches and random sketches, I converted the twin desks to an accurate scale model in Autodesk Maya.



All minimalistic and shit.
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This was the first basic concept built to scale in Maya's 3D space. The desk on the left is a standard work desk which I'd draw/sketch on and the desk on the right was the system one with a window to peek inside and admire my awesome pc (bear with me, I'm only getting started here). The original design had drawers, but when I actually worked out how much wood and skill that would require, I settled for a simpler cupboard design.

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After some thinking and deliberation, I created an almost complete concept done in Maya this time.




The red strips are strips of wood I plan to soak in blood to appease Signoré Deskerado, the god of desks.
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Before you ask, the red strips are strips that people apply at the end of plywood sheets to insure that the sheets don't warp and to hide the ugly plywood layers. I was initially hesitant to waste my time doing this but when I noticed that some of the plywood I had already collected was already warped from storage in my basement, I added it in the concept. The green pieces are transparent pieces of acrylic and the purple is a thick sheet of transparent acrylic that makes the extendable keyboard tray (Why? Read below). The second pic is an x-ray view showing the shelves and a bit of the system. The cabinet on the left has more shelves as I'm planning to store sketchpens, pencils, brushes, paint and stuff with a few books. The cabinet on the right has only two smaller shelves as I plan to hide the power strip up top in there with all the power cables all neatly ziptied together and also for storing extra cables, parts and maybe a few physical game titles (mostly ps3 titles) at the bottom.

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Now for a close up of the system itself. Heres where I immediately began to regret having a compact layout. Not only was I limited in terms of height which means I had to chuck my beloved TRU120 CPU cooler, but with the keyboard tray inside, I was limited even more in terms of height across almost 1/3rd the space inside. Plus the keyboard tray was going to block a small amount of the window when closed.

I had to compensate big time. I limited the size of the keyboard tray and chose a thick sheet of clear acrylic instead of wood so atleast a little of the underlying parts would show through when the keyboard was closed. I then went and adjusted the keyboard tray height versus the height of all parts that could get come in the way -24pin motherboard power connector for eg.. Most of these issues got solved but the 120mm fans sadly had to be placed horizontally or not at all. Heres how it looked after all the changes:



le top view


le top view with x-ray mode activated


le top view with x-ray mode activated showing significant problems improvements with the keyboard tray in.​

​
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Anyhow with that taken care of, this is how the layout actually is. Obviously this is considering the hardware I currently have minus the GPU (which I don't have yet) and the power,reset,etc assembly which I'm not sure how to go through with just yet. As you can see, its pretty cramped but there should be just about enough space to run the cables through without making it look too bad.



Forgot to mark the riser cable and also checking to see if you read this shit.

​
They yellow bits are all thin sheets of acrylic which will hold almost everything together.

Current system config:
AMD Phenom X6 1055T
Gigabyte GA-880GM-UD2H
Corsair XMS3 1600Mhz 2gb*2
Corsair VX450
Hitachi 160gb
Hitachi 250gb
WD Blue 500gb (Primary)
Liteon DVD RW
AOC 916SWA
AOC i2251FWE (the I is a joke- it doesn't have an IPS panel, I was scammed boo hoo!)

Parts I'm hoping to add:
1. 120mm sized Closed loop water cooler - It would fit (this explains the gap between the motherboard and far wall) and also perform better than the usual 90mm sized aircoolers. Problem is finding a reasonably priced one. I missed an awesome deal on an H50 some months earlier. Will find something eventually, but I'll stick to the stock AMD cooler for now.
2. GPU - I'm inherently master race and was supposed to upgrade to a 270x some months earlier, but when I put together the money, it became more expensive (December '13 - never forget). So I went out and bought a PS3 with that money. Will put together some funds and get this card or maybe stretch to a 760 or 280x (god help my VX450).
3. GPU Riser Cable - Put an order for one of these on Deal Extreme already. It ought to show up sometime this year. I'll probably rage about this the moment I can't plug my GPU cause I lack the damn cable.
4. Power/Reset/USB assembly - I already have a power button and a cheapish looking pcb with two usb ports and headphones/mic on it, but it lacks finesse and I'm not sure how I'm going to put this all together while making it look good. Will burn this bridge when I get to it (which is at the end obviously).

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Now before I proceed any further, I'd like to explain (if you couldn't already tell from the images above), this isn't a fancy desk job. Don't expect Bosch machinery or fancy miter joints. Its not that I wasn't interested in working with better machinery or better wood working techniques, its just that I didn't want to go too far out of the way with this desk and let the wood working itself distract me .... plus I had a budget.

In any case, a few weeks inside I learned that my building may be going up for redevelopment and since I had the option on the desk (pun intended), I decided to make the desk completely dismantle-able by using metal brackets and screws.

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So this is what I had to begin with. The clamps, L-scale and tape are new, the rest were contributions and stuff I had to begin with. I later got a drill machine (as creepy as the circular saw in the pic) and bought some extra tools like a filer, planar, a few drill bits and got a few handsaws and (more) hammers.



DAT CIRCULAR SAW
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First things first, I had to restore the circular saw. Yes, I was about to make the desk I dreamed off from a saw that needed restoration! I sanded the corrosion of the plug (wish I had a pic of that), sanded the rust of the base plate and changed the blade. That seemed to be enough to make it more approachable get things going.



ROYAL STAG LOL
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Next I got my basement setup for work- I used a few extra draws and cabinet doors to make a small/portable worktable, cleared the area and ofcourse got music setup. For the desk itself- since I used Maya to make a highly specific 3D diagram of the desk, I was able to manually select each of those pieces and input their dimensions into a 8x4 feet canvas and plot out how many sheets of plywood I needed.



18MM MR GRADE PLYWOOD - 1 ^^


18MM MR GRADE PLYWOOD - 2 ^^


12MM MR GRADE PLYWOOD ^^
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So basically, 2 -1.8CM sheets of Plywood for the base structure and an additional 1.2CM sheet of plywood for lighter/less important bits. I had to do some chopping to drag them to my basement and so some pieces are lying elsewhere but this is it.



I can't tell you how much pain went into later sanding off those stupid labels
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CHOPPING TIME!!!
With the new blade and a little over 0% confidence in the saw, I went ahead and made the first cut. Note, how I used scotch tape to protect the edges and reduce the chances of splinters. Nope, it didn't work so great plus applying/removing the tape was a hassle and every time I removed it, it would pull out the damn markings.



Used that thin piece of wood as a guide for cutting the first piece and then used that large piece (factory cut end obv) as guideline for everything else.


This was just beginning!


Straighter than an arrow. Yes? Yes? Yes? No. Ok.


YEP
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Steadily, I only saw more splinters and my cuts were steadily getting crooked and off target. Plus, I had no idea how to make these inside cuts and still didn't trust the saw. So I called on my friend to help out. He was the guy who lent me some of the shitty tools (including the circular saw) and had way more confidence and skills in this. Besides he used to get secret pleasure in cutting the wood; And although I'm tempted to call him 'V' as in villager, I'll just call him 'H' from here on.



The real image of progress!


Needs better finishing though.
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Anyways with H around, it was far more easier to work. I would do measurements and guide lining and he'd do the cutting and play jazz music (literally besame mucho). Anyhow despite issues with the wood quality and a couple of measurement issues, it went great.



Measurement, Calcuations, etc etc.


CHOP! CHOP! CHOP!


WOOD WOOD WOOD!
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With some wood cut, we simultaneously got started on the sanding. It was different work compared to measuring figures, drawing guide lines and then finally cutting wood although we soon grew tired and fed up of it. Not to mention the ****ing splinters I collected.




Fun and satisfying for approximately half an hour.


Blisters, splinters and cuts not included.
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By now the cut wood was steadily piling. Although we did waste a lot of time running through them again and again to correct mistakes like crooked wood or incorrect sizing (goddamn H) but steadily (and slowly) we cut and sanded almost all of it.



Sanding pulled out a lot of the top layers of some pieces. Guess I overestimated the quality of the sheets.


I had no such issue during cutting or sanding with the 12mm sheets though.


Some more cut and sanded pieces.


Friend brought that cabinet hoping we could steal parts or get measurements from it.
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And finally a pic of the system itself- the motherboard tray and the backpanel. I don't suppose I need to point out the crooked lines which we tried really had to fix them. Thing is, to make those kinda inside cuts with inside edges, you need a jigsaw and we didn't have one. We manually forced the circular saw through and cut as much as possible, then used a rusty hand saw to complete the cut and finally filed the edges so it didn't look like a botched plastic surgery.




12mm for the tray to save weight and 18mm for the backpanel cause I needed its strength. The sides (18mm) are in the picture above this (the piece which has a green horse on it).


The supports, braces and frame of the desk
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With this done, we had finished cutting a majority of the wood required to finish the desk so onto the next step. According to my friend, all wood work done with plywood, need to have strips at the end to reduce the chances of warping (plywood warps lesser than whole pieces of wood anyhow) and also to hide the visible plywood layers at the end of cuts. So the 'tatti' patti work began. We got almost 120feet of these for like 4 bucks a foot and got started. God bless Maya for giving me an estimate of just how much I required.




Perfect fit!


Filing the edges so that the strips match the piece.


Godammnit!


Oops
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Unfortunately this wasn't easy work- Often the wood would split while nailing it and if not, using the planar on it was risky too as it would shave off the edges of the strip or sometimes peel off a layer of the ply. So after quite a bit of effort, most of the patti work was applied and I could safely move on to the next step ...

To be continued!
 
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It was amazing fun, despite the mistakes and slipups. Not to mention an amazing learning experience. Thanks mav2000 and rakesh_sharma23, nice to hear from you modding legends :D
 
Nice design @RD274 !

I was quite excited to see a sophisticated desk in Maya... but then it was equally painful to see those shoddy cuts!

you should've used a proper circular saw with a nice wood blade to cut those pieces. what you are using is a marble cutter. and to reduce split ends, you should've used a low-tack masking tape instead of brown packaging tape. anyways, you are going to hide all of them with a veneer or laminate later on.

all of the above is cosmetic which can be overlooked but at this moment your design is lacking any kind of horizontal structural support. that 'patti' is meant for decorative purposes only and that too is installed (the wrong way) with nails... you should've used adhesive here and head-less finishing nails to hold the patti in place while the adhesive dries. then those nails are supposed to be removed (or pushed beneath the wood surface) and patti is given a smooth finish with hand plane or sander.

you still have time to add some rigidity or structural support to your desk in the form of steel beams or wooden slats. otherwise, your nice table is going to sag pretty soon.

something on the acrylic front too: if you feel that your acrylic sheets are not too strong (bends easily) then go for polycarbonate sheets. they are pretty strong and should support your system adequately. that acrylic showcase window on the table top will get scratches easily... so, if you like (or if your budget permits) then you should put 8~12mm glass sheet on the entire table top. it's just for cosmetic purposes and not so important though.

please keep on posting your progress. and how are you making those joins?
 
Thanks everyone :)

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Mr.J said:
Best of luck.

OT:
Which controllers do you have?
Click to expand...

Thats just a black 360 controller and a PS3 controller.

gauravH said:
Nice design @RD274 !

I was quite excited to see a sophisticated desk in Maya... but then it was equally painful to see those shoddy cuts!

you should've used a proper circular saw with a nice wood blade to cut those pieces. what you are using is a marble cutter. and to reduce split ends, you should've used a low-tack masking tape instead of brown packaging tape. anyways, you are going to hide all of them with a veneer or laminate later on.

all of the above is cosmetic which can be overlooked but at this moment your design is lacking any kind of horizontal structural support. that 'patti' is meant for decorative purposes only and that too is installed (the wrong way) with nails... you should've used adhesive here and head-less finishing nails to hold the patti in place while the adhesive dries. then those nails are supposed to be removed (or pushed beneath the wood surface) and patti is given a smooth finish with hand plane or sander.

you still have time to add some rigidity or structural support to your desk in the form of steel beams or wooden slats. otherwise, your nice table is going to sag pretty soon.

something on the acrylic front too: if you feel that your acrylic sheets are not too strong (bends easily) then go for polycarbonate sheets. they are pretty strong and should support your system adequately. that acrylic showcase window on the table top will get scratches easily... so, if you like (or if your budget permits) then you should put 8~12mm glass sheet on the entire table top. it's just for cosmetic purposes and not so important though.

please keep on posting your progress. and how are you making those joins?
Click to expand...

The saw was terrible but with a new blade (capable of cutting plywood) it did a great job. The split ends mostly occurred on certain sections of the cheaper 18mm wood, so I'm guessing it had a lot to do with the damn wood. The better quality 12mm sheets cut far more cleaner. I definitely should've used tape on the bad wood though. As for the wonky cuts, well we spent days fixing till they weren't too bad.

Yes many carpenters we asked later said we should've stuck the pattis and used clamps to hold them in place but we weren't taking that bit too seriously as we figured we'd paint over the strips anyways; And so as long as we didn't chip or break the wood (we did anyways), it would be alright.

As for structural rigidity. I did add a wooden plank across the other desk for support but I'm not sure how to do the same for the other desk. I'll just update the worklog further so you can see more.

Thanks so much for the input @gauravH
 
So much to update and so little time (or maybe patience).

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POLISHING TIME; And it went on for a significantly long time and it being the messy, sticky and smelly process that it was, I didn't touch my phone much and as a result I didn't take a lot of pics. I bought and used a premixed can of polish because it saved me the hassle of getting polish, color and turpentine, then mixing them all up and getting the right shade, tone, thickness, etc. This can had the perfect shade, didn't require much effort and I could get as much quantity of it as possible without worrying about maintaining the evenness of the shade in the future, etc.




Smell not included
​

In any case, you can see some of my good and horrendous polishing work in the next few pics in the assembly page.

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ASSEMBLY!!!

As mentioned earlier, I recently discovered that my building (and the ones adjoining ours) may be going up for redevelopment and since I was pretty involved in this desk, I decided to make this desk such that it would be completely dismantable to the last part and so I set about to get L brackets and screws. Lots and lots of screws.



I experimented with 2 sizes and eventually choose the ones toward the bottom for their strength.
​

Having chosen the L brackets, we got started with the assembly of the first cabinet. Without a doubt it was a two man job of holding pieces in place, marking holes, drilling and finally installing the part. Something as simple as the box below took far too long for me to honestly type out. But hey, we did learn a lot lol.






Sorry for blurrycam on the last pic.
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It stood impressively straight everything considered. We also stood on it (just because) and it held firm without so much as a squeak. With that confidence we went ahead and made the supports for the other end. Then made it stand with the top piece on top.




Despite the errors, I can't tell you how gratifying this was, we cried (We didn't).
​

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With new found confidence we went ahead to make the other side cabinet. But this one was far more troublesome. Assembling it we noticed gaps in the back panel but the real icing on the cake was the bottom piece.



Looks okay right?


Gaps, ugh.



Measurements were perfect but put it in place and it appeared really wrong and from both ends too! It hit us after a few seconds. Yes, ladies and gentlemen we somehow managed to cut a parallelogram lmao.
​

After laughing at our stupidity for an unreasonably long time, we fixed it by pulling out the patti, shaving off one end (compensating mainly towards the rear) and then finally reapplying the patti and installing it in place.



Clamp +50 Assist.


Not bad. I corrected the height/angle differences later.


We did try to cover the gaps but gave up as the part would never come part again if we used any more glue.
​

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Now for the most interesting bit. The PC desk bit itself. Starting with the bottom panel, it was time to attach the other panels to it. I honestly wished I could've not used the L brackets on the inside, but there was no way to use the L brackets on the outside (L brackets have a notch on their inside blocking them from being installed on the outside). Anyhow, I consoled myself thinking that I could always cover them up with stuff so I went ahead anyways. In any case, I didn't want to risk anything when it came to my system so instead of installing enough L brackets, I installed far too many haha.





Lining everything up and marking stuff and shit.





Holes drilled.





Brackets installed.


The brackets that installed this box to the top surface - Scale Model lel.



Quick line up and check.



The outer brackets even helped fix this crooked piece





All done!
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It was now time to turn my attention to the other desk and fix the top surface. This desk is for drawing and sketching and so I designed the center part to be angle adjustable, kinda like you see in art schools. Unfortunately this meant breaking the top surface into three different bits. Each of these pieces needed support and my desperate attempt to give them bracing with those short pieces of wood failed miserably.






OMFG DAT LAST PIC
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To solve this, I got a large spare piece of wood and nailed it (yes nailed it) from the bottom. This added the necessary bracing but unfortunately this also blocked the cabinet side of the desk, lifting it up slightly. This meant I had to raise both ends of the cabinet and create a gap in the middle of one cabinet so this could fit properly. Depressing.



​

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Nevertheless despite all odds, I decided to go ahead with applying the first coat of paint to the edges and some spare pieces of strips that would fit into the desk.







One coat down, two more to go.
​

These strips went to the shelf mounts for the cabinet and one set went to the top surface window area. I decided to screw the mounts in because it was too narrow an area to hold and nail the strips into the cabinet walls. It was possible but just too difficult to manage in such a short space and if I got the height wrong, the shelf would be lopsided. Instead I drilled and screwed long screws into the strips and then lined them up perfectly, then used a hammer to set the strips (screws and all) into the wood. I also have the added benefit of now removing the strips if I want to and changing them as per my shelf choices in the future. I did however nail the strips in the window in. Apologies for the dark pics.




Much better now.
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I also additionally felt it would be a good idea to add feet to the cabinet and supports as it would make dragging shifting the desk more easier. I also adjusted the height of each feet such that the cabinet stood straight and was perfectly flat. To ensure that it was flat I used one of those bubble level meters and added wood slices under each foot to balance it. Sadly a friend lent me that and since I was a little busy talking to him, I didn't get pics of it or the process.




I did, however wish these came in black :/.
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50 pic per post :/

TBC
 
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With the strips inserted into the window of the top surface it was time for smaller modifications. These modifications should've been done earlier so I could've painted them then but yeah who thought of it then. Anyhow, the top surface needed the cutouts for the cables done. A very fun bit to cut when you don't have a jigsaw /sarcasm. Nevertheless I managed it alright. It was anyways going to covered with strips so it didn't have to be neat.





Circular saw, fret saw, drill and a shit load of file-ing
​

Next on the list was the hole for the cabinet at the side. I actually thought of this much later. The idea was to make a hole in the cabinet at the top and shove the powerstrip and extra wires through this hole and leave it all on the top shelf of the cabinet and out of sight. I eventually scrapped the idea of putting the power strip there as I wasn't ready to take the risk of overheating it and risking a fire hazard, I did however make the hole for the extra wiring and the stupid monitor adapter.





Yeah that won't fit. Musttryharder.jpeg


More drilling, fretsawing and finally file-ing


The shelf on the other side picked up the mess. Heres how much came out
​

Finally it was time to cover touch up my fancy work with another batch of paint. This time I painted the shelves and any bits of wood that had missed a spot. I also painted these loops which I plan to later install inside/outside the desk to help with cable management. The paint obviously wont stay on these but I painted them anyways in the hopes that some paint stayed and they looked slightly black when installed in the desk.









I was also extremely racist to those loops. Sue me.
​

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By now i had (grudgingly) come to the part I least looked forward to. Adding height to the top surface of both desks so that the support plank of the last top surface could fit. Sadly I didn't have much wood left so I just added two small pieces of wood for support at the front and back and painted them black in the hopes they wouldn't stick out too much. The hollow they created would undoubtedly fill up with dust and dirt but it was unavoidable. This also meant that the supports of both desks needed large feet which I was happy to provide as it meant a firmer base. Although they did need polishing.




Why paint all of it when most of it was anyways gonna be covered? That day was a great day for logic.


And I was out of polish!


Quick test
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Having passed this final test, it was finally time to bring it up to my room. AIR CONDITIONING WHILE WORKING YES!

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Right in time for the acrylic sheet roll arriving. And a few mm too thin too :/. Disappointed though I was with the sheet thickness and strength, I decided to use it anyways rather than trade it in as I was sure I needed some parts to have thin plastic like the motherboard tray for example. Other places didn't do too well.





Monitor(s) test : PASS!


Xbox 360(s) test : nope.
​

Obviously I'm going to need glass or thicker sheets for the top panel as theres no way that that plastic is going to hold onto anything other than those monitors. Oh well, it'll have to do for now until I can order thicker. Anyhow, I went ahead with cutting and fitting the rest of pieces of the plastic like the HDD, motherboard and graphic card mounts. I should add that cutting acrylic sheets with that saw was borderline dangerous. Plastic (and sharp small pieces) flew everywhere and if I wasn't careful I would ruin the sheets with cracks and jagged cuts (which happened often).






And now for a quick layout test


I decided to add these rubber spacers under all the drives so that they would absorb vibration and also create a slight gap between the bottom and drive for ##redacted## (its a surprise lol, keep reading).
​

Marking holes on the motherboard tray. I found a document online that explained the mounting points for mATX motherboards and so I carefully marked out all the holes.




But the final test was using an actual motherboard so it was finally time to shift out of my old cabinet.
​

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Cabinet clearing time. It also meant saying goodbye to my trusty TRU120, a friend who successfully kept a 4Ghz Phenom X6 at bay even at 100% load during renders. I wish I could've kept it, but at 16cms tall it would've poked straight through the top panel and a few cms above that too. This meant downgrading to the stock AMD cooler aka le jet engine *cringe*. Plus, I just can't wait to see all this dust in my desk next lol.





X-men?


EWWW DUST BUGS.


WOW SUCH DUST MUCH SURPRISE.


And because some weird OCD I had at the time, I took the cabinet out in the garden and beat it with a broom stick till it looked clean.


Le Datacenters
​

With the PSU and motherboard out, I was free too confirm my markings on the motherboard panel and also check wire lengths for the PSU. Both were a good calls cause a marking was wrong and secondly, the PSU cables weren't reaching to the end. I was left with no choice but to flip it. This meant that the PSU cables would have a longer reach and would contribute to the airflow of the desk but it also meant that the silly hole I cut under it was now worthless.



Nope.


Much better.


Mount points for the motherboard. I stole dem gold screws from my ex-cabinet.


It fits but with a little flex.
​

Back to the cable issues. Now since the older hard drives could still be powered by molex, it made sense to have one molex line run up to them at the top left corner. But the newer hdd and dvd drive required sata power connectors, which may be a stretch for the single and shorter sata power line running through from the bottom. Anyhow, so after rotating the other harddrives to face the molex line, it seemed okay enough to go ahead with.

But before I could apply the rubber spacers I decided to make the fan grilles and mounts first. For the grilles, I didn't want to use those lame-o early 2000 circular fan grilles so I decided to make my own. I found a reasonably sturdy grille in a hardware shop and he cut me 3feetx1foot for 60 bucks. It wasn't black but with a little cutting it was sturdy enough to not bounce in and ruin the fan. For the fan mounts at the back, I used a piece of wood to give them support from underneath and acrylic pieces to hold them in place from all 4 corners.



The arrows indicate where the power/data cabels connect to.



Dark pics again, sorry!



Those panels between the fans will cover up the blank spots and ##redacted##.
​

All set, time to stick the spacers for the drives and motherboard panel. I decided to do it for the motherboard panel too as the motherboard panel anyways had gold screws sticking out of the bottom and raising it up also left space for ##redacted##.



All set!
​

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Blue Leaf said:
Dude for the love of god,use thumbnails :mad:
Click to expand...
Whats that you said? I cant see your post over all these pics lol.

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No but seriously, how do I make those thumbnails preview kinda things. I remember imageshack had a BB friendly code that could be pasted here to achieve the same effect but how can I do this with imgur?

Fixed.
 
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rakesh_sharma23 said:
Great build..

Just one suggestion, you can use this to cover the whole table.. It will give some pro look to whole build.
http://www.ebay.in/itm/3D-Carbon-Fi..._Accessories_Parts&hash=item19eea1a3ab&_uhb=1
Click to expand...

Holy shit I actually used that for some of the panels. I didn't use it a lot because its weave would pick up a lot of dust and would be a pain to clean later on.[DOUBLEPOST=1402477170][/DOUBLEPOST]
Blue Leaf said:
use http://someimage.com/
thumbnail size 300px width
Click to expand...

Managed via bb code and imgur, thanks :)
 
Very Very interesting indeed. Instead of DIY however, lazy me went to a metal fabricator. Better job, better finish, free powder coating.
 
axeman said:
Very Very interesting indeed. Instead of DIY however, lazy me went to a metal fabricator. Better job, better finish, free powder coating.
Click to expand...

Actually after all the warped wood, sanding and poor wood working- I'm really considering working in metal next time. Ofcourse I'd not do that myself, but the stronger, leaner and cleaner finish of metal would be worth the expense over wood. But that would be my next attempt, and I'll invest a lot more time and money on that one.
 
Good progress mate, but do remember when you use metal you would have welding / brazing marks , and to make these joints disappear or to make them less noticeable its a pain which directly translates to more time consumption !!
how do i know this ? my uncle owns a fabrication business
 
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