CPU/Mobo Stupid Asus probe scaring me out!

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buBleZ

Galvanizer
Its just a day since I assembled my rig.. No overclocking and everything at stock. Asus Probe is reporting High NB and SB temperatures which are in the range of 45-50. I dont know whether its normal or something to worry about.

DRAM voltage I have set manually to 2.1V and speed to 1002Mhz coz by default the MB wont enable more than 800Mhz. Mine is G.skill 4GB rated to operate at 1000Mhz at 2.1V. So is my manual setting in bios ok?

My config:

Intel Core2Extreme QX9650

Asus Maximus formula X38

G.Skill PC2-8000 4GB DDR2

TRUE 120

CM690 Cabby with stock fans

Asus probe screenshot:



inner screenshots:. Do you guys think that TRUE heatsink directly above the NB heatsink is a reason? Also I havent yet installed the top 2 120 mm fans for the cabby. 120mms in the front, side and back

 
Thanks but that doesnt show the NB temps.. I am seeing the temps reported by Asus probe in bios as well.. So i guess the nos are right.. Someone please help with what temp levels are tolerable for NB and SB
 
OMFG!!! :O

Jus noticed d poccy... Wat was price budd??? 40-50k???

And why isn't ur name atop the freaking S-Pi scoreboard wen u've a cpu with a bloody unlocked multiplier???

Flaunt it with some DICE/LN2...

Btw with the NB/SB temps..
Try removing them and apply some good TIM like the MX2 before the OEM sticky thermal tape sticks hard with the heatsinks..

It will make a diff.. I guess those temps may be correct..

Also try using PCwizard n find those temps..
 
Proccy + mobo = 46K.

I just assembled this system 2 days back. And I have nvr did overclocking at all.. Noobish I am in overclocking. Need to learn them slowly.

I am scary to remove the heatsinks. But I will try .

gannu_rox said:
OMFG!!! :O

Jus noticed d poccy... Wat was price budd??? 40-50k???

And why isn't ur name atop the freaking S-Pi scoreboard wen u've a cpu with a bloody unlocked multiplier???

Flaunt it with some DICE/LN2...

Btw with the NB/SB temps..
Try removing them and apply some good TIM like the MX2 before the OEM sticky thermal tape sticks hard with the heatsinks..

It will make a diff.. I guess those temps may be correct..

Also try using PCwizard n find those temps..
Click to expand...
 
Get some help here..

Uber hardware u've got there..

But a bad cabinet.. U shud've got a stacker.. Nevertheless..
 
The problem in removing the NB heatsink requires that I remove the TRUE on the CPU.. Because TRUE is hiding most of the NB heatsink. Also I guess I shd not

install TRUE with the motherboard in the cabinet as I may risk breaking it.

So I will have to remove the MB, then TRUE and then the heatsink. Looks like i have to dismantle and reassemble the system :(
 
Arey do it na.. Big deal.. ;)

(In fact it is :ashamed:, but I guess it pays.. Pl do pay attention how u're going to apply the TIM on the NB/SB and the Mosfets as well.. The drop style..)

Try overclocking ur monster n post some results... :)
 
gannu_rox said:
Arey do it na.. Big deal.. ;)

(In fact it is :ashamed:, but I guess it pays.. Pl do pay attention how u're going to apply the TIM on the NB/SB and the Mosfets as well.. The drop style..)

Try overclocking ur monster n post some results... :)
Click to expand...

I am planning to try in the weekend.. ALso I read horror stories of the NB coming of the PCB when removing the heatsink for this board due to some cheapo stock paste. So am not going to stress it if it doesnt come out.

Also what is drop style and where are the mosfets. Plz explain. Sorry I am all new to this. I have the TIM that came with TRUE.. Guess that will do enough.

Right now I hae increased the multi to 11 from the default 9. so 333*11 = 3.6Ghz. THis prime running stable for 8 hrs. But my NB temps increased to 56C :S
 
depends on which school of thought u follow :P

some advice that we should put a drop in de center nd let the HS nd the heat to spread it out...

others put in the same drop nd then use a credit card or something similar.. to spread the goo out...

i use AS5 which is very very viscous.. nd for some reason.. like the idea of spreading it out wid a flat thin bit of plastice :P

no idea if its gonna make a diff.. am guessing that as long as u dont put in too much goo.. it shouldnt make to much of a diff :)
 
buBleZ said:
I am planning to try in the weekend.. ALso I read horror stories of the NB coming of the PCB when removing the heatsink for this board due to some cheapo stock paste. So am not going to stress it if it doesnt come out.

Also what is drop style and where are the mosfets. Plz explain. Sorry I am all new to this. I have the TIM that came with TRUE.. Guess that will do enough.

Right now I hae increased the multi to 11 from the default 9. so 333*11 = 3.6Ghz. THis prime running stable for 8 hrs. But my NB temps increased to 56C :S
Click to expand...

Drop Style= Wat stalker has said.. Put a drop n gently put the HS atop the NB/SB.. The TIM will automatically spread to all the corners evenly..

The TIM tat came with TRUE must be decent enuf..

The reason why it takes some stress to pull out the HS outta the NB/Sb is cos the 'cheapo' material melts itself n sticks to the HS n NB thus hardening. Even I'd a very bad experience taking the HS combo out of my P5K del board.. But then u can clean it later using a good TIM remover..

Mosfets are the small chips atop which the HS resides next to the proccy socket..
 
one way to make the task easier.. is to turn on the comp nd run it for a few mins.. then turn it off.. nd remove the hs widout wasting too much time. the hs would have gotted heated when the comp was running.. and de goo would have become soft.. making it easier to remove the hs..

@gannu.. the hardening happens once the goo/hs has had a chance to cool down...
 
sTALKEr said:
one way to make the task easier.. is to turn on the comp nd run it for a few mins.. then turn it off.. nd remove the hs widout wasting too much time. the hs would have gotted heated when the comp was running.. and de goo would have become soft.. making it easier to remove the hs..

@gannu.. the hardening happens once the goo/hs has had a chance to cool down...
Click to expand...

Yup.. Precisely.. Jus like the tar on roads... :rofl:
 
@buBleZ - do you have a 90mm fan on the TRUE heat sink ? looks like that in the picture. Is this fan blowing air to the rear of the case thru the TRUE ? And is the rear case fan throwing air out of the case ?

To get some cooling over the motherboard components and display card I have attached a 120mm fan to the HDD cage on the inner side, with plastic ties - this blows air over the Motherboard and display card, it makes a noticeable difference to temperatures.
 
Wat I guess is the same blue LED 120mm fan tat come with the CM690 is in the front blowing towards the HDDs... But tat fan is an utter crap if not fer the showw-off courtesy the blue leds..

So remove the front panel, remove the front fan and fix a good fan..

And may I know wat fan u're using with the TRUE??

Hopefully u've a fan on top of the cm690 tat acts like an exhaust..

An pl do re-route the cabling wen ue time... :)
 
@ Eazy, Gannu - The fan over TRUE is Scythe S-Flex SFF21F 120 mm fan. It is fitted on TRUE facing the drive bay and blowing air towards the drive bay.

Rear case fan is currently blowing in towards the CPU heatsink. Reason because the Side intake fan and the Front lower intake fans that came with the CM690 as gannu pointed out just sucks. No enough air intake at all.. THats why I placed the rear fan as intake instead of exhaust for getting cool air.

This is my current fan setup.

1 x stock 120mm intake on the side.

1 x stock 120mm intake on the bottom next to PSU

1 x stock 120mm intake fan on the fromt lower side

All the above fans suck. have to replace them.

1 x Glacialtech UV LED 120mm intake fan on the rear

1 x Glacialtech UV LED 120mm fan exhaust on the top

1 x Scythe S-Flex SFF21F 120 mm fan on the TRUE exhaust blowing towards the drive bay

To get some cooling over the motherboard components and display card I have attached a 120mm fan to the HDD cage on the inner side, with plastic ties - this blows air over the Motherboard and display card, it makes a noticeable difference to temperatures.
Click to expand...

@Eazy, Just wanted to confirm u mean HDD cage and not CD drive area. Coz placing in the cd drive area will blow air to the opposite of true's fan?

thanks for the replies guys i will try to remove the NB heatsink this weekend and let u guys know. But before that I want to replace the stock 120mm fans. Which fans do you guys suggest?

Also the pics are a lil bit old and i have made changes after.. I will put the new pics.
 
bubleZ-
If your PWM and NB heatsinks come with thermal pads, i am not sure if its safe to use thermal paste.
Ad i prefer MX2 or Ceramique to AS5 on mobo/gfx becuz of their non-conductive nature. :P

Did you get that small blower like fan for attaching to the PWM heatsink.
My friend had high PWM/mobo temps on his A8N32 and using that did get temps in control. :)

Also a 40mm or a slim 50/60/70mm fan on the NB,PWM,SB heatsink proves quite helpful at times. :)

I am also not very sure of the way you use your case fans. :ashamed:
Having an exhaust fan right net to the I/O ports, and that's where the PWM heatsink usually is, causes enough movement of air in that area to cool them a bit, while taking the hot air out.
Having it as intake need not create that effect.
Plus if the rear fan is intake, it just might be inhaling back some of the hot air exhausted from your 3870X2. :ashamed:

You may be right with your fan layout but i was just wondering. :P
Also for the way you have set up your case and TRUE fans, you are most prolly using the top exhaust next to the optical drive?? :)
gannu_rox said:
Get some help here..
Uber hardware u've got there..
But a bad cabinet.. U shud've got a stacker.. Nevertheless..
Click to expand...
Why is the CM690 a bad cabinet?? :huh:
And which stacker are you talking about and what makes it so better than the CM690?? :ashamed:
Since you have used both the cabinets (i presume), you are the best person to explain. :)
 
BIKeINSTEIN said:
Why is the CM690 a bad cabinet?? :huh:

And which stacker are you talking about and what makes it so better than the CM690?? :ashamed:

Since you have used both the cabinets (i presume), you are the best person to explain. :)
Click to expand...

I have both used a Stacker 830 and a CM690 (and a modded one as well) and I would put money down on a 690 anyday :) :hap2:
 
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