Both lenses... Choice is yours which one you want to opt for...blueren said:
in other words, which one you can afford at that moment..
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in other words, which one you can afford at that moment..
Practically speaking.. you dont need a UV (for protection) filter for your kit lens...Aces170 said:
Kit lens is not the one with "damn awesome " image quality.. and a cheap UV filter will badly degrade the image quality of it...
and if you plan to get a good quality UV filter, it would be coming for about half (or one third) the price of your kit lens...
Again, kit lens is not so auspicious that you need to care about its protection so much..
Better to use that money to get a good CPL (or ND if landscaper)..
PS : this is globally said, personal view...
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make sure that you get the one which fit to it... no idea about Tokina 11-16mm, but many wide angle lens fails to use normal filters because of their bulgy front glass...vb86 said:
this was the reason, why nikon 14-24mm didnt had a filter for it for long time... and when one filter came, it succeeded in getting huge hype and news..
actually, i plan to get a uv filter or a clear filter only for protection. i'd rather scratch my filter than the lens itself. regarding the bulge factor, that is the very reason i want a slim filter. the hoya pro-1d clear filter was available in HGK. its not too thick. might just get that. B+W is way too expensive. the only B+W i plan to get is the ND 110 which will be a little later.
@aces, if you're using a regular18-55 lens, you would already know that they are decent lenses, nothing great. i would say, keep a filter on for protection but a low quality one will degrade the IQ. go for a hoya for around 1k or maybe a little more.
@aces, if you're using a regular18-55 lens, you would already know that they are decent lenses, nothing great. i would say, keep a filter on for protection but a low quality one will degrade the IQ. go for a hoya for around 1k or maybe a little more.
Regarding the use of UV filters, I'd always recommend using a Hood at all times than using a filter.
A filter (even a good one) can severely degrade some characteristics of the lens like flare, ghosting, highlight rendering and vignetting. I don't use a filter on any of my lenses - which go through a LOT of abuse - but I do use Hoods on every single one of them!
Use a hood and get rough with those lenses!
Payne
A filter (even a good one) can severely degrade some characteristics of the lens like flare, ghosting, highlight rendering and vignetting. I don't use a filter on any of my lenses - which go through a LOT of abuse - but I do use Hoods on every single one of them!
Use a hood and get rough with those lenses!
Payne
Then also.. not the cheap ones... atleast decent ones from Hoya or equivalent..._pappu_ said:But you may want to have a few cheapo filters handy, incase you want to shoot out of a moving car, or in extremely dusty winds like those of my gujjupradesh
my camera cant reach f1 or such.. the max f-stop it can attain is f3.5 and tat too wen i am at 18mm.. i hav a 18-55 mm lens..
This f-stop thing is a property of the lens.. or did i buy a screwed camera...
This f-stop thing is a property of the lens.. or did i buy a screwed camera...
leviathan16 said:
Its a property of the lens.... your camera is fine....
A f1.8 50mm lens has max aperture 1.8 nothing more than tht is possible....
Your stock lens is 18-55mm f3.5 to 5.6...
18mm Max f3.5
55mm Max f5.6
What about the old Canon EF 50mm f/1.0L USM? But it is discontinued now.vb86 said:
Canon EF 50mm lens - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
cant wait
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-D.Payne- said:Yep, tons of f1.4 glass out there and two f1.2 lenses from Canon (the 50L and the 85L).
@pappu: Sweeeet! Congrats man! Enjoy the gear.
Should I post about my new acquisition too?It ain't quite entry-level.
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