Buying a repasted GPU

Typhon

Forerunner
Seller says he has repasted the GPU. I have never done this and not sure what the card condition is.

GPU experts, please help assess whether the below card is in good condition and has not been tempered with other than repasting.

Before:
84424fa9-6a8b-4c89-a192-13373b7f6354.jpeg


After:
7fbd21fe-5273-4ace-ac59-b5ce618493c4.jpeg


He says he had repasted the card earlier as well. Did it again right now and have shared the latest pics with me.
 
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Well, before, it looked fine - the paste seemed a little dried out but normal. After, it looks terrible, with too much paste and the old paste not cleaned off, leaving stains. The amount he poured could be excessive, around 3gm, which is insane. Who would reapply paste so frequently when one application can last for 3-4 years? Could he have been using it for cryptocurrency mining? It's better to be vigilant, ask for all the details, and mainly check the idle and stress temperatures.
 
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Personally, I avoid buying GPUs that have been re-pasted, even though I know they might work fine afterward. It just gives me a bit of an uneasy feeling. I can't always trust the skill of the person who did it, was it their first re-paste? Were they careful enough? You just can't know for sure.

What I >>can<< tell is that once a card has been opened, there are clear signs. For instance, you can usually spot marks on the screws. If there aren't any visible signs, you'll often notice the screw tightness while unscrewing them. If they feel uneven, it's likely a sign that a human did the work. In a factory, screws are torqued to exact specifications, so they all have a consistent feel when you remove them. First-timers often over-tighten screws, which puts unnecessary stress on the die.

Another common mistake is not following the correct screw-tightening order. If there are four screws, for example, one for each corner of something, they should be tightened in this specific sequence: 1 -> 3 -> 2 -> 4 and repeat, and even then, it should be done gradually, little by little, to ensure no corner experiences excessive stress.

And the worst of it all, how will know you that card was not overclocked, overclocking causes elevated temperatures on components and elevated temperatures are killer of the electronics.

Additionally, while most components on the board have ESD protection, this can degrade over time, especially if the card is exposed to static charges from improperly grounded hands. This can lead to premature failure. There are a lot of little things like this that can make a difference, which is why I prefer to avoid re-pasted GPUs when I can.

If you are getting it for cheap, it doesn't matter, but if it's expensive, I suggest just buy a new card.
 
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Personally, I avoid buying GPUs that have been re-pasted, even though I know they might work fine afterward. It just gives me a bit of an uneasy feeling. I can't always trust the skill of the person who did it, was it their first re-paste? Were they careful enough? You just can't know for sure.

What I >>can<< tell is that once a card has been opened, there are clear signs. For instance, you can usually spot marks on the screws. If there aren't any visible signs, you'll often notice the screw tightness while unscrewing them. If they feel uneven, it's likely a sign that a human did the work. In a factory, screws are torqued to exact specifications, so they all have a consistent feel when you remove them. First-timers often over-tighten screws, which puts unnecessary stress on the die.

Another common mistake is not following the correct screw-tightening order. If there are four screws, for example, one for each corner of something, they should be tightened in this specific sequence: 1 -> 3 -> 2 -> 4 and repeat, and even then, it should be done gradually, little by little, to ensure no corner experiences excessive stress.

Additionally, while some components on the board have ESD protection, this can degrade over time, especially if the card is exposed to static charges from improperly grounded hands. This can lead to premature failure. There are a lot of little things like this that can make a difference, which is why I prefer to avoid re-pasted GPUs when I can.

If you are getting it for cheap, it doesn't matter, but if it's expensive, I suggest just buy a new card.
I never knew the screw order sequence! Is this applicable for CPU coolers as well? And damn, I am guilty too of tightening the screws a bit too much.
 
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Seller says he has repasted the GPU. I have never done this and not sure what the card condition is.

GPU experts, please help assess whether the below card is in good condition and has not been tempered with other than repasting.

Before:
View attachment 232190

After:
View attachment 232191

He says he had repasted the card earlier as well. Did it again right now and have shared the latest pics with me.
which gpu is it?
which paste did they use? (not all pastes are good for gpu cooling, not even noctua, i had to say it to emphasis some weight)
how are the results after in tests?
are they bent heat sink fins?
what kind of repasting is this in before and after, bro just dropped some paste and didnt even bother to clean previous one?
-----------------

I never knew the screw order sequence! Is this applicable for CPU coolers as well? And damn, I am guilty too of tightening the screws a bit too much.
yes, screw order or the excess stress/pressure on pcb what ever you wanna call it. over-tightening/excessive stress can produce all sorts of problems
e.g.
- if too much stress it can literally turn off south bridge, yes, me overtightening my mobo's southbridge heat sink caused it to run with single southbridge and that too at higher temps. (i was lucky that south bridge chipset didnt crack)
- it can cuz hinderance in signals, resulting in crashes and booting issues.
-----------
cpus want stress (more like the cover of cpu), chipset, memory and gpu are good with just making good contact they dont like stress/pressure contact
 
which gpu is it?
which paste did they use? (not all pastes are good for gpu cooling, not even noctua, i had to say it to emphasis some weight)
how are the results after in tests?
are they bent heat sink fins?
what kind of repasting is this in before and after, bro just dropped some paste and didnt even bother to clean previous one?
-----------------


yes, screw order or the excess stress/pressure on pcb what ever you wanna call it. over-tightening/excessive stress can produce all sorts of problems
e.g.
- if too much stress it can literally turn off south bridge, yes, me overtightening my mobo's southbridge heat sink caused it to run with single southbridge and that too at higher temps. (i was lucky that south bridge chipset didnt crack)
- it can cuz hinderance in signals, resulting in crashes and booting issues.
-----------
cpus want stress (more like the cover of cpu), chipset, memory and gpu are good with just making good contact they dont like stress/pressure contact
It’s an RTX 3080. He used an average thermal paste - Sub Zero C14.

I am attaching more pics for assessment.

Benchmarks:


91b7164c-a4e4-4138-a61e-d0a11f8c58e5.jpeg
5e53615c-af3b-41ba-9933-42552abf059b.jpeg

I also have a video for 2.5 mins where the temp goes to 83, hotspot to 93, vram to 90. He hasn’t undervolted the card though.
 

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Quite high for triple fan.
Although it's Furmark, which is a power virus, and the 3080 itself is a power hog, those temps seem okay-ish. They could be slightly better. 3080s also have notoriously high memory temps.

I have a 3080 FE (3 years old, never repasted), in winter, with a maxed out power limit of +115, max overclock, 370W+ drawn in some games, I usually top out at 66- 70 °C on the GPU, 78- 83 °C on the hotspot, and 92-94C on the memory. Same figures during the summer, but with everything on stock. Wouldn't dare push my luck. :dead:
 
Although it's Furmark, which is a power virus, and the 3080 itself is a power hog, those temps seem okay-ish. They could be slightly better. 3080s also have notoriously high memory temps.

I have a 3080 FE (3 years old, never repasted), in winter, with a maxed out power limit of +115, max overclock, 370W+ drawn in some games, I usually top out at 66- 70 °C on the GPU, 78- 83 °C on the hotspot, and 92-94C on the memory. Same figures during the summer, but with everything on stock. Wouldn't dare push my luck. :dead:
These temps are without UV?
 
Seller says he has repasted the GPU. I have never done this and not sure what the card condition is.

GPU experts, please help assess whether the below card is in good condition and has not been tempered with other than repasting.

Before:
View attachment 232190

After:
View attachment 232191

He says he had repasted the card earlier as well. Did it again right now and have shared the latest pics with me.
I help a lot of people in my circle build systems from used parts. Its just to help them, this is not my work. Do it as a hobby in my free time as I simply love building systems.
I have purchased 10-15 second hand GPUs in last 2-3 years. Every single time the GPU is out of warranty, I repaste and re-pad the GPU. I buy 1, 1.5 and 2mm thermal pads and always have high quality thermal paste and if doing it, I do it properly. Its small expense but it helps a lot.

If anyone says they have repasted the gpu, I redo it myself. I dont trust anyone else's work other than few people i know right from the early days of TE community. Those I can trust.
I bought couple of 3080s and a 3090 from facebook market place where the seller claimed to have repasted GPU and they had done terrible job. GPU was fine but repasting job was absolute $#!t$#0w. Thermal pads were broken, displaced, not covering vrms and memory chips properly. Thankfully gpu was fine and is still working fine after repasting and re-padding the card.

This card definitely needs thermal pad replacement and proper repasting. he seems to have added the addtional paste blob without first cleaning out old thermal compound. Thats the worst thing you can do. This should not discourage you if you are getting a good deal.

So keep that in mind. Be prepared to do it yourself and I do not discourage people from taking this jump. You have to start somewhere. Everyone has to. Its not difficult, take your time. Make sure you do not knock off small components, do not use pressure when cleaning the old thermal goop with alcohol + cotton ear buds. First time it might take couple of hours but its doable even for a novice. You will have guides on how to disassemble any particular card on youtube if you havent done it before.

Just make sure card is working propely at the time of buying with no obvious signs of existing hardware issues like artifacts and card works in windows peoperly.