yes using that only thing I love in this machine
have stopped using 15or 30min cycles now all normal clothes go into the mix load for 45 min [ heavy soiled go into cotton 60C for 1.3 hrs]
good right? also have stopped using comfort now
How to clean the inside of a washing machine and keep it that way
- Thread starter blr_p
- Start date
good right? also have stopped using comfort now
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Quasar
do you have any idea how much detergent it dispenses per load?
So if you fill 1 litre detergent then how many washes do you get?
At last
What temperature is the mix cycle set for?
Yes very good. Bet this was the culprit.
Does Samsung really think their specialised no-cleaning-product-required tub clean cycle can get rid of fabric conditioner residue ?
We will know soon enough when people show up with same smell problems inspite of running the no cleaning product tub clean cycle as recommended.
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nRiTeCh
Oracle
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Quasar
Because its cheaper for the volume you need to clean and doesn't need to be heated.
@proletariat can you give your review so those unfamiliar can understand?
Like what?
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Quasar
What do you mean by expired? You can ignore the date on the box. According to the law they have to say two years. So even table salt supposedly 'expires' in two years
Citric acid sweats but it doesn't go bad
Tub clean on LG and use the entire packet which should be 100gm I think
Okay I'll give it a goWhat do you mean by expired? You can ignore the date on the box. According to the law they have to say two years. So even table salt supposedly 'expires' in two years
Citric acid sweats but it doesn't go bad
Throw the whole thing inside the drum or in the detergent tray?
I'm also yet to use that water hardness test kit
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Quasar
Put it in the tray so it washes out detergent residue
What are you waiting for?I'm also yet to use that water hardness test kit
Expiry date on that thing means something
Descaler in the tray
Lizol directly in the drum. If you use the tub clean option then three scoops or 180ml into the drum.
Descaling & disinfecting at the same time.
@rockstah
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The hot water already does the disinfecting everytime the machine is run right? I'm gonna try only the descaler.
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Quasar
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Quasar
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Quasar
Right so most of the time it's run at 40. The few odd times at 60 isn't enough to disinfect.
Quick wash Is the most used cycle?
What about fabric conditioner?
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Quasar
Since @anmolbhard004 didn't answer my question on auto dosage and amount of detergent used per wash I looked it up and its clear that the default Bosch advise is overdosing detergent.
So how does Bosch do this auto dosing business?
According to their video
50ml? Is quite high for a normal soil load in soft/medium water. If you measure the volume of the screw on cap provided by say Surf liquid it works out to around 40ml. Interestingly the UK Surf liquid imports I got also use a similar volume cap.
I would use 30 ml for those conditions and heavy soil. According to Bosch I need 80ml. More than double. 40ml tops but I can get away with less.
In fact if you subtract 20ml from those recommendations you will arrive at the right starting amount.
Note that I said starting, meaning you have to adjust from there to suit your conditions.
Looks like you have to reprogram the default amounts your machine uses
@anmolbhard004
Or at least verify what the default detergent settings are. That is if you don't want to waste your money on excess detergent and machine problems.
Excess liquid detergent residue also leads to faster than normal mould growth.
His recommend of two tablespoons is 30ml. Adjust up if required.
I still find a lot of suds in his ideal amount. It might seem no suds means not enough detergent used or clothes too dirty but I find my full load of medium to heavy soil clothes come out clean after a nearly 3h Cottons 60 cycle with prewash selected.
You can also get more suds if you were washing just towels than regular clothes with the same detergent amount. As towels trap air and this then creates more suds. Doesn't mean one was overdosed and the other underdosed
In the end, all that detergent has to be rinsed out. If you see too much foam at the end of the last rinse it means you need an extra rinse or use less detergent next time.
From the little you've told me I would add Lizol when doing the descale. Otherwise run a second cycle with Vanish as advised in the first post.
Can't mix vanish & descaler hence two washes. Whereas Lizol doesn't react with descaler and you get two for one.
So how does Bosch do this auto dosing business?
According to their video
50ml? Is quite high for a normal soil load in soft/medium water. If you measure the volume of the screw on cap provided by say Surf liquid it works out to around 40ml. Interestingly the UK Surf liquid imports I got also use a similar volume cap.
I would use 30 ml for those conditions and heavy soil. According to Bosch I need 80ml. More than double. 40ml tops but I can get away with less.
In fact if you subtract 20ml from those recommendations you will arrive at the right starting amount.
Note that I said starting, meaning you have to adjust from there to suit your conditions.
Looks like you have to reprogram the default amounts your machine uses
@anmolbhard004
Or at least verify what the default detergent settings are. That is if you don't want to waste your money on excess detergent and machine problems.
Excess liquid detergent residue also leads to faster than normal mould growth.
His recommend of two tablespoons is 30ml. Adjust up if required.
I still find a lot of suds in his ideal amount. It might seem no suds means not enough detergent used or clothes too dirty but I find my full load of medium to heavy soil clothes come out clean after a nearly 3h Cottons 60 cycle with prewash selected.
You can also get more suds if you were washing just towels than regular clothes with the same detergent amount. As towels trap air and this then creates more suds. Doesn't mean one was overdosed and the other underdosed
In the end, all that detergent has to be rinsed out. If you see too much foam at the end of the last rinse it means you need an extra rinse or use less detergent next time.
How often is quick wash used? Guesstimate a percentage
From the little you've told me I would add Lizol when doing the descale. Otherwise run a second cycle with Vanish as advised in the first post.
Can't mix vanish & descaler hence two washes. Whereas Lizol doesn't react with descaler and you get two for one.
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Quasar
So here's the prompt I used with chatGPT
Is Lizol safe to use to clean washing machines
The sudsing problem goes away when mixed with citric acid or any similar working descaler.
The descaler helps dissolve detergent residue or scaling which can harbour microorganisms.
The Lizol then directly goes after microorganism colonies. Its a good one two punch
If there is no residue buildup after rinsing then getting on clothes isn't an issue.
Affresh is a good option. Ideal in fact but not affordable in India. Which is why I went with Vanish.
Calgon is a water softener and not for machine cleaning.
My DIY solution that WILL work is Lizol & citric acid.
Over a year now using it I see no problems at all.
If you understand what makes a machine smell over time and if left untreated will break front loader internals then you understand that a microbicide like Lizol will get the job done effectively when dosed properly and affordably.
The machine cleaners they recommend are expensive and are used sparingly as a result or in smaller amounts as to make the product useless. Perfectly fine if you also make sparing use of your washing machine (!)
Grok was up next
The inside of a washing machine IS a hard non-porous surface like a floor. Therefore no Lizol gets absorbed which could become a future health hazard.
A half litre of vinegar is recommended here but vinegar isn't good for rubber seals.
Lizol contains QATS which very effectively targets microorganisms that too with a neutral pH.
The other more pertinent reason is it's a trusted product for what it does. Hard surface cleaner. Cleans floors. Other floor cleaners if not branded will be less effective which then makes dosing a pain to figure out.
My concern with Lizol as mentioned before is using too dilute a dose as to be useless giving the user a false sense of security. But I think that question has been resolved as discussed a few pages back.
PS this post was done purposely to pre-empt others also using AI for the same. I've started throwing a lot of laundry questions at chatGPT as I get more comfortable and the answers have been useful. Will post later some findings I've made.
Is Lizol safe to use to clean washing machines
The concentration is so low (1%) that residue buildup isn't an issue. Besides its recommended to do two rinses after anyway.
The sudsing problem goes away when mixed with citric acid or any similar working descaler.
The descaler helps dissolve detergent residue or scaling which can harbour microorganisms.
The Lizol then directly goes after microorganism colonies. Its a good one two punch
With a pH of 7 I doubt this will be an issue. Usually it's products with more acidic pH that are harsh on internal rubber seals. eg. Vinegar
If there is no residue buildup after rinsing then getting on clothes isn't an issue.
True, which is why you add descaler at the same time.
Forget IFB descal because I can't see it descaling anything.
Affresh is a good option. Ideal in fact but not affordable in India. Which is why I went with Vanish.
Calgon is a water softener and not for machine cleaning.
Mixing the two so they neutralize the other? How many times does this BS have to be called out !!
My DIY solution that WILL work is Lizol & citric acid.
Over a year now using it I see no problems at all.
Why isn't it recommended for internal cleaning. This 'not recommended' line is a great way to tell you not to do something without giving the real reason. Challenge anyone who says this and nine times out of ten they won't know or come up with some BS answer.
If you understand what makes a machine smell over time and if left untreated will break front loader internals then you understand that a microbicide like Lizol will get the job done effectively when dosed properly and affordably.
The machine cleaners they recommend are expensive and are used sparingly as a result or in smaller amounts as to make the product useless. Perfectly fine if you also make sparing use of your washing machine (!)
Grok was up next
So what if it's not mentioned?
The inside of a washing machine IS a hard non-porous surface like a floor. Therefore no Lizol gets absorbed which could become a future health hazard.
So do those two rinses after then. You are more likely to develop health issues from a dirty machine than the product being used here to disinfect it. Think about that before you crap your pants.
Chlorine bleach contains sodium hydroxide as a stabiliser. Which is harsh on plastic. We've already discussed this earlier in this thread and it was recommended to use Soma water purification tabs. Search the thread for the recommended dose. Those tabs serve a similar functionality as Lizol and are a suitable alternative microbicide. Incidentally these tabs are affordable in India but exorbitant abroad. In the sense you can't buy in the small affordable quantity we get here.
A half litre of vinegar is recommended here but vinegar isn't good for rubber seals.
Lizol contains QATS which very effectively targets microorganisms that too with a neutral pH.
Not available in India that too discontinued since Oct 2023
They are never going to approve it. The beauty of using Lizol is it's a non targeted product therefore cheap. Anything more specialised will cost much more for similar results.
The other more pertinent reason is it's a trusted product for what it does. Hard surface cleaner. Cleans floors. Other floor cleaners if not branded will be less effective which then makes dosing a pain to figure out.
My concern with Lizol as mentioned before is using too dilute a dose as to be useless giving the user a false sense of security. But I think that question has been resolved as discussed a few pages back.
PS this post was done purposely to pre-empt others also using AI for the same. I've started throwing a lot of laundry questions at chatGPT as I get more comfortable and the answers have been useful. Will post later some findings I've made.
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Quasar
For a while I've wondered whether percarbonate on it's own was sufficient.
I've heard arguments that cleaning would be better if percarbonate was combined with a surfactant meaning detergent.
Which detergent to use? Hand Dishwash stuff is all high foam.
I've tried with 5gm of Surf powder but that also foamed. Because the percarbonate is releasing carbon dioxide.
But any dishwasher detergent is by default low foaming and designed to cut through grease.
Earlier I was experimenting with some Finish tablets and was unhappy with the result. Because these finish tabs are only 10% percarbonate which is a far cry from the 60% of Affresh tabs.
But combining say 1 or 2 tabs with a 50gm scoop of percarbonate just might do the trick.
To be continued....
New problem
To my surprise the last packet of Vanish I used foamed like crazy using the directions from the first post even with the mops I added to control the foam. I wonder what changed.
So now need to find an anti-foaming agent to add.
Asked chatGPT and it came up with some interesting suggestions.
Best Antifoaming Options for Washing Machine Cleaning:
1. Silicone-Based Antifoam (Most Effective)
Reduces foam instantly.
Very stable across a range of temperatures and pH levels.
Widely used in detergents and cleaners.
2. Nonionic Surfactants (like alcohol ethoxylates)
Help break foam but may not be as fast-acting as silicone.
3. Mineral Oil-Based Antifoam
Less common in household cleaners but still effective.
Can leave residue, so usually used in industrial settings.
4. DIY Alternative (Quick Fix)
A few drops of cooking oil can kill foam in a pinch.
Works by breaking surface tension.
Not ideal long-term—can leave greasy residue or interfere with cleaning.
What Not to Use:
Borax, as we mentioned, won’t help much with foam and could cause buildup if overused.
Vinegar or baking soda—good cleaners, but not defoamers.
Recommendation:
If you're making or choosing a washing machine cleaner, look for a product with a silicone-based antifoaming agent (often labeled as "dimethicone" or "simethicone"). Or, if you're DIY-ing, keep foam under control with small amounts of a silicone defoamer made for cleaning products.
1. Silicone-Based Antifoam (Most Effective)
Reduces foam instantly.
Very stable across a range of temperatures and pH levels.
Widely used in detergents and cleaners.
2. Nonionic Surfactants (like alcohol ethoxylates)
Help break foam but may not be as fast-acting as silicone.
3. Mineral Oil-Based Antifoam
Less common in household cleaners but still effective.
Can leave residue, so usually used in industrial settings.
4. DIY Alternative (Quick Fix)
A few drops of cooking oil can kill foam in a pinch.
Works by breaking surface tension.
Not ideal long-term—can leave greasy residue or interfere with cleaning.
What Not to Use:
Borax, as we mentioned, won’t help much with foam and could cause buildup if overused.
Vinegar or baking soda—good cleaners, but not defoamers.
Recommendation:
If you're making or choosing a washing machine cleaner, look for a product with a silicone-based antifoaming agent (often labeled as "dimethicone" or "simethicone"). Or, if you're DIY-ing, keep foam under control with small amounts of a silicone defoamer made for cleaning products.
Only the first is suitable. And it recommends using a defoamer used with cleaning products.
Where to find a silicone anti foaming agent. I would need to look for other products that had this defoamer either dimethicone or simethicone.
Then chatgpt asks whether I want a cleaning recipe that includes this silicone based antifoamer?
Why not
Awesome! Here’s a DIY washing machine cleaner recipe that includes a safe and effective antifoaming option:
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DIY Washing Machine Cleaner with Antifoam
Ingredients:
1 cup baking soda – cleans, deodorizes, and softens water
1 cup white vinegar – breaks down grime, scale, and kills odors
5–10 drops tea tree oil or eucalyptus oil (optional) – for antimicrobial power and scent
2–3 drops of silicone-based antifoam (dimethicone or simethicone, optional but effective)
You can use baby gas drops (like Mylicon or similar) if they list simethicone as the active ingredient
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DIY Washing Machine Cleaner with Antifoam
Ingredients:
1 cup baking soda – cleans, deodorizes, and softens water
1 cup white vinegar – breaks down grime, scale, and kills odors
5–10 drops tea tree oil or eucalyptus oil (optional) – for antimicrobial power and scent
2–3 drops of silicone-based antifoam (dimethicone or simethicone, optional but effective)
You can use baby gas drops (like Mylicon or similar) if they list simethicone as the active ingredient
Baby gas drops eh. Mylicon isn't available but the Indian equivalent is Colicaid
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Says it's got simethicone. Its cheap and available from any pharmacy. Perfect.
Comes with a dropper. Put one dropers worth of Colicaid into the drum. Like through the holes of the steel drum. Added the fabric and Vanish to the drawer and fired her up.
After twenty minutes on tub clean its generally choking with foam but this time it wasn't. So the simethicone in the baby drops worked
Foam was a little over halfway which I still find is too much. Next attempt will be with two droppers full of these baby drops. So around 10 drops. Doesn't take a lot of silicone to reduce foam.
Now nobody can complain about this anti foaming agent since it's intended for internal consumption by babies
Another non targeted product in the mix. Yay.
Amazed. Never would have figured this out on my own. Good stuff chatGPT.
PS this is only for front loaders as percarbonate alone (without an activator like TAED that is in Vanish) will not activate below 50C which is close to the max any top loader can handle. This is why I don't like top loaders as they are harder to clean.
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