PC Peripherals HX620 breaking my system??

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SiriusB

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I don't know how but quite a few things happened just after I added a corsair hx620 to my system:
-My OC broke. I had to back down the ram and cpu volts and clocks to stock, else windows won't load or won't orthos.
-This is more strange: my creative xfi sound card causes windows to freeze (with a constant high volume, horrible screaming from the speakers) if unplug my headphone and plug in my stereo cable.

IDK what's happening but it's probably due to heat from the psu. Or faulty volts supplied by the psu? Or perhaps unshielded em from the psu??
Please help :(
 
Assuming you haven't sold your old PSU, why don't you try running your PC on that and test? At least you'll know if it's the new HX620 acting up and can RMA it.
 
I'll do that though it'd be a pain. One thing I noticed is that this psu is noticeably more hotter running than my Antec TP2.0 480w psu. Which is all the more baffling since this thing's more efficient than the antec.
 
Is the screaming noise from the speaker continuous? Can you upload a recording of that screaming noise?

I'm curious to know because I get a screaming noise from both speakers and headphones, never imagined it could be the PSU, altho I dont have any random freezing issues.
 
Looks like the PSU is faulty... check the voltages with a DMM and see whats being supplied. I have a seasonic built NeoHE and it runs stone cold.
 
^I checked the 12v and 5v rails with dmm and it was

12v=12.19~12.20

5v = 5.05~5.06

Haven't tried reinstalling the antec yet but I am pretty convinced the corsair's at fault since all this happenned just after I installed it. The only other thing I changed recently is my apc ups and that too was a few days before I bought the corsair.

@tifosi,

It's not the same noise everytime but yours' is probably a different thing coz the noise in my case is accompanied by m/c lock-up.
 
the voltage seems to be a lil on the higher side, but nothing which should cause wat u r having

give the antec psu, it seems to be the only sureshot way of finding out
 
SiriusB said:
The only other thing I changed recently is my apc ups and that too was a few days before I bought the corsair.

Possibly a problem between the APC and the power supply - easiest thing to do is bypass the UPS for a while and see if the problem goes away. I have read about APC UPS's giving problems to some brands of power supplies - UDIT has a cold start problem with his APC and HX620 as do I with my APC and Antec TP II 550.
 
SiriusB said:
^I checked the 12v and 5v rails with dmm and it was
12v=12.19~12.20
5v = 5.05~5.06

Haven't tried reinstalling the antec yet but I am pretty convinced the corsair's at fault since all this happenned just after I installed it. The only other thing I changed recently is my apc ups and that too was a few days before I bought the corsair.:S

@tifosi,
It's not the same noise everytime but yours' is probably a different thing coz the noise in my case is accompanied by m/c lock-up.TRUE
This must be the 4th or 5th time i am hearing about a possible possibility of APC UPS screwing around with the PSU.:no:

Have you run your rig with the antec with the UPS before u switched to the HX620?:huh:
And did the problem occur instantaneously the first tie you booted with the corsair or after sometime or after few days?:P

Please try running your system with the corsair but straight from the wall socket first; i.e. without the UPS in between.
Try your previous OC if possible and check for stability if it happens.

If it doesnt happen, it means the PSU and/or the UPS are faulty.

Then back to the Antec and without the UPS first.
So you should be able to replicate your original thing.
Then with the UPS- so as to rule out any fault in it.

Which model of APC?:cool2:

And i am very very sorry to ask this- if you were running a 3200+ and A8NE off the TP2 480, did you really need to switch to the Corsair? :ashamed:
 
the most bad thing you have done is - upgraded the system (ram or whatever it is) when the system is in OCed mode :no:
 
BIKeINSTEIN said:
And i am very very sorry to ask this- if you were running a 3200+ and A8NE off the TP2 480, did you really need to switch to the Corsair? :ashamed:
Update 'Choppu' today eh.:bleh:
Damn- you definitely needed a new psu.:P

iosoft said:
the most bad thing you have done is - upgraded the system (ram or whatever it is) when the system is in OCed mode :no:
the most bad thing you have done is - not reading the thread properly, not understanding his problem, not helping in any way by your comment.:no:
 
Eh? UPS can cause such problems? That might make the testing a bit easier, ie, just to change the ups. I have my old apc 500va too with me.

The first time I switched on my system with hx620, it went in to windows no problem. But after sometime, the system locked up. Then it started happening quite frequently. I backed down on the OCs till I was back at stock and the m/c seems to be a bit stable. Even now vista would freeze as it is booting up or at the login screen. Sometimes I get graphical anamolies at the bios or at windows before it locks-up. Sometimes I get one continuous beep at post which will go away if I restrt the m/c after a few seconds.

I'll try without the ups and all. But I'll do this later coz now that my m/c is somewhat stable, I want to get some of my work done...

Another interesting thing is that, the day I installed my apc 1kva ups, the wiring for my house at the mains/fusebox, kinda melted and we had to spend the night with no fan/ac. I thought it was a coincidence or something, now it looks like the apc cud've done that too. But this was before I had the corsair and started having these issues...

My current rig is at http://www.techenclave.com/forums/rig/viewgallery-456.html
 
@SiriusB ... have your house wiring checked - make sure the earth is proper and the negative and positive are not reversed in the wall socket where the computer is plugged in.
 
getting continuous beeps?? RAM problem comes to mind

do either or all of these

1. change the ram stick with another and then try

2. lower down the ram freqeuncy so 400Mhz

3. run memtest at both low speed and high speed of RAM

4. place the current RAM stick in another slot
 
I think I found the problem... it's the power. When my new APC battery melted the wiring for my flat, the lousy electricians somehow "undervolted" my flat :@

I had stopped using powerchute because in vista the mainserv.exe thing used by apc for managed shutdown constantly occupies 50% of cpu. But I installed it again and I just checked my apc powerchute "Current status" and found that the input voltage is ~200V and my battery is set to medium sensitivity.

So the ups, I assume, in-turn has been under-volting my system. This would explain the broken OC and freezing while booting or in windows.

I set the sensitivity to "high" and the system is back on its feet although now the ups is constantly providing boost according to powerchute. The soundcard problem has gone too, although I don't see how it cud've.

Thank all you guys for your help. Now to call in those stupid electricians again and :@

Which brings me to another doubt I've had for sometime and never asked anyone. Sorry if it's silly: If there's low voltage in the mains, will the EB cost increase or remain the same?
 
When there's low voltage, your power consumption will go down a bit (not in the same ratio, as some devices will draw extra current to compensate).

It will be possible to kill many devices - refrigerators and ACs specially, if they don't have a stabiliser.

I'm not sure that the voltage is that low. Tubelights will be difficult to turn on. I would suspect something wrong with the UPS input circuitry or its monitoring software. It is just not posssible for an electrician to 'undervolt' your domestic electric supply, unless you're using the Chennai trick of 3-phase connection, and the supply being derived from phase 1 and phase 2 instead of phase 1 and neutral.
 
Hmm...then maybe it was "under-amping"? Because powerchute said that I was drawing ~324W windows idle when I was having trouble, and now powerchute says that it's ~384W windows idle. Interestingly enough, Antec TP2 was drawing ~420W windows idle with medium sensitivity. This might explain why that psu wasn't affected.

What's the "chennai trick"?? I thought 3-phase current was used everywhere.

I don't know much about wiring and stuff. Actually, I was getting current only in one phase since "the meltdown". I called another electrician today and he said it was a miracle my house didn't blow up coz we were running 3 A/Cs and everything on one phase... oh well.
 
A lot of houses in Chennai are wired to automatically switch from one phase to the other in case of a power failure. It's a very dangerous procedure, and usually achieved by a humungous board inside your house. I'm also not sure how legal it is.

This had blown up my refrigerator and AC stabiliser (the equipment was safe, just the stabilisers went) on switching.

Normally houses are supplied with two separate lines, but off one main phase. There is a power line for heavy duty equipment (water heaters, fridge, AC and all the 15 amp lines) and a low-current line for lighting and light appliances (the 5 amp line).

3 phases are supplied by the electricity company, and it's a little difficult to explain, but each of the phases has a timing lag between them (120 degrees). Industrial equipment runs of all three phases without a neutral. This allows lower current draw (at a higher voltage) and lower total cabling cost for industrial units and the power company.

In Chennai some domestic units take these three phases and switch between them when the power on one is out. Sometimes the neutral is routed to the next phase instead of the neutral, and this can cause havoc with your equipment if it's a little more complex than a tubelight.

Strangely enough, I still think your UPS is fried. Maybe hooking the Corsair directly to the mains will work - inadvisable as it is, I know what Chennai power is like - at least to test it out.
 
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