Inverter damaging CFLs :(

Well i haven't gone that deep into research.
But i can tell you this , the temperature of the battery atleast in my case is mostly at room temperature or warm but still less then human body temperature.

You have to coat the two terminals with vaciline which is a 100% pure petroleum jelly,this prevents any kind of salt formation.A thick layer of this lasts about a year haven't seen any salt formation and the jelly still remains.
 
I dont think that lead fumes can come come out of the battery. Long time ago I had sawed open a sealed lead acid battery just for curiosity the lead used used was powered lead which was fixed into some sort of mesh, mind you though it was powdered it was damn hard to break it up literally I had to hammer it down for a few times to break it.

As for fumes from tubular batteries I havent seen them using tubulars since 1.5 years with average use of 9 hours /day no incidents and no problems
 
adder said:
But i can tell you this , the temperature of the battery atleast in my case is mostly at room temperature or warm but still less then human body temperature.
Sure and that's the key. At such a low temperature there won't even be steam (water vapour) coming out and that is even when it is being charged. You want the battery to be cool as you get the most life out of it, if it gets warmer then its life gets considerably shortened. From here

The optimum operating temperature for a VRLA battery is 25°C (77°F). As a rule of thumb, every 8°C (15°F) rise in temperature will cut the battery life in half. VRLA that would last for 10 years at 25°C would only be good for 5 years if operated at 33°C (95°F). The same battery would endure a little more than one year at a temperature of 42°C (107°F).

Even if water is less, the battery won't overheat, it will just get ruined slowly as deposits slowly build up on the plates reducing plate surface area to react and subsequently the battery's capacity will drop.

If the vents get blocked for some reason, then the O2 & H2 pressure builds up but temperature will still stay the same until it blows. This is the only risk i can see, make sure those vents are clear.

Otherwise the battery is not like a pressure cooker with high temperature & pressure :)

adder said:
You have to coat the two terminals with vaciline which is a 100% pure petroleum jelly,this prevents any kind of salt formation.A thick layer of this lasts about a year haven't seen any salt formation and the jelly still remains.
Noted but i'm curious why the deposit builds up in the first place. Meaning it should normally happen on the plates inside the battery rather than on the exterior terminal.

flash23 said:
Long time ago I had sawed open a sealed lead acid battery just for curiosity the lead used used was powered lead which was fixed into some sort of mesh, mind you though it was powdered it was damn hard to break it up literally I had to hammer it down for a few times to break it.
We're talking about fumes with flooded batteries here not sealed ones.

We maintain there are no 'lead fumes' coming out of flooded batteries or tubulars.

flash23 said:
As for fumes from tubular batteries I havent seen them using tubulars since 1.5 years with average use of 9 hours /day no incidents and no problems
You get oxygen & hydrogen as natural byproducts of the process. Somehow those gases are being turned into 'lead fumes' by advocates of sealed batteries and painted as a health risk. I have to say that i cannot see how this can occur under normal operating conditions. There seems to be no basis whatsoever to the claim of 'lead fumes' emanating from tubular batteries. And that holds for any tubular battery, whether its no-name back of the alley brand to branded ones, because the chemistry does not support it.

As i google around the only ppl making this claim of 'lead fumes' is Su-Kam. Its misleading and false info :(
 
blr_p said:
S

Noted but i'm curious why the deposit builds up in the first place. Meaning it should normally happen on the plates inside the battery rather than on the exterior terminal.

Well i have used good tubular batteries as well as a el cheapo battery made locally from thrown batteries which i bought for a HT DIY using a car amp.In those batteries you see salt type formation on the negative terminals and a green type salt formation in the positive terminal .This battery had holes and cracks on the top lid when bought new so you can imaging what i mean by el cheapo.

In a good battery like the high end EXIDE EL series you only see salt type formation,in places where the jelly is missing in negative terminal.

They say it occurs due to corrosion.
 
adder said:
You can check them yourself with a clamp meter or multimeter
So i asked three guys already to do this load test and they keep giving me lame excuses.

One of them said a multimeter would not be enough to handle the current and needed a specialised ammeter instead.

I'm getting restless :(

Need a meter that can do a start-up as well as continuous load test so i can spec things out properly.
 
Well a typical multimeter can handle 10A to 20A or 2200watt to 4400watt+ which is more then enough for any appliance.
Go to SP road and get a cheap multimeter/clampmeter or quality one from MECO.
 
Re: Inverter damaging CFSs :(

arun687 said:
Update:

The inverter was in warranty so complained and Luminous technician came and checked out the output using multimeter. It was a freaking 400V. :no:

He mentioned that a capacitor has gone bust in the board and promptly replaced the board under warranty. Now everything fine. :clap: Glad nothing else gone kaput when it was faulty. :ashamed:
how many days they took to visit your place????
 
But the Inverter powers the PSU, n the PSU converts AC to DC and then supplies it to all parts...
So if ur PSU is a good one and properly working, u shouldn't face such problems...
 
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