Making own Water Cooling kit

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the eheim 1250 is a 317 gph(1250lph) 28w and wud cost >5k!

i'd rather save that much money and get a better rad/heater core to use with a submersible.

there's always the MCP655 via sidewinder/petra's if you want a well tested pump for wc
 
..:: Free Radical ::.. said:
the eheim 1250 is a 317 gph(1250lph) 28w and wud cost >5k!
i'd rather save that much money and get a better rad/heater core to use with a submersible.

there's always the MCP655 via sidewinder/petra's if you want a well tested pump for wc
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I dont want that spcific pump, I have just given example of it if I can get that kinda pump locally :).
 
Wow. Some amazing work there. Now i am thinking of starting some project like this to kill time. I can make use of my "OLD" :( College lab for the lathe etc. for the machining part. Let's see what i can come up with. BTW as someone asked above, can someone post a split-up of the costs involved in making a good WC kit ?
 
have almost made my own waterblock, will add pictures soon when I will finalize soldering on it. It wont look that cool because gas welding messed the surface of it. I dont want to mess up copper base plate with gas welding, so I m finding other way to solder copper.

anyone knows how to solder copper to copper?
 
amit_talkin said:
anyone knows how to solder copper to copper?
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Brazing! :)

This's exactly how HVAC technicians join the ends of the copper tubes if you've ever witnessed how they manage the end-connections in the case of split type/cassette type ACs.

They've a portable gas cylinder and a torch which produces sufficient temperatures to join the copper ends. IINM they use a filler material which looks like a copper wire, melts at the junction of contact between the 2 metals.

You can take your stuff to the nearest AC technician and he'd do it.
 
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@Gannu,

My waterblock is ready! I took all parts ( copper plate, copper tube and 2 brass nipples ) to nearby steel-works workshop. He did good job (could be better ) with soldering.

He used silver as filler material to join copper-copper and brass-copper. I m currently testing it for leakage ( will run it overnight ). I will post pictures of block very soon :).

now what left is following

1. mounting plate to hold waterblock on CPU.

2. Radiator ( have found an AC condenser , have to go his factory to select condenser as per my need ).

I m thinking to make acrylic mounting plate, thts the easy to make and block will be then independent of socket mounting so I can use it on any kinda sockets.

well, that was very busy last week, I was busy in collecting all materials ( pump, nozzles, copper plate etc ). Finally got everything , and also wasted money on some materials which are useless now :|.

pictures coming soon..
 
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Me too, but I have had my fill of -ve watercooling, only good old light air for me now. :D
 
okey, here we go,

Hey its not looking that bad as its shown in images. my w705 camera is very poor and bad lighting effect. and its pure copper block so it get oxidized.

top view

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the white material around soldered parts is silver. used as filler material for soldering.

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with acrylic mounting plate

DSC01819.JPG


Finally, mounted on mobo.

DSC01815.JPG


DSC01814.JPG


Dimensions

diemnsions.jpg


What left is radiator , I m confused that should I use AC Condenser or car heater core to make my radiator? any suggestion on this?
 
Great work :) Do you have pics of the inside of the block?

Heater core for sure!!

One more suggestion - use springs and wing nuts for mounting. Makes the pressure uniform.
 
Just wanted to know if the inside has grooves or pins or some other way to increase surface area.

I would suggest that you clean the copper block well and get it nickel plated. Nickel plating prevents corrosion and keeps the block shiny. This aids in good heat transfer from cpu and to water.
 
Nicely done mate! I'd advise you to post scaled down images instead of these large ones which essentially brings down the b/w speed.

+1 for Raghu's suggestions. I was about to suggest using spring loaded screws. If you can get hold of wing-nuts nothing like it. These fasteners should enable tool-less removal of the block.

Are you done with the tubing and the pump? What coolant are you willing to use? Try distilled water. Distilled water being the purest form of water should show no signs of algal growth.

Anodizing the block would be still better but it'd turn out to be expensive! Most water blocks being retailed are anodized.
 
I couldnt think of grooves, pins, nickel plating n all, because I was so excited about making a waterblock 1st!! so I forgot about these things. I have visited so many small factories n units to get this thing done! its not hard, but you just cant persuade these ppl about what exactly what u want! they argue and most of all asked for a sample of the block so they can make it.

well nm, I will keep these things in my mind next time.

about tubing and pump, have got tube and gonna use distilled or boiled water. yet to make own radiator 1st.
 
Gannu said:
+1 for Raghu's suggestions. I was about to suggest using spring loaded screws. If you can get hold of wing-nuts nothing like it. These fasteners should enable tool-less removal of the block.

Are you done with the tubing and the pump? What coolant are you willing to use? Try distilled water. Distilled water being the purest form of water should show no signs of algal growth.

Anodizing the block would be still better but it'd turn out to be expensive! Most water blocks being retailed are anodized.
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Yup, use distilled water. You can add some engine coolant for preventing organic growth.

You will actually be quite surprised at the cost for Ni plating - I have gotten it done for ~Rs200 in Bangalore. Its a simple electrochemical plating process and the reagents arent that hard/costly to get. You can do it any time after the block is made.

Let me know if you find good inline pumps. I have been looking for one too.

Please buy a 2nd hand heatercore from the local auto market - costs ~Rs300. It doesnt seem very worthwhile getting a custom radiator made.

Getting the factories/workshop to get things done is a PITA. I just did most of the work myself when I made my block.
 
Raghunandan said:
Just wanted to know if the inside has grooves or pins or some other way to increase surface area.

I would suggest that you clean the copper block well and get it nickel plated. Nickel plating prevents corrosion and keeps the block shiny. This aids in good heat transfer from cpu and to water.
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You dont actually need these, as water is much more dense as compared to Air.

What you DO need is turbulence inside the block for more efficient heat transfer, and this can be achieved by making 2/3 dimples or small raised or depressed dots at the point where the water jet will first impact inside the block. Thats all there is to it.
 
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