More Intake or Exhaust

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KiD0M4N

Forerunner
Hi guys.........................

After long deliberation and waiting, my RIG is finally complete.

The specification of the rig is:

AMD 64 Venice 3000+ (0528 E6) @ 2.404 Ghz 1.6V
2 x 1 GB Transcend 1 GB Samsung UCCC (8-3-3-3) @ 2.75 V
MSI Neo4 Platinum-SLI w/ 3.7 official BIOS
XFX 7800GT @ 490/1050
2 x Western Digital WD360GD RAID-0 4KB stripe (system drive)
1 x Seagate 250 GB 7200.8 (data drive)
1 x Seagate 40 GB 5400.9 Momentus 2.5" in USB Case (backup and transfer)
BENQ DW1640 w/ latest firmware
MSI 8x DVD Writer
Cooler Master RS-450-ACLX 450W Dual Rail Power Supply
Antec Super Lan Boy w/ PSU
Cooler Master Hyper 6+
Samsung SyncMaster 997DF
Microsoft Keyboard
Razer Copperhead Chaos Green Edition w/ 6.16 firmware
Razer eXactMat
Steel Sound 5h (ordered, should reach me via DHL Express shortly)
APC BACK UPS RS 1000

The system is running fine and dandy, but w/o a AC things inside the case are getting a bit too hot. The case has 1 120 mm fan for intake and one 120 mm Cooler Master Silent fan for exhaust. The total ventilation air flow is around 48 CFM. And i think that is not being enough.

Is there any way to improve the exhaust and intake air conditions?

Also, is it any way to cool a 7800GT ?

Cheers,

Karan
 
I use a Antec P160 case which has a similar basic design as the Super Lanboy case - what I did to reduce temperatures was to add a third 120mm fan to the other side of the 3.5" drive cage - I attached this third fan with cable ties and I run this 120mm fan @ 7v. This brings down the HDD Display card and CPU temps quite a bit. I get very good temps.
I have read a lot of debates in various forums on the issue of More / Less / Balanced Air Intake/Exhaust ratios in computer cases ..... I am from the balanced intake/exhaust camp. I tried all 3 and felt that balanced worked the best for me.
 
By-the-way the latest BENQ 1640 firmware BSMB seems to have some bugs - people are going back one to BSLB
 
Exactly. Saiyan did the same on his Super LanBoy ( On Eazy's advice ) and it brought his G.Card temps down.
 
Freaky said:
and it brought his G.Card temps down.
Click to expand...

By how much ??

I see a difference of about 5C - 7C on HDD CPU and Display card with the additional Pabst 120mm fan runnning @ 7v. A couple of days back I changed this fan to a 90mm fan @ 7v and the Temps went up by about 3C !!
 
Eazy said:
By how much ??

I see a difference of about 5C - 7C on HDD CPU and Display card with the additional Pabst 120mm fan runnning @ 7v. A couple of days back I changed this fan to a 90mm fan @ 7v and the Temps went up by about 3C !!
Click to expand...

hey nice idea eazy..............

but where exactly u mean by "other side of the 3.5" drive cage" u mean the side opposite to the transparent side panel?

i was thinking of ordering a Sunon 90 CFM fan and adding it to a port on the sidepanel (will hv to mod it obiv) but if any other ideas, then it would rock.........

also, how to run the fan @ 7V ? and what CFM is the fan rated at?

frozencpu also has these monster 267 CFM 150mm fans for around $50. if i actually for for the modding, would it be a good idea to add it?

i think the intake is being strained a lot here. because the puny led fan on the front of the SLB is very ineffective at sucking in air. i hardly feel any airflow at the fag end of it.

please advice.

thanks

karan

PS: due to the heightened temps, i am getting artifacts even at stock settings, as soon as i open cabby, the slight artifacts go away.
 
@Karan: i think he(eazy) meant parallel to the intake fan on the front...with the drive cage b/w the two fans
edit: damn slow net conns :bleh:
 
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kidoman said:
also, how to run the fan @ 7V ? and what CFM is the fan rated at?
Click to expand...

to get 7v supply to a fan - take the postive wire from the fan and connect it to the YELLOW (+12v) wire of a Molex connector and take the Negative wire of the fan and connect that to the RED (+5v) of the Molex connector.

I am not an Electronics expert but connecting the 2 fan wires to +12v and +5v gives the fan a supply of 7v which is the difference between 12 and 5 .... WHY you ask ... so do I .... WHY ? .... anyone care to answer why the voltage drops to 7v when the fan is connected this way ? My digital voltmeter confirms the 7v reading.
 
Eazy said:
to get 7v supply to a fan - take the postive wire from the fan and connect it to the YELLOW (+12v) wire of a Molex connector and take the Negative wire of the fan and connect that to the RED (+5v) of the Molex connector.

I am not an Electronics expert but connecting the 2 fan wires to +12v and +5v gives the fan a supply of 7v which is the difference between 12 and 5 .... WHY you ask ... so do I .... WHY ? .... anyone care to answer why the voltage drops to 7v when the fan is connected this way ? My digital voltmeter confirms the 7v reading.
Click to expand...

for the same reason that if you connect two sync 11 KVA lines with 1 @ 11000 V and another @ 10990 V, not much will happen. cuz the diff is what counts. the diff between the two conns is 7 V, the 5V one acts as ground and the 12 V acts as the 7V line. this is due to potential difference.

but then again, why do you run it @ 7V? what CFM fan do you have?
 
Eazy said:
I am not an Electronics expert but connecting the 2 fan wires to +12v and +5v gives the fan a supply of 7v which is the difference between 12 and 5 .... WHY you ask ... so do I .... WHY ? .... anyone care to answer why the voltage drops to 7v when the fan is connected this way ? My digital voltmeter confirms the 7v reading.
Click to expand...

take a duct/pipe.. connect it to 2 taps.. make sure water flow outta one tap is more than from the other. which way does the water flow? ;)

the 5V is 'opposed & compensated' by the 12V and the remaining 7V (12 minus 5) is what u wud be getting..

kidoman said:
but then again, why do you run it @ 7V? what CFM fan do you have?
Click to expand...

there is a minor drop in CFM, but running the fan at lower voltage considerably reduces the noise!
 
i saw my gfx card....... there seems to be a type of plastic covering the heatsink fan assemply? any way to take it off? if i attach 92mm fans to the heatsink on the gfx card, will it help take a few C off?

i definitely wanna give eazy's mod idea a go but dunno how effective it will be with me only having a 48 CFM output fan............
 
hmm............

i took the plunge and placed a 120 mm 48 CFM fan where eazy had indicated. no diff............ same temps......... i need a higher output fan i think.
 
just suspend a couple of fans below the card so that they are blowing air directly onto the card..that shud help in taking atleast 8-10C off the temps
 
kidoman said:
this is due to potential difference.

but then again, why do you run it @ 7V? what CFM fan do you have?
Click to expand...

YES now I rememeber - potential difference....

WHY do I do it - for silence and dust reduction.

what CFM - I bought this fan about 6+ years back so I cannot remember the model number - I have a page from Pabst with about 50 120mm fans listed it is one of these - the lowest CFM for the 120mm fans mentioned on the page is 80+

Pabst fans are made in Germany and are very pricey - they now have a setup in Chennai with outlets across the country. They are 2 wired fans though the one I have has 3 wires - but my motherboard ASUS P4C800ED does not give a reading from the 3rd wire :(

Pabst in India - www.ebmnadi.com
 
Yesterday I picked up this piece of Hardware - Vantec Spectrum Fan Card... dropped my Display card temp by 4C..... there was one sample piece only - but the shop is going to have a bulk import soon. I did not get a firm price but paid an amount of 1k to be adjusted when price is fixed. The guys will also be getting Vantec Tornado and Stealth fans. I picked up one 120mm Vantec Stealth fan too.
 
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