Need suggestions for purchasing a new AirCon.

The conformal coating that you put is for PCB, while it does pass the heat, it will certainly changed the efficiency of the system to the worse. You have to see if you have sprayed on any sensor. But unless its a hot and cold AC there won't be any sensor in the outdoor unit condenser coil.

If the coil of the outdoor and indoor unit has dust or any other stuff that reduces the thermal conductivity, all of this will have a effect.

If your AC is cooling more then it should, then the indoor unit sensor may be bad. Or the air being sucked by the indoor unit is still hot. While the air below in the room is colder.
 
If your AC is cooling more then it should, then the indoor unit sensor may be bad.
The cooling is more primarily because the AC is oversized for my room. My room does fine with 1.25 T(previous one), but this one is 1.5T. To compensate, I would run the AC at 80% efficiency or 1.2T. But since I cannot reduce the tonnage, it operates at 1.5T, hence the excess cooling. It's not too much, but certainly cooler than what it was before.
But unless its a hot and cold AC there won't be any sensor in the outdoor unit condenser coil.
Then what could be causing this issue? If the regulating feature of pcb had gone bad then it won't have regulated the compressor speeds at all. It wold operate as a start-stop-start model.
There's one at the back of the ODU, but its for measuring the ambient temperature.
It is only this function(reduced tonnage) that is not working. If I run at 110% capacity, it does take it as input and goes full power.
 
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Can anybody help me in understanding why does keeping the blower at the lowest speed increases the power consumption? Or is my AC acting weird? I mean when I keep my blower at the lowest speed after reaching the desired temps, it starts to gradually increase but not to drastic levels. However, when I increase the blower speeds to one level up, it starts to again decrease the power to the lowest possible.

I did manage to clean the AC fins with a solvent which helped in removing silicone to a good extent.
 
Can anybody help me in understanding why does keeping the blower at the lowest speed increases the power consumption? Or is my AC acting weird? I mean when I keep my blower at the lowest speed after reaching the desired temps, it starts to gradually increase but not to drastic levels. However, when I increase the blower speeds to one level up, it starts to again decrease the power to the lowest possible.

I did manage to clean the AC fins with a solvent which helped in removing silicone to a good extent.
Because the ac temp sensor works on return air temperature. If the blower is at the lowest speed, it is not getting enough cold return air and assumes that the room is not cold enough (because of the presence of hotter air at the topmost level of the room), thereby increasing the compressor speed/runtime.

If you want to keep the blower at the lowest speed, say due to noise, you should also turn on the ceiling fan at the lowest or second lowest speed to spread the air evenly. This will bring down the compressor speed/runtime and by extension, the power consumption of the AC unit.
 
I think the sensors attached to the ODU may have gone bad, especially which controls the speed on the compressor. This could be the reason for overcooling as the compressor won't slow down much as it reaches the set temperatures. I mean, it does. But when it reaches 400-500W, it stays there for a long time. I have to raise the temperature by a degree to shut down the compressor. The again decrease the temp to restart the compressor and then it would stabilise at 260-280W.
Any idea how much do these sensors cost?
 
Can anybody help me in understanding why does keeping the blower at the lowest speed increases the power consumption? Or is my AC acting weird?
What are you using to measure power consumption ?

When it comes to measuring Alternating Current be it multimeter or power meter, they must be able to measure RMS otherwise you're wasting your time.

I do not trust that Wipro smart plug you use on the subject of power consumption !

Pity yours does not have the ThinkQ feature as the power measurement is actually quite accurate and detailed compared to the equivalent offered in ThinkQ washing machines. The downside is it needs to be connected to wifi otherwise it can't measure correctly. Nothing beats a standalone meter as I've recommended earlier. No wifi, less points of failure equals more accurate especially when it comes to long term monitoring in weeks and months. Otherwise slightest errors from some hiccup or other can compound quickly and you get meaningless data.

Check out the other videos on LG AC on his channel especially this one on power saving tips.

Does he say to run fan at lowest speed ? no, he says the opposite.
 
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I do not trust that Wipro smart plug you use on the subject of power consumption !
I agree that the Wipro meter won't be entirely accurate. My main objective was to get a fair knowledge about how much units were consumed for my earlier fridge and the new AC and comparing it with the electricity bill. I was never concerned with full accuracy coz I never had any use for it. Was just looking for some numbers, especially for the fridge to convince my Dad to go for a new one given the higher units consumed, despite being not that accurate.
Pity yours does not have the ThinkQ feature as the power measurement is actually quite accurate and detailed compared to the equivalent offered in ThinkQ washing machines. The downside is it needs to be connected to wifi otherwise it can't measure correctly. Nothing beats a standalone meter as I've recommended earlier. No wifi, less points of failure equals more accurate especially when it comes to long term monitoring in weeks and months. Otherwise slightest errors from some hiccup or other can compound quickly and you get meaningless data.
My first choice was to get a LG wifi model. But the showroom person advised against it as he said they had received lot of complaints about wifi model. Hence we decided to go for a non-wifi one. I knew ThinQ would go head to head with Mirai feature from Panasonic. Also, we trusted the seller coz we had got many appliances from him and they were all good. Any seller wold be willing to sell you whichever model you want, coz once you have issues, you deal with LG directly.
Check out the other videos on LG AC on his channel especially this one on power saving tips.
Yup, I watched all of his videos on LG ac and his videos convinced me to go for LG given the energy saving features, and ease of maintenance. Unfortunately, I do not have access to the front panel of the ODU so cannot clean the inside of the ODU. The only accessible parts are the rear fins(with some difficulty) and the side panel(with fins). Managed to clean them with garden hose and then screwed it up by spraying conformal coating. The only reason for this coating was Ac's don't last more than 6-7 years in my area, unless you have some protection(blue, gold fins). I could barely use my earlier hitachi model for 3 years before corrosion and leakages got the worst of it. So didn't want my new AC to suffer from the same fate. Guess, being over-protective has its drawbacks too... learnt it the hard way.

Any suggestions on how to remove the gunk which sticks to the fins? Due to high humidity , the wet dust sticks to the fins unlike dry dust which can be removed easily with water. Will scrubbing it with toothbrush help to remove it?

Does he say to run fan at lowest speed ? no, he says the opposite.
His conclusion is in concurrence with what I read. Most suggested to run at normal to high speeds, except if its very humid. Since, humidity in summers here are around 80-85%, I run in slow mode to bring humidity levels to 65-60% and then increase the blower speeds.
 
His conclusion is in concurrence with what I read. Most suggested to run at normal to high speeds, except if its very humid. Since, humidity in summers here are around 80-85%, I run in slow mode to bring humidity levels to 65-60% and then increase the blower speeds.
1) Always use the cool mode in India. Fan mode is utterly useless, Auto mode is for people who don't know what they want - and also don't get what they want. Dry mode is for places where temperature is LOW and humidity is HIGH. e.g. Cherrapunji/Munnar kind of hillstations that are not really cold but become humid during rainy seasons. Cool mode is meant for India - where it becomes hot (humidity is secondary)

2) Cool mode also reduces humidity. If you look at the drain pipe, you will find water dripping, that means humidity in your room is getting condensed and thrown away. Cool mode works the best when you have high speed draft. Which means it is preferable to keep the fan speed as high as possible. Why does this happen? It is because the convective heat transfer coefficient (between the cooling coil and air) increases with air speed.

3) The only problem with Cool mode comes is when the temperature set point is close to the ambient temperature. In this case, since the room temp is already nearly at set-point, the compressor cut's off and thus no condensation happens (hence no reduction in humidity). Dry mode is meant for such situations. Temperature set-point on dry mode is usually not obeyed by the Compressor, and the AC unit will continue to function even well below your set-point temperature. Mostly under this condition the fan will intermittently switch on and off (compressor runs all the time).
 
Temperature set-point on dry mode is usually not obeyed by the Compressor, and the AC unit will continue to function even well below your set-point temperature.
I am assuming dry mode is the same as monsoon mode, cause in my ac it shows monsoon mode. Also, won't the blower operate at lowest possible speed to remove as much condensate as possible?
Mostly under this condition the fan will intermittently switch on and off (compressor runs all the time).
When you say fan, do you mean the fan attached to the out door unit or the blower?
 
I agree that the Wipro meter won't be entirely accurate. My main objective was to get a fair knowledge about how much units were consumed for my earlier fridge and the new AC and comparing it with the electricity bill. I was never concerned with full accuracy coz I never had any use for it. Was just looking for some numbers, especially for the fridge to convince my Dad to go for a new one given the higher units consumed, despite being not that accurate.
The value of accurate numbers at the beginning is to get a baseline you can rely on and compare with years later. How it performs when new at a set task compared to 3 or 5 years later can alert you to any impending problems or reassure that all is still good. I'd get those meters since I find you are quite interested in this data.
My first choice was to get a LG wifi model. But the showroom person advised against it as he said they had received lot of complaints about wifi model. Hence we decided to go for a non-wifi one. I knew ThinQ would go head to head with Mirai feature from Panasonic. Also, we trusted the seller coz we had got many appliances from him and they were all good. Any seller wold be willing to sell you whichever model you want, coz once you have issues, you deal with LG directly.
Should have asked here. I can't fathom what problems people would have with the wifi models other than connectivity issues and a lot of that is down to their setup than the AC. Guy in the store is on his side. Not yours. That youtuber was saying back in 2016 people were advising not to go with inverter units and he found that doing just that was the best decision he took.
Yup, I watched all of his videos on LG ac and his videos convinced me to go for LG given the energy saving features, and ease of maintenance. Unfortunately, I do not have access to the front panel of the ODU so cannot clean the inside of the ODU. The only accessible parts are the rear fins(with some difficulty) and the side panel(with fins).
The most important thing i learnt from his videos is must have easy access to clean the outdoor unit if you want long life. I see no reason for these units not to last at least ten years or more if properly maintained. And the installation was done correctly at the start with vacuuming the lines.
Managed to clean them with garden hose and then screwed it up by spraying conformal coating. The only reason for this coating was Ac's don't last more than 6-7 years in my area, unless you have some protection(blue, gold fins). I could barely use my earlier hitachi model for 3 years before corrosion and leakages got the worst of it. So didn't want my new AC to suffer from the same fate. Guess, being over-protective has its drawbacks too... learnt it the hard way.
Something isn't clear here. Didn't you already get a unit with those blue/gold fin protection ? why would you then need to put a conformal spray on top.
Any suggestions on how to remove the gunk which sticks to the fins? Due to high humidity , the wet dust sticks to the fins unlike dry dust which can be removed easily with water. Will scrubbing it with toothbrush help to remove it?
How easy is it to access. You say you can't get to the front. Does that mean its hanging off the outside wall of your building ?

Easiest way to remove sticky dirt is to use a pressure washer or any jet wash. Smaller units are noisier. Otherwise it will take more manual work.


Doing it more frequently say every couple of months instead of every six months means less buildup accumulates than after a long break.

How well can you see ? what appears clean in normal light might be anything but in stronger light. Looks quite dark inside. Get a head torch.

Wet dirt comes off easier than dry. Hot water cleans better than room temperature water. Detergent makes water wetter so it penetrates better. Dirt is acidic and detergent neutralises it.

Maybe a pressure sprayer like this could help dislodge sticky dirt.

Wet it, give it a few minutes to soak in then gently prod it with a soft bristle brush without damaging the fins.

Take it a little off, hit it with the water again, let it soak and start brushing. May take several attempts removing layer by layer.

As to whether to use plain water or soapy water dissolve a few drops of liquid dishwash detergent to further loosen the dirt.

There's two problems with that :

1) If you don't wash all the soapy water off it will act as a dirt magnet and future buildup will be harder to remove than before.
2) soap residue is higher pH than regular water and will increase corrosion if left on the pipes.

Up to you whether to use plain hot water in a jet spray or add a little detergent to it.

His conclusion is in concurrence with what I read. Most suggested to run at normal to high speeds, except if its very humid. Since, humidity in summers here are around 80-85%, I run in slow mode to bring humidity levels to 65-60% and then increase the blower speeds.
Ah, he lives in Delhi so summer for him is dry so high fan speed. He recommends lower fan speed in the monsoons due to humidity which you are experiencing already so that advice won't work in your area.
 
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I have a Panasonic AC. About 4 years old now.
It's been out of warranty for years.
Although great product, maintaining it post warranty is extremely expensive.
It's PCB got fuc*ed. Now they want 16k for it. Wish I had bought a non-inverter AC in the first place.
 
I have a Panasonic AC. About 4 years old now.
It's been out of warranty for years.
Although great product, maintaining it post warranty is extremely expensive.
It's PCB got fuc*ed. Now they want 16k for it. Wish I had bought a non-inverter AC in the first place.
Would suggest getting it repaired by a third party service provider like Urban Company. 16k is too much for a inverter PCB. Seems like they are trying to rip off customers as much as possible. I would blame the "authorized" service networks for this absurdity.
 
Something isn't clear here. Didn't you already get a unit with those blue/gold fin protection ? why would you then need to put a conformal spray on top.
Judge me for this, but I did this to increase longevity. After my Hitachi AC started giving problems in 3y time and the frequency increased with time, I lost faith in brands, more so in the Japanese ones. Couldn't fathom that even after spending more than 50k, I got a dud machine, a victim of cost-cutting. No vacuuming(back then, even I didn't knew what was vacuuming), naked copper pipes, lazy enough to not study India's different weather setup, thereby not giving any protection for the coils That was my first AC and hence a learning curve.

So when I got this LG one, I didn't want to take any risk with what the brand advertised. Since residing in moisture and chemical prone area, I wanted to give additional protection so that there is no standing water on the ODU to cause any rusting and later on corrosion. So while spraying the top of the ODU, I decided to spray on the fins too, thinking it would prevent dirt and water sticking to the fins.
Actually, I was to go for a spray which offered protection against humidity and rusting, but the Aerol representative advised to go for conformal spray. Offcourse, he was thinking I needed a spray for the PCB, coz frankly, who gives protection to the ODU since it's already built to last.

How easy is it to access. You say you can't get to the front. Does that mean its hanging off the outside wall of your building ?
It's hanging off the outside wall of my room. There is a small passage where I can get down and clean the AC from the rear and the side. I can also clean the rear from the window but it create a hindrance. As seen, the distance between the front of the AC and the window grill is less, so I cannot get my hands in there, let alone a screw-driver. Refer images below.
The dirt ain't sticky in the summers. During monsoon, when the rain trickles down from the top of the building to the bottom, it brings water mixed with dirt. On landing on the ac and the fins, water evaporates away with heat and wind, leaving behind dirt which becomes dry and starts sticking to the fins.
If you seen Charlie's video, he has dry dirt clogging his fins given he lives in Delhi. So it can be easily removed with water. Also the rain intensity is less in Delhi so the exposure to dirt laded water is low. But that is not the case here cause the monsoon lasts for a good 3 months with very heavy rains in July.

Easiest way to remove sticky dirt is to use a pressure washer or any jet wash.
Wouldn't the Karcher pressure washer be a overkill for the fins? I don't think the fins would last long under such pressure. I had given a thought on the jet wash, but again thought the garden hose is the best as you can control the pressure to minimise the impact on the fins.
The one from KWEL seems have much lower pressure which would be tolerable by the fins.

How do you clean the dirt on coolant pipes? I am seeing some buildup from the rear.
The value of accurate numbers at the beginning is to get a baseline you can rely on and compare with years later. How it performs when new at a set task compared to 3 or 5 years later can alert you to any impending problems or reassure that all is still good. I'd get those meters since I find you are quite interested in this data.
Can you give a personal example from your experience? A simpler one to actually help me understand the versatility of having such a meter. Also, does the RMS meter store value for 3-5y long? Any particular model you use. I have seem YT videos showing power consumption using Meco RMS Energy meters.
 
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I am assuming dry mode is the same as monsoon mode, cause in my ac it shows monsoon mode. Also, won't the blower operate at lowest possible speed to remove as much condensate as possible?

When you say fan, do you mean the fan attached to the out door unit or the blower?
Yes dry mode = monsoon mode. In this mode, compressor runs nearly continuously, and blower fan switches between lowest speed and being completely off.
What I meant Fan = blower.
 
If you want to keep the blower at the lowest speed, say due to noise, you should also turn on the ceiling fan at the lowest or second lowest speed to spread the air evenly. This will bring down the compressor speed/runtime and by extension, the power consumption of the AC unit.
Is it necessary to use the ceiling fan? Will any other fan work? The reason why I am a lil hesitant to run ceiling fan at night is because, it runs at full power throughout the entire day. It goes through wear and tear through friction, heat. So I wanted to give the fan a rest and hence I keep it switched off at night when using AC. I do a have a wall mounted fan whose direction of air throw is the same as that of the AC. Will using this wall mounted fan do the job of circulating the air like that of the ceiling fan?
 
That should also work. However, from my personal experience, ceiling fans are mostly built to last, especially if it is an older model. The ones we have in our house are more than 42 years old and some of them runs 24x7.
 
That should also work. However, from my personal experience, ceiling fans are mostly built to last, especially if it is an older model. The ones we have in our house are more than 42 years old and some of them runs 24x7.
So last night I kept the ceiling fan on and blower at the lowest speed. Power consumption varied between lowest(180W before shutting off) and 400+W. Observed it for more than an hour and it was the same. So decided to increase the blower speed by 1 level and only then the power reading was constant at 180-200W. On remote, I keep it at 29C, but in reality temps drop to 25-26C, which is cold for me.
My numbers may not be that accurate as my Wipro meter won't read RMS, but for the sake of number for comparison, let's take it to be fairly accurate.
 
So last night I kept the ceiling fan on and blower at the lowest speed. Power consumption varied between lowest(180W before shutting off) and 400+W. Observed it for more than an hour and it was the same. So decided to increase the blower speed by 1 level and only then the power reading was constant at 180-200W. On remote, I keep it at 29C, but in reality temps drop to 25-26C, which is cold for me.
My numbers may not be that accurate as my Wipro meter won't read RMS, but for the sake of number for comparison, let's take it to be fairly accurate.
Keep the ceiling fan at fastest speed and AC Blower also on fastest.
You are wasting the cooling capacity of your AC by keeping the the blower on low.
Which city/town/village do you live?
 
Keep the ceiling fan at fastest speed and AC Blower also on fastest.
You are wasting the cooling capacity of your AC by keeping the the blower on low.
Which city/town/village do you live?
Mumbai. I keep the blower at low speed to allow the humid air to have more time through the colder coils and extract the condensate. I run it for like 20 mins and then increase the blower speed when humidity level lowers to 60%.
@Kaleen Bhaiya Does your ac have support for thinq app, In app also you see the energy consumption
I don't think so. THINq app is only for wifi models.
 
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