Need suggestions for purchasing a new AirCon.

But won't the clamp meter give me an idea as to what he has done.
If he has used gas to purge the system, then the ampere would be less than the stated value and if he has left air in the system, the ampere rating would be higher.
What would be the ampere value if there was no vacuuming at all, I mean opening the L-key directly without purging the air?
Yes, if he used the gas to purge the system, then it will show lower amps, exactly by how much is a anyones guess, it varies from machine/ company etc. If there is air inside it will show highers amps( will also show higher pressure in the Gauge, I think he will have to be foolish to increase the pressure by letting air into the system, since it endangers the technician), the amp reading can also vary depending on clamp meter accuracy, even when a clamp meter is new the they still have a tolerance of +/- 2% to 5%, so it will be hard to know depending on the quality and calibration of the meter. This level of perfection is a slippery slope.
 
The second option of letting air into system seems remote also because of the fact that while doing so you keep one end of ODU open and use compressor in on state to vacuum. There is no pump involved, compressor is supposed to do that job. But the image I shared showed one pipe connected to pump, other to oDU.
So he may have purged the system at the cost of gas.
But again this is an assumption coz I have seen youtube video from Fully4World channel which shows how compressor can be used in case vaccum is unavailable.
But apparently, his and other channels(as quoted by one from West) were questioned regarding the negative impact of such procedure.
Let's see how things work out tomorrow.
@adder
So this is what happened today. The guy came today for vacuuming the machine. He told me he locked the gas inside the machine and then he started with the vacuuming. He ran it for, I think, 15-20 minutes. He also showed me that the pressure in the gauge was in the negative territory(which would mean that vacuum is complete). The only gripe I had was they could have run a bit longer but couldn't complain since the gauge was already negative.
After they left, I tried to get the Amp reading using clamp meter. Under full load(16 degrees), the meter showed 0.069-0.072 A(with knob on 20A/200A). My ODU mentions 7.1A operating current. So I am assuming everything is now fine.
I honestly don't know if this is right or wrong since I was expecting total discharge of gas from the system, vacuum, then recharge. He was their ablest man so had to trust them. Too tired to follow up with this. First the washing machine and then this.
I just hope it turns out fine.
 
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live in a area closer to the coast so corrosion is a big issue.
I used to live in an area close to an open drain so similar issues. From my experience, most ACs eventually going to face these issues and I haven't been able to find a permanent fix for this. Your best bet is to go with an LG AC with their Ocean Black coating and purchase the longest duration extended warranty along with it. Like you've mentioned, LG has good after sales support and if you take the extended warranty, you're covered for a very long time even if there's any issue with the AC.
 
@adder @Silent47Assassin or anyone having experience with inverter ac's.
So, I have a situation with my new LG AC. I set my ac at 27 degrees. But it seems that ac reduces the temperature to less than what is set, like it goes upto 25 degrees. I thought the ac work while achieving the set temperature and once reached, it tries to maintain the temperature. Or am I wrong somewhere?
So right now I set the ac at 28 degrees at 60% efficiency so that I don't end up chilled and the temperature remains at a bit higher than 26. If I set at 28 deg with 40% efficiency, the compressor shuts down which defeats the purpose of inverter ac.

Also, after how much time does the efficiency/power saving feature kick in? I am assuming max 30 minutes.
 
@adder @Silent47Assassin or anyone having experience with inverter ac's.
So, I have a situation with my new LG AC. I set my ac at 27 degrees. But it seems that ac reduces the temperature to less than what is set, like it goes upto 25 degrees. I thought the ac work while achieving the set temperature and once reached, it tries to maintain the temperature. Or am I wrong somewhere?
Cooling beyond the target temperature happens in inverter ACs when you oversize the AC. The thermal load it has to deal with is significantly lower than its minimum cooling capacity, and being an inverter model, it will rather try to keep the compressor on than shut it off completely, eventually ignoring the target temperature. To overcome this, try to find a balance between the operational capacity vs target temp vs thermal load (no. of people, time of day, etc).

28 deg with 40% efficiency, the compressor shuts down
This sounds weird, especially when you say target temp of 28 C @ 60% capacity keeps the compressor running. Maybe try 27 C @ 40%?

Also, after how much time does the efficiency/power saving feature kick in?
This is something not typically disclosed by manufacturers, so I cannot say anything with certainty. However, the way it should behave is, the capacity is reduced to the next available lower state (like downshifting in an automatic transmission) the closer the room temperature goes towards the target temperature. However, for some newer models, this may not be the case as the manufacturers decided to remove this automated logic and instead market the models as convertible ones like 5 in 1, 4 in 1, etc. What this simply means is that you get to choose at what capacity you want to run your AC (out of the available presets) rather than a logic board deciding that for you on the fly based on ambient temperature. You can buy a 1.5TR machine and run it as a 0.6TR (40%), 0.9TR (60%), 1.2TR (80%) or 1.5TR (100%) unit depending on your needs.
 
Thanks, will try to run today at 28C at 80%(1.2TR) to see how things work out. Seems like a week to experiment..
This will surely turn off the compressor at one point. Higher percentage means more cooling. You are also setting the target temp higher which means it will be easier to reach. If you want the machine to run continuously, try setting a lower temp and/or a lower percentage. That way, cooling will be uniform and the compressor won't shut down. The system will also not overshoot the target by a higher margin.
 
So already at 28 C at 80% has got the room temperature to 26.4C. On remote it reads 25C.
Let me see what 27C at 40% can do. I hope not to end up with a cold.
 
Does your remote have a onboard temperature sensor.

My daikin inverter AC does cool below the set temperature, this happens only in afternoon, never happens in night. In my case the reason being I have a ceiling height of another 4.5 feet above the indoor unit, so my mi air purfier which is on the floor reports a lower temperature by atleast 2c then the set temperature.

Why, because the indoor unit does have a sensor above the coil to detect the intake air temperature, since the ceiling is constanly heated up by the sun, the air is much hotter as you go higher towards the ceiling(also warm air rises and tends to stay in the ceiling) and the indoor unit can detect even in decimal. So even though it may show that the set temperature and the intake air temperature to be the same(the 8 segment display cannot show anything in decimel) but the microprocessor can read the data from the sensor and as the decimel is getting equal between the set temperature and sensor data, it ramps down the compressor in my case to as low as 8% to 11% power consumption, roughly around .27 ton.

Sometimes it runs as high as 60% to 80% when you set 23c in afternoon. The same temperature at night it runs at 17% power consumption.
 
Does your remote have a onboard temperature sensor.

The remote does have a button labelled as "Room temperature." I also have another display instrument which shows the current room temperature and humidity in the room. It is placed near the wall which receives sunlight after 3pm till 5 pm. When I switch on the ac at night, both the remote and the instrument show 30C. Also before switching off both read 25C so I am assuming remote has a sensor.
My daikin inverter AC does cool below the set temperature, this happens only in afternoon, never happens in night. In my case the reason being I have a ceiling height of another 4.5 feet above the indoor unit, so my mi air purfier which is on the floor reports a lower temperature by atleast 2c then the set temperature.

Why, because the indoor unit does have a sensor above the coil to detect the intake air temperature, since the ceiling is constanly heated up by the sun, the air is much hotter as you go higher towards the ceiling(also warm air rises and tends to stay in the ceiling) and the indoor unit can detect even in decimal. So even though it may show that the set temperature and the intake air temperature to be the same(the 8 segment display cannot show anything in decimel) but the microprocessor can read the data from the sensor and as the decimel is getting equal between the set temperature and sensor data, it ramps down the compressor in my case to as low as 8% to 11% power consumption, roughly around .27 ton.

Sometimes it runs as high as 60% to 80% when you set 23c in afternoon. The same temperature at night it runs at 17% power consumption.

Well, in your case, you have a passive heat source(warm air from ceiling and staying close to the ceiling hence compressor works more hard). In my case, I barely have 1-2 inch space, just enough to remove the filters. Besides, I live on 4th floor out of 8, so no heat source. Also, laptop and a single human (me)are the only heat source at night.
I guess, the only logical explanation in my case would be as mentioned by @Silent47Assassin ... a bit oversized AC for my room and the compressor trying to remain switched on rather than shutting down, eventually causing the AC to breach the set temperature.
My last night's experiment failed.. woke up in the middle of the night, my body chilled. Temps gone low to 25C(on remote and instrument) at 28C @40%TR. Increased my temperature from 27C @40% to 28C@40%. Seems like 28C is a more suitable option for me to play around if using at night.

Wished LG has a sleep mode similar to Hitachi. Increasing temps by 2 degree within an hour seems lame rather than an hourly increase as found in Hitachi.
 
The remote does have a button labelled as "Room temperature." I also have another display instrument which shows the current room temperature and humidity in the room. It is placed near the wall which receives sunlight after 3pm till 5 pm. When I switch on the ac at night, both the remote and the instrument show 30C. Also before switching off both read 25C so I am assuming remote has a sensor.


Well, in your case, you have a passive heat source(warm air from ceiling and staying close to the ceiling hence compressor works more hard). In my case, I barely have 1-2 inch space, just enough to remove the filters. Besides, I live on 4th floor out of 8, so no heat source. Also, laptop and a single human (me)are the only heat source at night.
I guess, the only logical explanation in my case would be as mentioned by @Silent47Assassin ... a bit oversized AC for my room and the compressor trying to remain switched on rather than shutting down, eventually causing the AC to breach the set temperature.
My last night's experiment failed.. woke up in the middle of the night, my body chilled. Temps gone low to 25C(on remote and instrument) at 28C @40%TR. Increased my temperature from 27C @40% to 28C@40%. Seems like 28C is a more suitable option for me to play around if using at night.

Wished LG has a sleep mode similar to Hitachi. Increasing temps by 2 degree within an hour seems lame rather than an hourly increase as found in Hitachi.
If you oversize the AC it will fail to remove humidity, but it idealy should not overshoot the temperature. Did you try experimenting with the vertical louver, try making it parallel to the ceiling/floor. Or if you can use some furniture/object to deflect the cool air such a way that some of the cool air is sucked faster by the AC intake. but thinking of it, your ac lowest compressor speed is 40% so if you do deflect some of the air, it will shut off sooner which will not remove humidity. But hey high humidty helps against getting viral infections, low humidity the opposite.
 
My ac reduces the room humidity from 75-80% to 55% within 15 mins. This is when I run the ac at 23C(remote 30C)for 10 mins and increase it to 28C(remote 27C). All above are at 100% capacity. Because if I let the AC run at 23C for too long, the room will be too cold, the compressor will shut down when I increase the temp to 28C.
I do keep tne vertical louver parallel to ceiling/floor before hitting the bed to avoid direct contact with cold air.
If anything, this boy can really remove moisture from the room like a vacuum.
 
I just was myself searching for a new 1.5 ton split ac, and found this page https://buy.guru/best-split-ac-1-5-ton-price/
Everything else aside, one thing that caught my eye is that despite all being 1.5 ton AC all had different BTU (cooling capacity) and that one whirlpool 1.5 ton magicool Pro 5 star ac had 22500 btu (2nd number in list) which is in some cases 5000 btu (more cooling power??) more than some other brands with same tonnage. I have indeed purchased this unit but thanks to lockdown postponed the installation of the same.

Will surely share my views once I start using it, but that aside, is it marketing gimmick to inflate BTU somehow or is it possible it is more effective?
 
No idea if inflating BTU can be considered a gimmick or not. Recently Gree aircons were at the receiving end when they marketed their AC as running on 250watts. When any ac achieves it's desired temperature, an inverter ac will power down, and that is true with any good reputable ac.
Just highlighting that if wattage can be a gimmick, then why not BTU.
 
My AC usage is very different, mine runs 24/7 and because I need it to do maximum cooling I need to give it a proper wash after taking it out of its installed location every month or so because there is a lot of dust here. Mine usually run at 17-22C in a 16x11x8 room. The AC is a 2 ton variant. Because I keep washing it out of necessity rust is something that I have to accept as vacumming doesn't help me at all. Over the years I have gone through various companies and models of ACs and the only thing I look for is something that has maximum cooling and can run 24x7 for as long as possible without breaking down or requiring cleaning. My space for the AC is a regular sized space otherwise I would only buy OGeneral.

In my opinion after using so many ACs, the best is Mitsubishi/Hitachi for Window (after OGeneral of course) and Daikin for Split. I generally don't like inverter ACs but the Daikin split inverter is decent IMO.
 
My AC usage is very different, mine runs 24/7 and because I need it to do maximum cooling I need to give it a proper wash after taking it out of its installed location every month or so because there is a lot of dust here. Mine usually run at 17-22C in a 16x11x8 room. The AC is a 2 ton variant. Because I keep washing it out of necessity rust is something that I have to accept as vacumming doesn't help me at all. Over the years I have gone through various companies and models of ACs and the only thing I look for is something that has maximum cooling and can run 24x7 for as long as possible without breaking down or requiring cleaning. My space for the AC is a regular sized space otherwise I would only buy OGeneral.

In my opinion after using so many ACs, the best is Mitsubishi/Hitachi for Window (after OGeneral of course) and Daikin for Split. I generally don't like inverter ACs but the Daikin split inverter is decent IMO.
If I recollect, vacuuming helps you clean whatever gaseous impurities exist inside the piping so that they don't affect the efficiency in tne long run. To prevent rusting outside, there needs to be a protective film, blue or gold fins to fight against corrosion. It will age and start corroding overtime, but will improve the longevity of your AC.

Any specific reason for a negative view towards inverter ac?
 
If I recollect, vacuuming helps you clean whatever gaseous impurities exist inside the piping so that they don't affect the efficiency in tne long run. To prevent rusting outside, there needs to be a protective film, blue or gold fins to fight against corrosion. It will age and start corroding overtime, but will improve the longevity of your AC.

Any specific reason for a negative view towards inverter ac?

I may be mistaken here but do you mean vacumming the outside of the AC for cleaning or internal parts? Rusting can't be avoided if I am washing the AC about 10-12 times a year. I do understand it will corrode however I am more concerned with cooling than corrosion, as it stands by the time the AC is about 2-3 years old I need to replace it with a new AC as it just can't cool much anymore due to its continuous operation. At that point it usually makes more sense to buy a new one than try to replace all the worn out parts.

There is only one reason, inverters don't cool as much as regular ACs do in my experience. I do not own any window inverter ACs but I have 3 split inverter ACs.
 
Vacuuming is done when the AC is first installed or when you need to do a refrigerant top-up. It's a one time process as you need to ensure that inside the pipes, only the refrigerant and oil is present for the ac to function properly.
Most installation guys skip this as they need to carry a vacuum pump separately and it costs them time.
The installation manual clearly mentions that vacuuming is a must-do process so that it functions at its optimum.
Have a look at this video to better understand how it is done.

How to reduce rusting..
 
Thanks for the info, I saw the links (without sound), I don't think I've ever seen the AC service guys do that to any of my ACs. What is the purpose of this vacumming? Is it efficiency? The ACs all work so I don't know what the purpose is, maybe you could summarize. Due to dirt need to wash them so the rust/corrosion can't be helped. When they take the AC out to properly wash it with a hose the amount of dirt that comes out of it is staggering.
 
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