Budget 90k+ New PC build for 1080p (maybe 1440p) gaming under Rs 1.5 lakhs

Replies are in Bold.
Rohan99 said:
So I have done it.

Ryzen 5 2600X
MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC
Zotac 1070 Ti Amp Edition
GSkillz TridentZ 16Gb 3000Mhz
Seagate Barracuda 1
ADATA SX8200 Pro
Fractal Design Meshify C
Total Rs 1,04,000 incl GST & Delivery

Just paid the advance, delivery latest by Monday due to shortage of manpower

As few points raised by the guy.
2600x might be Overkill for non OC - Lol, not true. AMD's X CPUs are actually recommended to non overclockers. They have higher clock speed out of the box than their non-X counterparts but if you overclock then the benefit of the X CPU is negated because you can achieve the same clock speeds even with the non-X variant. If you want to overclock then save yourself some money and get 2600 or 2700.
B450 might not be enough for OC - Again not true. Not all B450 boards are created equal. Some B450 boards are shitty overclocker but you'll be surprised to know that some manufacturers actually use the same VRM on some of their X470 boards which makes them not suitable for overclocking. The opposite is also true like in that MSI Motherboard the VRM is borrowed from one of their decent X470 Motherboard. So you're getting a B450 Motherboard with X470 overclocking capabilities. I won't go into much technical details because it will confuse you more.
ADATA servicing issue, he will keep me in loop if a better option is available for under 10K. ADATA is Rs 8,650 - No idea about this. I do have ADATA RAM and SSD but I never had to service it so can't comment on this. Currently their is no better option available under 10K. The other alternative is Samsung 970 EVO but it'll cost you double for the same amount of storage and speed.

Sure I ahve no plans for OC but would like to keep option open if in future I might need it
Any thoughts or opinions ??
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Him said:
Replies are in Bold.
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Thanks, need the peace of mind.

Hopefully I'll I won't need servicing in ADATA.

Another thing bothering me was the case fractal design meshify C and it's servicability in Mumbai, but I don't think that should be a big deal since in the past 7-8 yrs only my GPU, MoBo & SMPS has given me trouble. Last year the button of my cabinet broke other than that no problems with cabinet
 
It is done guy,

I got my pc, ended up getting the Gskill ram

Spent 4 hrs assembling it, had trouble installing the AMD stock cooler but finally got it in place.

Total spent 104K. Great deal

Thanks guys for the help, really appreciate it

Final spec

AMD Ryzen 5 2600x
MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC
Gskillz Tridentz 3000MHz 16 GB
Zotac 1070ti Amp Edition
ADATA SX8200 Pro 512 GB
Seagate Barracuda 1Tb
Fractal-Design Meshify C
Corsair CS650M 650W
 
@Lord Nemesis & @bssunilreddy

My 2600x is idling between 50-60°C, just performed a 60 min stress test using heavyload and it maxed at 85°C. Should I be concerned

The Ryzen master software shows temps between 50-60° with a EDC of 50-55% & max 85° at EDC of 91%

It took me a little time to install the cooler it required a great deal of effort as screwing in 1 screw caused the other to lift up. Had to reposition it a few times to get it in right.

The cabinet has a full front mess and fif intake has 2x 120mm fans and 1x 120 mm rear exhaust fan.

I can add another 120 mm fan in front for I take and 2x 120 mm on top for exhaust
 
Assuming you are using the stock HSF, those temps look fine. Don't forget that this is a 6C, 12T CPU and tends to run a bit hot on air cooling.
 
Lord Nemesis said:
Assuming you are using the stock HSF, those temps look fine. Don't forget that this is a 6C, 12T CPU and tends to run a bit hot on air cooling.
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I disabled the Auto Clock in BIOS and the temps droped drastically. In Idle it came down to 40-45 C and in stress test it max to 65 C.

Should i keep it in Auto OC, the temps look scary, or should i keep the Auto OC disabled ??
If i keep it in Auto OC mode, how will the high temps affect my CPU & Cooler ??

Few thing, All fans are in 'Smart Mode' & RAM Profile is set to 2933 Mhz.
 
Lord Nemesis said:
No, don't use Auto Overclocking. This is crap on all motherboards and often end up using bad and sometimes unsafe settings.
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Yup already disabled it. Found this Game Mode in MSI Command Center which b0osts the clocks to 4.05Ghz and the temps stay 10C less than that in auto OC. Will Use that if need be.

Once last help if you will, When Booting, The CPU, GPU & Boot EZ Debug LED blink for about 20 sec, and then the system will boot in 2-3 Sec.
For wht i red online user have complaint that when the light blinks the system won't start, gut for me it starts and runs great.

I'm a little concerned if i've done something wrong.
 
I have no clue about the debug led status as these are brand and sometimes even product specific. I have a alphanumeric debug code reader on my gigabyte board and it changes several times during the boot process at various stages. You will have to refer the manuals for your msi board to understand what it means.
 
If the CPU and VGA debug LED blinks just once and the system Boots then it is normal behavior. 20 Sec POST time is long, update your BIOS to latest version to reduce it. Also do not update BIOS from Windows. Use the M-flash within BIOS or the BIOS flashback+ present on the Motherboard. BIOS flashing is a bit risky so do take the necessary precautions.
 
AVS infotech has good prices. Currently if gaming is the only purpose , I'd suggest strictly intel
1- 9600k-24k
2- asrock/Asus motherboard -13k
3 - gskill 3200 MHz 16 GB 11k
4- inno rtx 2070-45k
5- SSDs depend on your demand, I'd go for Samsung but I see why people might be compelled by 480 GB @7k
6- aoc 1440p 144 Hz monitor -27k

You're still under your budget and this is far better than other recommendations here
 
I have been pondering the fan setup for my rig.

Currently I have 3 front intake 120mm fans and 1 rear exhaust 120mm fan. I feel I should change the layout to 2 front intake and 1 rear & 1 top exhaust

I have 4 cooler master silent 120mm fans & 2 fractal design 120 mm fans

Suggestions ?
 
Frankly, it won't matter. Those cooler master fans can't move air for their very life. They can operate in a very small area.

In an ideal scenario, your front and back fan configuration is fine, but top can be either intake or exhaust depending on its position at the top and the type of CPU cooler you have. If the top fan is above the CPU area, putting it in exhaust mode can pull away some of the air before it could pass through the heat sink fins or even pull hot air from the lower parts of the system through the CPU cooler which would be even worse. Putting it in intake mode would be good for the CPU, but some of hot air from CPU area could get pushed to the lower parts
 
Lord Nemesis said:
Frankly, it won't matter. Those cooler master fans can't move air for their very life. They can operate in a very small area.

In an ideal scenario, your front and back fan configuration is fine, but top can be either intake or exhaust depending on its position at the top and the type of CPU cooler you have. If the top fan is above the CPU area, putting it in exhaust mode can pull away some of the air before it could pass through the heat sink fins or even pull hot air from the lower parts of the system which would be even worse. Putting it in intake mode would be good for the CPU, but some of hot air from CPU area could get pushed to the lower parts
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Hmm... I really don't want to get new fans, I have too many as it is.

How about I switch the 2 fractal fans as front intake and 1 cooler master as front intake and 1 cooler master as exhaust.

Would that be better. As I have the opposite right now .or. 2 cooler master & 1 fractal as intake and 1 fractal as exhaust
 
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