Water purifier (non ro) with cheap maintenance?
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5 feet from the inside loft tank. I was not worried about the pressure from the loft tank. It's the pressure from the main building water tank I'm afraid of. I'm on second floor of 3 floors building. I usually fill up the machine when there is mains water since it fills up faster. I think a 20 liter bucket fills up in about a minute.
I was looking at the outlet of the prefilter. It is just too tiny. Its the same diameter of the ro pipes. It will drastically reduce flow of water to the washing machine I think (if I'm not wrong). Imagine filling a washing machine with a ro pipe. I've shelved the ideo of attaching the pre filter to the WM.
I didn't get any blue locking clips with the purifier. Called the company customer care add they said it's not required. Cc lady told me to push the pipe snugly to the inlet. The entire purifier did not have the blue clips anywhere too. All the inlets and outlets of the filters, taps, etc - none of them had the clips put in.
Also found something weird. From the carbon filter at bottom, the outlet goes to UF filter and outlet of UF membrane goes to post carbon filter and another goes to flushing valve. Is this how it's supposed to be connected? I thought UF membrane was last in the cleaning process.
Also found something weird. From the carbon filter at bottom, the outlet goes to UF filter and outlet of UF membrane goes to post carbon filter and another goes to flushing valve. Is this how it's supposed to be connected? I thought UF membrane was last in the cleaning process.
Higher thickness PP spun filters last longer by say 2 months more( for me it lasts as long as six months). Your size is the standard size and for me those standard size lasts about 3 months to 4 months depending on the incoming water impurities, if the water coming to building is brown then expect it to last even less. In my village, the water is so pure that the PP spun is more then 3 years old and they still look new.
I just buy around 12 pieces of thicker ones in one go if my supplier has them in stock, the thicker ones they cost about 40% to 50% more. There are many companies, kemflo is a known brand(not saying its best or anything), Your cabon block is standard size any higher thickness in that will effect water flow.
I just buy around 12 pieces of thicker ones in one go if my supplier has them in stock, the thicker ones they cost about 40% to 50% more. There are many companies, kemflo is a known brand(not saying its best or anything), Your cabon block is standard size any higher thickness in that will effect water flow.
Some more questions.
I saw that the pre filters are open at both ends. Shouldn't one end be closed so that dirty water does not come in the internal part of the filter? If I close the bottom inlet of the filter with some plastic cover, will it reduce the effectiveness of the filteration? Do the yarn spun ones last longer compared to these pp spun ones?
I saw that the pre filters are open at both ends. Shouldn't one end be closed so that dirty water does not come in the internal part of the filter? If I close the bottom inlet of the filter with some plastic cover, will it reduce the effectiveness of the filteration? Do the yarn spun ones last longer compared to these pp spun ones?
Haven't used the yarn spun, so don't know. Do not close the filter with anything, The filters have both ends open but the container/housing separates them, normaly you want the water to enter the outer surface of spun or carbon filter and the purified water comes from the inner surface. For the carbon filter a rubber or foam gasket is present on both ends. PP spun filter doesn't need any.
I temporarily installed the water purifier pipe to check the output flow and it's very tiny. It's like dripping water. The output from UF membrane is very less. The output from the flush valve of the UF membrane is normal though. So do I need to buy a pump for this now? Without pump it will take hours to fill a one liter bottle of water.
No, I closed the flush valve completely. I waited for 2-3 hours to see if the flow from the output tap improved. There was hardly any improvement. Even after 3 hours, it was still dripping water.
I removed tap coming from UF filter and the water is coming nicely to carbon filter. The carbon filter in the end is killing water flow for some reason.
Making the output tap leak proof was a hell of a time waste imo. With the input tap open and output closed, the output tap was leaking tiny drops of water here and there. Had to use half a roll of teflon tape to stop it leaking.
The input in kitchen was the best imo. Tried near the wash basin where there was another water point and hardly got anything when i connected just the pipe to see water flow. I don't know why it was happening there. Even the wash basin tap had more flow than this 1/4 pipe. Cleaned the mud and rust from the tap point even before attaching the 1/4 adapter so seems like some problem in that joint.
Problem now is without a pump, I cannot use this anywhere except the bathroom and will be able to use it only when there is water coming from the overhead building tank.
I removed tap coming from UF filter and the water is coming nicely to carbon filter. The carbon filter in the end is killing water flow for some reason.
Making the output tap leak proof was a hell of a time waste imo. With the input tap open and output closed, the output tap was leaking tiny drops of water here and there. Had to use half a roll of teflon tape to stop it leaking.
The input in kitchen was the best imo. Tried near the wash basin where there was another water point and hardly got anything when i connected just the pipe to see water flow. I don't know why it was happening there. Even the wash basin tap had more flow than this 1/4 pipe. Cleaned the mud and rust from the tap point even before attaching the 1/4 adapter so seems like some problem in that joint.
Problem now is without a pump, I cannot use this anywhere except the bathroom and will be able to use it only when there is water coming from the overhead building tank.
Oh, so you are using this with the loft tank inside your floor, in that case the pressure is just too less. In my house the tank is about 10 feet from the tap point where I use the RO with pump, on the bottom floor where the UF purifier is there, the tank is about 12 feet because the UF purifier is kept in the top most kitchen slab and the water flow is super fast, since my house has 1-1/2'' pipes CPVC pipes coming from the tank above.
The RO pumps boost pressure to something like 65psi which is way to high for the UF membrane. You can use a shower pump or in line boosting pump from output of the loft tank like crompton costs about 4k it boosts pressure equal to about 25 feet tank. But it cost about 4k or so.
If you do use RO pump, then you can try a NF membrane but is twice as expensive as RO membrane.
The RO pumps boost pressure to something like 65psi which is way to high for the UF membrane. You can use a shower pump or in line boosting pump from output of the loft tank like crompton costs about 4k it boosts pressure equal to about 25 feet tank. But it cost about 4k or so.
If you do use RO pump, then you can try a NF membrane but is twice as expensive as RO membrane.
Can I use those cooler water pumps that are submersible and boost water to 1-2 meter height? The aquaguard I was using was doing the same - only its pump was not submersible but sucking water from a bucket at around a little less than 1m height. Was quite noisy too.
Something like this- has 1/2 inch outlet. Maybe I can fit the i/2 inch to 1/4 adapter to this if it has threads.
https://www.amazon.in/amiciTool-Submersible-Desert-Aquarium-Fountains/dp/B01AEEP164/
Something like this- has 1/2 inch outlet. Maybe I can fit the i/2 inch to 1/4 adapter to this if it has threads.
https://www.amazon.in/amiciTool-Submersible-Desert-Aquarium-Fountains/dp/B01AEEP164/
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Well not sure of the pressure they have, I do have a big air cooler, with a 2.5m water rating for the pump. But how will you connect that pump, use a bucket of water again?. Those pumps have a plastic impeller and when you force it to a narrow 1/4 inch out, the impeller will probably fail or the windings may get burned. Those pumps fail very often.
What other way is there to have enough pressure so that this filter works? Line boosting pump besides being bulkier, heavier and costlier and overkill for a purifier will also fail someday and it will cost a lot to repair it.
If I cannot use pump, then the only way I see I can use this is to put in in the bathroom where it will be connected to the building overhead tank and can only be used when there is water. Loft tanks inside dont have much pressure in them. Maybe I'll fit it to main pipe and fill up a 40 liter bucket with purified water and store that.
If I cannot use pump, then the only way I see I can use this is to put in in the bathroom where it will be connected to the building overhead tank and can only be used when there is water. Loft tanks inside dont have much pressure in them. Maybe I'll fit it to main pipe and fill up a 40 liter bucket with purified water and store that.
rdst_1
Juggernaut
Get a covered stainless steel container/bucket and put it in the bathroom as you have proposed. Sure it will take a few minutes of your time daily, but this method is the least complicated and that is important too. You can also use a float switch in that bucket so that the purifier unit switches on and off automatically.
I use my UV filter the same way as I couldn't find a point to install it in my kitchen. I now use it manually whenever the water in my covered container finishes. It is a big 500LPH unit and although I could have mounted it over the dishwasher I chose not too as it was getting complicated.
Also, just wanted to share a picture of my bag filter that does 99% of the work in my sediment blocking setup of my borewell water. We used to get this very fine silt in our water which you can see all caked up on the inside of the bag filter. The blown filter hardly gets to do any work and hence has not been changed for the last whole year and will last a couple more years.
This bag filter I use can be cleaned and reused. I use it in rotation with another bag filter that I had bought as a spare.
I use my UV filter the same way as I couldn't find a point to install it in my kitchen. I now use it manually whenever the water in my covered container finishes. It is a big 500LPH unit and although I could have mounted it over the dishwasher I chose not too as it was getting complicated.
Also, just wanted to share a picture of my bag filter that does 99% of the work in my sediment blocking setup of my borewell water. We used to get this very fine silt in our water which you can see all caked up on the inside of the bag filter. The blown filter hardly gets to do any work and hence has not been changed for the last whole year and will last a couple more years.
This bag filter I use can be cleaned and reused. I use it in rotation with another bag filter that I had bought as a spare.
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