New UPS not taking my computer load please help

nRiTeCh

Level N
As discussed in this thread I bought this used UPS APC RS 1500VA

It was a bit charged so once home, I simply powered it on without connecting to mains. All seemed good on battery as on its back port/sockets I tried connecting my 3 phones for charging and then a basic Testing 250w psu with 6 led fans connected. And both the tests passed just fine!!!:)

Ok. Then I kept it for charging for 1h30mins and decided to test my system this time but only on ups backup battery mode.

My system specs:-
Phenom II X3 720BE @ stock
TA790GXA3+
Corsair XMS3 2*4 GB
XFX 9800GTX
Gigabyte Superb 460w
DELL S2240L
WD Blue 320GB
Hitachi 250GB
Samsung 80GB
Seagate 500GB
Seagate 500GB
Seagate 160GB
Creative 2.1 channel
Usb keyboard and mouse
******************************​
Initially I connected my whole spikeguard directly to one of the ups back sockets/ports.(spikeguard had speakers/monitor/cpu/net modem) & it started and shut off within 5 secs. Shockingly!!:coldfeet:
There wasnt any overload indication so I turned off ups and then just connected my spikeguard with only cpu and ips monitor this time and same thing happened.:nailbiting:

What could be wrong?? The ups gives few beeps and only once it gave overload indication.:confused:
The Replace battery led doesnt glow so the battery wont be the issue.
UPS performs POST properly as mentioned in manuals.

Is it mandatory to keep the ups for charging for full charging before experimenting??? But the load of my system is just too low and I think it doesnt need full charging for a demo, just my thinking!:depressed:

I checked my overall system power calculation on eXtreme Power Supply Calculator
upload_2015-3-22_0-48-17.png

&
powersupplycalculator.net
upload_2015-3-22_0-49-38.png


So as seen, approximately it comes to near 380Watts.

Obviously now this UPS is 1500va i.e. 1500*60% = 900w So it should easily handle the 380w load. But it isnt doing so.:wtf:


Also what do the ports Surge only stand for and what devices should be plugged in there?
In what ports shall I connect my spike guard to which will have only cpu/psu and ips monitor connected?
Or should I connect all the devices individually to UPS rather than using spike guard???

This is my UPS manual:-
6fb15c7c-6959-40e3-9031-651e66dfa7d5-000001.png
View attachment 55727

I have kept my UPS for full overnight charging now (8hrs is recommended for full battery charge) to test it tomorrow morning.

Also got no idea whether if its really charging or not coz just the Online Green led glows static and no other leds blinking or lighten up! I guess this is how a ups is to be kept for charging....

Apc and other ups users please help.
Fingers crossed....till tomorrow morning :inpain:
 
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Update ***
Charged ups for 10hrs and then connected just the cpu/psu of my pc. It gave just 32sec backup.

But my 3 phones are still charging alongwith diwali led series running as well.
 
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Update ***
Charged ups for 10hrs and then connected just the cpu/psu of my pc. It gave just 32sec backup.

Means UPS is able to takeup the load. What is the rating of batteries? You might need to change the batteries, as said earlier, backup duration depends entirely on batteries.
 
Is it properly earthed. And remove the batteries and clean the terminal, with Zorrick. Though you may have depleted cells. Anyways you can get the battery checked using an ammeter.
 
Means UPS is able to takeup the load. What is the rating of batteries? You might need to change the batteries, as said earlier, backup duration depends entirely on batteries.
Official recommended battery ratings are 9ah but now Indian battery cos. like exide and amaron long back stopped making 9ah batteries so have to go for 7ah ones. :(

Install the APC PowerChute software and check the current load and estimated battery time figures it gives.
I dont have the data cable--RJ45 to USB Male. Will have to order it from ebay or something as I doubt the cable is easily available locally in computer shops.

Is it properly earthed. And remove the batteries and clean the terminal, with Zorrick. Though you may have depleted cells. Anyways you can get the battery checked using an ammeter.
Took the UPS to nearest Exide battery dealer and he opened it and tested both batteries. On battery mode, one battery is loosing charge quickly from 11.98v to 8.60 etc. while the other battery still stays between 13.97 to 12.**.
So one battery is creating issue & he kept the ups with him and will check it with a brand new battery once he gets it by tomorrow.[DOUBLEPOST=1427030360][/DOUBLEPOST]
[DOUBLEPOST=1427030670][/DOUBLEPOST][DOUBLEPOST=1427031041][/DOUBLEPOST]Whats really eating my head is, even though the batteries arent that bad & one battery is still in good condition, ups should have given me at least a 5 min or so backup as per ups capacity. So dont know why just 28-32secs!!:stop:
If ever the both batteries were not holding the charge properly, then this 32sec backup would have been justifiable.
What you guys think on this factor??:confused:
 
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Also what do the ports Surge only stand for and what devices should be plugged in there?

This port is not connected to the intvertor. So no backup on this port. Only surge protection.

I use this port to connect the laser printer which can use as much as 600-700 watts when printing (and I do not care if it switches off because of a power failure).[DOUBLEPOST=1427031794][/DOUBLEPOST]
I read somewhere that ups shouldn't be tuned On for charging.

Nah. Don't bother. Keep it connected to mains and use it whenever you need it. The electronics inside should be smart enough to take care of the rest.

You probably have a bad battery.[DOUBLEPOST=1427032138][/DOUBLEPOST]
Whats really eating my head is, even though the batteries arent that bad & one battery is still in good condition, ups should have given me at least a 5 min or so backup as per ups capacity. So dont know why just 28-32secs!!:stop:


One can only guess. The UPS circuitry might be shutting down when it senses that the input voltage is below 24v (assuming series connection).
 
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One can only guess. The UPS circuitry might be shutting down when it senses that the input voltage is below 24v (assuming series connection).
Yeah may be. As similar reason was given by that exide guy. But then whats the use of dual batteries if either battery fails or looses charge then too whole system fails!!
A single battery is better then!
 
Yeah may be. As similar reason was given by that exide guy. But then whats the use of dual batteries if either battery fails or looses charge then too whole system fails!!
A single battery is better then!

Were the batteries bought together? Do they have a manufacturing date stamp. Typically, a SLA battery will last 3-4 years.

I believe lead acid batteries are made of multiple cells packaged together. So there is no *single* SLA battery.
 
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Were the batteries bought together? Do they have a manufacturing date stamp. Typically, a SLA battery will last 3-4 years.

I believe lead acid batteries are made of multiple cells packaged together. So there is no *single* SLA battery.

Its an 8yr old ups and batteries were changed in 2k10. Since past 3yr ups was simply lying idle.
 
Its an 8yr old ups and batteries were changed in 2k10. Since past 3yr ups was simply lying idle.

Hmm. I am surprised one of the batteries is in good shape. It may not be. Lead acid batteries do not like being stored for long without charging.
 
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Voltage dropping significantly = dead cell in that battery, i.e. replace it.
RBC33 battery pack voltage is spec'ed at 24V, i.e. the 2 batteries in the pack are connected in series. One battery isn't going to compensate for the other.

BTW I'm pretty sure everyone told you to replace the batteries in your original thread :-
I am not an expert but I dont think 3 year old Exide batteries(normal plated ones, not tubular) can be of much use. I believe they must be at the end of their life cycle
 
Voltage dropping significantly = dead cell in that battery, i.e. replace it.
RBC33 battery pack voltage is spec'ed at 24V, i.e. the 2 batteries in the pack are connected in series. One battery isn't going to compensate for the other.

BTW I'm pretty sure everyone told you to replace the batteries in your original thread :-

That's why rushed to exide dealer and getting that faulty battery replaced.
 
Also downloaded its manual and it says something about "VOLTAGE SENSITIVITY ADJUSTMENT SETTING"
And read the same on other forums.
It is for adjusting voltage to accommodate load.

Cant try that now as ups is in the shop.
 
Voltage sensitivity adjustment is for the AC line voltage, nothing to do with the battery at all. Your UPS works as a voltage stabiliser by switching to inverter mode if the line voltage is outside a specific range.. sensitivity adjustment is used to adjust that range.
 
Voltage sensitivity adjustment is for the AC line voltage, nothing to do with the battery at all. Your UPS works as a voltage stabiliser by switching to inverter mode if the line voltage is outside a specific range.. sensitivity adjustment is used to adjust that range.

I was referring to this-
upload_2015-3-23_0-19-10.png


upload_2015-3-23_0-20-44.png
 
Exactly what I said.

1. Voltage sensitivity adjustment is for the AC line voltage (input voltage - voltage from the AC socket, what is typically 230Vac)

2. Your UPS works as a voltage stabiliser by switching to inverter mode (battery backup) if the line voltage is outside a specific range..

3. sensitivity adjustment is used to adjust that range. (3 sets of ranges as you can see below)



Hope you can understand now.
These only relate to the voltage stabilisation of the UPS, not your current issue with the battery, unless you're asking a new query.
 
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Exactly what I said.









Hope you can understand now.
These only relate to the voltage stabilisation of the UPS, not your current issue with the battery, unless you're asking a new query.

Yes already got that.
But in the table, in point no.1 it clearly states that "Low sensitivity" is “Not suitable for computer load.“ and ups comes with that as the default setting. So if its not suitable for a computer load then what's the point to be on that setting?

So was wondering should I try shifting to High setting which again in the table is a recommended one.

As in similar issue, people have tried experimenting with all those 3 settings in other forums.
 
I would replace both batteries not just one
Yes but as for troubleshooting steps one has to go step by step.

One of those batteries is depleting charge faster and isn't charging past 11.85v while the other one is doing good.
So only when I replace the 1st one, we can arrive on some conclusion!
 
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