Yikes.. Nope.. Can't connect it to any hot water outlet. Since it's a top load I can manually fill a couple of buckets. The issue is the geysers are instant so this task takes time.
What do you suggest one should do to try and get rid of the mold without opening the machine up? Getting quite fed-up of this
Won't a pipe from the hot tap to the inlet work ? if you can make it work with buckets of water that is fine but then it will want more as the program changes isn't it ?
You will need to do some maintenance washes. Try this
Yikes.. Nope.. Can't connect it to any hot water outlet. Since it's a top load I can manually fill a couple of buckets. The issue is the geysers are instant so this task takes time.
What do you suggest one should do to try and get rid of the mold without opening the machine up? Getting quite fed-up of this
Only a complete hot water cycle will remove the mold from the washer drum. I had a similar musty smell coming from clothes.
Edit: You need to remove the mold from drum first and run a hot water wash cycle with the cleaning powder only and no soap in it. Allow the hot water to sit for 1 hour at least in the washing machine.
I used IFB descaler. You can use the Atomic one also.
So i bought borax powder from Amazon and i filled the washing machine with piping hot water from bucket during wash. Borax dissolves only in really hot water. Add a cup of borax with the soap to remove smell from clothes. Even the rinse cycle was in hot water along with comfort conditioner. I wash clothes once every 4 days. Took me 3-4 wash cycles to remove the musty smell. Instead of borax you can use vinegar too, but it leaves some weird smell on clothes.
Even i don't have a balcony. These last two months were hell to dry clothes. Heavy rain, 85+ humidity in the air and no sunlight for weeks in my area.
To dry clothes faster, i set up a small table fan and directed the air to the clothes. Took 8-9 hours to dry out the clothes this way without any smell.
Use Surf Excel matic top load (POWDER) can switch to the liquid version if it helps. Have used liquid in the past too. Don;t use fabric softener/conditioner regularly. Just at times when I felt the clothes were a little smelly. Had no idea about not using it without hot water.
Won't a pipe from the hot tap to the inlet work ? if you can make it work with buckets of water that is fine but then it will want more as the program changes isn't it ?
You will need to do some maintenance washes. Try this
Will probably be out of town for 2 weeks and will have to try when I get back.
It's quite a basic machine. It has 4 modes Turbo, Wash, Rinse and Spin. the Turbo mode is very noisy.
The machine is in the kitchen and there is no geyser/hot water tap there. The Inlet pipe doesn't reach the closest geyser/hot water tap. I think some jugaad might have to be done.
Only a complete hot water cycle will remove the mold from the washer drum. I had a similar musty smell coming from clothes.
Edit: You need to remove the mold from drum first and run a hot water wash cycle with the cleaning powder only and no soap in it. Allow the hot water to sit for 1 hour at least in the washing machine.
I used IFB descaler. You can use the Atomic one also.
So i bought borax powder from Amazon and i filled the washing machine with piping hot water from bucket during wash. Borax dissolves only in really hot water. Add a cup of borax with the soap to remove smell from clothes. Even the rinse cycle was in hot water along with comfort conditioner. I wash clothes once every 4 days. Took me 3-4 wash cycles to remove the musty smell. Instead of borax you can use vinegar too, but it leaves some weird smell on clothes.
Even i don't have a balcony. These last two months were hell to dry clothes. Heavy rain, 85+ humidity in the air and no sunlight for weeks in my area.
To dry clothes faster, i set up a small table fan and directed the air to the clothes. Took 8-9 hours to dry out the clothes this way without any smell.
Will probably order that Atomic powder and fill some buckets/boil some water. Yeah it will be painful but the machine's the landlord and as things stand it does work. Just not very good at it's job
This is the 2008 spec. The 2010 spec is not available for free but we get a decent idea.
4.1 Rated capacity
The manufacturer or supplier shall declare the rated capacity in kilograms for each relevant textile type. Relevant textile types are cotton, synthetic/blends and wool.
NOTE For different textile types the rated capacity of a washing machine is usually different.
The rated capacity for any textile type shall not exceed the maximum mass of dry laundry, in kilograms, to be used in the test washing machine in accordance with IEC 60335-2-7 (refer 4.4).
When the manufacturer gives a range of values for the rated capacity for a particular textile type, the highest value shall be used.
If the rated capacity for synthetics/blends and wool is not specified by the manufacturer, the test load shall be respectively 40 % and 20 % of that for cotton
It's curious why a max load of synthetics is a fraction of cotton despite being lighter.
Another interesting reference is water hardness
5.1.2.1 Total water hardness
For all treatments of the test load prior to a test series and all washing machine test runs in accordance with this International Standard, a total water hardness of (2,5 ± 0,2) mmol/l (hard water) or (0,5 ± 0,2) mmol/l (soft water) shall be used.
Total water hardness is determined and expressed in mmol/l of CaCO3 equivalent.
So officially, hard water is described as 230 - 270 mg/L CaCO3 and sot water is 30 - 70 mg/L CaCO3. A TDS measurement will be reasonably close to these figures but isn't 100% reliable as a measure for water hardness.
The part that gets me is the recommended detergent dose.
Scoops provided with Surf & Ariel are 60 gm. For a cotton full load, they are saying use a full scoop in soft water and 1.5 times that for hard water. They do say these numbers might not match commercial detergents but still this is a high number for a full load. The dose is double that for non-cotton clothes. Insane !!!
Use that much and the detergent perfume comes out very strong. I use a third per wash per full load. Very faint perfume and clean with medium soil. Heavy soil needs more. So 30 gm
It's quite a basic machine. It has 4 modes Turbo, Wash, Rinse and Spin. the Turbo mode is very noisy.
The machine is in the kitchen and there is no geyser/hot water tap there. The Inlet pipe doesn't reach the closest geyser/hot water tap. I think some jugaad might have to be done.
Scoops provided with Surf & Ariel are 60 gm. For a cotton full load, they are saying use a full scoop in soft water and 1.5 times that for hard water. They do say these numbers might not match commercial detergents but still this is a high number for a full load. The dose is double that for non-cotton clothes. Insane !!!
I use a full scoop of surf excel for full load 7kg cotton load, more if the load is soiled and put it to one extra rinse cycle, for daily load I use about half to little over.
In the old whirlpool it spends more time in wash cycle but the Lg spends more time rinsing then washing.
This is the 2008 spec. The 2010 spec is not available for free but we get a decent idea.
It's curious why a max load of synthetics is a fraction of cotton despite being lighter.
Another interesting reference is water hardness
So officially, hard water is described as 230 - 270 mg/L CaCO3 and sot water is 30 - 70 mg/L CaCO3. A TDS measurement will be reasonably close to these figures but isn't 100% reliable as a measure for water hardness.
Scoops provided with Surf & Ariel are 60 gm. For a cotton full load, they are saying use a full scoop in soft water and 1.5 times that for hard water. They do say these numbers might not match commercial detergents but still this is a high number for a full load. The dose is double that for non-cotton clothes. Insane !!!
Use that much and the detergent perfume comes out very strong. I use a third per wash per full load. Very faint perfume and clean with medium soil. Heavy soil needs more. So 30 gm
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Can't move the machine to the closest hot point ? these top loaders aren't too heavy i thought.
So there is no specific clean mode.
Now which is the better mode to use here, hmm. Turbo i suppose agitates more which is good. But does Turbo also mean shorter cycle ?
If Turbo does not do the job, then try the regular wash mode.
You said it was landlords machine that means you are not the first owner and the previous did not do any maintenance.
This means you're going to have to try a few times.
Yes.. the previous owner might not have.. but when we shifted into this place in May 2017 the machine worked perfectly. No smell.. no grime.. no lint at all. i'll have to do some testing when I'm back. Having only instant geysers doesn;t help.
I use a full scoop of surf excel for full load 7kg cotton load, more if the load is soiled and put it to one extra rinse cycle, for daily load I use about half to little over.
In the old whirlpool it spends more time in wash cycle but the Lg spends more time rinsing then washing.
This article will cover how much laundry soap you should use in your front load washer. There are several reasons for not using too much soap, some of which will be covered in this article. A few of these reasons are: shortening the life...
www.wikihow.com
If you're getting foam which i did with an empty load that means detergent deposits on the inside and likely on the spider.
Detergents on the inside raises the pH. Higher pH ie more alkaline contributes to corrosion of the aluminium alloy spider.
Therefore it is better not to have these deposits to begin with. If you get foam then you are over dosing.
It took at least 5 tub cleans in a row until i noticed the foam reduce to minimal levels.
I then halved my usual detergent to 20 gm. I don't use the scoop as its not graduated and instead use 10gm spoon that i can measure more accurately.
Detergent now lasts me twice as long per box. My clothes don't stink of perfume (Henko is the worst for this) and are clean AFAICT.
Yes.. the previous owner might not have.. but when we shifted into this place in May 2017 the machine worked perfectly. No smell.. no grime.. no lint at all. i'll have to do some testing when I'm back. Having only instant geysers doesn;t help.
I wash mostly at 40. Detergents don't activate well at lower temperatures unless you are using something specialised. Hot starts at 60. A few washes at 60.
In terms of power consumption, i find the 40 washes on the Mix cycle are a quarter of a unit and the 60 washes on the cotton cycle are half a unit.
The power draw can spike to 1.8kW as the heater gets going on the 60 wash
I'm not using a full load either i think its closer to 80% full. I will weigh the next load and see how close to 7kg it is.
What this seems to suggest is detergent dosing is proportional to weight more than it is to volume
Nice. Thanks for researching about it and sharing here.
From the link you gave on how much soap to use:
Using too much soap also adds to the smell that most front load machines either have (or will have) over time. The soap is a food for the black mold that grows inside the pipes of your machine, which is what you are smelling when you smell a foul odor. If you have been using close to the correct amount of soap, then you may not have that odor yet but given enough time most front load machines will get that smell.
I just did a wash cycle today and went and smelled the drum. There's just a little bit of hint of mold a bit. Guess I'm using too much soap. I usually use two scoops for a full load which I do every week. Guess I should half it. Before that need to run a hot water cycle with the descaler powder and borax added to remove all mold.
This article will cover how much laundry soap you should use in your front load washer. There are several reasons for not using too much soap, some of which will be covered in this article. A few of these reasons are: shortening the life...
www.wikihow.com
If you're getting foam which i did with an empty load that means detergent deposits on the inside and likely on the spider.
Detergents on the inside raises the pH. Higher pH ie more alkaline contributes to corrosion of the aluminium alloy spider.
Therefore it is better not to have these deposits to begin with. If you get foam then you are over dosing.
It took at least 5 tub cleans in a row until i noticed the foam reduce to minimal levels.
I then halved my usual detergent to 20 gm. I don't use the scoop as its not graduated and instead use 10gm spoon that i can measure more accurately.
Powdered soap that does not totally dissolve can get into the nooks and crannies of the internal metal parts of the machine, which over time cause the parts to fail prematurely. For this reason, use liquid and use the right amount for your water.
I still say stick to powder. If you keep up with maintenance then these problems won't happen. More attention required with hard water as you're using 50% more detergent to get the job done already.
Liquid has its own issues. Easier to overdose, 50% more expensive and residualises into fat as opposed to powder that does not do that. That fat along with fabric conditioner/softener will exacerbate problems like smell. Liquid detergent contains no bleach (meaning oxygen bleach) and combined with low temperature washes is the leading cause for smells.
Liquid is for delicate garments and micro fiber towels
This article will cover how much laundry soap you should use in your front load washer. There are several reasons for not using too much soap, some of which will be covered in this article. A few of these reasons are: shortening the life...
www.wikihow.com
If you're getting foam which i did with an empty load that means detergent deposits on the inside and likely on the spider.
Detergents on the inside raises the pH. Higher pH ie more alkaline contributes to corrosion of the aluminium alloy spider.
Therefore it is better not to have these deposits to begin with. If you get foam then you are over dosing.
It took at least 5 tub cleans in a row until i noticed the foam reduce to minimal levels.
I then halved my usual detergent to 20 gm. I don't use the scoop as its not graduated and instead use 10gm spoon that i can measure more accurately.
Detergent now lasts me twice as long per box. My clothes don't stink of perfume (Henko is the worst for this) and are clean AFAICT.
Post automatically merged:
Thing i don't understand is you're using the right detergent and presumably dosing correctly. You leave the lid open.
But you have a grime problem with cold washes and adder does not
I guess it's probably the super high humidity. There are times that machine isn't used for almost a month when there is noone at home.. and just to clarify the lid is open overnight (as almost all our laundry is done at night. This means the lid is open for about 9-11 hours
Sorry I meant the big 15A Socket....Its there below our utility as the area has been specifically designed for front loaders.
We are on 6th floor and our neighbours have front loaders as well so pressure wont be an issue...worst case I can invest around 1200 bucks if needed on equipment to boost water pressure (kind of sure - wont be needed)
BTW: residues do come up in top loaders as well right - so assume they need this maintenance wash as well?
