Wifie DEMANDS - 9kg+ Top Loading Washing Machine EDIT: Bought LG 7.5 kg T8018AEEP5

@ All: Thank you for your views. They are truely enlightening.

@terence_fdes: I have used my machine in cold, warm (35C) & hot (45C) modes. My observations are:

1. Cleaning is better (especially at dirt prone areas like shirt collars/ cuffs etc.) when warm/ hot water is used. Even the clothes smell fresh when washed in hot water. I have never used the super hot (55C) mode as I feel temperatures beyond 50C can be damaging to clothes.
2. Use of hot water prevents scud build up in the drum. The LG washing machine manual suggests use of hot water every 5th wash for this reason.
3. It also depends at what time of the day the washing is carried out. If washing is carried out in afternoons, the water is by default at around 35-40C in most parts of India. Then the cold mode may be set to save energy.
4. In front loaders, heaters come built in by default. As far as top loaders are concerned, it is better to reduce complexity by going in for a machine with a hot water inlet, not with in-built heater. However, with in-built heater, as in my 360 machine, what I observed that the machine switches back and forth between heating mode and soak mode, i.e. if set temperature is 45C, the water is slightly heated, agipellar is run, then again water is further heated, agipellar is run and so on.
5. Machines with in-built heaters dramatically increase cycle times. For example, in my machine, with a small load (around 3kg), the cycle time for mode without heater ("mixed" program) is around 41-47 minutes. When set at 35C, the time increases to 64-75 mins. In contrast, if a geyser is connected, the water can be conveniently heated and then the machine run, leading to lower cycle times.
6. If the machine is fed with hot water from a geyser, the remaining hot water can be used for other purposes as well, not so if the machine has a in-built heater.

This concludes that it is better to take a top loader with a hot water inlet, not in-built heater. In front loaders, there is no such option.

You have said that you run the machine in two steps. Is there any such program or you manually do it (switching on off etc.)? Also, you have said that the total spin is for 1 minute. Is the time manually adjusted? Does the machine attain the full rpm in one go or in multiple attempts?
In my 360 machine, the spin is for 11 minutes approximately in "mixed/ cotton" mode, in which the machine attains the full rpm only when around 5-6 minutes are remaining. During the remaining time, it attains the rpm by repeatedly connecting/ disconnecting the drive and balancing in the process.

It would be helpful if anyone with a non-direct drive top/ front loader can confirm whether their machine vibrates (even slightly) during spin mode.

Again wonderful observations and pointers for all of us in understanding how to get the best performance out of our WM's.

Regarding our LG WM - We run it in two steps (manually, however both these steps can be programmed too).
Step 1: The "Soak + Wash" mode - this is available for 40/50/60 mins only. Once the machine fills up water - it starts it's work of rotating, churning up & down, round & round and left-right-left-right alternating with static (no run times) too. From start to end no water is drained out.
Step 2: Wash + Rinse + Spin
Wash - available in minutes
Rinse - available as "no. of times" only - we use 2 times (max 7)
Spin - available in "minutes" only - we use 1 minute (max 7)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
@terence_fdes:
Thank you for the clarification. Just a few more doubts (pardon me for repeatedly asking):
1. In step2, is the spin time of 1 minute the default setting in some program or do you change the default spin time to 1 minute every wash cycle?
2. Does the machine pick up the full rpm in 1 go or is the motor engaged and disengaged repeatedly to pick up the final spin speed?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
LG - Wash Machine Direct Drive 7.5kg Deal Clinched

LG 7.5kg - Top Loader T8018AEEP5 for Rs 31000/-

Will give a more detailed feedback after I see the performance for a week or so.

until then ...... cheers

View attachment 13170
Was looking at this machine you got over a decade back and it has all the features I would recommend in a machine even today with the only thing missing being an internal heater which LG refuses to implement even today because it desires top star energy ratings. If your tap temperature hovers between 30-40 degrees most of the year then great. That is not the case for me where it's closer to 20 degrees barring the odd four months of the year I get in Bangalore with clear blue skies.

You're the only one on the board with an LG top load with 6 motion which means it still has the best wash action even today. Meaning everyone else still only does 3 motions. The impeller moves clockwise, anti and then the drum moves. Including LG's cheaper non-DD top load models which seem all the rage with people here because of their lower budgets. Might have seemed exorbitant at the time you got it but I bet you didn't regret this purchase.

Tech does not advance very quickly in the washing machine space though I'm still learning new stuff about why things are the way they are. Like things about DD that I did not realise at the time. Yes, it's silent but importantly, DD generates more torque and can stop on a dime which others with belt-driven tech cannot match because the belt would slip.

That is how LG gets the three extra motions. To appreciate 6 motion watch this, and see how those microfiber towels bloom from the centre and work their way to the walls of the tub. That is proof of the clothes moving. Better wash action. You will get this provided you ball up the clothes and load them individually instead of laying them flat on top of each other. With flat low profile impellers, loading matters, how you do it and how much you put in. With the older vertical-style agitators this was not as important.

T8018AEEP5 volume.jpg

69L water volume at water level 10 means an internal tub volume of around 55L which is the minimum size I'd recommend for two-thirds max loading. In other words, this is the size to get if you can't go bigger and not any smaller.

Here is what it looks like for those that have not seen it.

It even has a hot fill option. Though I would prefer an internal heater as that is easier on the detergent. However, if your tap temperature is between 30-40 then you're good

Don't let this one go, keep repairing it until no longer possible.


^That's the closest equivalent to yours today. I wonder how much of an improvement it is. They could have designed the console at the back like other companies do these days instead of keeping it at the front. This would prevent wet clothes from brushing past when unloading and prolong the life of the control panel.

The price isn't that different to what you paid. These days they use the term AI instead of fuzzy.

It's size is 540 (W) x 560 (D) x 945 (H)

Yours is 540 (W) x 540 (D) x 935 (H)

So the new one is 2 cm deeper and 1 cm taller.


We still don't get Turbowash 3D for top loaders in India though.

Incidentally, how is your machine doing today, a decade later? What is the nature of the repairs it has required within this time
 
Last edited:
*BUMP*

In case you missed my previous post @terence_fdes

Everyone wants to know what to buy. But how does what is bought fare over time?
Apologies dear @blr_p
I did not realize that almost 10 years have passed o_O for this fabulous LG WM that we purchased way back in 2012.
IMG_20230222_094536.jpg
IMG_20230222_094630.jpg
IMG_20230222_103817.jpg

FEEDBACK AFTER ALMOST 10 YRS OF USAGE
About any Repairs:

We had just one (unfortunate :confused: ) repair - had to replace the PCB panel, it was short-circuited - this happened within the first few months & cost us Rs 2500 then. The cause was a faulty main power-supply wall point-socket that had fused off - damm :arghh::banghead:
Since then NO other repairs at all :D

Performance Review:
Still VERY VERY SILENT and Flawless. LG were pioneers in introducing the DD - Direct Drive Motor technology then and gave a 10 year warranty on it (and we still have a few more months of that amazing promise :happy:).
It handles all sorts of clothes and loads (we avoid putting any delicate fabrics along with other clothes).
Never used the Air-Dryer option - so I cannot comment on that feature. Also never used the warm water option (as we had not prepared a separate water pipeline for the input).

Maintenance & Additional Support Device:
1. For Cleaning/Total Flushing of the Drum and other inaccessible areas - [for removal of dirt/grime; scale bacteria & microorganisms]. We use this WM cleaner powder 2-4 times a year - see image (with warm water manually fed into the WM ...lol ). Empty contents of the entire packet and then run the WM 3-4 times until the drum is totally clean (after the first round you will notice loads of crazy dark shit-like residues inside the WM :arghh:).
2. Once a year or in two years - detach the outlet pipe and flush out the black soot accumulated within.
3. For greater stability (especially when heavy loads - like blankets etc are used) - the machine may vibrate / shake - to minimize this - we placed our WM on an adjustable trolley/stand from Amazon - we further purchased one more - for our double door refrigerator - which must be at least 125-150kgs or more loaded) and another cheaper version of the same brand for our 4-Burner Cooking Range.

Thank you @blr_p especially and others on TE for all the inputs provided over the years for folks who wish to buy a WM (this thread still shows up on Google today and dunno how many thousands may have benefited from its discussions).
Apologies dear @blr_p
I did not realize that almost 10 years have passed o_O for this fabulous LG WM that we purchased way back in 2012.
IMG_20230222_094536.jpg
IMG_20230222_094630.jpg
IMG_20230222_103817.jpg

FEEDBACK AFTER ALMOST 10 YRS OF USAGE
About any Repairs:

We had just one (unfortunate :confused: ) repair - had to replace the PCB panel, it was short-circuited - this happened within the first few months & cost us Rs 2500 then. The cause was a faulty main power-supply wall point-socket that had fused off - damm :arghh::banghead:
Since then NO other repairs at all :D

Performance Review:
Still VERY VERY SILENT and Flawless. LG were pioneers in introducing the DD - Direct Drive Motor technology then and gave a 10 year warranty on it (and we still have a few more months of that amazing promise :happy:).
It handles all sorts of clothes and loads (we avoid putting any delicate fabrics along with other clothes).
Never used the Air-Dryer option - so I cannot comment on that feature. Also never used the warm water option (as we had not prepared a separate water pipeline for the input).

Maintenance & Additional Support Device:
1. For Cleaning/Total Flushing of the Drum and other inaccessible areas - [for removal of dirt/grime; scale bacteria & microorganisms]. We use this WM cleaner powder 2-4 times a year - see image (with warm water manually fed into the WM ...lol ). Empty contents of the entire packet and then run the WM 3-4 times until the drum is totally clean (after the first round you will notice loads of crazy dark shit-like residues inside the WM :arghh:).
2. Once a year or in two years - detach the outlet pipe and flush out the black soot accumulated within.
3. For greater stability (especially when heavy loads - like blankets etc are used) - the machine may vibrate / shake - to minimize this - we placed our WM on an adjustable trolley/stand from Amazon - we further purchased one more - for our double door refrigerator - which must be at least 125-150kgs or more loaded) and another cheaper version of the same brand for our 4-Burner Cooking Range.

Thank you @blr_p especially and others on TE for all the inputs provided over the years for folks who wish to buy a WM (this thread still shows up on Google today and dunno how many thousands may have benefited from its discussions).
Was looking at this machine you got over a decade back and it has all the features I would recommend in a machine even today with the only thing missing being an internal heater which LG refuses to implement even today because it desires top star energy ratings. If your tap temperature hovers between 30-40 degrees most of the year then great. That is not the case for me where it's closer to 20 degrees barring the odd four months of the year I get in Bangalore with clear blue skies.

You're the only one on the board with an LG top load with 6 motion which means it still has the best wash action even today. Meaning everyone else still only does 3 motions. The impeller moves clockwise, anti and then the drum moves. Including LG's cheaper non-DD top load models which seem all the rage with people here because of their lower budgets. Might have seemed exorbitant at the time you got it but I bet you didn't regret this purchase.

Tech does not advance very quickly in the washing machine space though I'm still learning new stuff about why things are the way they are. Like things about DD that I did not realise at the time. Yes, it's silent but importantly, DD generates more torque and can stop on a dime which others with belt-driven tech cannot match because the belt would slip.

That is how LG gets the three extra motions. To appreciate 6 motion watch this, and see how those microfiber towels bloom from the centre and work their way to the walls of the tub. That is proof of the clothes moving. Better wash action. You will get this provided you ball up the clothes and load them individually instead of laying them flat on top of each other. With flat low profile impellers, loading matters, how you do it and how much you put in. With the older vertical-style agitators this was not as important.

View attachment 158667

69L water volume at water level 10 means an internal tub volume of around 55L which is the minimum size I'd recommend for two-thirds max loading. In other words, this is the size to get if you can't go bigger and not any smaller.

Here is what it looks like for those that have not seen it.

It even has a hot fill option. Though I would prefer an internal heater as that is easier on the detergent. However, if your tap temperature is between 30-40 then you're good

Don't let this one go, keep repairing it until no longer possible.


^That's the closest equivalent to yours today. I wonder how much of an improvement it is. They could have designed the console at the back like other companies do these days instead of keeping it at the front. This would prevent wet clothes from brushing past when unloading and prolong the life of the control panel.

The price isn't that different to what you paid. These days they use the term AI instead of fuzzy.

It's size is 540 (W) x 560 (D) x 945 (H)

Yours is 540 (W) x 540 (D) x 935 (H)

So the new one is 2 cm deeper and 1 cm taller.


We still don't get Turbowash 3D for top loaders in India though.

Incidentally, how is your machine doing today, a decade later? What is the nature of the repairs it has required within this time
 
Last edited:
10+ years of membrane switch @lockhrt999 with no problem. Top end model but the membrane tech is the same. He's in Bombay too so humid, humid...

How do you explain the faulty wall socket? sparking at the contacts. How would the socket get fused on its own otherwise? Age?

There is no internal heater with this model so it's just a 6A socket !!

This is important. I've heard of people losing the motherboard quickly and assumed it was due to an erratic power supply or elevated voltage. People usually recommend a stabiliser in that case but what if the real fix and cheaper too is just a new wall socket?

It's never struck me that the wall socket could be the culprit. A bad or failing wall socket is all it takes to blow up your appliance's motherboard ?!!? :oops: :banghead:

Meaning that socket needs to be examined at the outset. What to look for to determine its health? no dark spots INSIDE. Good contact.

Listen to the sound the plug makes when it goes in and comes out.

When I got my machine, I installed a new 16A socket with a fuse as recommended in the manual. Heh, now I know why user manuals of various companies in general recommend an MCB with a fuse for short circuit protection no further than 1 metre from the machine.

The electrician said I didn't need it but I just went do it, do it, DO IT
 

Attachments

  • 16A wall socket for washing machine.jpg
    16A wall socket for washing machine.jpg
    186.1 KB · Views: 64
  • Sound.jpg
    Sound.jpg
    64.8 KB · Views: 53
Last edited:
Maintenance & Additional Support Device:
1. For Cleaning/Total Flushing of the Drum and other inaccessible areas - [for removal of dirt/grime; scale bacteria & microorganisms]. We use this WM cleaner powder 2-4 times a year - see image (with warm water manually fed into the WM ...lol ). Empty contents of the entire packet and then run the WM 3-4 times until the drum is totally clean (after the first round you will notice loads of crazy dark shit-like residues inside the WM :arghh:).
Atomic seems to be the way to go with top loaders but I would like you to try out an alternative which is half the cost and I think as effective if not more but you have to follow the procedure which is time consuming.

Vanish powder. Liquid won't do. Has to be powder as It contains percarbonate which will help to remove any liquid detergent or fabric softener residues that accumulate in the machine. Keep the ziplock bag it comes in tightly sealed as any moisture getting in will expire the percarbonate it contains prematurely and turn it into washing soda which is less effective at cleaning.

Fill the machine to the top with hot instead of warm water. Straight out of the geezer. Dissolve about 200gm Vanish powder for the first time. Run the machine for fifteen minutes. Then let it sit for an hour. Run it again for 15 minutes and let it sit for another hour. You reuse the solution this way. Fish out any gunk that shows up with a sieve or net. The trick here is to repeat this until you see no gunk show up. Once that happens and it might take a few sessions then the machine has got a proper deep clean. Whether you can get away with more than two sessions per 200gm is for you to judge.


That is specifically for top loaders and the top post in that thread will give you a general overview.

After this first time then every two or three months you can use 100gm of Vanish.

You could follow it up with another product to go after the mould or any lingering smells. Instead of chlorine bleach use Suma tabs. You need about twelve with a full tub. Let it agitate for fifteen minutes then let sit for an hour. Then drain and rinse a couple more times. This should remove any mould inside. Warm water is enough when using Suma.

This way your machine should be clean like brand new.


2. Once a year or in two years - detach the outlet pipe and flush out the black soot accumulated within.
The black stuff is mould. By the sounds of it you have lots of it. Keep the lid open after a wash so the machine can dry out. That will reduce any mould growing inside the machine.
 
Ya, wanted to know how it was holding up. Everyone asks which one to get. But how long does it last? What is it like to have?

I think there's value in knowing that

This is one of those silent majority type reviews. Hidden under the surface until you go digging for it.

The ones we see most often are those with complaints. The minority. But a few of them can make it seem like a majority. Half the time these people do not even know how to use the product but will still give you doubts. That and we get the odd drive-by slamming something. Any details queried are left unanswered.
 
Last edited:
I'm in the market to buy a washing machine rn, i am under the impression that the front loading machines are better? Why did you want a top loading one ?
 
I'm in the market to buy a washing machine rn, i am under the impression that the front loading machines are better? Why did you want a top loading one ?
SIMPLE - Why I chose a TOP Loading vs Front Loading

A TOP LOADING WM gives you the FLEXIBILITY to - Pause or Stop at any time, PLUS Add More Clothes at any time..... Plus - where piped water may be a problem on some days (you can fill the drum with buckets from your stored tanks at home :D - manually)

Front Loading WM's do not give you the above FLEXIBILITY at all ;) apart from being more expensive.
I have used ONLY Top Loading WM's for almost 30 years.

Today - base your decision also on these two factors
Chose a WM with - Direct Drive Motor and Having Inverter Technology


@blr_p - please add any other
 
SIMPLE - Why I chose a TOP Loading vs Front Loading

A TOP LOADING WM gives you the FLEXIBILITY to - Pause or Stop at any time, PLUS Add More Clothes at any time..... Plus - where piped water may be a problem on some days (you can fill the drum with buckets from your stored tanks at home :D - manually)

Front Loading WM's do not give you the above FLEXIBILITY at all ;) apart from being more expensive.
I have used ONLY Top Loading WM's for almost 30 years.

Today - base your decision also on these two factors
Chose a WM with - Direct Drive Motor and Having Inverter Technology


@blr_p - please add any other

many thanks
 
SIMPLE - Why I chose a TOP Loading vs Front Loading

A TOP LOADING WM gives you the FLEXIBILITY to - Pause or Stop at any time, PLUS Add More Clothes at any time..... Plus - where piped water may be a problem on some days (you can fill the drum with buckets from your stored tanks at home :D - manually)

Front Loading WM's do not give you the above FLEXIBILITY at all ;) apart from being more expensive.
I have used ONLY Top Loading WM's for almost 30 years.

Today - base your decision also on these two factors
Chose a WM with - Direct Drive Motor and Having Inverter Technology


@blr_p - please add any other
I thought your primary reason was space constraints
 
10+ years of membrane switch @lockhrt999 with no problem. Top end model but the membrane tech is the same. He's in Bombay too so humid, humid...
He's probably not living at the ground floor. At the ground floor it can get sauna like humid. It's rare thing but it can happen. Everything gets wet. Even things that are supposed to be dry like bed and table, get moisty. I have had my computer, TV, oven, washing machine malfunction due to the moisture.

How do you explain the faulty wall socket? sparking at the contacts. How would the socket get fused on its own otherwise? Age?
Simple. Loose contact > Sparks > Carbon > Even looser contact > More sparky sparky > Prong metal melts and fuses with the socket contacts. It's quite common with power tools and I have seen it.

Half of electrical stuff in our house use european plugs which sit loosely in our indian sockets. That causes sparking and carbon accumulation. Then we put a big appliance in that very socket. Carbon doesn't let prongs to properly sit in the socket. And thanks to electrical induction, we get even more sparks. I also blame inferior Indian plug/socket standard. It's the oldest in the world and need to be discarded. It's just very bad.

This is important. I've heard of people losing the motherboard quickly and assumed it was due to an erratic power supply or elevated voltage. People usually recommend a stabiliser in that case but what if the real fix and cheaper too is just a new wall socket?

It's never struck me that the wall socket could be the culprit. A bad or failing wall socket is all it takes to blow up your appliance's motherboard ?!!? :oops: :banghead:
Yes totally! Bad socket can cause all sorts of problems inside the appliance.
 
Simple. Loose contact > Sparks > Carbon > Even looser contact > More sparky sparky > Prong metal melts and fuses with the socket contacts. It's quite common with power tools and I have seen it.

Half of electrical stuff in our house use european plugs which sit loosely in our indian sockets. That causes sparking and carbon accumulation. Then we put a big appliance in that very socket. Carbon doesn't let prongs to properly sit in the socket. And thanks to electrical induction, we get even more sparks. I also blame inferior Indian plug/socket standard. It's the oldest in the world and need to be discarded. It's just very bad.
He is lucky this happened soon after getting the machine. If it happened say many years later then getting a replacement main board might not be possible and force a replacement. So something that could be resolved earlier becomes a catastrophic failure that cannot be fixed at a later date.

Installing a wall socket with an MCB or fuse for short circuit prevention should be mandatory then for any washing machine.

IFB electrical connection.jpg

It will protect the machine from a misbehaving wall socket and the user from a misbehaving machine.
 
Last edited:
Installing a wall socket with an MCB or fuse for short circuit prevention should be mandatory then for any washing machine.

It will protect the machine from a misbehaving wall socket and the user from a misbehaving machine.
The above MUST be observed as a CARDINAL RULE .....
for a Washing Machine and or .......
For an (Expensive) > Microwave/Convection Oven / Built-In Ovens / Large Capacity Refrigerators / Water Heaters / 4 Gas or Electric Cooking Range ....... EVEN IF you may have routed your individual room Power Connections through a Main Junction Box?Tripper.
 
Installing a wall socket with an MCB or fuse for short circuit prevention should be mandatory then for any washing machine.

It will protect the machine from a misbehaving wall socket and the user from a misbehaving machine.
MCB/fuse does prevent short circuits but what happened with his socket can't be prevented with MCB as that's not a short circuit.

Big appliances cause inductance. They want to keep going even if there's not enough power supply or it's intermittent. In not-so-technical term, big appliances pull the current so hard that it starts flowing through air if there isn't sufficient metal contact.
Screenshot_1.jpg


It's not a short circuit. Appliances on the other side are so damn power hungry that they don't care if the current is coming through the wire or is jumping through the air. They just want to keep going. MCB can't do anything about it because it doesn't see anything is wrong. Such sparking might be detectable with oscilloscope though.
 
MCB/fuse does prevent short circuits but what happened with his socket can't be prevented with MCB as that's not a short circuit.

Big appliances cause inductance. They want to keep going even if there's not enough power supply or it's intermittent. In not-so-technical term, big appliances pull the current so hard that it starts flowing through air if there isn't sufficient metal contact.
View attachment 161860

It's not a short circuit. Appliances on the other side are so damn power hungry that they don't care if the current is coming through the wire or is jumping through the air. They just want to keep going. MCB can't do anything about it because it doesn't see anything is wrong. Such sparking might be detectable with oscilloscope though.
Hi Bro
At the end of the day ..... JUST TAKE THE BASIC Precautions.....
Even GOD may not have an Oscilloscope at hand :D
 
Back
Top