N
NotMyRealName
No, it's not normal and if you ever detect it, it's better to stop the spin and manual resettle the clothes in the drum by hand.
Wifie DEMANDS - 9kg+ Top Loading Washing Machine EDIT: Bought LG 7.5 kg T8018AEEP5
- Thread starter terence_fdes
- Start date
The violent shaking of the machine is not a normal occurence in my opinion. Incase of an imbalance, the machine should fill water, run the agipellar a few times to evenly distribute the clothes, drain the water and then enter into spin mode again. The manual re-distribution of clothes by hand is always an option but fully automatics should work un-monitored, right? I suggest you try the heavy mode again with almost peak load.
Will do so ........ I paused & switched off at 17 mins (pending time). Now the spin is usually 2 mins only or so maybe another rinse cycle was due (not sure)
Pray ... what's this "agipellar" thingy & how do I run it a few times ? Will try the heavy mode again
N
NotMyRealName
Agitator/Impeller
N
NotMyRealName
I think they call that the pulsator. Like the ones in semi-autos. Ones with the vertical 'tower' are called agitator. Medium height ones that combine the action of a pulsator and an agitator are called agipellar i think.
vivacious_tg
Discoverer
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No "built-in" heater but the usual provision - separate for hot water inlet. I have not connected this as I do not have the provision for the same [supplying water through an external connected Heater]
I think the whirlpool 360 is the only machine (top-loading) that has this option
Whirlpool is the only company that provides top-loading washing machines with in-built heater. Other manufacturers (barring Panasonic) provide two separate water inlets- one for hot and other for cold water. Alongwith the 360, a few other models from Whirlpool do have an in-built heater. Compared to a front loader, the top loader's heater heats the water to a lower maximum temperature. The 360 model can heat water in steps of 10 degree celsius from 35-55 degree celsius only. Most front-loaders can heat water to a maximum of 90 degree celsius. However, whether such hot temperatures are required remains a question!
@terence_fdes: You had reported the problem of vibration during spin mode sometime back. Even my Whirlpool 360H machine (top loading automatic) vibrates during spin mode, sometimes quite violently, but not to the extent that the machine displaces itself. I got the machine (still under warranty) inspected & the service center person confirmed it to be normal. Under this context I would like to ask you:
1. Does your machine vibrate during spin mode in every wash cycle (maybe with varying intensity) or only in certain cases?
2. Have you found out any means to reduce/ dampen the vibration?
It would be helpful if any other automatic washing machine (both front and to load) users can confirm whether their machine runs absolutely smoothly during spin mode or vibrates.
1. Does your machine vibrate during spin mode in every wash cycle (maybe with varying intensity) or only in certain cases?
2. Have you found out any means to reduce/ dampen the vibration?
It would be helpful if any other automatic washing machine (both front and to load) users can confirm whether their machine runs absolutely smoothly during spin mode or vibrates.
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@Chiranjib Hi - I had faced that problem only once (violent vibration). Now it's my wifie who runs the machine each time. It runs smoothly during spin cycle too
This is how we normally use our machine
First - Run: Soak & Scrubbing/Soak-Wash - Total Run time 40-60 mins (no water is drained out)
after the above, we usually start the second run immediately or else keep the machine (with the clothes & water+soap) for an hour or so.
Second Run : Wash > Rinse (2 times) and Spin (1 cycle only for 1 minute) ....... TOTAL run time 42 to 60 mins
I have not tried the "heavy-mode fully loaded".
I have also not called up LG for any service check ..... [incidently LG does not even offer any such thing during the first year]. I need to go through the manual to see what are the normal "maintenance things" I can do .... It's like 8 months or so since we started using this machine.
This is how we normally use our machine
First - Run: Soak & Scrubbing/Soak-Wash - Total Run time 40-60 mins (no water is drained out)
after the above, we usually start the second run immediately or else keep the machine (with the clothes & water+soap) for an hour or so.
Second Run : Wash > Rinse (2 times) and Spin (1 cycle only for 1 minute) ....... TOTAL run time 42 to 60 mins
I have not tried the "heavy-mode fully loaded".
I have also not called up LG for any service check ..... [incidently LG does not even offer any such thing during the first year]. I need to go through the manual to see what are the normal "maintenance things" I can do .... It's like 8 months or so since we started using this machine.
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now that this old thread is revived, wanted to ask if you had put anything underneath the washing machine to increase its height? anything that would've raised the drum's center of gravity... trolley, stand etc.?
Negative Ms Namrata. We have kept it on it's original footing - and adjusted it's center-of-gravity with a spirit level
. Incidently my wife was keen on using a trolley, which would make the job of cleaning the area behind the machine easier. But we ruled out this idea after we saw most of the trolleys to be very low-grade quality & we feared more problems cropping up in future (vibrations, alignment issues etc). The "direct-drive" motor that this LG machine has is really silent and remarkable.Cheers
Terry
blr_p
Northstar
This was an informative & entertaining thread to read. Had many thoughts going through.
I've used laundrettes for many years when i lived abroad and all the ones i used were top loaders and automatic. These are all vertically spinning steel drums with no agipeller business. You would think front loaders do a better job but i've never had a problem getting any of my clothes clean. They're also much easier (ergonomic?) to use as you don't have to bend your back. Whereas front loaders slot into tight spaces in kitchens easier where a top loader isn't practical. Its form factor tailored to requirement, not performance related in any way.
After the wash i'd stick the load in dryers and they'd come out dry. Never had any problems with wear and tear. Then again clothes bought abroad (made in the subcontinent or central america) are machine wash friendly to begin with.
Hot water is used for whites only, everything else uses normal water otherwise the colours will run and there really isn't any need for hot water especially if you do a soak beforehand. Soak is more useful to make less work during hand washing, not really necessary if a machine is doing it.
Delicate stuff uses cold water which is actually cold rather than the tepid i get here. How hot or cold the water needs to be really depends on the detergent. I've used concentrated ones and very little is necessary, less than a cap for a full load.
The only advantage i can see from direct drive is less noise. As far as better wash etc that's down to a lot more variables than just the motor. Those inverter types are supposed to save on electricity but cost a premium to begin with and if its anything like acs, you will never really make up in cost savings. You may have a more reliable, longer lasting product which one expects given the premium.
I'm in the market for a machine myself and i like the idea of a more programmable machine. Then again the ones I've used in laundrettes were very simple to operate and the did job to my satisfaction. They did not have many kinds of wash, just one type and you decided whether it was to be gentle, normal or heavily soiled. But these are pretty big to begin with at least 2.5 feet square where the lid opens on the top. Agipeller is when you don't have much depth and the tub is rectangular. it does not do such a good job maybe this is why all those fancy programs are required.
Features and fancy jargon are just selling points, whether you really need them or whether they are worth the premium is debatable. What i would prefer above anything else is reliability especially if i were the owner.
I've used laundrettes for many years when i lived abroad and all the ones i used were top loaders and automatic. These are all vertically spinning steel drums with no agipeller business. You would think front loaders do a better job but i've never had a problem getting any of my clothes clean. They're also much easier (ergonomic?) to use as you don't have to bend your back. Whereas front loaders slot into tight spaces in kitchens easier where a top loader isn't practical. Its form factor tailored to requirement, not performance related in any way.
After the wash i'd stick the load in dryers and they'd come out dry. Never had any problems with wear and tear. Then again clothes bought abroad (made in the subcontinent or central america) are machine wash friendly to begin with.
Hot water is used for whites only, everything else uses normal water otherwise the colours will run and there really isn't any need for hot water especially if you do a soak beforehand. Soak is more useful to make less work during hand washing, not really necessary if a machine is doing it.
Delicate stuff uses cold water which is actually cold rather than the tepid i get here. How hot or cold the water needs to be really depends on the detergent. I've used concentrated ones and very little is necessary, less than a cap for a full load.
The only advantage i can see from direct drive is less noise. As far as better wash etc that's down to a lot more variables than just the motor. Those inverter types are supposed to save on electricity but cost a premium to begin with and if its anything like acs, you will never really make up in cost savings. You may have a more reliable, longer lasting product which one expects given the premium.
I'm in the market for a machine myself and i like the idea of a more programmable machine. Then again the ones I've used in laundrettes were very simple to operate and the did job to my satisfaction. They did not have many kinds of wash, just one type and you decided whether it was to be gentle, normal or heavily soiled. But these are pretty big to begin with at least 2.5 feet square where the lid opens on the top. Agipeller is when you don't have much depth and the tub is rectangular. it does not do such a good job maybe this is why all those fancy programs are required.
Features and fancy jargon are just selling points, whether you really need them or whether they are worth the premium is debatable. What i would prefer above anything else is reliability especially if i were the owner.
harishgayatri
Discoverer
I have a front Loading SIEMENS washing machine.
1. Heater is built in.
2. There are various temp/ settings to choose from. 90 degrees is only for white clothes. If you put colored ones then it will lose color.
3. The advantages are the clothes don't tangle, you can use heater & put dry clothes without soaking in water.
Only disadvantage is it takes 2 hours if temps are chosen above 40 degrees.
I still am learning so many things from the ongoing discussion on this thread. Thanks @blr_p, your observations makes sense to sieve through the crazy amount of "marketing-gimmicks" that are used today by all and sundry.
Most of us just would love to have a WM that is "reliable, consistent, trouble-free maintenance & which would last for years". I really do not know how much of a difference does "hot-water" make, especially to us in India with our climate and our ambient tap-water temperatures. If I were staying in Finland, Canada, Russia or Norway - then yes, I would need that hot water option. Otherwise it's a further burden on our electric bills. Perhaps @Chiranjib could add his views on the "hot-water" thingy.
And the debate will always continue - Top vs Front Loading vs the available space where the WM would be placed & what's best should be an objective choice and not a subjective decision (In my case, I simply did not have the space for a FLM - front loading machine; apart from the other main problem - that once we start the FLM - we cannot open the door to add any more clothes or more detergent).
Most of us just would love to have a WM that is "reliable, consistent, trouble-free maintenance & which would last for years". I really do not know how much of a difference does "hot-water" make, especially to us in India with our climate and our ambient tap-water temperatures. If I were staying in Finland, Canada, Russia or Norway - then yes, I would need that hot water option. Otherwise it's a further burden on our electric bills. Perhaps @Chiranjib could add his views on the "hot-water" thingy.
And the debate will always continue - Top vs Front Loading vs the available space where the WM would be placed & what's best should be an objective choice and not a subjective decision (In my case, I simply did not have the space for a FLM - front loading machine; apart from the other main problem - that once we start the FLM - we cannot open the door to add any more clothes or more detergent).
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blr_p
Northstar
This depends on how nice you are to the wm. Is the power stable, is it being used to spec or overloaded. Is it being cared for. They are not as durable as machines made twenty years ago but then do no cost as much either. When people complain about machines breaking down its very hard to assess whether solely the machine was at fault or a combination of the above.
Another point i'm curious about is how they come up with these weight ratings for the units. it would seem from your earlier comments that there is no standardisation here at all and each vendor does it in an arbitrary way.
I've had no use for hot water at all even when i lived in colder countries. Room temperature water is good enough and that is what comes out of the tap here in india. But this means matching the soap to it. These concentrated liquids are expensive here compared to abroad. You will have to experiment with different types if the present one does not do it.
if anything destroys clothes its hot water, harsh soap and excessive spin cycles. When we use the spin dryer its only for a few minutes to get the water out. Makes for a lighter load to the clothes line. I live in a humid environment so it takes longer to dry clothes. The spin is just to get the excess water out. Its not meant to dry the clothes but rather speed up the drying process on the line. Since you live on the coast the situation would be similar, those living in a drier climate have it best.
A spinning drum is best, whether its oriented vertically or horizontally does not matter. OK horizontal spin adds for agitation than a vertical one but the difference is marginal, not that you would notice it unless clothes are always exceptionally soiled.
If space is constricted you have to compromise with the agipeller thing. If the programming is flexible you should be able to achieve good enough results with it.
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@ All: Thank you for your views. They are truely enlightening.
@terence_fdes: I have used my machine in cold, warm (35C) & hot (45C) modes. My observations are:
1. Cleaning is better (especially at dirt prone areas like shirt collars/ cuffs etc.) when warm/ hot water is used. Even the clothes smell fresh when washed in hot water. I have never used the super hot (55C) mode as I feel temperatures beyond 50C can be damaging to clothes.
2. Use of hot water prevents scud build up in the drum. The LG washing machine manual suggests use of hot water every 5th wash for this reason.
3. It also depends at what time of the day the washing is carried out. If washing is carried out in afternoons, the water is by default at around 35-40C in most parts of India. Then the cold mode may be set to save energy.
4. In front loaders, heaters come built in by default. As far as top loaders are concerned, it is better to reduce complexity by going in for a machine with a hot water inlet, not with in-built heater. However, with in-built heater, as in my 360 machine, what I observed that the machine switches back and forth between heating mode and soak mode, i.e. if set temperature is 45C, the water is slightly heated, agipellar is run, then again water is further heated, agipellar is run and so on.
5. Machines with in-built heaters dramatically increase cycle times. For example, in my machine, with a small load (around 3kg), the cycle time for mode without heater ("mixed" program) is around 41-47 minutes. When set at 35C, the time increases to 64-75 mins. In contrast, if a geyser is connected, the water can be conveniently heated and then the machine run, leading to lower cycle times.
6. If the machine is fed with hot water from a geyser, the remaining hot water can be used for other purposes as well, not so if the machine has a in-built heater.
This concludes that it is better to take a top loader with a hot water inlet, not in-built heater. In front loaders, there is no such option.
You have said that you run the machine in two steps. Is there any such program or you manually do it (switching on off etc.)? Also, you have said that the total spin is for 1 minute. Is the time manually adjusted? Does the machine attain the full rpm in one go or in multiple attempts?
In my 360 machine, the spin is for 11 minutes approximately in "mixed/ cotton" mode, in which the machine attains the full rpm only when around 5-6 minutes are remaining. During the remaining time, it attains the rpm by repeatedly connecting/ disconnecting the drive and balancing in the process.
It would be helpful if anyone with a non-direct drive top/ front loader can confirm whether their machine vibrates (even slightly) during spin mode.
@terence_fdes: I have used my machine in cold, warm (35C) & hot (45C) modes. My observations are:
1. Cleaning is better (especially at dirt prone areas like shirt collars/ cuffs etc.) when warm/ hot water is used. Even the clothes smell fresh when washed in hot water. I have never used the super hot (55C) mode as I feel temperatures beyond 50C can be damaging to clothes.
2. Use of hot water prevents scud build up in the drum. The LG washing machine manual suggests use of hot water every 5th wash for this reason.
3. It also depends at what time of the day the washing is carried out. If washing is carried out in afternoons, the water is by default at around 35-40C in most parts of India. Then the cold mode may be set to save energy.
4. In front loaders, heaters come built in by default. As far as top loaders are concerned, it is better to reduce complexity by going in for a machine with a hot water inlet, not with in-built heater. However, with in-built heater, as in my 360 machine, what I observed that the machine switches back and forth between heating mode and soak mode, i.e. if set temperature is 45C, the water is slightly heated, agipellar is run, then again water is further heated, agipellar is run and so on.
5. Machines with in-built heaters dramatically increase cycle times. For example, in my machine, with a small load (around 3kg), the cycle time for mode without heater ("mixed" program) is around 41-47 minutes. When set at 35C, the time increases to 64-75 mins. In contrast, if a geyser is connected, the water can be conveniently heated and then the machine run, leading to lower cycle times.
6. If the machine is fed with hot water from a geyser, the remaining hot water can be used for other purposes as well, not so if the machine has a in-built heater.
This concludes that it is better to take a top loader with a hot water inlet, not in-built heater. In front loaders, there is no such option.
You have said that you run the machine in two steps. Is there any such program or you manually do it (switching on off etc.)? Also, you have said that the total spin is for 1 minute. Is the time manually adjusted? Does the machine attain the full rpm in one go or in multiple attempts?
In my 360 machine, the spin is for 11 minutes approximately in "mixed/ cotton" mode, in which the machine attains the full rpm only when around 5-6 minutes are remaining. During the remaining time, it attains the rpm by repeatedly connecting/ disconnecting the drive and balancing in the process.
It would be helpful if anyone with a non-direct drive top/ front loader can confirm whether their machine vibrates (even slightly) during spin mode.
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NinByChoice
Explorer
Only as much water as needed is heated. This is better than heating more water than needed in external geyser.
There are some front loaders without heater - IFB Diva.
Have a belt drive front loader - vibrates only if placed on uneven surface.
True, if there is no other use of the water, then heating water solely for washing in a big capacity geyser may be a waste of energy.
IFB Diva is no longer available. I guess that no front loader now comes without a heater.