Amp replacement for Edifier C2 2.1 speakers

On a wing and a prayer...and @codelad for moral support :happy:

 
Thank you for tagging me - would have missed this otherwise.

About my own C2, not long after my last update, I decided to go ahead and replace all the through-hole capacitors on the board. My (not totally scientific) reasoning being, if one cap went bad there could be others. Was able to procure Japanese-brand (Nichicon and the like) equivalents for all the caps for around 1100 INR.

Then it all went bad - before I could get a replacement for my corroding soldering iron (and thanks in no small part to my clumsy soldering technique) I rushed through and completely botched up the cap replacement, with several traces on the circuitry damaged, pads coming off, etc. I eventually managed to get it all fixed as much as I could, in what was an unnecessarily painstaking process. And the amp miraculously worked - and sounded better than it ever did.

Alas, it failed again after a few months. Very likely a result of my botched repair. I have since got a more decent soldering iron and a headband magnifier (cannot emphasise enough on how useful I've found this to be), but just haven't the time to get to it yet. So the C2 remains packed up in storage waiting for (possibly) one last revival attempt, perhaps sometime early next year. We'll see.
 
Thanks both. I remember that thread, was unable to find it though. I've looked a bit at "2.1 speaker amplifiers" on Amazon, but all of them look like they are more than what i'm willing to spend on a replacement.
 
Logitech Z623 would be the one to look at but there aren't any in stock.

Thank you for tagging me - would have missed this otherwise.

About my own C2, not long after my last update, I decided to go ahead and replace all the through-hole capacitors on the board. My (not totally scientific) reasoning being, if one cap went bad there could be others. Was able to procure Japanese-brand (Nichicon and the like) equivalents for all the caps for around 1100 INR.

Then it all went bad - before I could get a replacement for my corroding soldering iron (and thanks in no small part to my clumsy soldering technique) I rushed through and completely botched up the cap replacement, with several traces on the circuitry damaged, pads coming off, etc. I eventually managed to get it all fixed as much as I could, in what was an unnecessarily painstaking process. And the amp miraculously worked - and sounded better than it ever did.

Alas, it failed again after a few months. Very likely a result of my botched repair. I have since got a more decent soldering iron and a headband magnifier (cannot emphasise enough on how useful I've found this to be), but just haven't the time to get to it yet. So the C2 remains packed up in storage waiting for (possibly) one last revival attempt, perhaps sometime early next year. We'll see.
Some multimeters allow testing capacitors. If you went through them with that you would find the bad one.
 
Some multimeters allow testing capacitors. If you went through them with that you would find the bad one.
Have multimeters with capacitance function. Still, capacitors can be really difficult to test and testing for capacitance alone is seldom enough. You'll need LCR and/or ESR meters to truly weed out the bad ones.
 
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Have multimeters with capacitance function. Still, capacitors can be really difficult to test and testing for capacitance alone is seldom enough. You'll need good LCR meters to truly weed out the bad ones.
I thought once you got the probes on the terminals of the capacitor it would say whether it worked or not. You're saying even that isn't enough. Wow!
 
Check if any of the MOSFETs are overheating or not , if any one of them is overheating remove that , after that use a multimeter in continuity mode to check if there is any short to ground , obviously you would need some soldering skills with the proper tools to get over it . Pm me if you need any further guidance , can provide you some real help .
 
I thought once you got the probes on the terminals of the capacitor it would say whether it worked or not. You're saying even that isn't enough. Wow!
While possible to identify damaged capacitors (electrolytics) visually - by looking for bulges, ruptures, etc., they can be tricky to troubleshoot. Also, you cannot usually test them in-place, without removing them. And electrolytics deteriorate with time, so it is sometimes a good idea to replace them on very old devices (like several decades old).

Experienced hands can possibly tell in which part of the circuitry capacitors are likely to go bad and also use the multimeter in more flexible ways to troubleshoot.
 
While possible to identify damaged capacitors (electrolytics) visually - by looking for bulges, ruptures, etc., they can be tricky to troubleshoot. Also, you cannot usually test them in-place, without removing them. And electrolytics deteriorate with time, so it is sometimes a good idea to replace them on very old devices (like several decades old).
That's the part i was hoping was possible with the right set of probes. If you have to remove them to test then might as well replace them.
Experienced hands can possibly tell in which part of the circuitry capacitors are likely to go bad and also use the multimeter in more flexible ways to troubleshoot.
There are people who do this work. I've had old PC motherboards repaired in this manner. But these guys tend to be picky with what they fix. If they do PCs then can be unwilling to look at something else like an amp PCB without some coaxing.
 
A multi meter with capacitance measuring functions will only say the capacitance value, since they can only give DC volts. If one doesn't have a LCR/ESR meter which give AC volts, then best is to look up the specs of the old capacitor from the data sheet of the manufacturer and replace it with a similar ESR or the same ESR, volts can be higher or same as the current cap.
For some applications, where the circuits shows lot of ripple current, replacement capacitors with high ESR will fail fast, also the wave form won't be as good as before.
 
So I reached out to the guys from inkocean.in to get their help in finding a replacement for this, if they had one. I specifically asked them for an amp with active RCA out, and this is what they recommended - https://inkocean.in/products/active...x50w-100w-2-1-channel-tpa3116d2-digital-sound

But, from what I can see, these don't seem to have RCA out. The 2 jacks just beside the knobs are RCA, but the other 4 are not RCA from what I can tell. I asked them that these don't seem to be RCA out and they insisted, even highlighted the outputs when sending the picture back lol.

So can anyone tell me if I'm being nuts and that these are in fact RCA? Or are these guys trying to take me for a ride and just get me to buy the amp.


1696261264668.png


To add here - the way that this system is set up is wall outlet>amp>speakers via RCA (fixed on the speaker side). The speakers don't have any power input, and hence need an active signal from the amp.
 
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5130/- after card discount
Never seen it go this low ever... No bass treble control, pure natiral audio..
What kind of output jacks does this one have? Looks similar to the one I posted above.
 
What kind of output jacks does this one have? Looks similar to the one I posted above.
Two pairs of banana output sockets
So I reached out to the guys from inkocean.in to get their help in finding a replacement for this, if they had one. I specifically asked them for an amp with active RCA out, and this is what they recommended - https://inkocean.in/products/active...x50w-100w-2-1-channel-tpa3116d2-digital-sound

But, from what I can see, these don't seem to have RCA out. The 2 jacks just beside the knobs are RCA, but the other 4 are not RCA from what I can tell. I asked them that these don't seem to be RCA out and they insisted, even highlighted the outputs when sending the picture back lol.

So can anyone tell me if I'm being nuts and that these are in fact RCA? Or are these guys trying to take me for a ride and just get me to buy the amp.


View attachment 179239

To add here - the way that this system is set up is wall outlet>amp>speakers via RCA (fixed on the speaker side). The speakers don't have any power input, and hence need an active signal from the amp.
This is a plate amp mate, the ones that you find at the back of most of active speakers..
The 2 rca are RCA. IN, in case you are sending signals from a media player or another amp, or your preamp or DAC etc...

Other inputs are I guess the aux 3.5mm and bluetooth in this.

The 4 banana ports are the only output in it.. Please note you can use banana plugs or you can use bare wires in them.. I have deduced that bare wires work far well, that's how I use them
20231008_174835_HDR_(1).jpg


Other way out if you wish to use it is you can make a custom connector by attaching bare wires to bana sockets and then soldering the other ends to 2 pairs of rca sockets.. Would hardly cost 100 rs at most.

AV Concentric Outlet 4 RCA Female Jack 6 Pin Connector Socket Panel Mount
https://amzn.eu/d/9qg2msN

Or
 
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This is a plate amp mate, the ones that you find at the back of most of active speakers
Yeah I know it's sort of barebones but I was looking to get something for less than 2k. Not willing to spend 5-6k for this replacement for now. I guess I'll skip this one.
 
Yeah I know it's sort of barebones but I was looking to get something for less than 2k. Not willing to spend 5-6k for this replacement for now. I guess I'll skip this one.
Please share your use case
Let me see if I can suggest something.
 
Please share your use case
Let me see if I can suggest something.
Thanks, appreciate any advice.
I have this set of Edifiers, the C2: https://productz.com/en/edifier-c2-plus/p/m2dDz

The amp for this has malfunctioned and no longer gives any output. What kind of amp should I be looking to buy to replace this, and what will it set me back by?

This, basically.

The speakers are not powered, they only have a connection to the amp via RCA on the amp side and fixed wire on the speaker side. Amp has an L+R dual RCA input and an aux input, and 3 RCA outs for L, R, and SW.

These are the specs on the box

1696771418511.png
 
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