Front loading or top loading washing machine?

roygarg said:
Meant to reply to the thread as I was also following it before I bought a new machine.
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I didnt went for front load due to space issues at home. And did some research before going for this model else other suggestive models weren't available on amazon/flipkart or even croma/vsps etc.
Buying from LG was costing a bomb rather nuke..
 
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Problem : washing at 20 degrees creates much more foam than at 90 degrees. Why ?

In the two videos, 26 socks (not pairs) are washed at 20 degrees and again at 90 degrees with 60gm powder detergent + 30 gm vanish

See the foam at the 51" left mark at 20 degrees. Almost overflowing. The wash quality will not be good with that much foam.

Now see how much foam there is when the same load is washed at 90 degrees. At the 51" left mark there is hardly any foam. You never see it build up through the cycle.

This is the surprising part, as the best way to get Vanish to foam up is add hot water.
 
Has nobody been able to figure it out ? It's the wash action

At 90 degrees this Sammy reduces the wash action, takes a few spins and rests

But at 20 degrees it just keeps turning and taking very few stops.

This is why the foam fills the whole drum

With a basic machine without any of this AI business the foam would likely have been more on the hotter temperature
 
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lockhrt999 said:
About bad spiders, I'm developing a theory, here me out. I think the biggest reason the spider's rusting is the usage of normal detergent. I don't think many people know there exist specialized detergents for front load washing machine. People must be using regular hand-wash detergent in front loaders. Hell, we used TL for a decede and we never knew specialized washing machine detergents exist. Most general stores don't keep front loader detergent. They even force customers to buy TL detergent for FL.
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here is a good demonstration of which detergents to avoid. A bit difficult to distinguish the colours in the video, she should have used a digital pH meter instead.

The branded detergents hold pH around 9-10 and the best will maintain that pH as they are diluted because they are pH buffered

The locally made, 'artisanal' kind that cost less go all the way up to pH 12 :oops:

Getting the pH down will take accurate dosing and there is no way to do that with an automatic because you have no idea how much water the machine will choose to use depending on the weight of the load.

pH 12 is too damn high to be washing thinner clothes in. Yeah, it will clean great if all you wash is jeans-like fabric but it will also damage the clothes over time.

Now imagine that stuff coating the back of the spider and accumulating over the years. No spider is going to survive that.
 
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blr_p said:
Hmm. your dimensions are opposite what was mentioned here

Can you confirm again?

If I use your figures the volume is just 47L but if I use @bhp91 figures it works out to 55L for drum volume.
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I measured it exact vertically for the height without measuring from the center which otherwise might make it 55cms.
For diameter, again I measured it straight horizontal from the opening & not base.

Here's how..along the green line!

1667672075925.png
 
nRiTeCh said:
I measured it exact vertically for the height without measuring from the center which otherwise might make it 55cms.
For diameter, again I measured it straight horizontal from the opening & not base.

Here's how..along the green line!

View attachment 150863
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Looking at that picture one would expect the height to be more than the diameter as you posted.

This means your drum volume is 47L max for water at the level 10 mark.

If we add the plastic on top which is unused space then the volume goes up to 56L

Manual says 62L of water which is not true :bored:

47L is small, i thought it would be bigger. How has your family reacted to this? I think the semi-automatic they had earlier would be bigger

That means your max load for this is half the drum.

Can you tell me what number water level is halfway?
 
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blr_p said:
Looking at that picture one would expect the height to be more than the diameter as you posted.

This means your drum volume is 47L max for water at the level 10 mark.

If we add the plastic on top which is unused space then the volume goes up to 55L

47L is small, i thought it would be bigger. How has your family reacted to this? I think the semi-automatic they had earlier would be bigger

That means your max load for this is half the drum.

Can you tell me what number water level is halfway?
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They are good as no manual hassles like semi-auto thing.
Yes have to compromise on the drum size but thats fine as anyways I was gonna pay 20k for 6.5k and got 7kg for 17.5kg so its only a win win thing for me.
I will let you know on the water levels in few days.
 
bhp91 said:
Diameter is about 44cm and depth is around 36cm (only counting the actual steel tub height).
Also, it is exactly the same as my old 7kg LG top load.
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Your diameter is larger than the depth?
nRiTeCh said:
Yes have to compromise on the drum size but thats fine as anyways I was gonna pay 20k for 6.5k and got 7kg for 17.5kg so its only a win win thing for me.
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I'm not happy with this at all. It means recommend only 9kg or more LG top loaders in the future :(

What win? Even if you got an 8kg it would still have the same drum volume.

They purposely leave out this tub dimensions info so they can fool you with a meaningless kg number.

Today, the ONLY kg number that matters with LG top loaders is 9Kg. Either more or less than 9kg.

Of course, next year that 9kg will become 10kg. You see the nonsense here...

8kg LG top loader has less drum volume than equivalent front loader that too with direct drive. Who knew !!!!

Now I wonder if Panasonic & IFB are being honest with their figures. Their stated figures were smaller than the Koreans.

But a 6.7kg Panasonic has a 52L drum at water level 10 and a mere 6.5kg IFB has a 54L drum.

Makes it bigger than an 8kg LG.

Now if @gopal_agrawal can give us some Samsung figures we will see how that one stacks up
 
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blr_p said:
here is a good demonstration of which detergents to avoid. A bit difficult to distinguish the colours in the video, she should have used a digital pH meter instead.
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Our country needs more such open testing. However tests could be more scientific. Eyeballing everything isn't a way to go.


blr_p said:
pH 12 is too damn high to be washing thinner clothes in. Yeah, it will clean great if all you wash is jeans-like fabric but it will also damage the clothes over time.
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True. It's a factor I personally never considered before. All of my clothes last a very long time. I make sure to never wring them or put them out in sunlight. pH is one such factor for longevity.
 
LG has recommended their own scalgo descaling powder for drum cleanup after 30 usages. I know its their marketing gimmick pushing customer to buy their own stuff and said other powders arent recommended bla bla and might damage the drum. The demo guy was offering 3 packets for 650.
Any good cheaper alternative brand for drum cleansing powder?
 
gopal_agrawal said:
Already answered above. Post 373
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Can you clarify which of the two is the diameter?
nRiTeCh said:
Any good cheaper alternative brand for drum cleansing powder?
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How hard is your water? you need a kit to measure. TDS is not a measure of hardness. You could have dissolved salts giving a high TDS but the hardness could still be low and the wash will be fine. Sometimes there is a correlation between the two but it's not to be relied on. Most people I find are just using TD meters and calling that number hardness. Sexier to have a digital gadget than a chemistry set?

Better to measure what you want rather than assume it because the figure is not fixed but varies throughout the year. For instance, I get river water. During the monsoons, it can be as soft as 60 ppm and rise to close to 175 in the dry season. I would be descaling during the dry season and not bothering during the monsoon.

You need to test once a month for a year to get an idea of how that parameter varies. You also mentioned you had no control of your water supply so then this is something to monitor on a regular basis and keep a note of.

That is the only way you will know how often or not to use a descaler. This will also determine how much detergent to use.


Starts at 50 and goes all the way to 1000 ppm, steps will be in multiples of 50. The first time I'm seeing such a large range. Their earlier ones stopped at 500 ppm


Starts at 2 and goes up to 500 ppm, steps will be in multiples of 25

Above 400 ppm your wash quality is going to suffer and you will have to consider either a softener or conditioner
lockhrt999 said:
Our country needs more such open testing. However tests could be more scientific. Eyeballing everything isn't a way to go.
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I thought it was a commendable effort with low-cost tools. She got the point across without burning anyone.

I see videos for detergent making and it's clear these are by middlemen with access to sellers. So they tell people you can start a business for zero down. Make your own laundry detergent, dishwasher detergent & bars, floor cleaner, toilet cleaner etc. The latter are fine but the first depending on what you use it for requires caution. Detergents are made from petrochemicals. Oil price goes up and stays up then the cost of detergent follows.

The pitch goes something like this, why are you spending Rs.200/kg for detergent? branded goods is just a money grab. Would you be interested in 3kgs of locally made for Rs.80-100 :woot:

Detergent is detergent, it washes clothes. What is the big deal? Why not try?

These people don't realise the enzyme chemistry that goes into making these detergents is close to rocket science. Making pre-70s-era detergent is easy. The kind that has no enzymes. It only depends on chemicals.

lockhrt999 said:
True. It's a factor I personally never considered before. All of my clothes last a very long time. I make sure to never wring them or put them out in sunlight. pH is one such factor for longevity.
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Been meaning to get a pH meter for a while now. What puts me off is the maintenance. The pH meter has a probe that needs to be kept moist with some buffer solution. Typically there is a sponge in the cap that contacts the probe that needs to be kept wet. If it dries up the probe dies. Use it often all good. Use it a few times and forget about it then it's done :sorry:

I wonder how aquarists here deal with this.

@Rockfella how do you care for your pH meter? Don't the fish you keep like to live in some goldilocks pH range?
 
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