The Power Supply Unit recommendation thread!

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Disclaimer: I am not an expert on ANYTHING, but I'd like to think I've picked up a thing or two by hanging around these forums.

Lets start with the basics.

What is a Power Supply Unit?
The power supply unit (abbreviated as PSU) or the SMPS, as it is more commonly known in India, is a device that supplies power to all the components that make up a computer system. (To get a definition of power, I direct you to a 5th grade science textbook).

Why should I give a damn about it?
This is a very pertinent question that many computer buyers ask. Up until 2006, choosing a good power supply was not a major issue. The PSUs that came coupled with our cabinets were quite sufficient to power the various devices in our computer. One can say that choosing a good PSU became a major concern only with the advent of high performance PCI-Express based graphics cards. These graphics cards would require a separate power supply connection obtained directly from the PSU to satisfy their power requirement.

Suddenly the least thought about component in a computer system became a point of major concern. What is the efficiency of the power supply? What wattage does my system require? What amperage is required on the 12V rail? You could almost hear the collective gasp of a million first-time computer buyers from a continent away (and this sound continues to echo even today).

Ok fine, so your precious PSU is important. What do I need to see when I choose a good power supply?
Now that's more like it! You should look for the following things when choosing a power supply for your system:
1) Rated power output in Watts (quite obvious, don't ya think?)
2) Total amperage on the various rails (more on this later)
3) Connectors included with it (6-pin PCI-E connector, 2x6-pin, 4x6-pin, 8-pin)
4) If running SLI/Crossfire, whether the unit is SLI/Crossfire certified
5) Modularity (or the lack of it)
6) Efficiency of the PSU

We'll deal with these requirements one by one.

Before we proceed further, it is important to know the difference between PEAK rated output power and CONTINUOUS rated output power.

CONTINUOUS rated output power is the power output that the PSU can supply continuously under normal operation. PEAK output power is, well, the maximum output power that the PSU can provide. Obviously, continuous output power is of more interest to us.

Some PSU manufacturers will mislead consumers by specifying the peak output power on their PSUs, while having a continuous power rating much below the specified value. An example of this would be the Coolermaster Extreme Power 430W. This unit supplies 430W of peak output power, while the continuous output power rating of the PSU is 400W. Differentiating between continuous and peak output power is important while choosing a suitable power supply.

What do these 12V, 5V etc. rails mean?

Now, a PSU will obviously provide a voltage (and current) output, and this voltage output is divided into different levels, or "rails". This division is done because different devices in the computer require different voltages. For eg. the 3.3V level is required for the CPU and the memory, the 12V level is required for the hard drives, graphics cards etc. Each rail will also have a current output rating, or "amperage". This amperage is important to know if the power supply is capable of providing the minimum current required for the various devices.

All that is fine, but what do multiple +12V rails mean?

PSU manufacturers will often times split up the 12V output voltage provided by the power supply into multiple rails. The only reason for doing this is "safety". For eg., consider the following 2 cases:

1) A PSU with 54A on a SINGLE +12V rail
2) A PSU with three +12V rails, with an amperage of 18A on each rail

Which of the above would be safer? Logic would say PSU no. 2.

The goal here is to limit the current through each wire to what that wire can carry without becoming dangerously hot/catching on fire. Most PSUs these days come with multiple +12V rails, so that the required current can be supplied to each device safely. But as we shall see below, this is really not a very important specification.

Does it really matter, whether a PSU has a single +12V rail or multiple rails?
The answer is NO. As long as the PSU is able to provide the required amperage on the +12V rail that the devices using it require and is made by a reputed brand, there is no advantage (or disadvantage) to splitting a +12V rail into multiple ones. This is a false presumption, and one that even the PSU manufacturers are responsible for spreading.

Is it true that some PSU's that claim to be multiple +12V rails don't have the +12V rail split at all?

Yes, this is true. It's typically seen in Seasonic built units (like the Corsair HX and Antec True Power Trio.) It's actually cheaper to make a single +12V rail PSU because you forego all of the components used in splitting up and limiting each rail and this may be one reason some OEM's will not split the rails, but say they are split. Some system builders adhere very closely to ATX12V specification for liability reasons, so a company that wants to get that business but also save money and reduce R&D costs will often "fib" and say the PSU has it's +12V split when it does not.

Why don't those PSU companies get in trouble?
Because Intel actually lifted the split +12V rail requirement from spec, but they didn't actually "announce" it. They just changed the verbiage from "required" to "recommended" leaving system builders a bit confused as to what the specification really is.

What is a PCI-E power connector?
A PCI-E power connector is basically the wire from the PSU that will go directly to your PCI-E graphics card. It is important to know how many PCI-E connectors are required for your graphics card(s) and how many are supported by your PSU. For eg. if you are planning to buy a single Radeon 4850 gfx card, you will require a single 6-pin PCI-E power connector. A Radeon 4870 on the other hand will require TWO 6-pin power connectors. Two 4870s will require four 6-pin power connectors and so on.

My PSU has only 2 PCI-E power connectors, but I need 4 for my SLI setup. Help!
Fear not, in this case you may use the 2 PCI-E connectors for one of the graphics cards in your SLI setup, and use two Molex to PCI-E adapters for the second card. However, this approach has a problem: When you use the Molex to PCI-E adapters, you have now added the load from the graphics card onto the rail that's also supplying power to all of your hard drives, optical drives, fans, CCFL's, water pump.. you name it. Suddenly, during a game, the PC shuts down completely.

To avoid this, always choose a PSU with sufficient PCI-E connectors, for your present (as well as future) needs. Remember, the PSU will be used in your PC for a minimum of 5 years, even if you upgrade your PC once a year.

What are SLI/Crossfire Certified PSUs?

This certification really means nothing if you know what you want in a power supply, but for the newbie, this certification indicates that the power supply (most probably) meets all the requirements of an SLI/Crossfire gaming rig. However, going by this certification is not enough, it is important to see the specs of the PSU for yourself and ALWAYS buy from a reputed brand.

What are Modular PSUs?

A modular power supply is a relatively new approach to cabling, allowing users to omit unused cables. Whereas a conventional design has numerous cables permanently connected to the power supply, a modular power supply provides connectors at the power supply end, allowing unused cables to be detached from the power supply, producing less clutter, a neater appearance and less interference with airflow. It also makes it possible to supply a wider variety of cables, providing different lengths or Serial ATA instead of Molex connectors.

Modular PSUs are quite popular right now for the above advantages. Obviously modular PSUs cost more than equivalent conventional PSUs, so it is up to the consumer to decide if the benefits of modularity justify the extra cost.

What is efficiency?
What you should know is that the PSU basically converts the AC power (supplied by your state's electricity board) into DC power that is required by the computer's components.

Obviously, this conversion is not 100% efficient, with some amount of power being dissipated in the form of heat. Efficiency of a PSU can be formally defined as the percentage ratio of the DC ouput power supplied by the PSU to the AC input power taken by it. Obviously, a higher efficiency PSU will require LESS AC input power to give a specified DC output power, than a lower efficiency PSU.
Eg. Consider a 500W PSU rated at 80% efficiency and another 500W PSU rated at 70% efficiency. The first PSU will require 500/0.8 = 625W of AC input power, while the second one will require 500/0.7 = 715W of AC input power (considering both PSUs to be working at full load). Almost a 100W difference between the two. And where does this wasted power go? It gets dissipated in the form of heat. So lower efficiency PSUs dissipate more amount of heat than equivalent rating higher efficiency PSUs. Heat dissipation can only lead to shortened life span of your power supply, so it is important to choose a high efficiency PSU, not only to save electricity bills, but to ensure long life for your PSU.

I love your guide, and I would like to have your babies. By the way, I live in Mexico. It's kind of hot here. Is that a problem?
YES it is. I'm not flying halfway across the world just so you can have my babies.
Back to the topic at hand, another thing to note is the room temperature for which the PSU was rated. As most people know, efficiency of such devices decrease with increase in temperature. Some PSU's like the Seasonic ones are religiously rated at 50 deg while most others are rated at 25deg. So the capabilities of a 500W PSU from two different manufacturers may actually be different. This also means that a manufacturer who sourced a 500W PSU tested at 50 deg from an OEM may put a label of 650W or so at 25deg.

Apart from these basic requirements, it is always good to buy from a reputed manufacturer. Corsair, Antec, OCZ, Silverstone, Tagan are some good power supply manufacturers. VIP (the really el-cheapo ones), Mercury (all of them), Coolermaster (the Extreme Power Series) are NOT (although Coolermaster is way better than the other two). A good brand for the budget-conscious buyer would be FSP. ALWAYS choose a good brand for your supply. I cannot stress this enough. It is probably the single most important component you will buy for your computer, don't cut corners here.

All right, so this post has been very long, but I hope it is useful to people who are confused about what power supply they need, and about the various specifications.

Comments/suggestions/CORRECTIONS are welcome.

References:
My brain
Jonnyguru.com forums (the multiple rails part)

Valuable input provided by: (list will be updated as more people provide corrections)
sTALKER
Lord Nemesis
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

Apart from these basic requirements, it is always good to buy from a reputed manufacturer. Corsair, Antec, OCZ, Silverstone, Tagan are some good power supply manufacturers. VIP, Mercury, Coolermaster are NOT (although Coolermaster is better than the other two). ALWAYS choose a good brand for your supply. I cannot stress this enough. It is probably the single most important component you will buy for your computer, don't cut corners here.

Categorizing Coolermaster along with VIP and Mercury is blasphemy i would say.

Coolermaster is a very very reputable manufacturer that has products which have been tailored to suit every possible budget that a buyer could throw at it.

The Extreme series might not win awards for performance, but quiet a few models in this series are very VFM products perfect for the buyer on a budget.

Have you even heard of the Real Power and Silent Power series? please do read up a bit before passing such blanket statements. The Real Power and Silent Power series of CM psu's are right up there among the best in terms of everything.

Again, VIP has a few models which are very well suited to a budget buyer. Mercury = complete crap and listing VIP nd Coolermaster in the same category as them is again stupidity.

A brand for the budget buyer that you could have mentioned would be FSP which is now available in India through primeabgb.com

Also, i'm not too sure about the validity of your statement on the reason for splitting up rails. i could be wrong, but i really dont think that the reason for splitting them up was because the wires cant take the amperage(you just need to use a higher rated wire :duh:)

Overall, it is a very nice effort on your part here i guess :)

a few modifications, and this could be converted into a very nice PSU suggestion thread :)
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

All right will incorporate changes in a little while :)

I do know about the Silentpower and Truepower series of coolermaster. But the majority of users here keep asking about the Extremepower series, so I wrote that line without really thinking twice. I will remedy that mistake.
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

techster said:
All right will incorporate changes in a little while :)

I do know about the Silentpower and Truepower series of coolermaster. But the majority of users here keep asking about the Extremepower series, so I wrote that line without really thinking twice. I will remedy that mistake.

True Power = Antec :bleh:

Real Power = Coolermaster :eek:hyeah:
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

Good effort there :). Will be really useful for the beginners. Make those changes that sTALKEr mentioned in his post.
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

sTALKEr said:
True Power = Antec :bleh:
Real Power = Coolermaster :eek:hyeah:

Sh!t what is wrong with me :rofl:

Would you believe me if I said I knew that as well? :bleh:

I've been typing for close to an hour.. Need a break lol.
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

sTALKEr said:
:lol: nope i wouldnt believe you :p
@saiyan.. sticky!

Did you just call saiyan sticky? I think he would take offense to that! :rofl:
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

sTALKEr said:
Also, i'm not too sure about the validity of your statement on the reason for splitting up rails. i could be wrong, but i really dont think that the reason for splitting them up was because the wires cant take the amperage(you just need to use a higher rated wire :duh:)

not sure...but i think i read somewhere that the split rails help in better voltage regulation :)
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

sTALKEr said:
wires cant take the amperage(you just need to use a higher rated wire :duh:)
Lol. its not like all 54A will flow thru one single wire :p the mobo connector has 3-4 12V wires? plus 2 or 4 wires on the 4 or 8pin connector. plus 3 more per PCIe connector and one on each molex connector. so minimum its 12 wires per PSU and 54/12 = 4.5A? its not a biggie for any wire to carry that much current at 12V.
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

Nice Effort :)

techster said:

How to know if your PSU manufacturer is cheating you:

Sometimes PSU manufacturers will specify an output power rating that is below the one that the PSU can provide. To find out if they are cheating, follow this simply method:
1) Multiply the voltage level of each rail with the corresponding amperage of that rail
2) Add all the products found in step 1.

For eg.
Consider a simple 300W power supply with the following specs:
(Read as Output Voltage Level---Amperage---Output Power)
+12V---12A---12*12 = 144W
+5V---30A---5*30 = 150W
-5V---0.3A---5*0.3 = 1.5W
-12V---1A---12*1 = 12W
Total---307.5W

The calculated output power is fairly close to the rated one, meaning the manufacturer is not lying to you in this case.


It does not work that way. Usually, the specs on most PSU's indicate the max current/wattage each rail can handle. This does not mean that all those rails can handle the rated current/wattage at the same time.

For example a manufacturer may specify that a PSU has two 12V rails each rated for 15A. This means that each of those rails can handle 15A max, but this does not mean that you can connect 2 x 15 x 12 = 360W across these rails. The combined load can be far lower say only 300W. The same applies for the other rails too. If you are putting some load on one rail, it may decrease the capabilities of the other rails. So, if you just add up the max ratings of all the rails, you will end up with figure far greater than what the PSU is capable of.

The overall wattage rating on the PSU is supposed to convey the max load the PSU can handle, its only relationship with the individual rail ratings is that they should all be inside the specified max values for the PSU to work properly.

As for the issue of incorrect max wattage's specified by the manufacturers, its similar to the issue of PMPO vs RMS wattage of speakers. Many low to mid end speaker manufacturers rate their speakers using the peak power they output for minuscule amounts of time. This allows them hype up their speakers by putting ridiculously high ratings like 5000W or 10,000W on the speakers. The typical continuous power such speakers output is a lot less. For example a music system I saw was rated for 2000W PMPO, but the RMS rating was just 150W.

In a similar manner PSU manufacturers show a larger power rating by stating the peak power spikes the PSU can handle for small periods of time. That means a PSU rated for 400W in this manner will be able to handle that kind of load only for a few microseconds occasionally, it cannot handle that load continuously without blowing up. Most of the sub 1k PSU's are rated this way. While the actual safe rating of these PSU's should be 250~270W, they put labels like 400 or 450W. Even if you are putting a load of 300W thinking its still 100W away from the max, you are still overloading the PSU. Apart from the better choice of components, this is why a 400W form a decent brand works out a lot better than a similarly rated PSU form an el cheapo brand.

Another thing to note is the room temperature for the PSU was rated. As most people know, efficiency of such devices decrease with increase in temperature. Some PSU's like the seasonic ones are religiously rated at 50 deg while most others are rated at 25deg. So the capabilities of a 500W PSU from two different manufacturers may actually be different. This also means that a manufacturer who sourced 500W PSU tested at 50 deg from a OEM may put a label of 650W or so at 25deg.
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

Lord Nemesis said:
It does not work that way. Usually, the specs on most PSU's indicate the max current/wattage each rail can handle. This does not mean that all those rails can handle the rated current/wattage at the same time.
For example a manufacturer may specify that a PSU has two 12V rails each rated for 15A. This means that each of those rails can handle 15A max, but this does not mean that you can connect 2 x 15 x 12 = 360W across these rails. The combined load can be far lower say only 300W. The same applies for the other rails too. If you are putting some load on one rail, it may decrease the capabilities of the other rails. So, if you just add up the max ratings of all the rails, you will end up with figure far greater than what the PSU is capable of.
Agree. Proper way of getting 12V ampereage IMO, is take PSU rating minus ( combined max 3.3 and 5V combined + 5VSB + -12V + etc ) / 12.
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

Really nice guide! Keep it up!
But, I would just like to tell you that Coolermaster is one of the best brands that is there including their ExtremePower Series. I am using 2 of their products: CM690 casing and ExtremePower 500W and the power supply has served me for 2 years now without any problem. I have attached multiple extra fans and the PSU is taking all the load very easily :)
and ofcourse you must be knowing about the CM690 :cool2:
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

SunnyBoi said:
Lol. its not like all 54A will flow thru one single wire :p the mobo connector has 3-4 12V wires? plus 2 or 4 wires on the 4 or 8pin connector. plus 3 more per PCIe connector and one on each molex connector. so minimum its 12 wires per PSU and 54/12 = 4.5A? its not a biggie for any wire to carry that much current at 12V.

You can have as many power supply connectors as you want on any rail.. The rails are split to limit the amount of current each rail can provide. This is done because some international safety organisations don't allow you to output more than 20A on a single +12V rail, for safety reasons. Consider the following example:

1) A PSU with a single +12V rail

2)A PSU with two +12V rails

Each 12V rail will have it's own over-current protection (OCP) circuit.

Now suppose both PSUs are specced to deliver 36A total on their respective +12V rails. This means 36 amps on a single rail for the 1st PSU and 18A each on the two 12V rails for the 2nd PSU.

In this case, if the multiple rail PSU is pulling more than 18A on a 12V rail, the OCP kicks in and the PSU shuts down. This is not the case with the PSU having a single +12V rail, as the current limit for the rail here is 36 amps. This facility can afford protection for your components in a multiple rail system, but is also disadvantageous if your system components are drawing current within their specified limits, and are simply power-hungry.

One more reason claimed by some manufacturers in favor of multiple rails is to improve load regulation and noise, but this has been proved as BS.

@LordNemesis

You are correct. I have edited the original post. Thanks for pointing out the mistake.
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

techster said:
You can have as many power supply connectors as you want on any rail.. The rails are split to limit the amount of current each rail can provide. This is done because some international safety organisations don't allow you to output more than 20A on a single +12V rail, for safety reasons. Consider the following example:

1) A PSU with a single +12V rail

2)A PSU with two +12V rails

Each 12V rail will have it's own over-current protection (OCP) circuit.
Now suppose both PSUs are specced to deliver 36A total on their respective +12V rails. This means 36 amps on a single rail for the 1st PSU and 18A each on the two 12V rails for the 2nd PSU.
In this case, if the multiple rail PSU is pulling more than 18A on a 12V rail, the OCP kicks in and the PSU shuts down. This is not the case with the PSU having a single +12V rail, as the current limit for the rail here is 36 amps. This facility can afford protection for your components in a multiple rail system, but is also disadvantageous if your system components are drawing current within their specified limits, and are simply power-hungry.
One more reason claimed by some manufacturers in favor of multiple rails is to improve load regulation and noise, but this has been proved as BS.
I'm not debating the current on each rail, but current flowing thru each wire. Hope you got my point :)
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

SunnyBoi said:
I'm not debating the current on each rail, but current flowing thru each wire. Hope you got my point :)

No I don't get your point? Short circuit will cause more than rated current to flow through a wire, which might conceivably damage it.
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

Very informative guide techster. You posted it at the right moment for me. After nearly 8 months of being frustrated and fed up of extremely loud motor like sound from my CPU and power problems with external HDs, i started looking at possible reasons for the same and zeroed in that PSU must most probably be the problem. I have a VIP case with VIP PSU, and as you posted in this review, the PSU is bad.

Repped you for the efforts.
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

very nice effort friend :clap:

all the suggestion are there for making you better, never mind:hap2:

keep it up:tongue:
 
Re: How to choose a good Power Supply Unit

Concise article. Gr8 work. Just sort out the niggles in the first post and ur done!
 
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