Car & Bike Enlivening an old dream..Yamaha RX135 !
- Thread starter Shakensoul
- Start date
Shakensoul
Skilled
@main_trouble...I already bought a RX135 for 8 grand from Karol Bagh 
@sunny......don't bikes use engine oil :huh:
@sunny......don't bikes use engine oil :huh:
Mohit
Skilled
SunnyBoi said:hope u heard me telling "stock muffler"
My mechanic was also always telling me to replace my catcon silencer with the old one. Now looking at you, I might just do it
Stock RX100 silencers are available I guess.
And would love to know the sound secret
@SnS
Ya these bikes do require engine oil and 2T oil both. I don't know why Sunny is confused :S
Shakensoul
Skilled
What do you guys suggest, should I get the paint job on the chassis/tank done first and then start the servicing or vice-versa ?
Avoid chassis painting. Check for the rust in your tank. Most prolly i feel that tanks rusted badly.
Better buy a new tank + side panels for 3.5K rather than spend 2K on paintjob. You can sell your old set for ~1K. That extra 500 or 1000 is really worth it
Better buy a new tank + side panels for 3.5K rather than spend 2K on paintjob. You can sell your old set for ~1K. That extra 500 or 1000 is really worth it
BIKeINSTEIN
Skilled
greenhorn said:dude , a stock RX will beat a stock P 180 in a drag even today
modded P 180's and higher speeds are another thing though
Nikhil said:
SunnyBoi said:@Greeny : Nope, RX100 will be owned by many 150ccs nowadays
Stock RX100 stands no chance against P150 or the likes, even at the lights- with similarly able riders.greenhorn said:i just meant the initial acceleration, i mean at traffic lights etc. On open roads , the newer bikes rule
RX100 fares far worse in higher gears.
Archish- '97 make means definitely RXG.
BIKeINSTEIN
Skilled
How many kms has the bike run- though i really will assume much more than it shows for reasons known to all.
Replace Air Filter - No need unless torn or flaking- just clean, oil lightly and refit
Clutch plate - Yes- subject to inspection
Carburetor - Just cleaning
Spark Plug - Yes- Definitely- Get a Genuine NGK BP8HS- thrice the price of Mico- expensive but the Mico W5BC plain sucks imho.
Gear Oil - Yes- Castrol GTX extra- 20W50- buy from reputed Castrol auth dealer- take bill- Castrol has fakes- esp Delhi
Engine Oil - the one that goes in the oil tank behind the side panel- anything works for daily use- most are Jaso FC now- recommended- Elf, HP, Shell, BP- Castrol had become horrendously overpriced iirc- But Castrol JettX was the thing to use at one point of time, miles ahead inperf- later even the product for the masses, SuperTT became very pricey.
Clean and decarbonize silencer - Not necessary- but do inspect for too much oil residue.
Else bike will smoke a lot and one may think oil pump is set high and reduce that and might end up seizing the bike.
Helps avoid wrong decisions.
Clean Piston Head - Strict NO- Please no
Lubricate chain set, adjust slack - Yes, also inspect chain and sprockets for too much wear- replace with oem ones if need be
Brake pad - Yes- get oem stuff
Wheel balancing and alignment - Yes- again subject to inspection- do it even if slightest doubt-- will help in deciding what is wrong if bike doent handle well- wheels will be out of the question as balanced and will point towards problem lying elsewhere.
Oil Seals - engine ones or front fork ones?? any case- No need unless oil from fork/engine is leaking, even if one fork leaks, change oil seals for both
Battery - decide after some days of use- get it checked, topped up and charged if weak- if still weak, get charging ckt chked- else replace with new battery of proper type
Horn - No Need, just adjust for proper sound with engine at a fast idle- it still not good enough, replace
Shock Absorber Oil - Not necessary unless the forks feel soft/hard/leaking- even if one fork leaks, change oil seals for both and same amount of oil in both as per manual
Preferably replace throttle and clutch cables unless really smooth and friction free.
Else get Suprajit Friction free cables and never never oil them.
They go hard if you oil them unlike cheap cables that need oiling and still don't work as smooth.
Get the power box cleaned with some fresh petrol- fill, shake, rinse, empty, dry, refit.
Check the steering for jerkiness/knocks.
Might need to replace ball bearings or cone set.
Check the sprockets for wear and tear.
Regrease wheel bearings- replace if worn out.
Check electricals and replace any faulty bulbs with good ones of proper rating.
Check tyres+tubes- torn, cracked tyres and tube with many repairs is better replaced with new ones.
If tank is not badly rusted inside, get it cleaned and then get it epoxy coated from inside by some good paint shop.
That's all i could remember for now. :ashamed:
Replace Air Filter - No need unless torn or flaking- just clean, oil lightly and refit
Clutch plate - Yes- subject to inspection
Carburetor - Just cleaning
Spark Plug - Yes- Definitely- Get a Genuine NGK BP8HS- thrice the price of Mico- expensive but the Mico W5BC plain sucks imho.
Gear Oil - Yes- Castrol GTX extra- 20W50- buy from reputed Castrol auth dealer- take bill- Castrol has fakes- esp Delhi
Engine Oil - the one that goes in the oil tank behind the side panel- anything works for daily use- most are Jaso FC now- recommended- Elf, HP, Shell, BP- Castrol had become horrendously overpriced iirc- But Castrol JettX was the thing to use at one point of time, miles ahead inperf- later even the product for the masses, SuperTT became very pricey.
Clean and decarbonize silencer - Not necessary- but do inspect for too much oil residue.
Else bike will smoke a lot and one may think oil pump is set high and reduce that and might end up seizing the bike.
Helps avoid wrong decisions.
Clean Piston Head - Strict NO- Please no
Lubricate chain set, adjust slack - Yes, also inspect chain and sprockets for too much wear- replace with oem ones if need be
Brake pad - Yes- get oem stuff
Wheel balancing and alignment - Yes- again subject to inspection- do it even if slightest doubt-- will help in deciding what is wrong if bike doent handle well- wheels will be out of the question as balanced and will point towards problem lying elsewhere.
Oil Seals - engine ones or front fork ones?? any case- No need unless oil from fork/engine is leaking, even if one fork leaks, change oil seals for both
Battery - decide after some days of use- get it checked, topped up and charged if weak- if still weak, get charging ckt chked- else replace with new battery of proper type
Horn - No Need, just adjust for proper sound with engine at a fast idle- it still not good enough, replace
Shock Absorber Oil - Not necessary unless the forks feel soft/hard/leaking- even if one fork leaks, change oil seals for both and same amount of oil in both as per manual
Preferably replace throttle and clutch cables unless really smooth and friction free.
Else get Suprajit Friction free cables and never never oil them.
They go hard if you oil them unlike cheap cables that need oiling and still don't work as smooth.
Get the power box cleaned with some fresh petrol- fill, shake, rinse, empty, dry, refit.
Check the steering for jerkiness/knocks.
Might need to replace ball bearings or cone set.
Check the sprockets for wear and tear.
Regrease wheel bearings- replace if worn out.
Check electricals and replace any faulty bulbs with good ones of proper rating.
Check tyres+tubes- torn, cracked tyres and tube with many repairs is better replaced with new ones.
If tank is not badly rusted inside, get it cleaned and then get it epoxy coated from inside by some good paint shop.
That's all i could remember for now. :ashamed:
Shakensoul
Skilled
Excellent points bikey, very much appreciated. :hap2:
The bike must have clocked atleast 50k kms, I assume.
Spark Plug...NGK BP8HS - Is this part number specific to the yamaha model and is it readily available ? Also how much does a regular Mico and the NGK cost, so that I am not taken for a ride.
Check this lovely pic
Team-BHP - View Single Post - Living with my dream my RX 135
The bike must have clocked atleast 50k kms, I assume.
Spark Plug...NGK BP8HS - Is this part number specific to the yamaha model and is it readily available ? Also how much does a regular Mico and the NGK cost, so that I am not taken for a ride.
Check this lovely pic
Team-BHP - View Single Post - Living with my dream my RX 135
cool_cat
Adept
vishalrao said:i never understood why the rx100 was so popular - maybe coz of high reliability and cheap maintainance a la maruti 800 or something? back in college (around 1996-8) the suzuki shogun (110cc 14 bhp of free revving goodness with tacho) was the hotness for me
well,I too during pre-degree(PDC) and Engineering(97-2001) enjoyed RX-100!oh man!such a bike!I owned my RX-100 for 6 years till it met with an accident!!!
although shogun is full of complaints IIRC.
If the original thread started dont care for fuel efficiency,why not try Rajdoot Yamaha RD-350? 27BHP(or 36BHP),twin engine 2-stroke got a film for its advertisement on its launch -"hero" back in 1982 with jackie and meenakshi sheshadri:tongue::tongue:
RD350 -
RAJDOOT YAMAHA RD350 Review
Shakensoul
Skilled
sunny did i miss something, where is the speedometer
And how much did the disc brake cost ?
BTW, very well maintained
@praka123 - nah, a yamaha rx135 will do fine now, a RD350 maybe after another 5 years, if the bike doesn't become extinct :rofl:
And how much did the disc brake cost ?
BTW, very well maintained
@praka123 - nah, a yamaha rx135 will do fine now, a RD350 maybe after another 5 years, if the bike doesn't become extinct :rofl:
Mohit
Skilled
Nice bike there Sunny. Looking good. But I did not like the red paint on the front mud guard. Looks a little out of place. You have modded so it so much man. Headlight, indicators, back side, etc. Those disc brakes look cool. The last RXZ also came with discs I think. Won't those fit on a RX100 or RX135?